982 replies to this topic

[meanmachine72]

great work marty..were did you get your dash pad done and price mate?..need mine to get so love

[Rockoz]

Nice work on the cooler/drier.

With all the fittings, it may have been cheaper to buy a pipe bender.

I was think of something similar, but I was going to use a coil of pipe, and just tighten up the coils, trouble is I just dont have the room.

With just a single garage, and its only just a single, you couldnt open both doors of anything but a mighty boy in it, space is a premium.

Ive even resorted to having the Harley outside to get some room. Along with various lifting gear, stands and an old alloy V8.

 

Cant wait until I get a place of my own.

Primary decision on a new place will be a shed, or room to put one.

Couldnt care much less about a house. lol.

[sibhs]

great work marty..were did you get your dash pad done and price mate?..need mine to get so love

Our club sent off 4 dash's to the 'Dash Doctor' and it was $450 plus postage both ways which we split between us.  I'm so impressed at how well it came out, and it's definatley the one I sent them cause it still has my name on the back.

 

 

Nice work on the cooler/drier.

With all the fittings, it may have been cheaper to buy a pipe bender.

I was think of something similar, but I was going to use a coil of pipe, and just tighten up the coils, trouble is I just dont have the room.

With just a single garage, and its only just a single, you couldnt open both doors of anything but a mighty boy in it, space is a premium.

Ive even resorted to having the Harley outside to get some room. Along with various lifting gear, stands and an old alloy V8.

 

Cant wait until I get a place of my own.

Primary decision on a new place will be a shed, or room to put one.

Couldnt care much less about a house. lol.

Hi Rob, I did consider the bender but I decided to get some experience in copper pipe soldering. I always try and learn something new or get more experience. It may cost me in dollars but in life experences it's worth it.

[Mitchyboy]

Good stuff. Marty when you say you KBS all of your welds did you KBS them on the exterior panels of the car as well? Where they will be seen?
Then did you epoxy over all of it.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Edited by Mitchyboy, 08 September 2019 - 09:09 AM.

[sibhs]

Good stuff. Marty when you say you KBS all of your welds did you KBS them on the exterior panels of the car as well? Where they will be seen?
Then did you epoxy over all of it.
Cheers

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Yes all welding, even outer body.  You have to etch prime within a certain time while KBS is still tacky otherwise you'll have to scuff KBS at a later date.

It's amazing how the KBS will find a seal all the weld pin holes, something a spray etch wont do.

 

Marty

[Mitchyboy]

Yes all welding, even outer body. You have to etch prime within a certain time while KBS is still tacky otherwise you'll have to scuff KBS at a later date.
It's amazing how the KBS will find a seal all the weld pin holes, something a spray etch wont do.

Marty

Sweet.
I'm asking because I have done a few repairs to my back and front wind screen channels and I was thinking of applying the KBS system to my repairs. But as I am going to apply epoxy primer to the entire car I didn't know if I should or not as everything I have read says to apply the epoxy to bare metal.
Cheers mate

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

[sibhs]

G'day all,

It's been a couple of weeks since last report.  Enjoyed my time at ToranaFest an amazing job done by The Hunter Vally Torana Club. Also great to catch-up with some of the members on here.

 

Fiddlin' around with bits and pieces on the car, I'll let the picture and captions explain it all.

 

The inner guard headlight bit was messed up from previous damage so that was replaced.

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The front of the guard was swiss cheese after all the banging it back into shape so decided to cut it out and make a bit.

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After many on/offs of the guards I'm finally getting very close to a good fit. I want to check everything before I weld the windscreen cowl rust repairs in.

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Decided to make up some dollys. Made a stand from a rusty GTR rim and tube.

 

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Cut a dumbell weight in half and polished it before welding on to tube.

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Marty

 

 

[sibhs]

I needed a change of pace from panel and rust work so went to the back shed started prepping some of the chrome parts by wet and dry sanding then a polish.

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Filed off the dags around the badge.

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Stripped the bearings and springs from ash trays. Should of done this before the chrome was stripped.

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Poured a few more parts, will see how they turn out once fully cured,trimmed and polished.

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Marty

[Indy Orange]

Awesome job Marty, you don't miss anything .

[Rockoz]

A small vacuum tank would be handy for making those little bits and pieces.

I have one in my to do list.

Just need to buy some more steel.

Im going to have a polycarbonate clear lid so I can watch the progress.

Bought a vacuum pump off fleabay for about 100 bucks.

Used that to vac down my Commodore aircon before a regas.

