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Aussie Desert Coolers

Started by _jklumpp_ , Feb 19 2007 12:53 PM

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#26 _jklumpp_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 01:47 PM

I feel as the topic starter, I should step in at this point and defend the Desert Cooler...
I installed mine a few weeks back now - a 3 core, triple pass.
Before installing, the temp was on the red within about 15min of running.
With the desert cooler in, temp is about 1/4 gauge (80deg C) even after over an hour.... traffic doesn't evenh seem to effect it.
Granted, I've probably on done 100-150km with it in, but so far I'm impressed.
Only problem fitting was that the brackets don't come drilled (to allow you to install at your prefered height), and was slightly narrower than original radiator, meaning mounting holes were close to the edge, and there is no tabs on the side of the radiator to hold the overflow hose as per original... neither really a drama.

So so far, I'm a believer & a supporter! :spoton:

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#27 _LH SL/R 5000_

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Posted 26 March 2007 - 05:08 PM

Anyone used a PWR radiator? if so do you think they are worth the money.

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#28 Struggler

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Posted 09 April 2007 - 07:16 PM

The pressure required to produce the same flow is 64 times greater, all things being equal in a equivalent sized triple pass to a single pass.

This is correct.

A standard 308 water pump has its work cut out for it. They aren't the best design and efficiency is borderline already. To create the pressure required to force water through the triple pass radiator will incur cavitation much earlier. The triple flow might be OK for a cruiser but I would never use one in a performance application.

JMHO

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#29 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 01:31 AM

no it's aint the head gaskets, its a brand new motor 60 thou over 308

heppy i would almost garantee it would be a water pump issue make sure its not a pressed tin impeller. a cast impeller 5litre VT pump would be the go.

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#30 _P51_

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 12:09 PM

When fitting aluminium radiators you need to totally flush your whole system of all previous traces of coolant, different types can react and cause corrosion......... :cry:

For aluminium you should only use a Glycol based coolant.

After you have the radiator installed in your car turn everything(radio, air-con, lights etc..) on with the motor running and check for "stray current". :gun:

All this means is you need to have all your ancillary items properly earthed or electrolosis/ corrosion could occour and can cause leaks quicker than you would think??? :huh:

Cheers justin...............

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#31 tinkers

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:31 PM

Thread has been pruned back.

Play nice in the sandpit EVERYONE!

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#32 TerrA LX

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:15 PM

For aluminium you should only use a Glycol based coolant.

Cheers justin...............

What part does antifreeze play in protection of alloy radiators?

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#33 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:28 PM

Some non-glycol based coolants attack the alloy.

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#34 TerrA LX

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Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:35 PM

cheers chopper,
do you know what types i should stay away from?

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#35 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 11 April 2007 - 09:32 AM

P51 made it fairly clear which types to use. The basic ingredients are the same, so mainly it's the brand name that's different.

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#36 Tiny

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Posted 11 April 2007 - 04:11 PM

Anyone used a PWR radiator? if so do you think they are worth the money.

Yes and YES.

2 core, 1" tubes with "turbulators" chev pattern into HQ with auto trans cooler in bottom tank ( never used) ALLOY.

Had it many years now and has never given any troubles and also has done its job WELL!

I use HOLDEN genuine coolant, and used to use it straight, but will now go back to mixing it as per the bottle's insturctions.

Cheers.

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#37 TerrA LX

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 01:26 PM

There is also strong evidence to stay away from tap water, for one it contains calcium which builds up in the system and if the water is too hard etc that can assist the corrosion.

Some forms of glycol can also assist corrosion. For me, i would run straight inhibitor as it is specifically designed to protect against corrosion.

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#38 Tiny

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 04:46 PM

For those who run an alloy radiator, I was also advised to check for stray electrical current in the water to stop electrolysis. I also put an earth strap from my radiator to the body so that any current there should pass harmlessly through the radiator!

I wonder if i did the right thing?

