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#1 Obey 1

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Posted 04 October 2006 - 07:28 PM

Hi all..
I am changing my LX from a 6 to an 8 as well I am putting on HQ stubs and brakes.Just wondering if anyone can recommend some springs for the front.
I priced pedders and they want $82 a spring or $164 for the front set of standard LX V8 springs (supply only).
Has anyone got recommendations on what to use ???
Either standard height or lowered and what brand.
Planning on running 205/65/14 on 14x6 wheels.
I am in the Sydney area
Cheers
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#2 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 12:46 AM

$164 a pair seems steep to me, you can get custom springs for that......

where in sydney are you? i can recommend a place that'll help you with all your suspension worries + they know toranas well.
cheers

#3 TerrA LX

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 12:58 AM

springs are usually supplied by quoting the height from the axle center (the center of the wheel) to the top of the wheel arch (guard opening).
request this measurement when enquiring and you be satiosfied with the result.

FYI; ordering standard H/D springs will actually make the car sit higher than standard because they carry a heigher load.

Edited by ALX76, 05 October 2006 - 12:59 AM.


#4 Obey 1

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 07:30 AM

Thanks for the Help..
Chamois Hatch ..I work out of Zetland and I am mobile so I can probably get around , if you could give me your suspension contact, that would be much apprciated, and yeah I thought $164 for the pair was a bit pricey??

ALX76 ...
I have the front end in pieces at the moment ,so it will be a bit hard to measure ,but if I was to put it back together(mock up) what positon should the arms be in to get the correct reading for the axle Height ??
Thanks Again
Obey 1

#5 makka

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 11:55 AM

the HQ stubs will lower the car a bit as well, around an inch by memory.
I think my front springs are lowered pedders and with the HQ stubs the front is verrrry low

#6 TerrA LX

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 06:10 PM

Thanks for the Help..
ALX76 ...
I have the front end in pieces at the moment ,so it will be a bit hard to measure ,but if I was to put it back together(mock up) what positon should the arms be in to get the correct reading for the axle Height ??
Thanks Again
Obey 1

you should have the bottom arm sitting level at normal ride position for the best handeling.
as for looks well the lower is the better eh?

#7 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 07:12 PM

How does custom spec front springs for $110 sound? Place is in Melbourne and only deals in cash. No credit card facilities.

#8 _jimjet61_

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Posted 05 October 2006 - 07:43 PM

Someone on here had a complete set front, rear (Brand New) A9X specs, and lowered I think? for sale about half price. Cant remember the name at the moment, only thing is it was over here in Perth, all really good gear, bought some stuff off him myself and would recommend. Think his name was Todd, if your interested, let me know as I think I still have his number.

#9 Obey 1

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Posted 07 October 2006 - 06:42 AM

Gday Chopper and JimJet61...
Thanks for both your replies.
Hopefully I can find a place in sydney that does good springs for the right price ,as I think the time I get them shipped interstate , it would probably cost me more!!
I could be wrong though.
Chopper..I understand your a bit of a suspension Guru..would you go for standard height or lowered springs??
I am just after something that will handle nicely.
Thanks again...
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#10 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 October 2006 - 11:05 AM

Since you intend on using HQ stubs on your Torry, I would suggest you use standard height, H/D front springs, as using the HQ stubs will lower the car by ( apparently ) 1". Make sure you use A9X or harrop steering arms to help correct the bumpsteer issues that arise from this conversion. Harrop sells the arms new for $297 the pair. They are located in ( 96? ) Bell street Preston, VIC.

#11 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 07 October 2006 - 01:23 PM

the suspension place is called, Jim hunter suspension, they are located on third ave in blacktown, right next to the woolies servo. they are in the front of the complex, you can miss them.

cheers

#12 Obey 1

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Posted 07 October 2006 - 07:19 PM

Thanks Chopper..Standard height springs it is. As for the sterring arms , I have got a mate who knows a guy who bends the torana steering arms up as per A9X, so hopefully this does the trick. I may be picking your brains later on about setting up the castor and camber once it all goes back together.I've got the crossmember with the top arm bolts already in the lowered position and the bolts have the thick steel washers on them.How many shims etc for the initial setup???

Chamois Hatch..thanks for the Lead ,I have looked him up in the Phone book and I will contact him next week.

Cheers guys
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#13 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 October 2006 - 07:39 PM

Bending the steering arms is something I haven't come across before and would be reluctant to personally try. If the arms were heat treated after being bent, it could be OK.

