LJ 383 PROJECT
#26
Posted 26 January 2006 - 01:11 PM
#27
Posted 26 January 2006 - 01:32 PM
#28
Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:04 PM
I have one of those Eagle Stroker kits in mind
AA have the block now doing the machine work
#29 _dags383_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:55 PM
Hey Dattoman,Looks good Dags
I have one of those Eagle Stroker kits in mind
AA have the block now doing the machine work
I bought the Wilwood polished master cylinder out of the US in 1-1/8 configuration. I have one VH44 that I need to recon, what would be the cost for a kit to do it or is it better just to hand it over to you guys to check out?
What is the law on stainless brake hoses at the moment or is that the least of my licenseing problems?
The eagle kits are very well made and it is what I would have ended up with but they had no one piece cranks in Australia so the Scat 9000 was its replacement.
Have you spoken to Cass about the price? I am sure that she would do a deal for you or do you want me to ask her.
Cheers,
#30 _dags383_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:58 PM
HI Draglchey mate the paint looks fantastic!!
there are a few chrome bits on ebay at the moment.. got some links for ya
http://cgi.ebay.com....me=STRK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com....me=STRK:MEWA:IT
thought there was more, have a look around.
A1
Yea i seen these on Ebay but i am sure it must be cheaper to chrome your own than to buy these. I have to take the bonnet latch and under bonnet bits to the chromers next week so I will let people know what the price came out at.
#31
Posted 26 January 2006 - 02:59 PM
Thats the price Cass quoted me last week when I went in there
The VH44 I would like to disassemble and make sure its OK inside for you
Then I can supply whatever is needed to repair it as required.
I have a licence to make the braided stainless steel hoses so no issues there
Cheers
Neil
#32 _dags383_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:04 PM
Hi Neil,CMP was selling the kits at Motorvation for $1000
Thats the price Cass quoted me last week when I went in there
The VH44 I would like to disassemble and make sure its OK inside for you
Then I can supply whatever is needed to repair it as required.
I have a licence to make the braided stainless steel hoses so no issues there
Cheers
Neil
Bargain price on the kit. Good news on the s/steel hoses as that is the way i want to go. I am looking on Ebay at a couple of VH44 to buy for the second unit. When are you back at the office so i can drop the one i have here in?
Cheers,
#33 _dags383_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:10 PM
Hey O5,Thats georgious. Im so far from that sort of progress but am ready for sandblasting, just gotta save the cash).
What you see now is about 3 years of work although it has really moved ahead in the last 15 months or so. I stripped the whole car to bare metal with paint stripper and a scraper which was no easy job but it saved a fortune on paying for sandblasting. It really has taken so long because i just didnt have the cash to pay other people to do the work which meant it had to be done by me.
If you need any tips on panel work or what to use let me know.
Stick with it as it is worth it in the end.
Cheers,
#34
Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:20 PM
#35
Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:34 PM
Cars like this make me proud to be a Torana enthusiast
#36 _dags383_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 03:55 PM
Heath,That is unbelievable. Did you spray it yourself? I can't imagine how much experience is required to do a job like that, phwah that looks HOT!
Cars like this make me proud to be a Torana enthusiast
Sadly no I didnt paint it Sam from Vulcans Panel and Paint in Canning Vale applied the paint and did a bloody great job of it too. Would recommend him if anyone is looking to have there car sprayed.
Almost all of the panel work leading up to the paint including the rust repairs (All metal) replacing a front guard, replacing part of the sills, the lower section of the other guard and the rear wheel well, bog work, polyester etc were all done by me with absolutely no panel experience before it shows that you can do anything when you put your mind to it.
Cheers,
#37 _Bomber Watson_
Posted 26 January 2006 - 07:45 PM
looks the goods mate.
#38
Posted 26 January 2006 - 08:44 PM
#39 _dags383_
Posted 27 January 2006 - 12:08 AM
Yes I am fitting 2 remote boosters one under each front guard. There is plenty of room at the very front of the underneath and I need only to make a small cover for each one to give it a little protection. I have seen the same done on another Torana in Perth and you would never know they are there and it works a treat.Its looks awesome.Are you going to have 2 remote boosters,where are you putting them?
