653 replies to this topic

[2redrovers]

If the lock fits, I'd live with it being right everywhere else.... But I understand the dilemma completely

[308 Sunbird]

I would centre the lock and modify the sides to fit. That lock possi willstand out like dogs....

[claysummers]

Alternative 3 - 1mm cutting disc, parallel cuts either side of hole in the desired direction and cut-shut hole position. A bit of polyester resin and 6oz cloth, you’re done.


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[2redrovers]

Alternative 3 - 1mm cutting disc, parallel cuts either side of hole in the desired direction and cut-shut hole position. A bit of polyester resin and 6oz cloth, you’re done.


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I like this option. Least stuffing around and the repair wouldn't be as structural as changing the overall length.

[Mitchyboy]

Alternative 3 - 1mm cutting disc, parallel cuts either side of hole in the desired direction and cut-shut hole position. A bit of polyester resin and 6oz cloth, you’re done.


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Thanks Clay I agree agree mate it has to move.
It will do my head in forever.
3 steps forward 1 step back.
Bloody hell.
I re fitted the old Bobtail for comparison and the lock was dead center on it. But when i measured the old one the lock hole isn't center on the spoiler.
The lock hole measures dead center on the new spoiler.
They must be out from the factory.

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[Mitchyboy]

Had a play after work with Dad.
Scraped away all of the deadener on the roof after soaking it with degreaser(we wore masks in case it is u know what)
Came off easy.
Started paint stripping the roof and had another go at the underside of the bonnet.
Test fitted the new scoop and discovered i need to weld up every single one of the old holes from the previous scoop.
Got heaps of holes to weld up in the boot lid as well from the old Bob tail.
It never ends

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 03 April 2020 - 10:20 PM.

[claysummers]

Thanks Clay I agree agree mate it has to move.
It will do my head in forever.
3 steps forward 1 step back.
Bloody hell.
I re fitted the old Bobtail for comparison and the lock was dead center on it. But when i measured the old one the lock hole isn't center on the spoiler.
The lock hole measures dead center on the new spoiler.
They must be out from the factory.

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Moving the lock position in the boot panel, another option?


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[Mitchyboy]

Moving the lock position in the boot panel, another option?


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I think that will be more work then im worried it will affect the mechamism for lock and unlock
I think ill cut a square out of the fibre glass with the hole in it and center it over the lock and glass into position.
It has a shampfer all around it so does the metal boot lid around the lock

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Edited by Mitchyboy, 04 April 2020 - 09:29 AM.

[ReplicarSLR]

For mig Rob?

Yep for mig Laurie, I got one of these magnet copper tools, used it to mig up all the errant non factory holes that had been ‘added over the years’ in the LX you bought of me, handy device.  93478DA0-D811-4672-8D16-AB05009AB589.jpeg   93.55K   11 downloads

[claysummers]

Handy tool. I want one.


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[Rockoz]

Ive got bits of half inch copper pipe that I have flattened out, as well as some slightly thicker copper busbar flat.

I use g clamps to hold them in place most of the time. Got lots of 50mm clamps and usually buy more whenever I see them. Got some crappy ones and some good ones.

Ive also got some really good strong magnets that came out of warfare anti ship mines.

They have been used in a multitude of different jobs since I acquired them. Best magnets I have found so far.
Might have to make up a little gadget like that though.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[claysummers]

Substation earth strap is good too but for firewalls, floors etc, where you can’t get a clamp on it, would be ideal.


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[Mitchyboy]

Got a fair bit done this weekend.
Paint stripped roof inside and out, and the underside of the bonnet.
Moved the lock hole over on the spoiler, still needs a little bit of bodywork but its centred now.
Ended up cutting and moving it over where it needed to be as everything else was spot on, little kit i got from super cheap worked well.
I Also welded up all the holes on the boot lid and bonnet, and also patched/welded the bonnet clip holes which I dont want.
Ready to fit off the new scoop hopefully one arvo after work.
Gotta research a bit about the hole in my bonnet and possibly do some reinforcing around it as it is a bit flimsy and has old dodgy welds on it.
Any advice welcome.
Looking forward to the long weeked coming up

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[Mitchyboy]

Passenger side flare job complete. What a mission
Scoop fitted
Bobtail fitted
Winning

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[sibhs]

Hi Mitch,

Great job on this build, its going to be something you'll be very proud of.