For those who may be interested.

Bursons sell an aircon gas that is a replacement for the 134a or whatever it is that gets used these days.

It is hydrocarbon based, so you dont need a fridgey ticket to buy it.

It works well too.

A mob like Big Boys Toy shop also sells it.

Not sure if I got that name right though.

 

What are you using to for the plastic bits?

Is it a 2 part polycarbonate or something?

I was looking down that road for when I get around to it.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[sibhs]

A small vacuum tank would be handy for making those little bits and pieces.

I have one in my to do list.

Just need to buy some more steel.

Im going to have a polycarbonate clear lid so I can watch the progress.

Bought a vacuum pump off fleabay for about 100 bucks.

Used that to vac down my Commodore aircon before a regas.

For those who may be interested.

Bursons sell an aircon gas that is a replacement for the 134a or whatever it is that gets used these days.

It is hydrocarbon based, so you dont need a fridgey ticket to buy it.

It works well too.

A mob like Big Boys Toy shop also sells it.

Not sure if I got that name right though.

 

What are you using to for the plastic bits?

Is it a 2 part polycarbonate or something?

I was looking down that road for when I get around to it.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

Hi Rob, The first material I used would have benefitted with a vacuum tank due to it's thick consistency but this other product is very fluid and seems to poor well. It is a two part Polyurethane and feels and looks exactly like the original part.

Marty

[sibhs]

Howdy guys,

 

Finished off some work on the cowl. Tried a new method of MIG welding. Unlike how I've read to randomly spot weld your metal together and do it slowly to avoid heat warpage this is the opposite.  Once the piece is tacked in place, start the spot welding and do about 4-6 spots joining on to the previous spot then stop and hit it with the compressed air till is cool enough to touch. Then continue this process all the way along the join. This was my first go at this method and found it much better for getting less gaps/holes in-between spots and no warpage.

 

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Setting up for applying the rust blast solution which removes rust and leaves a rich zinc coating ideal for etching over or rust seal.

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Once dry I get set-up for the Rust seal.

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Here you can see how the rust seal creeps into every pin hole and completely encapsulates it and exiting out the other side.

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Applied copper spray to the bare metal that'll be welded.

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A quick reminder of what it used to look like.

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Marty

[claysummers]

Apart from all your outstanding panel fab work, I’m very impressed with the way you are moulding all those little dip shit plastic parts. Fiddly work indeed. I’ve seen workshops on this stuff at Adelaide Moulding and Casting where I get resin and cloth for fibreglassing. I reckon they use the polyurethane product.

Very thorough work all around. Thanks for posting.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Ice]

Impressive work as usual Marty

[71xu1]

Hey Marty, what diameter mig wire are you using?

[jd lj]

Marty,
As I was reading your previous post and looking at the pictures of the cowl and saw the surface rust I was thinking to myself that it needs some RUST BLAST on. It's good to see that your treating it with that.

[Ice]

Are those philips head screws original Marty ✌️

[sibhs]

Apart from all your outstanding panel fab work, I’m very impressed with the way you are moulding all those little dip shit plastic parts. Fiddly work indeed. I’ve seen workshops on this stuff at Adelaide Moulding and Casting where I get resin and cloth for fibreglassing. I reckon they use the polyurethane product.

Very thorough work all around. Thanks for posting.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Hi Clay, the shop I get the mould and resin material is also a fibreglass, resin etc shop too. There are a few different sorts depending on what hardness or flexibility you require.  I was almost going to try cast the rear quarter lenses but mine are good and that material is more expensive.

Cheers

 

Impressive work as usual Marty

Thanks Geno.

 

Hey Marty, what diameter mig wire are you using?

Hi Dave, I think there are two common sizes and I've got the thicker one. I was told the thinner might make a better weld but will break easy and give you the shits so I went thicker.  .7mm or .9mm  I can't remember and the label is not on the spool.

 

Marty,
As I was reading your previous post and looking at the pictures of the cowl and saw the surface rust I was thinking to myself that it needs some RUST BLAST on. It's good to see that your treating it with that.

Hi James, yes, Rust Blast is my friend.

 

Are those philips head screws original Marty ✌️

Get back in your hole Geno.

[sibhs]

A few more pics of the repairs around the heater box. Using a panel LED to light up the area.

 

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Applied Rust Seal to repairs and areas that need extra protection.

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Noticed a difference in spacing of windscreen pillar to dash on Passenger side compared to drivers. Pulled and jacked it into position.  I'm only talking about 3mm.

