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injected 5lt


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#26 _Herne_

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 08:52 AM

Hi Keith UC

Your information re swirl pot and or secondary pump is probably very correct.
This is why I stated it will give my setup a hard test on the track. As stated my friend who doesn't do track work has found he has no problems :) To be honest I expect I will be fitting a secondary pump a bit later on but I am what I believe is reliably told I may not need the swirl pot. if one is needed I am sure we can locate a remote one perhaps in the boot. Just more plumbing :)

I fully understand you looking at a 304 block for obvious reasons.

I was a bit lucky with mine, it had not long been rebuilt etc etc and a forum member posted an ebay pointer to where it was for general viewing, he had no idea I was in the market for such an item. Simple fact is I bought the engine within an hour or two and paid the buy it now price of $1250.00.

Good luck with the LX/V8/Celica setup, I am sure a V8 will not dissapoint :)

If you go further with the EFI idea and you need some basic advice (remembering I am not a mechanic) I am always at the end of a PM.

gtrboyy

At this stage I do not know what programme this guy has but I will find out. Apparantly there is much you can do to these basic computers, I knew they could be played with but had no idea as to how much.

Cheers
Herne

#27 _keith1962_

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 07:56 PM

I think the real reason for a swirl pot is that is if you
intend to do burnout competitions it stops you from
loosing fuel to the engine. I think the late model cars
don't get this problem due to the fuel tanks have
baffles inside them

cheers Keith

P.S. i could be wrong

#28 Dr Terry

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 09:47 PM

Hi Guys.

Keithy's UC said "Herne, obviously the 253 block means you dont have to run cats or any of the efi related power robbing crap! How did you go fitting everything up to the 253?"

As I have said before, WHAT EFI RELATED POWER ROBBING CRAP !! 5 litre EFI motors have no anti-pollution gear attached, unless you're counting the PCV, which all Holden engines have had since 1967.

Apart from fitting the cats to the exhaust (& maybe a fuel filler restrictor) what 'crap' are we talking about. The only other anti-pollution ADR requirement that I can think of is a fuel vapour canister, which virtually all LX-UC Toranas already have anyway. But none of these items mentioned have any adverse effect on power output, drivability or economy (or complexity either).

Other than getting the engine number officially changed for the RTA, what benefit is there in transferring all the EFI gear to a 25-35 year old 253 block compared to keeping a 1990 something 304 block.

Dr Terry.

#29 _Herne_

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Posted 14 August 2006 - 10:12 PM

Hi Doc

I think there is much misconception about the VN EFI engine and pollution gear or should I say the lack thereof. An engineer can insist on fitting cats before he signs off on the mod. I am hoping mine doesn't as I have it from the boss of the Rego people here (canberra) that I do not need them.

As stated previously the only thing I gained by buying my 253 engine fitted with EFI is the VR SS heads which I wanted. Should this setup prove very inadequate for my needs I will then swap the heads and manifold etc over to a 304 block. The engine came as a running unit and not at an overly bad price considering what I got, that is really the only reason I have stuck with 25 plus yr old block :) Once I have everything fitted and running it will not be such a hard job to swap blocks as the hard yards will have been done ie the setup that it takes to run and fit an EFI engine in a Torry.
It will be interesting when we get to play 'god' with the computer to see what we can realy get out of this unit. All in all a good learning curve at the very least - I hope.

Cheers
Herne

#30 gtrboyy

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 03:49 PM

Don't forget to write down a list of things you want to do to give list to the tuner.
such as:
raise rev limiter,though you probably need better springs
turn thermo fans on
if using vn-p ecu,put vs memcal in for lean-cruise & also change memcal for knock sensor as most std 165 memcals can't be used
turn off vss/immobiliser etc. if it's vr-s ecu

I forgot to write down that I wanted my ecu to turn the fans on/off & raise rev limiter so I have to take my ecu back.I wish I had of wired up the bcm now but didn't want all the extra wiring & transponder stuff cluttering up the car,seems silly now.

What ecu you running & what are you using a speedo box?

Edited by gtrboyy, 15 August 2006 - 03:52 PM.


#31 _Herne_

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 04:47 PM

Good advice gtrboyy.

hadn't thought about valve springs but should have.
I am told the engine revs will be factory set somewhere around 5300/5400 approx. I want them bumped up to 6500 so I will ask the right questions.
My thermos are on a strictly manual switch. Use only as required.
Not sure what brand the speedo box is - VSS (vehicle speed sensor) but I bought it s/h from the guy that sold me the engine. he stated he paid $300 for it new and it wasn't very old when I got it. Probably has a brand name on it somewhere.
Its a VN manual computer even though I am running a Trimatic, the VN harness has been fully modded to suit the Torry running Tri auto.
Can you tell me more about the knock sensor? I have no idea what this does.
Additionally the guy is going to alter my computer to take some of the sluggishness away when taking off. I have no idea what or how as this computer stuff is all new to me. Prior to purchasing the engine I was warned of a slightly slower take off up to 60kph before it starts to fly. This is due to the VRSS (VN) heads on a smaller block. Cam is standard new 5.0 ltr.

Cheers
Herne

#32 _LX_SS_

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 05:07 PM

what the knock sensors job is exactly that, if it detects a knock it massively retarts ignition timing, for obvious reasons

#33 _Herne_

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 05:11 PM

ahh OK thanks for that, makes sense too :)

Herne

#34 gtrboyy

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 05:53 PM

I would ask him to put in a vs memcal with the k/sensor function if he knows how to do it.K/sensor memcal has a foam bit on it easily seen when you take the cover off ecu panel.Then you get the k/sensor wire from holden & a knock sensor which you screw in where the water drain bolt is in front of starter motor as other side has dipstick in in the way.

I suppose he will have to lean it out a fair bit as they are a bit rich on a std 5l.

Do you know what compression you have as std 5l is around 8.5:1-8.8:1 from memory.
How does it run on the std chip?

Edited by gtrboyy, 15 August 2006 - 06:03 PM.


#35 _Herne_

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 06:08 PM

haven't fired it up as yet. Tried to on the weekend and it seems we had a positive wire on the starter motor on the wrong + terminal as it wouldn't crank starter motor has choice of two + terminals) my terminology mat be exact but I am sure you guys know what I mean.. Now it cranks ok but has yet to fire. A quick check today suggests a possible air lock in the fuel lines or perhaps I have a fuel pump connection wrong? Anyway Struggler is popping in tomorrow to see if he can quickly sort it. I have tested for spark and spark appears to be ok.

I will talk further to the guy about the computer alterations after it is running. I have taken aboard what I am being told here.

Cheers
Herne

#36 _Keithy's_UC_

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Posted 15 August 2006 - 10:42 PM

Sounds good mate! Ill be watching your progress as it comes along...

Cheers
Keith




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