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HZ brakes on my LH, crap pedal still


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#1 _timbotorrie_

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:16 PM

well i am still trying to figure my brakes out on my torrie :furious:

it has HQ discs HZ alloy calipers front and HQ drums on the back, new master cylinder, rebuilt proportioning valve, have been bled countless times, adjusted right in the drum shoes, tried couple of different pad compunds, tried smaller bore rear wheel cylinders, but the thing just doesnt give any confidence in stopping, it can be scary!

could it be a booster problem? my engine doesnt produce much vacuum,
should i try a different booster as it is the standard type booster?

anyone pleeeeze!!! :spoton:

#2 _SSHatch_

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:25 PM

Confidence in what way??
I know that you have already given a fair bit of info but didnt provide any that will aid in diagnosis.

Define "Scary"
Long Pedal?
Soft Pedal?
Locks Rear?
Locks Front?
Hard Pedal with no "Feel"?
Brakes appear to grab suddanly?
Pedal slowly dissappears under use?
Pedal needs to be pumped up on each use?


There are many variables out there. Can you be more specific??

#3 _Herne_

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Posted 21 August 2006 - 10:58 PM

Agree with SSHatch ^^^^

After what you have stated and have not :) I would look at the booster.

Cheers
Herne

#4 dattoman

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 12:05 AM

Pics of front brakes
And yes describe the actual problem

#5 _timbotorrie_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 08:14 AM

the pedal has no feel after one good application, and gets long, they wont lock up

the booster hasnt been touched in the 8 years i have had the car


will get a pic later :spoton:

Edited by timbotorrie, 22 August 2006 - 08:18 AM.


#6 _Herne_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 10:18 AM

mmmmm - guessing here but have you checked the large hose from the booster for cracks and air leaks? A mechanic I am not! :)

Herne

#7 TerrA LX

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 06:35 PM

not quite a mechanic myself but if you getting pedal travel it dont sound like the booster, infact the brakes will work if the booster is functioning or not, the pedal will just be hard.
when you first start driving and the pedal feels good then it quickly deteriorates, getting long and soft, the drums are adjusted right up on the rear and boiling the fluid. bleed and reajust the rear drums.
may also be a defective master cylinder.
definatly dont drive it till you sort it.

#8 _timbotorrie_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 07:13 PM

i AM a mechanic and its really pi%*ing me off that i cant fix it!! :D
i have been driving it but you wouldnt go racing through any twisty bit of road in it,i just keep a safe distance just in case, i suppose i just want it to feel like my old standard LH which was really good in the brake department(for standard setup)


everything is adjusted right on the rear

just thought it might be something i have missed when doing the conversion, i havent checked pressures at each corner yet though and i may go back to the larger bore wheel cylinders on the back too

from what i have read the standard master should be fine for the disc drum combo as the HQ-HZ used the same master but with different sized holes for the brake lines to screw in

might just try a different booster, buggered if i know!! :D :D

#9 _shane__31_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 08:29 PM

my car has a similular problem the peddel is real touchy in the wet the rear lock up quite easialy but i have losened off the drums and it a bit better but still gotta be care full i try not to use the brakes just the gears

#10 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 08:43 PM

not being smart but are the bleed screws at the top of the calipers, ive seen the calipers put on the wrong side with these conversions and the bleed screws end up on the bottom not allowing proper bleeding, just clutching at straws here. or master cyl might have an internal leak.

#11 _timbotorrie_

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Posted 22 August 2006 - 09:58 PM

yep calipers are on the right way up, with nipple at the top of the bore

its a new master cylinder so it better not have an internal leak!

#12 _MAWLER_

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:06 AM

With the wheel cylinders, what difference does the size make? Plus with the pressure test, what number is the pressure supposed to be around?

Sorry, I don't have anything to add but this is good info. I've now got a few things to check on my car before I get someone to look over it.

Shane, just noticed you're in Montrose, I'm in Lilydale. Don't think I've ever seen your car out and about (pic in avatar), do you drive it much?

Cheers,

#13 _LX8VD69_

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 12:09 PM

im sure youve thought of this but as i have a similar problem, i have little vacum assist due to too large a cam shaft, that i intend to fix with a vacum reservoir one day but your cams not a real big one by any chance. im just guessing but you have seemed to have done every thing else

#14 _timbotorrie_

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 07:19 PM

yeah the cam is a custom hydraulic with huge duration and lift, it wouldnt have enough vacuum

being the smaller booster doesnt help wither, i should get a double diaphragm one i suppose, or as you said add a vacuum tank

#15 dattoman

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 10:43 PM

The lack of vaccuum assistance will make the pedal harder to push down
Larger booster will make it worse as more vaccuum is required

Theres another problem

#16 Litre8

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Posted 23 August 2006 - 11:05 PM

It doesnt happen after you turn a corner? The calipers aren't hitting anywhere on the suspension causing major pad knock back?




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