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Marty

[Rockoz]

What do you mean by break easier with the thinner wire?

I use 0.6 for panel work, and 0.8 or 0.9 for anything over about 1.2mm.

Im trying to get a bit better with my TIG work on thicker stuff before I waste lots of gas on panels.

TIG welds dress up a lot easier, but I guess Im more of a grinder than a welder at this stage.

But Im getting the jobs done and improving.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[S pack]

What do you mean by break easier with the thinner wire?

I use 0.6 for panel work, and 0.8 or 0.9 for anything over about 1.2mm.

Im trying to get a bit better with my TIG work on thicker stuff before I waste lots of gas on panels.

TIG welds dress up a lot easier, but I guess Im more of a grinder than a welder at this stage.

But Im getting the jobs done and improving.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

^^^ .6mm wire for panel work and .9mm for the heavier stuff like chassis repairs.

Edited by S pack, 13 October 2019 - 08:51 PM.

[sibhs]

Thanks guys, I've had a chat with 71XU1 Dave and decided I will try the .6mm.

 

What do you mean by break easier with the thinner wire?

I use 0.6 for panel work, and 0.8 or 0.9 for anything over about 1.2mm.

Im trying to get a bit better with my TIG work on thicker stuff before I waste lots of gas on panels.

TIG welds dress up a lot easier, but I guess Im more of a grinder than a welder at this stage.

But Im getting the jobs done and improving.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

 

Hi Rob, It's just what I've heard, presuming they mean break at the spool drive area???

I will find out soon. It's on the shopping list

Marty

[Rockoz]

Have never had 0.6mm break.

Have had very few jams, but turning the tension down a little prevents it most of the time.

Aluminium is a real bugger for doing it.

It usually happens when the wire hits the metal without arcing.

 

But using 0.6mm on panels makes it sooooooooooooo much easier.

You will blow less holes. You can use a slightly higher voltage for better penetration to.

 

Ive gone through a few rolls of 0.6,, over the last 10 years, and still havent used up a single roll of 0.8 or 0.9.

I bought a roll of 0.8 accidentally just recently. It will sit around for a long time before getting used.

I opened the box before I noticed, so will wear my mistake.

 

Ive been rebuilding my box trailer lately, so have used a bit of the thicker wire.

But will spool it up with 0.6 again shortly.

 

I wish I was in the same position as a mate of mine I worked with ages ago.

He had 2 300 or 400 amp Cebora Migs. One for steel, the other for aluminium, complete with a water cooled push pull setup on the gun.

He had another AS400 diesel rig that he had set up mainly for bucket hard facing.

Lots of other gear too.

He looked after a fleet of alloy tipper coal trucks, plus a few other owners trucks. He did dozer, loader and excavator repairs too.

Was a great time working with him. Always something different to tackle.

 

He taught me a heap about welding and prep and the like.

Not bad for me being an electrician, welding up aluminium bodies on coal trucks.

I needed variety even back then 20 years ago, or I just got bored.

 

Cheers

 

Rob

[sibhs]

I grabbed a roll of .6mm today and loaded it up and gave it a test.

 

I think it is a better weld and should help me get better results. I'm still getting used to it, feels like I can drop the power but have to feed the wire a bit faster to get a smooth weld.

 

There were a few bits to change as pictured below and lucky I found them in a box that came with the second hand welder.

 

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Thanks to Dave for spotting my big welds and mentioning wire size. Just remember I am no expert and have only learnt from you-tube, this forum and one metal shaping class.

 

Looking forward to better welds.

 

Cheers

Marty

[Rockoz]

You will get better very quickly with the 0.6.

It welds differently I find.

I get a lot more spatter with 0.8 or 0.9.

The welds are heaps cleaner.

My current task is improving my TIG skills, but it uses way more gas.

TIG welds are a lot softer to shape as well.

Hope Im not repeating myself.

Love my painkillers, but they give me alzheimers like symptoms sometimes.

 

Set the tension on the roller as low as you can to prevent bird nesting.

It will be a bit tighter than what is required to pull it off the roll.

If you avoid dead on starts, you can keep it low, but if you hit dead on it will either slip or birds nest.

Blow your liner out regularly too. Its amazing how much crap can get caught in it.

If you end up trying a bit of aluminium work, the experts recommend a seperate liner for that to reduce contamination.

 

Learning to weld aluminium is fun, but can also be frustrating.

Its a whole new world of fun.

 

Cheers

 

Rob