I won't be surprised if when the time comes you'll paint it yourself. Very rewarding and it'll be better than the pro's job. Start with the underneath of boot and door internals and you'll either be hooked on what you can do or pissed-off at a shit result.  

I would be using KBS rust blast (4 litres for about $50) to protect your bare metal not fisholene. I would also have used it on your rusty panels instead of wire wheeling them. Don't wash it off and it'll last ages but you will have to do it again before you etch and wash it off and it leaves a zinc coating which the epotec etch loves to stick too. I recommend once all repairs are done on rotisserie you do the whole car with the rust blast spinning the body to get it into all those panel joins etc. Then etch it.

I also wouldn't KBS seal anything I can see as a final coat. It doesn't look as good as 2k and you don't want it in threads etc. So not underneath the car.  Use it over all your welds and repairs and in doors etc. Try and use fish oil and cavity wax after car is painted, these products are not good for painting over.

For my internal steel floor, roof etc I'll strip to metal, Rust Blast, Rust Seal, Epotec etch before KBS fully cures then apply a red oxide colour. Looks killer!

This is all my advice from what I learnt from the LJ Build and I'm no professional.

Stick with it, you're young and have plenty of time.

 

Marty

[76lxhatch]

You've got those fibreglass parts fitting very nicely, well done

[claysummers]

Good work Mitch. Like Marty says, I would get some protection on the bare metal. Haven’t used the KBS Rust Blast myself but I probably should have if it meant I could get Epotec over everything. I’m in the middle of my first time bare metal respray. It isn’t that hard if you get the right advice, just very time consuming. But then so is the work you are doing now.


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[Mitchyboy]

Hi Mitch,
Great job on this build, its going to be something you'll be very proud of.
I won't be surprised if when the time comes you'll paint it yourself. Very rewarding and it'll be better than the pro's job. Start with the underneath of boot and door internals and you'll either be hooked on what you can do or pissed-off at a shit result.
I would be using KBS rust blast (4 litres for about $50) to protect your bare metal not fisholene. I would also have used it on your rusty panels instead of wire wheeling them. Don't wash it off and it'll last ages but you will have to do it again before you etch and wash it off and it leaves a zinc coating which the epotec etch loves to stick too. I recommend once all repairs are done on rotisserie you do the whole car with the rust blast spinning the body to get it into all those panel joins etc. Then etch it.
I also wouldn't KBS seal anything I can see as a final coat. It doesn't look as good as 2k and you don't want it in threads etc. So not underneath the car. Use it over all your welds and repairs and in doors etc. Try and use fish oil and cavity wax after car is painted, these products are not good for painting over.
For my internal steel floor, roof etc I'll strip to metal, Rust Blast, Rust Seal, Epotec etch before KBS fully cures then apply a red oxide colour. Looks killer!
This is all my advice from what I learnt from the LJ Build and I'm no professional.
Stick with it, you're young and have plenty of time.

Marty

Thanks Marty.
I am enjoyong all of the metal work thats for sure.
I plan to do all of the primer stages including high fill etc. Unsure if I will tackle the colour at this stage though as I want it done in a booth as Im planning to use 2k paints not acrylics.
The reason i decided to simply use fish oil to protect whilst i am still working on it is that it is cheap and it washes off easily before the next repair job.
I also didnt realize u could leave the rust blast on without washing it off as you say, every thing i read about it says you need to wash it off.
I have brought 4litres of the rust blast and i do plan to prep the entire car with it before all paint stages as u have suggested.
Why would you not paint the underside of the car with the kbs rust seal?
I was planning to spray the inside and bottom with it and i have already brought the paint.
I do plan to paint my repairs as well since you told me that also but now i am wprried about painting the repairs on the seen panels if it looks shit.
I am now thinking of painting the raptor bed liner underneath the car over the KBS rust seal.


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You've got those fibreglass parts fitting very nicely, well done

Thanks bud.