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#39 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:01 PM

if nothings happened so far,leave it.9/10 earth straps increase any stray current as it give the current even better return to earth.

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#40 Tiny

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:03 PM

That was the thought that just ran though my mind as i was typing that!

I was thinking at the time that the earth strap would dissipate any current rather than cause electrolysis at the other points of contact or if it was completely insulated altogether?

Curious now! My brain isn't working at the moment, but will have to think more about this!

Cheers.

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#41 REDA9X

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:33 PM

I only run inhibitor, I use NULON as it doesn't contail glycol. Gycol goes a bit funny sitting still after a while and clogs up the system

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#42 _LJ355_

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 06:41 PM

Best way to stop stray current is rubber mount your radiator

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#43 Tiny

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 06:43 PM

Lj355: Doesnt the water itself conduct the current if there is stray current anywhere? That's why i fetter the earthing strap so that any current fromt eh water can pass back to earth.

Cheers!

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#44 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:47 PM

If there was stray current in the coolant, then in theory it should earth out through the head/s and/or block.

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#45 TerrA LX

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:38 PM

i assume distilled water would be the least likely to conduct as it is pure.

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#46 _1uzbt1_

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:52 PM

stray current is lack of a decent earth somewhere in the electrical system(even static can cause this)so it uses the coolant asthe earth,casing to ground.Now the way i see it (and have tested a few times,)is that if you earth from rad to body/.battery,any possible current running though will increase as theres an even easier way to ground.

Me and the boys at work have spent countless hours stewing on this subject with no answer,so if any one got any info that will be good.Imaging telling a customer that the new rad you have just fitted may fail because they have this exact problem,and no-one has a answer.

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#47 REDA9X

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Posted 12 April 2007 - 10:04 PM

One of the guys at work had this issue on a high scale. He replaced the radiator and within days it was leaking. The guy replaced it for him, but again it leaked. After 5 repairs the radiator repair shop discovered the car was an ex police car and some of the police equipment had been removed. The wires had been cut and not taped up. It was earthing out against the car body, somehow causing a current in the radiator and burning little holes in the core. After the wiring was removed, he had no more issues. I thought it was odd when he told me about apparently it appears to be true.

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#48 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 01:42 PM

i assume distilled water would be the least likely to conduct as it is pure.

Unless you replace all the hoses and hot tank the block and head/s, it won't stay pure for very long. It will just wash out all the shit in the system.

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#49 _devilsadvocate_

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:06 PM

This thread has been hijacked, perhaps a new thread on corrosion in radiators could be started?

Detailed info on what is going on with 'stray currents" seems a bit thin on the ground. My take is that the "normal" galvanic reaction that occurs between the different metal in the radiator and the engine block via the coolant is accelerated by slightly different earth potentials created by other items that are either earthed to the engine block or radiator supports.
Anyway, what you can all read about on the net is to measure the voltage between the coolant and the -ve post of the battery. I got readings of 111mV in my brass/copper rad. However, I got no difference between block and radiator body, indicating the coolant had charge. Supposedly readings of 0.3V or higher indicate problems. The rest of the test is to run the motor and all electrical devices to see that this reading doesnt increase, it didnt change on mine. If it does, 1st point of action is to attend to the earth of the offending item, improve it , put it somewhere else etc.
Depending on your tap water(melb quality is good), pouring distilled water into you rad would be a waste, it would quickly have many more levels of impurities floating around than tap water, even into a brand new engine. For other areas where you can taste the chlorine, perhaps not so good. Let the water sit for a few days to let the chlorine get out.

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#50 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:20 PM

Depending on your tap water(melb quality is good), pouring distilled water into you rad would be a waste, it would quickly have many more levels of impurities floating around than tap water, even into a brand new engine. For other areas where you can taste the chlorine, perhaps not so good. Let the water sit for a few days to let the chlorine get out.

So how does this happen? Does it settle or something?