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HQ stub axles(spindles)


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#76 A9X

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 11:07 AM

Thanks Andy,

I'll take it. It'll give my spannerman an excuse to catch up with you on your offer to look at your front end.

Welby

#77 _L31SLR_

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 01:58 PM

No time for sleep after nightshift for the spare parts market!
I would appreciate you getting me some prices dattoman. At this stage it looks like I will be comming down to Perth either late Jan or early Feb.

Here are some pictures of the UC that I was telling you all about. Picked it up for SFA. Ended up with yet another set of 13x7 Hotwires. The body is really good for rust and I even managed to get it running! The power of the Starfire moves my world. I might suggest that we retro fit these engines into the shovels at work.

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Charlie L31SLR

#78 dattoman

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 02:36 PM

So you paid market value for it.......... next to nuttin

I'm just waiting on a reply back from supplier on avail and I'll email you your prices

Wanna cut some bits off that wreck if I need them ?
You driving down ?

#79 _L31SLR_

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Posted 05 January 2007 - 02:54 PM

Flying down and driving back. Ended up buying that Jackaroo I was telling you about when I was down last time.
Once I've got some prices I will let you know what I want.
I can still see grass in the backyard, are you sure I don't want the LJ? Maybe I should try and get the LH so I can get it out of the shed before I buy any more. I hasn't stopped you though datto!
Cheers for the help
Charlie L31SLR

#80 A9X

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 11:59 AM

Andy - are we good on the Nolathane ?

Rory - What balljoints did you use ?

Welby

#81 _rorym_

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 12:15 PM

TRW.
R

#82 Dangerous

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Posted 08 January 2007 - 04:23 PM

I just posted a few pics on the RTS and upper wishbone thread if anyone's interested. Maybe I should have posted in this thread instead?? I kinda got carried away and put a few in of A9X steering arms and stub axles too.

Rory, that's a nice front end setup - did you drill the upper arm holes at the same spot as A9X, or lower? The A9X front crossmembers also had a dirty big square section bump stop welded to them- you might be able to see it in my 'jigsaw' photo.

#83 slr5640

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Posted 09 January 2007 - 01:59 PM

The A9X front cross members also had a dirty big square section bump stop welded to them- you might be able to see it in my 'jigsaw' photo.

Hi there, Is this what you are referring to?




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#84 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 12:51 PM

the wilwoods... i know they are being used on the track, but how are they on road cars. i've heard they got no dust boots, and engineers dont like them. correct me if im wrong. rory yours will be road registered will it not?


cheers

#85 _bodallafella_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 04:13 PM

Wilwoods are no good for street use and from what I hear have recently been banned by the RTA, the TAC and whatever the QLD equivalent is. The main problem is the lack of dust seals but the NPT fittings are also not acceptable for road use.

#86 _rorym_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 05:24 PM

Road registered...The piece welded on the lower arms the same piece thats show in the pics on the UC front end? (I will slip out and get a pic) I drilled the holes 25mm lower than the std UC holes so it is about A9X place. My stubs are also HZ so if HZ 1 tonner are the same as A9X part no, it stands to reason the sedans will be the same number...cant see why they would be different..it is GMH after all...they used the parts bin like everyone else. By the dust covers do you mean the backing plates? If so..I binned them off the other race car too..ala XU1 original. I have the new forged Wilwood and they have what looks like a dust SEAL on the pistons to me same as XU1 Girling brakes so maybe they changed the design on this new caliper.
R

Edited by rorym, 13 January 2007 - 05:37 PM.


#87 _rorym_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 05:42 PM

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Pic 1 Centre of mounting bolt is now 55mm below lip on subframe as per A9X specs the boys were talking about.
Pic 2 The bump stop on the lower arm.
Just looked at Dangerous pics..hes right...there is a piece welded on the bottom of the subframe to do exactly as the piece does on the UC..its a very cude steering stop they did not add onto the A9X arm...Amazing!
R

Edited by rorym, 13 January 2007 - 05:50 PM.


#88 _rorym_

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Posted 13 January 2007 - 05:59 PM

Dangerous..I cant find the measurement..what the distance from the LIP..above to centre of the UCA mounting bolt on the A9X?..Sure u posted it somewhere but I cant find it,
R

#89 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 12:55 AM

yeah by the dust cover i meant a boot/seal like on a standard torrie calipers which helps keep road grime out of the piston bore.

how would i go about finding the lagaslities of wilwood calipers for street use, is it as simple as calling the RTA?

cheers

#90 dattoman

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Posted 14 January 2007 - 01:37 PM

They probably won't know themselves

I've seen many cars with these calipers legally registered so I don't see the issue really
Many production calipers don't have a proper dust boot and allow the piston to be exposed
Such as Range Rover , Mini , And alot of other british poo
Its not really an issue it just means the caliper required more regular maintenance
Infact many AP racing calipers that have ADR31 compliance don't have proper dust boots either

#91 _Chamois hatch_

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Posted 15 January 2007 - 03:44 PM

cool, thanks for the explination datto

#92 Dangerous

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 05:50 PM

The A9X front cross members also had a dirty big square section bump stop welded to them- you might be able to see it in my 'jigsaw' photo.