Going by what you posted, I would be aiming for:

Castor: +0.5
Camber: -1.25 +/- 0.25*
Toe in: 2.5 MM

If you have the same thickness washers in all four positions, try ( 2 ) 1/8" shims in both front bolts and ( 3 ) 1/8" shims in both rear bolts. That should be a reasonable initial setup until it gets aligned properly.

* As you will be running HQ stubs, you may run out of adjustment trying to reach that camber figure.

#14 Obey 1

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 08:17 PM

Chamois Hatch & Chopper...
Sorry I havent got back to you for a while, been busy !!
I rang Jim Hunter and he quoted me $125 for front HD standard height Springs.
A fair bit cheaper !!
And Chopper I had a look at the washers the front ones are Approx 9.5mm(11/32") and the back ones appear to be 13mm(1/2") that was the best I could read with a steel ruler, so I am guessing the shim setup will be a bit different to what you 1st quoted ??
If you get a chance please let me know what shims for initial setup.
Oh and yeah the steering arms are heat treated.
Thanks Heaps Guys..
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#15 Toranamat69

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 10:15 PM

It sounds like you are talking about the tube spacers that the LX's had on them, you definately need to remove those when putting the HQ stubs on a Torana unless you are chasing lots of negative camber.

I just had a look at the steering arms I have and you would not be able to bend LX ones to the same as A9X as they are physically too short. UC ones you would probably be able to but I just buy the Harrop ones when I need them.

M@

#16 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 11 October 2006 - 11:58 PM

nice to see you gave em a call, im going there tomorrow to get my suspension checked out, so we can figure out how to make her handle better, should be fun!

#17 _jklumpp_

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 01:26 PM

Just as a side note, Jim Hunter was the guy that raced the '73 Bathurst XU1 my mechanic owns - so he should know his Torrie stuff!

#18 _82911_

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 03:10 PM

As an aside to your aside...
was pitted next to Jim at the muscle car masters.. till he popped his head gasket and went home...
VERY KNOWLEDGABLE and personable bloke....
I don't think you could go too far wrong if you take his advise..
HE HAS BEEN THERE AND DONE THAT.. UNLIKE A LOT WHO SUGGEST THINGS ON THIS FORUM.... :shoot:

Cheers Greg..

#19 Obey 1

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 04:34 PM

Thanks Toranamat69 .. But .Now I am confused a bit... So the large steel washer or spacer tubes are suppose to be removed??
Is that correct ,so now the Top control arm bolts hard up to the Cross member (give or take the correct shims for initial setup).
Is that right ??
As far as the steering arms..I am relying on a mates correct info..
He tells me the guy doing it use to set up cars for Bathurst with this technique??
Fingers crossed!!!
and I am hoping to visit Jim hunters suspension over the weekend , I might put to him what I am planning and Hopefully he can point me in the right direction.
Cheers
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#20 _82911_

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 05:25 PM

and I am hoping to visit Jim hunters suspension over the weekend , I might put to him what I am planning and Hopefully he can point me in the right direction.


Good idea.. do that.
He used to race an L34 for the HDT as well you know and was widely regarded as an "Amaroo expert"


Cheers Greg..

#21 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 12 October 2006 - 07:53 PM

Thanks Toranamat69 .. But .Now I am confused a bit... So the large steel washer or spacer tubes are suppose to be removed??
Is that correct ,so now the Top control arm bolts hard up to the Cross member (give or take the correct shims for initial setup).
Is that right ??

Ideally, yes. If "close enough" is good enough for your alignment settings, or you can't be bothered removing the spacers, leave them in. Please note that if you were using standard Torana stub axles, they could be left in place without too many dramas.

#22 Obey 1

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 09:26 AM

After talking to one of the guys from Jim Hunter suspension , they recommended removing the Spacer tubes on the Top control arm because if I have to remove them when setting up the camber ,you have to pull the whole front end apart, which makes sense(easier to add shims). As welland to go for the Heavy Duty set of standard height Springs.
Hoping to get there shortly..oh and they are only $125 for the set, which is a bit of a cash saving as well.
Thanks for all the Help Everyone !!
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#23 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 14 October 2006 - 12:45 PM

Sorry, I forgot you were pulling the front end apart anyway, so yes definitely remove them.

#24 Obey 1

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Posted 21 October 2006 - 09:35 AM

Springs now purchased from Jim Hunter Susp.
$125 Standard height HD.
Thanks again to those who gave me input.
Tick off item 55 off 1000's of the To Do list.
Cheers
Obey 1




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