Hey all,
Tried to start the torri up tonight.... and like the thread topic says, no power was present. Figured the battery was dead, so i charged it, reconnected it and still the same result. No spark when terminals connected (which are quite new), no interior light.... absolutely nothing.
I last started the car on Sunday, with no problems. Haven't touched it since.
Any ideas on what this could be? Where could i start? And what could've caused it?
Thanks guys
No power
Started by
_BoltZ_
, Aug 30 2006 01:02 AM
20 replies to this topic
#2
surfmaster
-
- Moderators
-
- 2,019 posts
Marineboy
- Location:Nowra N.S.W.
- Joined: 08-November 05
Posted 30 August 2006 - 01:04 AM
Check that you actually have power in the battery, check all of your major connections, (no, not your SP), earth and starter leads etc.
#3
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 30 August 2006 - 01:08 AM
do you have a fusable link fitted, check you have power at the fuse box.
#4
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 August 2006 - 08:29 PM
Do have a test lamp or multimeter?
#5
_BoltZ_
_BoltZ_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 August 2006 - 08:56 PM
^ Nah i don't. Will get one tomorrow night and see if i can probe a bit deeper...
#6
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 30 August 2006 - 10:25 PM
Fusible link, top of steering column. Undo the three bolts, drop the column and it sits on top of it there.
#7
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 07:18 AM
Are you sure this is correct for all Toranas Yella, dont know what Boltz has. Ive never seen one in my UC's here and the circuit diagrams on both the UC and LX show the fusible link in the wire going from the starter to the underbonnet wiring connector. Perhaps this is LH only?
#8
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:17 AM
I believe it is all models. Don't know why, but I can never find it on the wiring diagrams either. Dude in the club had one go on his LJ, so I believe they are in all models. I've never had issues with one, so maybe somebody can clarify.
I have a torrie in bits atm, so can go on a search, but never seen one so not sure what I'm looking for. Need somebody with Autoelectrician experience (Dangerous???).
I have a torrie in bits atm, so can go on a search, but never seen one so not sure what I'm looking for. Need somebody with Autoelectrician experience (Dangerous???).
Edited by Yella SLuR, 31 August 2006 - 09:18 AM.
#9
TerrA LX
-
- Members
-
- 14,241 posts
Fulcrum Fixture
- Location:Sid 'n' knee
- Joined: 31-May 06
Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:29 AM
fusable link looks just like normal wire and will be in series with the main feed and about 2 to 3 inch long with male and female connectors inline.
sometimes if the main feed is yellow the link is white or red and if the feed is red the link is white. most always a different color.
sometimes if the main feed is yellow the link is white or red and if the feed is red the link is white. most always a different color.
Edited by ALX76, 31 August 2006 - 09:30 AM.
#10
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:33 AM
.............perhaps it is only the LC?J? that has it located inside the car?, the LJ shows a fusible link between starter and ammeter, which could be located there, why is it there?.....one would think it would have been more logical to install the link before it goes through the firewall?
Edited by devilsadvocate, 31 August 2006 - 09:34 AM.
#11
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 09:54 AM
Anyway getting back to Boltzs prob.
Boltz, with your test lamp or multimeter, start at the battery and find the point at which you lose voltage.
1. Measure volts across batt, OK?, then proceed
2. Measure volts between starter terminal/batt lead and earth
3. Trace red wire that goes from starter to harness connector, push probe in terminal here, again measure voltage between that and earth. Do this on both sides of the connector. If your prob is here, fusible link gone or if only on one side of the connector......bad connection.
4. If so far so good, keep going onto the inside, next stop is the ignition switch.....good luck.
Boltz, with your test lamp or multimeter, start at the battery and find the point at which you lose voltage.
1. Measure volts across batt, OK?, then proceed
2. Measure volts between starter terminal/batt lead and earth
3. Trace red wire that goes from starter to harness connector, push probe in terminal here, again measure voltage between that and earth. Do this on both sides of the connector. If your prob is here, fusible link gone or if only on one side of the connector......bad connection.
4. If so far so good, keep going onto the inside, next stop is the ignition switch.....good luck.
#12
_BoltZ_
_BoltZ_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 10:01 AM
Gotcha 
Thanks guys, i'll let you know what happens
Thanks guys, i'll let you know what happens
#13
Dr Terry
-
- Moderators
-
- 3,276 posts
Technical + Numbers Guru + Moderator
- Location:Eastwood (Sydney) NSW
- Joined: 13-November 05
Posted 31 August 2006 - 12:14 PM
Hi Guys.
I'm with Devil's on this one, I've never seen any Holden with a fusible link mounted on top of the steering column. AFAIK they're part of the wiring harness where the 12v supply comes off the starter motor terminal.
The checklist that he has listed is a good logical one, except I always prefer to use a test-light. Multi-meters, especially digital ones, can lead you astray.
Dr Terry.
