12 replies to this topic

[Waz LX]

Looking for some advice from the people in the know. Quite a few posts on Epoxy Primers but have struggled finding definitive steps to the process that I know others have done.

Have always had great results from Lacquer in the backyard on cars that have had previous paint jobs but with this project I will need to go back to bare metal.

What I would like to do is use a EPO 480 or AP4110 as a holding primer, then do my minor filler repairs followed by another coat of epoxy primer to seal everything off. I would then like to swap to a 1k lacquer system laying down 1k primer filler and continue through to a lacquer basecoat like I've done in the past.

EPO 480 doesn't mention anything but AP4110 tech sheet specifically says not to apply 1k over. Is there something I should be applying between? And after everything is sealed off in epoxy, panels might sit a while I work through the rest of the car, what prep should I be doing to the epoxy before moving on to the next process? Help Appreciated 

[claysummers]

Only going on what I was told and painted my FB ute with. Using the process you describe, Epotec 408 epoxy 2k etch, cure and thorough key with 240 grit. Upol fine finish filler then touch up with Epotec or Protec 458 aerosol. PPG Dulon premium primer surfacer filler with premium thinners. Rub back to 400. Make very sure there are no rub throughs to the Epotec. Finish with PPG Dulon solid colour.


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[yel327]

It's how my yellow GTS is painted.

[grumpy xu1]

Leave the epoxy on the panels but keep the car dry is a huge thing. I personally love old thick flannelette sheets over everything if you can get them, obviously once the epoxy is dry. Single pack primer is shit to be honest, just do the epoxy as you said, sealing everything away from each other and a re seal over the repairs with epoxy. I'd finish off sanding the epoxy with 240 free cut, after it's sat for 4 weeks and then shoot it with some 2 high build compatible with your epoxy. You can then progressively block that finer until 800 wet & dry & you could lay down acrylic, but if it was me & you can hire a booth, or have a decent spray room, 2 pack is by far the best way. I'd use a solvent based 2 pack. If it's a solid colour, don't use a clear. Obviously if it's a metallic, you will need to use a clear. Do not use a metallic paint over epotec without a primer in between. & epotec isn't actually an automotive designed product, I'm pretty sure that the other number that you mentioned is, the 1 designed for automotive use & you can use a metallic paint over it. Which you would only do on like, a fan breather cap ect.

[claysummers]

I think Epotec was developed for lining swimming pools?


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[grumpy xu1]

It's an industrial type of epoxy Clay. I can't remember the part number of the 1 specified for automotive use.

[Waz LX]

Cheers for the replies guys. Your probably right clay but have herd people using it with great results. Still looking for a confirmation on exact process people have used for a acrylic topcoat. Cheers

[claysummers]

Yes it's well regarded at the back yard restorer level, self included. Key it to 240 will ensure 1k acrylic primer with premium thinners sticks. Then proceed as normal acrylic job.

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[Cook]

Thanks for raising this topic Warrick as I am just about to do the same for part of a car I am restoring. Trying to restore sections at a time and then just epoxy to keep them "safe" until I finish the rest of the car. I have seen Epo 408 mentioned a lot but my paint guy suggested I use Epo G55. Not sure why but being totally new to it I will go with his suggestion. Cheers Ron

[Waz LX]

Cheers guys,

 

Cook EPO G55 is 408 it is just the color green but i have read somewhere about it having better properties, something about water? Maybe someone could explain. Sorry for the learner questions Clay but when you say key with 240. Is that scuffing up the EPO just prior to shooting the 1k primer?

[claysummers]

Yes. Need to thoroughly scuff the surface to ensure it sticks. Hence also the premium thinners to try and get it to bite.

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[grumpy xu1]

Sand with 240 free cut sandpaper is what we're saying. & certain paints don't have a good reaction to some thinners or reducers. Like metallic with some cheaper reducers. I've used protec with carmaster reducers, carmaster is their cheaper sister brand & had no problem. However sometimes you can definitely have issues with others.

[Waz LX]

Cheers guys will give it a go!