8 replies to this topic

[TOERUNNER]

Has anyone dismantled a gtr fuel gauge? i need to get mine open to replace the resistor and i really don't want to frock it.

[S pack]

Had heaps of GTR 2" gauges open over the years. I always used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently and slowly pries the rolled lip of the bezel up for about 3/4 the way around until the bezel will lift off.

There is a little notch out at the bottom (6 o'clock position) of the gauge housing flange. You should be able to just see it under the edge of the bezel when you look from the back of the gauge.

This is a good starting point for your screwdriver. Just work the edge of the bezel up slowly making several passes so as not to overstretch the metal in one spot.

Hope this all makes sense.

[TOERUNNER]

Had heaps of GTR 2" gauges open over the years. I always used a small flat blade screwdriver to gently and slowly pries the rolled lip of the bezel up for about 3/4 the way around until the bezel will lift off.

There is a little notch out at the bottom (6 o'clock position) of the gauge housing flange. You should be able to just see it under the edge of the bezel when you look from the back of the gauge.

This is a good starting point for your screwdriver. Just work the edge of the bezel up slowly making several passes so as not to overstretch the metal in one spot.

Hope this all makes sense.

Thanks mate, excellent advice as always.

[TOERUNNER]

Just replaced the resistor in the fuel gauge, just checking that i am on the right path, when the sender wire is disconnected it should read full and when the sender wire is earthed it should read empty , am i right or wrong?

[RallyRed]

From what I understand -   The sender in the tank varies from 0 ohms when Empty, to 30 ohms when Full.  

Thus, reckon your theory will work.

I do remember an old tale about not leaving the gauge disconnected, but powered up - for any length of time, but never heard why. 

[S pack]

With 12v power connected to the gauge Batt terminal and the gauge housing earthed and no load connected to the Sender terminal the gauge needle should flick over to Full.

As Col has said, with 30 ohms load the needle should indicate to Full and Empty is 0 ohms.

Col, having 12v power and no load won't hurt the magnetic type gauges used in the earlier Holdens and HB, LC,LJ & TA Torana.

It is the Thermal type instruments introduced around halfway through HQ production onwards and LH/LX Torana etc that will burn out very quickly if powered up with no sender unit load applied.

Edited by S pack, 06 June 2023 - 11:53 PM.

[RallyRed]

Ta Dave.  Knew there was something, but looking at the LC/LJ gauge circuit, I couldn't see how it would be an issue...'cause it's not.

[TOERUNNER]

From what I understand -   The sender in the tank varies from 0 ohms when Empty, to 30 ohms when Full.  

Thus, reckon your theory will work.

I do remember an old tale about not leaving the gauge disconnected, but powered up - for any length of time, but never heard why. 

 

With 12v power connected to the gauge Batt terminal and the gauge housing earthed and no load connected to the Sender terminal the gauge needle should flick over to Full.

As Col has said, with 30 ohms load the needle should indicate to Full and Empty is 0 ohms.

Col, having 12v power and no load won't hurt the magnetic type gauges used in the earlier Holdens and HB, LC,LJ & TA Torana.

It is the Thermal type instruments introduced around halfway through HQ production onwards and LH/LX Torana etc that will burn out very quickly if powered up with no sender unit load applied.

Thanks heaps guys.

[grumpy xu1]

Yep, Dave is correct on un rolling the edge ect, did mine a few years back.