6 replies to this topic

[SamLX77]

Hi guys, I’ve recently removed the engine and th350 box from my lx hatch.

Box is now rebuilt & I have a new engine ready to go

wondering if it’s easier installing the engine first and then the box. Or has anyone tried fitting the box first then the engine, I’m getting conflicting information from people around me 

Help appreciated in advance 

[Rockoz]

Ive always found engine then box easier.

But if you can join them, and do both at the same time it is easier in some respects.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[Bigfella237]

Assume the K-member is still in the car? Otherwise I'd assemble the whole thing on the workshop floor and wheel it under in one piece.

 

If so, it's six of one, half a dozen of the other really. Both methods have advantages and pitfalls.

 

Only, if installing the engine from the top, it pays to pull the distributor out, or at the very least, remove the cap and rotor, otherwise you risk leaning the distributor on the firewall, smashing the cap and bending the shaft.

Edited by Bigfella237, 26 March 2024 - 07:32 PM.

[76lxhatch]

Just to add to the above, if you have a winged sump and want to install from the top you may have to install the trans separately

[SamLX77]

Thanks guys, that helps .

Just hit another snag

 

i just picked up my reconditioned th350, and stall converter which had an adapter plate welded ( not by me) to it 

for my old manual pattern block. That engine detonated.

 

I told him it was going on a new engine with a turbo pattern block prior to the repair,

Can someone please confirm I haven’t lost my marbles,??? 

 

So, if I'm installing a TH350 to a Turbo pattern 308 block,

the stall converter bolts straight into the flex plate , right? 

The adapter plate is only needed when it’s mounted to a manual pattern block 

 

thanks in advance 

[yel327]

Yes, those adapters sandwich between the box and the block as the bellhousing patterns are different for the GMH pattern engines. You want to avoid using them at all costs as they push the box backwards by 3/4" or thereabouts meaning spacers between the converter and the crank & flex plate. Plus shorter tailshaft, linkages in wrong spot etc.

 

You are going to have to get him to use all the TH350 guts into another case. It is the only real path forward. You don't want that spacer unless it's absolutely necessary! The only other ways are to get the engine modified to GMH pattern, or drill right through the spacer from the back for the 6 x bolt holes and the dowel. But you still end up with a spacer.

 

How much weld is on the spacer to the box? Can you carefully (by hand) cut either side of the welds to remove the bulk of the spacer, and then cut through the bulk of the pieces left welded, finishing with a file? Its only alloy so won't be that hard to do. Just time consuming. 

[rexy]

If I understand correctly you have already had the spacer plate T350 in your car and running before the old engine died?

 

The easiest path forward is to drill Turbo pattern holes through the T350 you have. With any luck the holes are still present on the case and just need to be extended through the spacer plate.

 

Do you have some pics of the box showing the plate/front of box from front, rear and side on?