Hi there, Is this what you are referring to?




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Yep, that's it.

#93 _rorym_

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Posted 18 January 2007 - 06:03 PM

Dangerous..I cant find the measurement..what the distance from the LIP..above to centre of the UCA mounting bolt on the A9X?..Sure u posted it somewhere but I cant find it,
R

??

#94 Dangerous

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Posted 19 January 2007 - 11:00 AM

My stubs are also HZ so if HZ 1 tonner are the same as A9X part no, it stands to reason the sedans will be the same number...cant see why they would be different..it is GMH after all...they used the parts bin like everyone else.

Nope, the 1 tonners used a 'heavy duty' stub axle with a different part number to the rest of the models. The 1 tonner part number is the same as the A9X part number. It's probably overkill though, as I can't see how you'd break even an HQ stub axle short of running the car into something.

As for the measurements, I haven't measured to the top of the tower, but there are measurements to the bottom of the chassis rail in the "RTS thread" for LH, LX RTS, non RTS. Haven't got one yet for the lower ones on the A9X.

#95 Toranamat69

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Posted 22 January 2007 - 01:30 AM

Here is the bumpsteer curves for the HQ to HZ stubs fitted to a Torana using all 3 options of steering arms.
As the rumours say, the A9X arm is the one to use. These measurements were taken using 3 degrees positive castor.

Interrestingly, it would be even closer to ideal if I wound the castor up to about 4 degrees positive and the UC steering arm one would be the pic if I was running more like 1 to 1.5 degrees positive castor.

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M@

#96 _rorym_

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Posted 23 January 2007 - 11:22 AM

I am surprised the A9X one is so different considering it is the same length as the UC one bit is only slightly lower.
R

#97 _LX-5000_

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 09:57 PM

:D Hi all , just registered and new to this computer world so forgive me if i stuff this up somehow. Read with interest all the front end mod's going on , having just done similar stuff myself. I used crs dropped stubs, hq. discs & hz alloy girlock calipers front mounted, 15+7 convo pros 225/15/50 on a UC front end . Didn't know about the harrop steering arms , wish i did because the bump steer is S@#T. After reading all the info iv'e got a couple of Q's.
1/. How did u get around the K.P.I.A. 2 DEGREE difference between torana & hq. stubs?

2/. Reason for lowering UCA mount ?

Any info would be appreciated, cheers craig.

#98 TerrA LX

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Posted 18 February 2007 - 10:07 PM

I am surprised the A9X one is so different considering it is the same length as the UC one bit is only slightly lower.
R

so would it right to say that keeping the rack as close as possible to horizontal reduces the amount of bump steer (that being the relation to the differences of higher or lower location) or does the length (away from the stub C/L) play a part too?

#99 dattoman

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 12:39 AM

:D Hi all , just registered and new to this computer world so forgive me if i stuff this up somehow. Read with interest all the front end mod's going on , having just done similar stuff myself. I used crs dropped stubs, hq. discs & hz alloy girlock calipers front mounted, 15+7 convo pros 225/15/50 on a UC front end . Didn't know about the harrop steering arms , wish i did because the bump steer is S@#T. After reading all the info iv'e got a couple of Q's.
1/. How did u get around the K.P.I.A. 2 DEGREE difference between torana & hq. stubs?

2/. Reason for lowering UCA mount ?

Any info would be appreciated, cheers craig.

Question 1 and 2 answer each other

#100 Toranamat69

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Posted 19 February 2007 - 01:28 AM

QUOTE (rorym @ Jan 23 2007, 11:22 AM)
I am surprised the A9X one is so different considering it is the same length as the UC one bit is only slightly lower.
R�


so would it right to say that keeping the rack as close as possible to horizontal reduces the amount of bump steer (that being the relation to the differences of higher or lower location) or does the length (away from the stub C/L) play a part too?


Have you checked out this link from the PS thread? Check the diagram right at the bottom it is really useful for working out where to line everything up.

http://www.longacrer...rt.asp?ARTID=13

If you check the curves I plotted above, they are each a fairly good approximation of a straight line. The curl on the top of all 3 is in my measuring device, not the bumpsteer so it shouldn't actually be there and the little wriggles are my inaccuracies in my measurements so if you ignore those couple of things, you have 3 straight lines. What that says is it doesn't matter how high or low your car is if you are using the same stub axle and steering arm, your bumpsteer is not going to change, you just operate further up the line but you rezero when you set your toe-in when you get a wheel alignment.

The reason the H series stubs make such a difference with bumpsteer is because the 2 holes that mount the steering arm are a lot higher above the lower balljoint than they are on a Torana stub.

It is the relationship between the Top and bottom balljoints and the steering tie rod end that make the Torana stubs different to the H series, not the fact they are 30mm lower ride height, nor the difference in KPI.

The distance away from the rack CL plays a part in your steering directness and will also effect the ackerman angles of your steering but not really your bumpsteer.

M@

Edited by Toranamat69, 19 February 2007 - 01:31 AM.





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