53 replies to this topic

[nanbar]

Hi Everyone

Apologies if there is already a thread on this but I can seem to pinpoint one that has the info I need.

I want to replace the gauges in the dash (GTR type) and what I have understood so far is the VDO ones are the best option.

I have had a look and seems the Cockpit Vision models are the best match.

With the Oil Pressure, would anyone know what kPa range would I need for a 253? I assume 0-1000kPa would be ok (0-145psi)

With the fuel gauge, I believe it needs to be 30ohms, is 33ohms ok or would it be out?

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Cheers

Nanbar

[sibhs]

The old red motors don't have much oil pressure, I think my 6 cylinder might get to 50psi so 0-145 should be fine.

Regards to the fuel gauge, even originals are not accurate. Hoping someone might have some better info than mine.

 

Marty

[Bruiser]

If you had 145 psi your sump would blow off
That’s plenty of range on the gauge, just need to be sure the sender on the engine is the right one for it.
A lot of fuel gauges in cars I have had seem to let me drive for a fair while before the gauge starts to drop
Then the last quarter of a tank doesn’t last at all.
Don’t know if this is real common, or if it is a sender ohmage issue
3 ohms is 10% of 30, could make a difference.
I’d be dropping in to ask my friendly neighbourhood auto spark

[limo]

I always carry 5 litres of petrol in boot. I've had a lot of Holdens and Toranas.

[claysummers]

I have the same experience as Bruce with fuel gauges. I speculate it is related to a radial distortion where the sender arm pivots from the top of the tank. It will turn the rheostat further for equivalent height difference when the tank is low.


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[nanbar]

The old red motors don't have much oil pressure, I think my 6 cylinder might get to 50psi so 0-145 should be fine.

Regards to the fuel gauge, even originals are not accurate. Hoping someone might have some better info than mine.

 

Marty

 

If you had 145 psi your sump would blow off
That’s plenty of range on the gauge, just need to be sure the sender on the engine is the right one for it.
A lot of fuel gauges in cars I have had seem to let me drive for a fair while before the gauge starts to drop
Then the last quarter of a tank doesn’t last at all.
Don’t know if this is real common, or if it is a sender ohmage issue
3 ohms is 10% of 30, could make a difference.
I’d be dropping in to ask my friendly neighbourhood auto spark

 

I always carry 5 litres of petrol in boot. I've had a lot of Holdens and Toranas.

 

I have the same experience as Bruce with fuel gauges. I speculate it is related to a radial distortion where the sender arm pivots from the top of the tank. It will turn the rheostat further for equivalent height difference when the tank is low.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

All, thanks for the reply and help, much appreciated.

Edited by nanbar, 11 August 2023 - 07:52 PM.

[nanbar]

Apart from the fuel gauge seemingly not working properly, my tacho (after market Speco) does weird stuff when you turn the lights on. When you turn the lights on, the tacho needle goes to 0 RPM. When you adjust the dimming knob, the tacho starts working. What would cause this? 

[rodomo]

Bad dash earth I'm tippin

[yel327]

Or no 0V connection from the battery to the body. Or both (combination of this and as mentioned above). Sometimes people just have one big wire to the engine. Engine sits on rubber, as does gearbox.

Edited by yel327, 23 August 2023 - 09:07 PM.

[nanbar]

Bad dash earth I'm tippin

Dumb question, where exactly is the dash earth?

[Rockoz]

Dumb question, where exactly is the dash earth?

 

From memory. When you pull the instrument cluster out it will be towards the top of the opening up on the bulkhead. Just a self tapper for the earth coming from the dash harness.

But with your symptoms I would double check where the connections you are using actually go to.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Edited by Rockoz, 24 August 2023 - 11:26 AM.

[S pack]

Apart from the fuel gauge seemingly not working properly, my tacho (after market Speco) does weird stuff when you turn the lights on. When you turn the lights on, the tacho needle goes to 0 RPM. When you adjust the dimming knob, the tacho starts working. What would cause this? 

Make sure the headlamp earth wires have clean connections to the radiator support panel. Factory earth point for these is the top radiator mounting bolts on either side.
 

[nanbar]

All

I am talking to this guy an eBay for these as a replacement set for my gauges.

 

https://www.ebay.com...JkAAOSwZtBbPrpd

 

My questions are (and Im an electrical retard so go easy on me):

1. Are the 85mm gauges for Speedo and Tacho the right ones or are the 80mm ones better? I understand factory ones are 3 3/8" which converts to 85.725mm so I assume the 85s are a better match

2. The kit comes with all the senders but the fuel one looks nothing like the LC/LJ Torana one. The fuel gauge in the kit is a 10-180ohm unit, VDO make a 240-33ohm one, can some explain what 10-180 and 240-33 means in relation to the factory 30ohm number?

 

Thanks in advance.

