$30 and you can run it on non ecu cars aswell.
AU Falcon Thermo Fans
Started by
_heppy_ss_76_
, Mar 10 2007 05:42 PM
44 replies to this topic
#27
_tj81_
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Posted 22 March 2007 - 08:56 PM
Ive built this kit, and its a piece of cake, and it does work.
Makes things much easier on cars with ECU's....and yes they do work on cars without an ECU BUT.....
You need to have a compatible temperature sender.
I wanted to use it to switch on AU Thermos on my 4.2L GQ Patrol, the issue i have is that the temp sender does not output a voltage, only the resistance changes, hence a voltage switch is useless and will not work.
So if thinking of using this kit, make sure first that your temperature sender uses a voltage as its output, and that voltage is within the accepted input of the kit. (at a guess the sender would require two connectors/terminals)
Makes things much easier on cars with ECU's....and yes they do work on cars without an ECU BUT.....
You need to have a compatible temperature sender.
I wanted to use it to switch on AU Thermos on my 4.2L GQ Patrol, the issue i have is that the temp sender does not output a voltage, only the resistance changes, hence a voltage switch is useless and will not work.
So if thinking of using this kit, make sure first that your temperature sender uses a voltage as its output, and that voltage is within the accepted input of the kit. (at a guess the sender would require two connectors/terminals)
Edited by tj81, 22 March 2007 - 08:58 PM.
#28
rodomo
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Posted 22 March 2007 - 10:42 PM
I used the switch that matched the Magna fans I fitted to the Rangie.^^^^^looks good,or,get a sender of required temp soldered in the radiator or get a sender soldered into a peice of brass pipe and slice it into your top hose.All good reliable ways of switching fans besides those poxy davies craig junk.Do they make any thing good??
On a Magna the switch is mounted low so makes me think it's a low temp switch.
It also made sense to me that the fans would run even if the water level had dropped. Some fans on some cars won't work if the switch is mounted high and the water level drops.
I told the Rad. bloke where I wanted it soldered into the tank and then, like a fool
, let him talk me out of it and he soldered it in higher.Now the fans run as soon as the thermostat opens and cycle too often.
I have spoken to him about it and he will fix it. I just have to get off my backside and pull it out again.
Edited by rodomo, 22 March 2007 - 10:43 PM.
#29
_1uzbt1_
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:23 AM
^^^^Sounds like you need a expansion tank/overflow bottle.Does yours just pump excess water on the ground??Put a overflow bottle in(coke bottle if ya cheap)and a recoverey cap and that will keep the sender always submersed in water,unless theirs a leak of course.
Magna senders are really low in temp.something like 55c on 45c off,so no wonder they are consatley running and are designed for the bottom tank of a radiator.
Magna senders are really low in temp.something like 55c on 45c off,so no wonder they are consatley running and are designed for the bottom tank of a radiator.
#30
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 01:24 PM
#31
rodomo
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 04:29 PM
No I dont have a water usage problem and it has an expansion tank. It doesn't overheat, it just takes forever to warm up because the fan switch is too high up the tank.^^^^Sounds like you need a expansion tank/overflow bottle.Does yours just pump excess water on the ground??Put a overflow bottle in(coke bottle if ya cheap)and a recoverey cap and that will keep the sender always submersed in water,unless theirs a leak of course.
Magna senders are really low in temp.something like 55c on 45c off,so no wonder they are consatley running and are designed for the bottom tank of a radiator.
#32
_brett_32i_
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:13 PM
im pretty sure the std torana sensor will be fine....Ive built this kit, and its a piece of cake, and it does work.
Makes things much easier on cars with ECU's....and yes they do work on cars without an ECU BUT.....
You need to have a compatible temperature sender.)
when engine is cold, voltage on the green wire to gauge is high, lets say 10 volts.
as engine warms up and sender falls to ground, that voltage will diminish.
so the kit can be wired up to trigger on a falling voltage.
#33
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 06:53 PM
let us know how you go^, if its standard electronics logic stuff....it will only work in the 0-5V range. Are you doing it with a normal sensor.....or as the 32i in your name suggests with a fuel injected ecu controlled motor?
#34
RIM-010
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Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:06 PM
DA, Brett has an RB30 UC Hatch...
Tim
Tim
#35
_brett_32i_
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Posted 24 March 2007 - 06:15 PM
incorrect devil. input range is 0 to 16 volts.
reg sets rails at 8 volts and then the input is split in half with resistors so you do a compare against the rails.
kit was a piece of piss to assemble, just need to put it in the car now.
my user name means nothing, its just what i had when i signed up to hotmail... bret is my name, 32 was garry hocking's number, and i is the start of my last name. thats the best i could come up with.
sensor is the one that came in the RB30, however, it functions perfectly with the std torana gauge.
reg sets rails at 8 volts and then the input is split in half with resistors so you do a compare against the rails.
kit was a piece of piss to assemble, just need to put it in the car now.
my user name means nothing, its just what i had when i signed up to hotmail... bret is my name, 32 was garry hocking's number, and i is the start of my last name. thats the best i could come up with.
sensor is the one that came in the RB30, however, it functions perfectly with the std torana gauge.
#37
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Posted 24 March 2007 - 06:29 PM
^ Woops, sorry. Someone else has an RB30 UC Hatch, I think...
