Aussie Desert Coolers
#26 _jklumpp_
Posted 26 March 2007 - 01:47 PM
I installed mine a few weeks back now - a 3 core, triple pass.
Before installing, the temp was on the red within about 15min of running.
With the desert cooler in, temp is about 1/4 gauge (80deg C) even after over an hour.... traffic doesn't evenh seem to effect it.
Granted, I've probably on done 100-150km with it in, but so far I'm impressed.
Only problem fitting was that the brackets don't come drilled (to allow you to install at your prefered height), and was slightly narrower than original radiator, meaning mounting holes were close to the edge, and there is no tabs on the side of the radiator to hold the overflow hose as per original... neither really a drama.
So so far, I'm a believer & a supporter!
#27 _LH SL/R 5000_
Posted 26 March 2007 - 05:08 PM
#28
Posted 09 April 2007 - 07:16 PM
This is correct.The pressure required to produce the same flow is 64 times greater, all things being equal in a equivalent sized triple pass to a single pass.
A standard 308 water pump has its work cut out for it. They aren't the best design and efficiency is borderline already. To create the pressure required to force water through the triple pass radiator will incur cavitation much earlier. The triple flow might be OK for a cruiser but I would never use one in a performance application.
JMHO
#29 _1QUICK LJ_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 01:31 AM
heppy i would almost garantee it would be a water pump issue make sure its not a pressed tin impeller. a cast impeller 5litre VT pump would be the go.no it's aint the head gaskets, its a brand new motor 60 thou over 308
#30 _P51_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 12:09 PM
For aluminium you should only use a Glycol based coolant.
After you have the radiator installed in your car turn everything(radio, air-con, lights etc..) on with the motor running and check for "stray current".
All this means is you need to have all your ancillary items properly earthed or electrolosis/ corrosion could occour and can cause leaks quicker than you would think???
Cheers justin...............
#31
Posted 10 April 2007 - 10:31 PM
Play nice in the sandpit EVERYONE!
#32
Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:15 PM
What part does antifreeze play in protection of alloy radiators?For aluminium you should only use a Glycol based coolant.
Cheers justin...............
#33 _CHOPPER_
Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:28 PM
#34
Posted 10 April 2007 - 11:35 PM
do you know what types i should stay away from?
#35 _CHOPPER_
Posted 11 April 2007 - 09:32 AM
#36
Posted 11 April 2007 - 04:11 PM
Yes and YES.Anyone used a PWR radiator? if so do you think they are worth the money.
2 core, 1" tubes with "turbulators" chev pattern into HQ with auto trans cooler in bottom tank ( never used) ALLOY.
Had it many years now and has never given any troubles and also has done its job WELL!
I use HOLDEN genuine coolant, and used to use it straight, but will now go back to mixing it as per the bottle's insturctions.
Cheers.
#37
Posted 12 April 2007 - 01:26 PM
Some forms of glycol can also assist corrosion. For me, i would run straight inhibitor as it is specifically designed to protect against corrosion.
#38
Posted 12 April 2007 - 04:46 PM
I wonder if i did the right thing?
#39 _1uzbt1_
Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:01 PM
#40
Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:03 PM
I was thinking at the time that the earth strap would dissipate any current rather than cause electrolysis at the other points of contact or if it was completely insulated altogether?
Curious now! My brain isn't working at the moment, but will have to think more about this!
Cheers.
#41
Posted 12 April 2007 - 05:33 PM
#42 _LJ355_
Posted 12 April 2007 - 06:41 PM
#43
Posted 12 April 2007 - 06:43 PM
Cheers!
#44 _CHOPPER_
Posted 12 April 2007 - 07:47 PM
#45
Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:38 PM
#46 _1uzbt1_
Posted 12 April 2007 - 08:52 PM
Me and the boys at work have spent countless hours stewing on this subject with no answer,so if any one got any info that will be good.Imaging telling a customer that the new rad you have just fitted may fail because they have this exact problem,and no-one has a answer.
#47
Posted 12 April 2007 - 10:04 PM
#48 _CHOPPER_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 01:42 PM
Unless you replace all the hoses and hot tank the block and head/s, it won't stay pure for very long. It will just wash out all the shit in the system.i assume distilled water would be the least likely to conduct as it is pure.
#49 _devilsadvocate_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:06 PM
Detailed info on what is going on with 'stray currents" seems a bit thin on the ground. My take is that the "normal" galvanic reaction that occurs between the different metal in the radiator and the engine block via the coolant is accelerated by slightly different earth potentials created by other items that are either earthed to the engine block or radiator supports.
Anyway, what you can all read about on the net is to measure the voltage between the coolant and the -ve post of the battery. I got readings of 111mV in my brass/copper rad. However, I got no difference between block and radiator body, indicating the coolant had charge. Supposedly readings of 0.3V or higher indicate problems. The rest of the test is to run the motor and all electrical devices to see that this reading doesnt increase, it didnt change on mine. If it does, 1st point of action is to attend to the earth of the offending item, improve it , put it somewhere else etc.
Depending on your tap water(melb quality is good), pouring distilled water into you rad would be a waste, it would quickly have many more levels of impurities floating around than tap water, even into a brand new engine. For other areas where you can taste the chlorine, perhaps not so good. Let the water sit for a few days to let the chlorine get out.
#50 _CHOPPER_
Posted 13 April 2007 - 02:20 PM
So how does this happen? Does it settle or something?Depending on your tap water(melb quality is good), pouring distilled water into you rad would be a waste, it would quickly have many more levels of impurities floating around than tap water, even into a brand new engine. For other areas where you can taste the chlorine, perhaps not so good. Let the water sit for a few days to let the chlorine get out.
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