7 replies to this topic

[horsepowerhowie]

Just need help on 

what pipe sizes and material to run for Brake and Petrol lines

 

I'm running a stock ls3 with VE HSV brakes all round and drop tank (In built VE Pump)

 

i was thinking

 

Petrol- 3/8 supply and 5/16 return ( also not sure on material hard- stainless ect?) and ( braided?)

 

Brake- 3/16 or 1/4 ( also not sure on material-hard stainless ect?)

 

Just wanted some thoughts and experience what's best to do 

 

Thanks Howie

 

 

 

 

[yel327]

I reckon you'll be safe with 3/8" for fuel. I don't think you need a return with a VE pump? These are regulated at the MRA as far as I know. I'm running a VZ pump (due to height of the HK fuel tank) which is the same basic thing as a VE just taller. It only needs a single line to the engine, the return to the MRA comes straight off the outlet of the fuel filter which is located just forward of the tank. I'm just using standard steel bundy tube.

 

Datto will have a better idea on brake lines, but I imagine 3/16 would be fine. Whatever suits your master cylinder and calipers/hoses.

[76lxhatch]

As above. Stainless won't be fun to bend - unless you really want it for show just ordinary bundy tube is much nicer to work with and perfectly adequate.

[dattoman]

3/16 for brake

Some stainless is difficult to work with...I prefer not to you is

But there is a version of a bright steel 3/16 tubing out there that polishes up well

[Heath]

3/16" for brakes.

 

If you ARE wanting to use stainless, I'll save you a lot of headaches easily. I struggled hard with Aeroflow's coiled stainless line and the shit kept on cracking during flaring, so I gave up on that.

 

I then settled on double annealed seamless stainless tube from Prochem for my brake lines.

Beautiful to bend, obviously a bit harder to flare. You need a good tool, and you need to lube it. But I had no problem getting good results with a bit of patience, cutting everything nice and square, de-burring inside and outside, etc.

Also, the stainless fittings are very expensive (I used SpeedFlow). I spent a bit over over $500 in materials (including braided flexible hoses) in addition to buying the tools. Then more again for the clutch hydraulics. But it's all very tidy.

 

Read from here onwards:

https://www.gmh-tora...atch/?p=1073572

[jpxu1]

3/16" for brakes.

 

If you ARE wanting to use stainless, I'll save you a lot of headaches easily. I struggled hard with Aeroflow's coiled stainless line and the shit kept on cracking during flaring, so I gave up on that.

 

I then settled on double annealed seamless stainless tube from Prochem for my brake lines.

Beautiful to bend, obviously a bit harder to flare. You need a good tool, and you need to lube it. But I had no problem getting good results with a bit of patience, cutting everything nice and square, de-burring inside and outside, etc.

Also, the stainless fittings are very expensive (I used SpeedFlow). I spent a bit over over $500 in materials (including braided flexible hoses) in addition to buying the tools. Then more again for the clutch hydraulics. But it's all very tidy.

 

Read from here onwards:

https://www.gmh-tora...atch/?p=1073572

 

This sort of stuff is exactly why we have forums, and ours is the best .... long may it live on :-)   

[Rockoz]

With the harder stainless tube would it help to anneal the end before doing the flaring?

Ive been playing with some 16mm 316 stainless for coolant lines, and it was near impossible to use a hand bender on it until I did some annealing.

Once annealed it bent up quite nicely.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[horsepowerhowie]

Appreciate the replies guys, solid advice.