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[Mitchyboy]

Good work Mitch. Like Marty says, I would get some protection on the bare metal. Haven’t used the KBS Rust Blast myself but I probably should have if it meant I could get Epotec over everything. I’m in the middle of my first time bare metal respray. It isn’t that hard if you get the right advice, just very time consuming. But then so is the work you are doing now.


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Thanks Clay
Does the fish oil not protect the metal?
Ever since i have sprayed that over all of my panels that i have paint stripped i have not had any surface rust at all.
What u see on the panels the brown is actually the colour the fish oil dries when i cake it on there plus it wipes off very easilybthe next time i play with it.

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[claysummers]

There is more than one way to do anything I suppose. Fisholene is messy sticky shit. Great for penetrating rust in inaccessible areas. But paint does not like it, unless maybe enamel is being used. I would be a bit concerned about getting all the fisholene off before the Epotec, and that some might remain, soaked in to seams, and come out after paint. I may be being paranoid. It is the same reason I don’t like acid dipping, or even paint stripper.

One way or another you will get a result you are happy with it as long as you maintain your current motivation.


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[Heath]

I think you guys are making a big deal out of some small things. If you are comfortable with the fish oil, it will work fine but you have to clean it very carefully.

You aren't doing anything wrong.

There are multiple solutions that will work.

 

You are doing a fantastic job on this car.

 

Keep in mind the Epotec epoxy being referred to above is a very popular product but it has some real issues with adhesion on some areas where rust converter etc. has been applied. I don't mean to scare the shit out of you, but I am using that product, and have heard a few restoration places talking about paint coming off in certain areas where it wasn't just plain sanding & stripping... "that product isn't what it used to be, and cost me thousands in the last 6 months" etc. - I hate to say it but I have detected the same problem on my car in a few nooks and crannies. Hopefully none will rear their head a few years down the track.

[Indy Orange]

I used this inside my sills ,doors etc.I think it works well.

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•  image.jpeg   27.6K   10 downloads

[grumpy xu1]

Thanks Clay
Does the fish oil not protect the metal?
Ever since i have sprayed that over all of my panels that i have paint stripped i have not had any surface rust at all.
What u see on the panels the brown is actually the colour the fish oil dries when i cake it on there plus it wipes off very easilybthe next time i play with it.
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Just clean all that crap of, seaweed disc & sand it & apply the epoxy over the bare steel straight away & do your repairs over it, re seal them with epoxy. Do a panel at a time so it's manageable ect. That's how it should be done.

[Mitchyboy]

I think you guys are making a big deal out of some small things. If you are comfortable with the fish oil, it will work fine but you have to clean it very carefully.
You aren't doing anything wrong.
There are multiple solutions that will work.

You are doing a fantastic job on this car.

Keep in mind the Epotec epoxy being referred to above is a very popular product but it has some real issues with adhesion on some areas where rust converter etc. has been applied. I don't mean to scare the shit out of you, but I am using that product, and have heard a few restoration places talking about paint coming off in certain areas where it wasn't just plain sanding & stripping... "that product isn't what it used to be, and cost me thousands in the last 6 months" etc. - I hate to say it but I have detected the same problem on my car in a few nooks and crannies. Hopefully none will rear their head a few years down the track.

Thanks Heath.
I plan to do the KBS degreaser stage followed by the KBS rust blast stage before I paint anything.
Glad to hear that the epotech stuff likes to adhere to it after the rust blast stage is completed.
I would like to think that after I perform both of them stages that any remnants of the fish oil will be history and wont affect my primers.
I attached a photo of the primers i purchased.
Is that the same stuff you used?
Not good to hear that the paint isnt adhering in certain places on your car, could i ask where? How did you prep before primer? Do you think sanding up these problem areas prior to the KBS stages will help with adhesion?


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I used this inside my sills ,doors etc.I think it works well.

Ive used this stuff on my boat trailer for years its great stuff. I ended up using the fergussons knock out rust in my sills
Cheers

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[Mitchyboy]

Just clean all that crap of, seaweed disc & sand it & apply the epoxy over the bare steel straight away & do your repairs over it, re seal them with epoxy. Do a panel at a time so it's manageable ect. That's how it should be done.

Cheers Grumpy.
Its gonna be a mission that is for sure.
I do plan to paint he panels first as you say.
Looking forward to playing with something else other than the welder and grinder to be fair haha

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