I am running VN discs on the 9" and HJ rotors on the front so the need for two to stop is essential.
Cheers,
#40 _355lxss_
Posted 27 January 2006 - 08:28 AM
Dags350 is right, its cheaper to get your own chromed. Ive just had the hatch & bonnet latches chromed also the bit where the upper wishbone mounts to on the front end which cost me $100 all up.HI Draglchey mate the paint looks fantastic!!
there are a few chrome bits on ebay at the moment.. got some links for ya
http://cgi.ebay.com....me=STRK:MEWA:IT
http://cgi.ebay.com....me=STRK:MEWA:IT
thought there was more, have a look around.
A1
Yea i seen these on Ebay but i am sure it must be cheaper to chrome your own than to buy these. I have to take the bonnet latch and under bonnet bits to the chromers next week so I will let people know what the price came out at.
Looking very nice dags350, paint work looks brilliant, cant wait to see the finished product
#41 _draglc_
Posted 27 January 2006 - 08:48 AM
I wouldnt mind some advice with sanding back my car. It was painted years ago, but never sanded back and cut and polished. Sanding it bit by bit now with 1200 wet and dry, i think i just have to get rid of the gloss over the whole car? Make it look dull?
Any help would be tops
A1
#42
Posted 27 January 2006 - 04:12 PM
#43 _dags383_
Posted 26 March 2006 - 07:08 PM
Well it has been a while since I have posted anything new to my project page so here is the latest update.
All doors have now been fitted with glass and all new seals and rubbers even though the rare spare door seals are a problem when closing the doors.
The boot seal has been fitted but it now does not allow the boot to close properly. Does anyone have any advice on this?
The car is back on 4 wheels with the front crossmember c/w motor and box has been fitted for the final time.
Steering has been fitted again hopefully for the last time.
Super low springs have been fitted in the rear.
The grill, lights, indicators etc have been fitted
Reconditioned bumpers are fitted.
Regards,
#44
Posted 26 March 2006 - 07:28 PM
Hope mine doesnt take three years to get it runnin!!
Top job
Damo
#45
Posted 26 March 2006 - 07:30 PM
As far as the boot is concerned... before you start playing around with the hinge adjustments etc, make sure the rubber gets some time out in the hot sun and then you'll see how it naturally wants to sit. Just wearing it in...
#46
Posted 26 March 2006 - 08:29 PM
#47 _SIR383_
Posted 26 March 2006 - 08:30 PM
What EFi manifold setup are you using? And what computer is going to be running it all.
I want to do the efi setup for mychev but cannot find many decent setups, i am very keen on info and feedback.
Cheers
Casey
#48 _dags383_
Posted 26 March 2006 - 10:11 PM
Hi Casey,Very nice job dags, the pictures are getting me all excited about getting stuck back in to my project.
What EFi manifold setup are you using? And what computer is going to be running it all.
I want to do the efi setup for mychev but cannot find many decent setups, i am very keen on info and feedback.
Cheers
Casey
The motor is an LT1 that came from a 94 Camaro so it was fuel injected from the factory. It was the first of the multipoint injection systems in the US. The motor is commonly known as the GEN 2.
I will be using the original computer from the donor car but having the program changed by someone in the US. The computer has a memory unlike the earlier commodores here that had a chip. I just email the specs for my motor and the file from my computer the guy modifies the file and sends it back, I flash it to my computer and it's ready to go. I also bought a painless wiring harness from the US which has six wires that splices directly into the original Torana harness for starting, charging etc. It has it's fusebox and relays.
These injection systems are easy to use but unless you have the bolt holes on the manifold changed and a hole made to put a dizzy into then it will not fit the earlier model chev heads. You could try eagle motors in Sydney as they import a lot of these form the USA.
This is my first venture with fuel injection so I am also on a learning curve at the moment.
Cheers,
#49
Posted 26 March 2006 - 10:19 PM
manifold 1
manifold 2
#50 _MAWLER_
Posted 27 March 2006 - 12:17 PM
Peace,
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