Nanbar 

Make sure the headlamp earth wires have clean connections to the radiator support panel. Factory earth point for these is the top radiator mounting bolts on either side.
 

Will go and check this.

[nanbar]

Make sure the headlamp earth wires have clean connections to the radiator support panel. Factory earth point for these is the top radiator mounting bolts on either side.
 

See pic, both headlight earths are connected to the front panel via a tek screw. They dont go to the radiator support bolt.

Attached Files

•  IMG_6356 copy.jpg   145.59K   1 downloads

Edited by nanbar, 24 August 2023 - 04:20 PM.

[yel327]

That could be a problem. Show me your 0V link from the battery (-) to the body.

Edited by yel327, 24 August 2023 - 05:42 PM.

[Rockoz]

Make sure that all of your parking light, indicator lights and brake lights have good earths as well.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[nanbar]

That could be a problem. Show me your 0V link from the battery (-) to the body.

Ill do it tomorrow, I have to the old "Oh Steve could you move the Camira I need to get the Torana out so I can get to the Commodore. Steve – I’ll have to get the keys to the Cortina if I’m gonna move that Camira. Darryl – Yeah watch the boat mate"

Edited by nanbar, 24 August 2023 - 08:11 PM.

[nanbar]

Looks like I have some earth chasing work tomorrow, thanks for all your help everyone.

[nanbar]

That could be a problem. Show me your 0V link from the battery (-) to the body.

My battery is located in the boot, I traced the wires through the floor, along the rails towards the front of the car. It appears the negative bolts to where the starter motor bolts up (pic IMG_6360 copy) and the positive seems to connect to the coil (pic IMG_6361 copy).

Attached Files

•  IMG_6361 copy.jpg   229.02K   2 downloads
•  IMG_6360 copy.jpg   554.09K   2 downloads

[yel327]

That can’t be right. The big +ve wire should go to the starter and the big 0V wire (- on battery) to the engine block AND a smaller 0V wire also to the body. If you just have two big wires both to the engine that is your problem with stuff not working right. Add another wire, 4mm2 or 6mm2 from the battery - terminal to the body. Make sure it’s a clean contact with good contact. It may mean stripping paint and sealing with something once done up. This 0V strap is what carries the return current for your lights, guages etc. the big one only carries the current for the starter and the other engine mounted stuff like coil.

Edited by yel327, 25 August 2023 - 09:40 AM.

[Rockoz]

You still need a decent connection between the -ve terminal and the body of the car.

You might have one near the battery to the body.

But make sure you have one somewhere.

If you dont, you are going to have all sorts of electrical problems.

Some will be a problem all the time, some will be intermittent.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[nanbar]

That can’t be right. The big +ve wire should go to the starter and the big 0V wire (- on battery) to the engine block AND a smaller 0V wire also to the body. If you just have two big wires both to the engine that is your problem with stuff not working right. Add another wire, 4mm2 or 6mm2 from the battery - terminal to the body. Make sure it’s a clean contact with good contact. It may mean stripping paint and sealing with something once done up. This 0V strap is what carries the return current for your lights, guages etc. the big one only carries the current for the starter and the other engine mounted stuff like coil.

I may have had that the wrong way around, - to the coil, + to starter motor bolt. A third smaller red wire goes from the battery to a group of wires near the alternator. Can work out if that earths somewhere.

[S pack]

That can’t be right. The big +ve wire should go to the starter and the big 0V wire (- on battery) to the engine block AND a smaller 0V wire also to the body. If you just have two big wires both to the engine that is your problem with stuff not working right. Add another wire, 4mm2 or 6mm2 from the battery - terminal to the body. Make sure it’s a clean contact with good contact. It may mean stripping paint and sealing with something once done up. This 0V strap is what carries the return current for your lights, guages etc. the big one only carries the current for the starter and the other engine mounted stuff like coil.

He means the +ve from the battery connects to the starter motor solenoid.
 

[S pack]

I may have had that the wrong way around, - to the coil, + to starter motor bolt. A third smaller red wire goes from the battery to a group of wires near the alternator. Can work out if that earths somewhere.

The red wire should supply +ve power to the fuse box and allow charge from the alternator back to the battery
 

[yel327]

I may have had that the wrong way around, - to the coil, + to starter motor bolt. A third smaller red wire goes from the battery to a group of wires near the alternator. Can work out if that earths somewhere.

You missed the most important part. You MUST have a wire from the - terminal of the battery to the body. This is the 0V reference (and return) for all of the electrical loads on the body. The big one to the engine is only for the starter, coil and other engine mounted solenoids or items that need a 0V reference to work like temperature sensor.
Remember the engine& box is connected to the body via rubber. The exhaust and diff are connected to the body via rubber. About the only body to engine metallic connections are things like choke cable metal sheath or throttle linkage on early cars like HK-HG. Which is why things go haywire without the original 0V connection in place.

Edited by yel327, 25 August 2023 - 12:44 PM.