I'm with Devil's on this one, I've never seen any Holden with a fusible link mounted on top of the steering column. AFAIK they're part of the wiring harness where the 12v supply comes off the starter motor terminal.
The checklist that he has listed is a good logical one, except I always prefer to use a test-light. Multi-meters, especially digital ones, can lead you astray.
Dr Terry.
#14
_Yella SLuR_
_Yella SLuR_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 04:46 PM
Agree, only way to find it is to trace it back from the battery. Also agree, test light is best bet. Simple yet effective. Good luck with finding the gremlin.
Actually, as a separate post, does somebody want to throw up how to test the battery? I always rely on the dudes at the Battery Factory to test it all. Looks pretty simple, but never catch exactly what they do as they have me in the car doing the high beam thing. May be useful for all us out here in forum land. If the battery ain't holding charge, all the battery charging in the world aint going to help.
Actually, as a separate post, does somebody want to throw up how to test the battery? I always rely on the dudes at the Battery Factory to test it all. Looks pretty simple, but never catch exactly what they do as they have me in the car doing the high beam thing. May be useful for all us out here in forum land. If the battery ain't holding charge, all the battery charging in the world aint going to help.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 31 August 2006 - 04:50 PM.
#15
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 31 August 2006 - 05:23 PM
Without a battery load tester..... Ive suggested this method a few times to those with batt probs and find it a reliable indicator on the vehicles I maintain.
1. Make sure the battery is as charged as it can be, by putting it on a charger for a few hours or ensuring that it has been getting 14V from the alternator.
2. Put voltmeter across terminals
3. Disconnect spark lead from coil
4. Crank starter for 10 sec......observe
If the battery goes below 10V, it is going to prove problematic in starting the car......sooner or later.
If it stays above 10.5V......its in good shape for your demands.
1. Make sure the battery is as charged as it can be, by putting it on a charger for a few hours or ensuring that it has been getting 14V from the alternator.
2. Put voltmeter across terminals
3. Disconnect spark lead from coil
4. Crank starter for 10 sec......observe
If the battery goes below 10V, it is going to prove problematic in starting the car......sooner or later.
If it stays above 10.5V......its in good shape for your demands.
#16
_BoltZ_
_BoltZ_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 September 2006 - 08:25 PM
Cheers guys... bought a test light last night after again confirming again no power. Tried it just now... battery had power, terminal was working fine... popped the bonnet to check there when suddenly the interior light came on and power was restored.
Don't know WTF happened, but seems to be working again now
I'll keep all this for future reference in case the ghost strikes again. Damn electrics!
Cheers
Don't know WTF happened, but seems to be working again now
I'll keep all this for future reference in case the ghost strikes again. Damn electrics!
Cheers
#17
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 01 September 2006 - 09:44 PM
Doesnt sound like anything too serious then, however, it may strike you down again......... Id be at least taking the battery terminals off and cleaning(using a proper terminal scraper or file) so that all contact surfaces are shiny, its sometimes possible to get a non conductive layer here., refasten and smear some vaseline lightly over the terminals(I think it helps stop corrosion)
#18
Tiny
-
- Administrators
-
- 10,018 posts
Oh My, Don't you post alot
- Name:Tiny
- Location:Sydney
- Joined: 04-February 07
Posted 01 September 2006 - 11:19 PM
Hmmm.. opened the bonet and she worked... maybe you've gotto have the bonnet open to star teh car? LOL
No seriously.. make sure that the bonnet isnt touching anything anywhere that could cause a short! Something may be stuck somewehre in the moving hinge area!
No seriously.. make sure that the bonnet isnt touching anything anywhere that could cause a short! Something may be stuck somewehre in the moving hinge area!
#19
rodomo
-
- Members
-
- 17,999 posts
To advertise here, call 13TORANA
- Name:R - O - B Dammit!
- Location:Way out west of Melbourne Awstraylya
- Joined: 10-December 05
Posted 02 September 2006 - 08:43 AM
I would check the engine loom plug. It is to the right of the brake booster looking under the bonnet. It is a 8? pin, white, plastic connector and joins the engine loom to the main loom. Look for any distortion in the plastic and signs of burning. Give it a wiggle and see if your power goes off again.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#20
_devilsadvocate_
_devilsadvocate_
-
- Guests
Posted 02 September 2006 - 03:22 PM
Yes, as Rodomo has suggested ^. Ive had a corroded terminal here,(on the thick red wire) that killed everything on one of the uc's.........didnt fix itself though.
#21
_switchedon_
_switchedon_
-
- Guests
Posted 10 September 2006 - 05:59 PM
the fusible link is located at the starter motor, it should be black and have a crimped joint into the 6mm red cable(providing its still factory) all early holdens had it this way. not on top of the column, i presume the wire on top of the column that they are talking about is actually the ballast feed which is a resistor wire to the coil.
cheers james.
cheers james.
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users
