UC Fromt end
Started by
_AquaSLR5000_
, Aug 25 2006 12:13 AM
14 replies to this topic
#1
_AquaSLR5000_
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 25 August 2006 - 12:13 AM
I have a UC Torana front end fitted with HQ - HZ brakes. It looks like the upper control arms have been made longer with a cut and shut. Whats the go and how legal is the cut and shut with regards to roadworthy cert in Vic.
#2
FastEHHolden
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Posted 25 August 2006 - 05:15 PM
ouch..dodge city....it shouldn't pass.
#3
TerrA LX
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Posted 25 August 2006 - 05:21 PM
6 yeah sounds scary, can you post a pic?
#4
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 26 August 2006 - 01:59 PM
I can send a pic to someone who can post it. The car drove excellent and I assume it had the cut and shut to over come too much neg camber.
#5
Toranavista
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Posted 26 August 2006 - 03:14 PM
email sent
#6
Toranavista
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Posted 29 August 2006 - 10:38 PM
#7
Toranamat69
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Posted 30 August 2006 - 05:53 PM
I like their thinking 
I don't thing the Rego people will share the same view though.
Out of interrest, how long is the top control arm now? (perpendicular distance from centre of ball joint to the centre of the pivot when looking from above) The standard ones are 8" exactly.
Also what is the distance across the crossmember? (centre to centre on the mounting studs.)
It looks like they may have extended these upper control arms to get rid of the 2 degrees of extra camber which comes with the HQ stub axles.
M@
P.S. I just noticed your calipers are on the rear of the stub axle. How do they clear on full lock? they hit on the 'bumpstop bulge' when I tried that combo myself.
I don't thing the Rego people will share the same view though.Out of interrest, how long is the top control arm now? (perpendicular distance from centre of ball joint to the centre of the pivot when looking from above) The standard ones are 8" exactly.
Also what is the distance across the crossmember? (centre to centre on the mounting studs.)
It looks like they may have extended these upper control arms to get rid of the 2 degrees of extra camber which comes with the HQ stub axles.
M@
P.S. I just noticed your calipers are on the rear of the stub axle. How do they clear on full lock? they hit on the 'bumpstop bulge' when I tried that combo myself.
Edited by Toranamat69, 30 August 2006 - 05:56 PM.
#8
makka
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Posted 30 August 2006 - 06:44 PM
hey Matt, have you looked into whether HQ upper arms will go onto a Torana front end?
#9
Toranamat69
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Posted 30 August 2006 - 07:47 PM
G'day Makka,
I did check them out and the ball joint angle on the HQ ones is far too different to the torana ones.
M@
I did check them out and the ball joint angle on the HQ ones is far too different to the torana ones.
M@
#10
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 30 August 2006 - 08:52 PM
Thanks for hosting the pics Toranavista!!
I will do some measurements for you Toranamat69 tomorrow and let you know...
With regards to the brake calipers, wait till you see the next pics. There has been a cut and shut in the top corner of the subframe to allow the calipers to clear so that the steering can go lock to lock. I will be sending Toranavista some more pics thursday or friday night.
I will do some measurements for you Toranamat69 tomorrow and let you know...
With regards to the brake calipers, wait till you see the next pics. There has been a cut and shut in the top corner of the subframe to allow the calipers to clear so that the steering can go lock to lock. I will be sending Toranavista some more pics thursday or friday night.
#11
Toranavista
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Posted 05 September 2006 - 07:22 PM
Hosted pics of standard and Modified front end.
#12
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 05 September 2006 - 08:32 PM
Thanks again Toranavista.
The first pic is the standard front end and the second shows the corner of the frame been cut away and a plate welded in. This allows the calipers to be fitted to the correct rear mounting postion. What do people think..
The first pic is the standard front end and the second shows the corner of the frame been cut away and a plate welded in. This allows the calipers to be fitted to the correct rear mounting postion. What do people think..
#13
TerrA LX
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Posted 05 September 2006 - 08:53 PM
imo i wouldnt run a cut 'n' shut arm with no good reason and it would have to be good welding. having said that you would not have even known if they were painted up.
as for the "trimmed" chassis, well it doesn't appear to have weakened it but they could have tidied it up a little and same again you probable would not have even noticed.
whats wrong with mounting the caliper on the front, doesn't it work as well.
as for the "trimmed" chassis, well it doesn't appear to have weakened it but they could have tidied it up a little and same again you probable would not have even noticed.
whats wrong with mounting the caliper on the front, doesn't it work as well.
#14
_AquaSLR5000_
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Posted 05 September 2006 - 11:05 PM
I am with you ALX76, a bit of cleanining up and some paint, it would be very hard to notice. Going by the car it came from I believe the mods were done way back in the way back days, so I think the welding is fine. As for caliper position I have no idea as to why someone would go to tha lengths done on this front end to get the calipers in the original positions, when swapping left and right stubs and having the calipers to the front would surely be ok. Maybe it was done way before it was common knowledge to swap front stubs. Where are the brake calipers on an A9X?
#15
Toranamat69
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Posted 06 September 2006 - 06:11 PM
I'd be checking if the bump stop is still effective when it bottoms out - it is hard to see how much of the bump on the subframe is gone.
Not sure why they put the calipers on the back as I'm pretty sure those would go on the front nicely except you have to trim the upper control arm to clear at full lock and at full suspension bump - maybe they didn't want to do that.
It may actually pay to check the calipers still clear on the back of the upper control arms in the same conditions as it doesn't look like they would.
Those welds on the Upper control arms should at least be cleaned of rust and painted to stop them rusting away.
M@
Not sure why they put the calipers on the back as I'm pretty sure those would go on the front nicely except you have to trim the upper control arm to clear at full lock and at full suspension bump - maybe they didn't want to do that.
It may actually pay to check the calipers still clear on the back of the upper control arms in the same conditions as it doesn't look like they would.
Those welds on the Upper control arms should at least be cleaned of rust and painted to stop them rusting away.
M@
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