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Cost of 2pac...


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#1 _Flamenco_

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Posted 13 December 2005 - 04:03 PM

Hello all, thinking after I drop the V6 in the hatch over Christmas I might get the car resprayed in 2pac since that's the hatch's main letdown!

I've never sprayed 2pac before but I know a few people that can do it for me. What's the cost of a few litres of 2pac in relation to Acrylic? It's not going to be a show-winning paintjob, more of a tidyup to make it look more respectable.
Cheers.

#2 Peter UC

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Posted 13 December 2005 - 04:50 PM

Just don't spray at home EVER. Always use a booth with 2pac as the paint is Cyanide based and is highly toxic.

#3 _Pete_

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Posted 13 December 2005 - 05:05 PM

To paint with either paint type properly the cost will work out roughly the same as you use more materials with acrylic laquer.

There's been a lot of development of more affordable 2pack paints in the last few years and quite often a cheaper brand of 2 pack will work out better than an average acrylic amount.

Walk into your local automotive paint supplier and see what they sell and get some prices, normally you need 2/3s to half as much 2 pack as you would lacquer, less thinners and you have to buy hardener for your 2pack.

the little extra in cost of 2 pack gives a much better result in the right hands.

i'd guess you may spend maybe $100 more in materials using 2 pack than Acrylic.

#4 surfmaster

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Posted 13 December 2005 - 07:12 PM

don't paint that 2pac stuff at home mate, its no good for you or the family - gotta be done in a booth.

#5 _Flamenco_

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Posted 13 December 2005 - 07:27 PM

I'm aware of the toxic factor/using booth when using 2pac! Thanks for the warning though! That's what I was after Pete, thankyou. I won't be the one spraying the hatch - too many failed attempts on other cars, I think I am more suited to fabrication & interiors! :)

#6 MRLXSS

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Posted 14 December 2005 - 08:54 AM

Wat about ISO Free 2k clear? I am thinking of spraying my HQ with a Acrylic Colour then the ISO Free 2pak Clear.. Is that stuff ok to spray at home in a well ventilated area?

#7 _postal_dood_

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Posted 17 December 2005 - 10:01 PM

hello all,,, i currently have an LJ 4 door rana that is in dire need of a spray job... i didnt pay a lot for the car as can be seen by the rust, but when i cut it all out and get it all ready for a respray what would your sugestions be for an "at home" job? for a relativly cheap price?
im 17 so money is not exactly EASY to come by,.,, lol. i have a mate/family friend that can do the job but im unsure what sort of paint to go for, for the best result, and best price,.

thnx
michael.

#8 _JBird_

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 11:29 AM

2Pak paint is illegal to apply without a ventilated booth + it would never cure without an "oven" unless you wanna do it slowly and laboriously with those heating lamps. BTW I'm not too sure about cyanide being in 2pak, but it is similar to abestos - years later after spraying your car you'll suddenly have breathing problems and cancer.

Flamenco, get your torrie painted 2pak professionally. Save money doing rust repairs yourself. Also go for colours that are non-custom and easy to apply. Generally light colours. White cheapest, Black expensive, Pearl>Custom super expensive.

253toranaSS, you can't do acrylic colour then 2pak clear (regardless of iso free) the 2pak clear wont "bite" or cure properly to the acrylic. I've never seen this combination but I'm sure it won't look good. Just stick with acrylic clear coats and pack it on. Cut and polish like normal and it will look just as glossy.

#9 _JBird_

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 11:44 AM

Poostal_dood, when doing an at home job, factor in masking tape, masking paper, make sure there is an area that is enclosed, usually a car port with plastic sheeting all around. (you don't want dust and leaves getting on your paint while it dries). two factors to consider when you get a respray is - what will it be used for and will it be durable. If you live in the city areas of your state, no point going 2pak unless you want to pay more, spend less time polishing and entering shows.

Acrylic would be the go, it is cheap, "easy" to apply, mistakes are fixable, doesn't kill people (still has fumes and you will breathe white snot out unless you wear a mask). Acrylic can be cut and polished to a show quality finish. Any paint job is only as good as the preparation, so spend hours getting the body dead straight in primer phase. Use masking tape on everything.

Acrylic costs per litre around 50 bucks, 4Litres clear, 4Litres colour and a couple of litres of thinners (i think 8, not sure). So if labour is free, it'll cost you around $600 (conservative figure) and a lot of time.

#10 _JBird_

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 11:52 AM

P.S
Acrylic is softer than 2pak and therefore less durable in country conditions. Stone chips etc. will ruin your job in 2 weeks of daily driving. No paint job will be able to withstand that punishment regardless if it is 2pak or acrylic, but 2pak is harder and will withstand it better.

Regards,
James

Edited by JBird, 18 December 2005 - 11:54 AM.


#11 _postal_dood_

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Posted 18 December 2005 - 05:22 PM

well looks like acrilic is the way to go,,, My father and i will be doing all the prep work and maybe the undercoat, we started cuting out the rust today so hopefully if all goes well she'll be on the road in a few months, no REAL rush..

thanx JBird 4 all the advice.,

#12 MRLXSS

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 07:06 AM

253toranaSS, you can't do acrylic colour then 2pak clear (regardless of iso free) the 2pak clear wont "bite" or cure properly to the acrylic. I've never seen this combination but I'm sure it won't look good. Just stick with acrylic clear coats and pack it on. Cut and polish like normal and it will look just as glossy.

Thanks for that mate!




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