19 replies to this topic

[Heath]

What info do we have on options for new lock barrels?
 
It seems that 'Resto Country Spares' and several eBay sellers are re-selling the 'Nice Products' barrels, which (at least the ignition barrels of) are pretty shithouse. I just destroyed one getting it out of my column after it jammed, and the general fit & finish is very poor.
 
The original brand for the Torana barrels is 'Strattec' (USA) and they look like they still manufacture a lot of barrels that are similar (or perhaps identical) for all sorts of GM, AMC, Chrysler etc. vehicles of similar eras, but I'm not sure if anyone has a cross-referenced set of part numbers using genuine Strattec parts.
 
The LH parts manual says that the ignition barrel is in Group 2.188, but I cannot cross-reference that to a legible part number in the copy that I've got... (92000358?) (9934521?), but maybe Strattec 607893 according to some old data I found online. Needs to be verified.

The LH bootlid lock assembly is group 12.248, which is 2815103, and that does not show on the Strattec website as a valid part number.

 

Haven't looked for door locks etc.

 
This ad here from casha_1234 on eBay seems to be the most comprehensive and highly priced set of lock barrels for a Torana. 
https://www.ebay.com...xIAAOSw9fFfwewZ
 
I messaged that seller and they said that they certainly use a different supplier to Resto Country Spares, but I got the impression they were not U.S. made or anything, that they are possibly a higher quality reproduction part.
 
Any comments on this topic?
 
Assuming that we're coming from a position where we want to have somewhat matching key sets, and we don't have a serviceable original ignition barrel to re-key.

[Statler]

Assuming that we're coming from a position where we want to have somewhat matching key sets, and we don't have a serviceable original ignition barrel to re-key.

 

I know this last line isn't going to be helpful. 

Factory locks can be be serviced by any good locksmith for comparable cost than the cost of repo ones. 

 

The UC uses 1 key for all. That's what i decided apon. 

I also have the UC black glovebox bezel & the 1 pin ignition bezel as opposed to the chrome LH items. 

Nobody notices or understands & i like that.

[dattoman]

The Rares ones have no discernable marking on them...I have one here

 

Looks a lot like the 76 Cadillac one I bought but can't find

https://www.caddydad...in-the-usa.html

 

 

 lock.jpg   69.79K   4 downloads

 lock1.jpg   69.44K   4 downloads

 lock2.jpg   84K   4 downloads

 

[71xu1]

I have rekeyed/refurbished more genuine automotive locks than I care to remember there quite simple. Your better of as suggested in post number 2 than non genuine.

[Cook]

Hi Heath. Not much help but I thought you may have gone with a push button option. I replaced my door locks with rares ones and had to get one of them re-worked as the 2 weren't keyed alike.  Cheers Ron

Attached Files

•  Push Button Ignition.png   257.13K   2 downloads

[Heath]

Hey Ron, I'm actually not really into the vibe of retro-tech, certainly not with this car build. I must be getting old but the idea of central locking and start-stop electronics excites me very little, haha. I did keyless on my first Torana, it worked fine but didn't really have the right 'feel'.
 

I know this last line isn't going to be helpful. 
Factory locks can be be serviced by any good locksmith for comparable cost than the cost of repo ones. 
 
The UC uses 1 key for all. That's what i decided apon. 
I also have the UC black glovebox bezel & the 1 pin ignition bezel as opposed to the chrome LH items.

That's totally smart and a good functional result. In fact I may even have what is needed to achieve that. But I'm just not willing to lose the chrome details on the dash.
 

I have rekeyed/refurbished more genuine automotive locks than I care to remember there quite simple. Your better of as suggested in post number 2 than non genuine.

Well, that may be right. But I don't have a good original twin-wing chrome barrel sitting around, the clock is ticking, and the die cast bits do also wear out... if you can buy a brand new Strattec 607893 (assuming it's actually the right part no.), I assume that's even better.

[UCgazman]

Have you tried emailing Strattec?

[UCgazman]

Looks the same? - https://aftermarket....l=140&year=1975

[dattoman]

Looks the same? - https://aftermarket....l=140&year=1975

 

 

Same as Caddy

[UCgazman]

Same as Caddy

& 35 pages of other cars according to that website - typical item from the GM parts bin!

[arrimar]

I bought a boot lock online, it didn't need the key to operate it. Anything would work. Hopeless.

[bat 53]

a few years back bought an ignition lock  for my fx from strattec out of the US 

worked spoton , 

[Retyred]

For my LX, I first bought a new lock set from Rare Spares. As mentioned above, the barrel fit is pretty loose and feels generally poor quality. I also managed to get it jammed when trying fitment and it fell apart when I was trying to extract it. (maybe I was too heavy handed?)

However, the biggest problem I found was that the detent on the end of the lock housing was different to the OEM part such that the key could be rotated from Engine On all the way to Anti Theft (strg wheel locked) position, in a single rotary motion, without having to detent the key in towards the centre of the column. This condition is totally unacceptable.

I then bought a new lock and barrel assembly from Holdspares. These were advertised as parts made for GM as genuine spares for North American vehicles. It arrived with GM markings and Part Number and had a much higher quality feel to it.  However, it also had the unacceptable detent condition.

So I got the guys at Bond Security at Blackburn to fit the new internals to my old barreI and it all works fine now.

Saga at the time but got there in the end.

Clearly if you can buy the correct part from Strattec, then that would be the way to go.

If not, make sure that you do not end up with a lock that does not comply with ADR25.

Lots of words, hope it helps.

[Glacier73]

Had a Rares Ignition Barrel left over from my sons HQ build (HQ and LJ the same) my LJ’s barrel seized earlier in the year so thought I’d fit the Rares unit, it looked ok but was a sloppy engagement in the housing and didn’t rotate to the accessory position, wasn’t happy with it, ended pulling my original down and repairing it, refitted and works fine.
As had been said a number of times “keep your original and repair/re-kit as much as possible”

[71xu1]

What Glacier73 said.

[Smog]

Try Oldworks in Bayswater, 0422011556.

Carries a lot of old Holden parts + NOS.

Tim.

[Heath]

Okay, so Oldworks don't have any.

 

I'm not touching Rares.

 

I bought the ones from that eBay seller, and they feel nice in the hand, but the ignition barrel arrived without a detent mechanism... I can't even figure out what car would use this barrel and not have a detent for off and accessories? 

 2021-09-16 22.04.25.jpg   181.97K   6 downloads

See there's no cam on the back at all? Fuck knows what the good of that is.

 

I have bought a Strattec 607893 from the U.S.A. - let's see what happens next.

 

What a pain in the arse.

[Heath]

Strattec 607893 arrived. Looks great, feels good in the hand, fits in the column alright etc. but as Retyred pointed out, the detent-to-off (and therefore steering lock) does not function correctly, like an original. So you can just rotate it off without pressing against the spring.

In this way, it is certainly no worse than all the other aftermarket ones.

But the broach is wrong, it has an 'E' broach and a Torana has an 'A' broach. Can't match it to the other keys. Bloody spewing.

[Bigfella237]

Just for future reader's sake, did you ask Strattec if they can provide the same barrel with the correct broach... or didn't U.S. cars use the 'A' type?

 

And oh yeah... What the hell is a "broach" anyway?

[Heath]

I don't have an answer to that yet... I only just realised the issue yesterday and haven't had a reply from them overnight. I might call them tonight.

Broach... Like how you put an internal keyway into a gear or a harmonic balancer. You broach it.

http://www.ohiobroac...g-examples.html

So the key's profile, along the long axis of the key... Has its little slots in different areas.