bloody aussie 4 speeds
#1 _LX8VD69_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 01:18 PM
cheers adam
#2
Posted 29 November 2006 - 01:26 PM
Anyway, put a different box in the vehicle (if you need to keep driving it) and get the one in the car rebuilt properly.
I don't think jumping out of gear would be shifter adjustment related...
#3 _dave720gtr_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 01:38 PM
to adjust it. remove your linkagers from the forks and stick a phillips head driver
the right size one, into the hole push it right in. this lines all the shifter likagers up,
then all you need to do is adjust the ends of the likagers so thay slip on to the
selector forks nice, and then it should be all lined up
Edited by dave720gtr, 29 November 2006 - 01:43 PM.
#4
Posted 29 November 2006 - 01:45 PM
I have the same problem with my box...you can't be guaranteed of it staying in first away from the lights..it throws itself out of gear violently unless you hold pressure on the stick and put some load on it with the clutch before you drive off to make sure it is in gear properly.
My solution is to get another box..I got one for $50...will go in at christmas with the next engine...not new..just next.
#5 _82911_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 02:05 PM
Cheers Greg..
#6 _lx5008_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 02:44 PM
#7 _chevy_253_torana_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 03:14 PM
new box or rebuild that
#8 _wrecker67_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 04:56 PM
cheers
#9
Posted 29 November 2006 - 05:45 PM
I'd like $150 for it, includes shifter , clutch, etc
#10 _UCV80_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 06:08 PM
#11 _Oldn64_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 07:47 PM
I agree with Greg here. It wil not be too long before it chips a tooth and then fractures it. you will end up with an input shaft with missing teeth (usually 4 or more) and a cluster that is stuffed. at this point it is cheaper to through and replace..Most likely is syncro engagement teeth on the gear face are worn . If it is doing it only in first then it could be your front bearing clearance is too large.Both are wear related. Pull the box out and reco it b4 1st gear eats itself and all the other gears as well.
Cheers Greg..
Build it now whiel it is salvagable. (it may still require a cluster but at least that is only one gear)
Cheers
#12 _jap-xu1_
Posted 29 November 2006 - 07:49 PM
move back into the reverse gate with the shifter and pull the shifter rearward,this will fully disengage reverse and you wont be stuck any more
#13 _LX8VD69_
Posted 30 November 2006 - 12:35 AM
#14 _LX8VD69_
Posted 30 November 2006 - 07:41 PM
cheers adam
#15
Posted 30 November 2006 - 08:41 PM
If your aussie box gets stuck in reverse but shifter is in first etc...on a side note if youe aussie box gets stuck in reverse *snip* try this.*snip*
Jam a long screw driver down the front of the reverse gate, move back to the middle, so the shifter is able to be moved back into the right place.
This was also a great security feature on my sedan as no one has been able to drive it without jamming the gears!
Coke cans cut up make great/cheap shims for worn shifters when they cant be tightened any more
#16
Posted 01 December 2006 - 03:04 PM
#17 _LX8VD69_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 05:47 PM
#18 _rorym_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 05:57 PM
R
#19 _82911_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:15 PM
People bag the shit out of them, most without ever having pulled one down.
They are a good box that is very capable of holding 350 REAL horsepower if treated properly. Anything will break if it is abused.
They need a 75/90 weight oil to perform well. This means that they will be a little notchy when cold but once they have a few k's on the they warm up and everything smooths out.
The "old trick" of using ATF in these trans is a wives tale, as is banana skins in the diff.. IT IS PURE NONSENSE. As unfortunately you have just discovered.ATF is very poor as an extreme pressure lubricant. So you have almost certainly screwed the clearance between the gears and the mainshaft, this is the screeching you can here...The shaft is picking up metal from the gear bore.
It's like this.... the box warned you that your bearing clearance was loose and you didn't listen, better not drive it anymore. Pull it out and get a reco, hopefully it's not completely screwed.
I word of warning though if you do keep driving it you will eventually weld 1st speed to the mainshaft and then the lot is really screwed!
Should cost about $500 for a full reco from someone reputable. Which is much cheaper than a conversion cost..
Good luck with it all..
Cheers Greg..
Edited by 82911, 01 December 2006 - 06:17 PM.
#20 _LX8VD69_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:24 PM
#21 _Monkey_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:27 PM
#22 _82911_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:48 PM
Pull the box....It is going to come apart, big time.
Also Syn won't fix it,and Aussies don't like syn fluid it is too slippery for the the synchros. If you use it you will crunch on the change.
Tuf 73..... it's an old back yard tale that is said to stop the diff from whinning.. it might work for a km or 2.
Cheers Greg..
Edited by 82911, 01 December 2006 - 06:51 PM.
#23 _Monkey_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 06:55 PM
#24 _82911_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 07:06 PM
an icecream is cheaper!
Cheers Greg..
#25 _Monkey_
Posted 01 December 2006 - 07:17 PM
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