Tim
Tim
#38
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 24 March 2007 - 07:10 PM
Ummh.....Incorrect? I was posing the quest/ asking for verification(if its standard electronics logic stuff....)not stating a point of fact regarding the device which I have no 1st hand knowledge of.......as the article you provided a link suggested that only ecu voltages of 0-5v would be workable.........(small point).incorrect devil. input range is 0 to 16 volts.
Anyway, thanks for verifying the input range should be able to work with the standard gauge and sensor.
#39
_brett_32i_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 05:58 PM
[quote name='devilsadvocate' date='Mar 24 2007, 07:10 PM'] [/QUOTE]
Ummh.....Incorrect?
to my eyes this looks like a statement "if its standard electronics logic stuff....it will only work in the 0-5V range."
well, a comparator is std electronics logic stuff.
[/quote]
well there was a couple of posts by you in this thread that tend to suggest that you know whats going on.
if you are asking a question or wanting clarification, then put a question mark on the end?
Here you did ask a question and then followed it up with an incorrect statement."^AU fan 7amps? only if there is serious problems with the connections. "
Operating current was verified by 2 independent members.
Ummh.....Incorrect?
to my eyes this looks like a statement "if its standard electronics logic stuff....it will only work in the 0-5V range."
well, a comparator is std electronics logic stuff.
[/quote]
well there was a couple of posts by you in this thread that tend to suggest that you know whats going on.
if you are asking a question or wanting clarification, then put a question mark on the end?
Here you did ask a question and then followed it up with an incorrect statement."^AU fan 7amps? only if there is serious problems with the connections. "
Operating current was verified by 2 independent members.
#40
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 06:26 PM
Ok, Brett.....Ill eat humble pie on the falcon fans. I anticipated at least 13-15A, but my tests today, did show greater than 7A. Tested each of the two EL fans I have and got 9.5A at 12V, off course with the engine running and alternator output at 14V that would extrapolate to 11.8A. I couldnt actually test with the engine running as I was using the method of voltage drop across the battery to determine the current.....as well as not having anything other than a cheap multimeter that has a 10A DC rating and are notoriously inaccurate for reading the current by putting them in series with the load.
For comparison purposes, I have quite a collection of electric fans. I have the orginal Preslite motors that were fitted with Craig Davies plastic blades that draw ~7A and dont move much air at all. I also have the ancient slim line Davies Craig motors attached to the same plastic blades that draw ~11A at 12V. Interestingly just holding these in my hand while I was testing the DC 11A motor seemed to blow just as much(and provide much the same reactive force) as the EL fans.....
For comparison purposes, I have quite a collection of electric fans. I have the orginal Preslite motors that were fitted with Craig Davies plastic blades that draw ~7A and dont move much air at all. I also have the ancient slim line Davies Craig motors attached to the same plastic blades that draw ~11A at 12V. Interestingly just holding these in my hand while I was testing the DC 11A motor seemed to blow just as much(and provide much the same reactive force) as the EL fans.....
Edited by devilsadvocate, 25 March 2007 - 06:27 PM.
#41
_MYLJ_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 07:31 PM
I thought the conversation and amperages being discussed where relating to AU thermo fans not EL , so are you saying EL and AU fans have the motors?Tested each of the two EL fans I have ..........
#42
_brett_32i_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 07:47 PM
mine are au?? (the good looking ones) 2 fans, single winding each one.
i think the el's were variable speed? and i dont know if they did it with multiple windings in the motor or a remote mounted controller.
so maybe a difference in operating current there?
i use a fluke 873 and expect it to be reliably accurate.
i think the el's were variable speed? and i dont know if they did it with multiple windings in the motor or a remote mounted controller.
so maybe a difference in operating current there?
i use a fluke 873 and expect it to be reliably accurate.
#43
_76S.L.R_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 07:49 PM
Well as some of you guys may know I have the Au fans in the S.L.R, itys definately worthwhile doing but many had said the fans will drop right in place and others said you need to slightly grind the siderails?. I had to take of about 3mm each side on the siderails and then they went in but its tight, I have the fan sender switch put into the top tank of the radiator. My fans dont come on until my temp gauge is reading 110 C??!! I dont know if my temp gauge is reading incorrectly or my thermostat is faulty?, I was told to fit a 160 degree thermostat( cant remember whats in it now?.
I am pretty sure the Fan Sender put in was an 80 degree one( from memory?) they work well but donr come on till it gets over 100?..............
I am pretty sure the Fan Sender put in was an 80 degree one( from memory?) they work well but donr come on till it gets over 100?..............
#44
_devilsadvocate_
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Posted 25 March 2007 - 09:01 PM
Can only suggest you establish what the temperatures actually are b4 going any further. Haven't heard any good logic as to why running a 160F thermostat in a car designed for 180-190F is a good idea!
#45
_brett_32i_
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Posted 26 March 2007 - 10:14 AM
a mate has a sweet 'stang that had over heating problems (he thought).
bought a new radiator, hoses, heater core, thermostat, flush, thermos etc.... still cooked.
took it to a mechanic who ran his temp gauge over it and found he had a crook gauge. haha
bought a new radiator, hoses, heater core, thermostat, flush, thermos etc.... still cooked.
took it to a mechanic who ran his temp gauge over it and found he had a crook gauge. haha
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