65 replies to this topic

[Racehatch]

Hi Hazza,

I race an LH Sedan (Improved Production), it really will depend on whether you are running a street style tyre or slicks. My class rules dicate I have to run a Yokahama ADVAN tyre so I'm running 1280lbs front springs, and 450lbs rears. Be carefull with how heavy you go on the rear springs, too much and you'll notice it will have trouble putting power down coming out of corners.....which is okay if your a drifter...haha

hope this helps,

cheers,

Sam

[micklx]

Rather than lifting the car to clear the tyres, maybe you need to look at tyre size, wheel arch mods, wheel offset etc

[Racehatch]

Sorry I didnt really answer your question...

Re the scrubbing, what tyre/wheel combo are you running? Flares? As Mick mentioned, certainly sounds like a tyre/guard clearance issue.. Just making the suspension harder wont help from a handling point of view.

Re my car, yeah its pretty stiff, I actually wasnt aware how heavy they were, they were on the car when I got it, got them rate tested the other day and was surprised. It actually dosnt feel that bad on the track, certainly wouldnt want to be any lower, and thats not running on slicks! You need to run a decent shock with a spring of that weight though.

[355LX]

What sort of shock are you running with that spring, and where did the spring come from. I have tried to source an Eibach but have been told it's not available for LX torana.....

Dave

[Litre8]

1280lb!!!! I thought my 840lb Lovells front springs were hard..........

[Racehatch]

With regard to the suspension setup, its based on information given to me by a chap called Rick Kemp from Toperformance (in melb) This guy has been responsible for suspension setup in a number of racing Torana's, so I thought it was worth going with what he said. He recommended the spring rates and shocks that I run, and it certainly has made a big difference to the way my car handles, which has definately helped my lap times!

The shocks are as follows:

front - koni pt number - 82-5074 (designed for a Pajero!)
rear - koni pt number - 80-2299

Apparently the valving on that particular front shock will suit the spring rate I specified, and to go 1 click off the softest setting. The rear shocks will need to be revalved to go with the heavier rear spring though. I get all my springs made at Industrial Springs here in Adelaide, I just give them the dimensions of the spring (installed height and desired rate) and they make them.

The other thing to take into account is that I run a light front sway bar. Its the Kmac 24mm adjustable front mount type and I run NO rear bar at all. I've tried it with and without, and without suits my driving style the best. The fact that it runs a full spool 3.8 ratio diff also plays a part in how it feels (handling wise) - in racing conditions.

I'm not one to hide what I'm running, as far as I'm concerned if its working and been of benefit to me, then why not share the info..

Somthing else to consider, different ppl like the car to handle different ways, or should I say, feel more comfortable with the car setup a certain way... Some like it to push, others like it more pointy... Really you just have to get out there with a base line setup, if you dont like it, make adjustments ONE AT A TIME, try it out and record the results. THERE IS NO ONE SETUP THAT SUITS EVERYONE!

hope this helps!

cheers,

Sam

Edited by 350LH, 13 April 2007 - 01:28 AM.

[Litre8]

But then you may never know how good it could be?

[355LX]

How would you describe the setup you currently have, pointy, likes to push or oversteer?

Pajero shocks!! Do they bolt in just like the standard ones.

Thanks,

Dave

[Racehatch]

Hey there Dave,

With setup the way it is, I'd describe it as more of a pusher than a pointer.. The locked diff and lack of rear bar play a big part in this. The harder you drive it though the less it pushes. I found that with a rear bar the car was more of an oversteerer which Im not a big fan of, esp as high speeds under accel out of corners. Oversteer is cool, dont get me wrong, its just that I'd rather have the choice of inducing it..rather than having it snapping on when I least expect/want it. I may have another go with the rear bar later on this year, and play more with the spring rates, and wheel alignment.

The other big factor is tyres, in our class we have been restriced to a certain tyre make and size (225/60/15 for the Torana), basically a gumball of a tyre.... With the sidewall so big, the tyre is doing part of the suspension work, this also give you something else to consider re setup. Recent rule changes allow us to go to a 225/50/16, and I suspect we might have to make some adjustments to allow for this.

With those front shocks, you will need to make the hole in the lower control arm larger so the shock will fit through, and remove the dust cover from the shock. Nothing too drastic though.

When I run through some different setups, I'll post the results just for comparison to my original setup.

cheers,

Sam

[Litre8]

I was told many years ago (not sure if it was by Les Small or his workshop manager) that Grice used to run very hard springs and small sway bars while Brock used to run relatively soft springs and large sway bars.

It does come down ultimately to preferred style and experimentation is probably the only way to find what works best for you.

[355LX]

Thanks for the great info, very informative. Still tossing up which way to go with my setup, front springs I think will have to be made, which sucks considering I had some 1000lb springs made but were not the ride height I specified

Dave

[A9X]

Do you still have them Dave?

Where they too high or too low.

Welby

[Racehatch]

If you are getting your springs made up, measure your installed height first, this will ensure that you get the ride height right.

The easiest way to do this is, firstly to jack the car up and put it on stands with the front and rear suspension unweighted. Remove the springs and reassemble the suspension. Put the wheel on and place a jack under the ball joint (or diff centre) and jack it up until the wheel is sitting at the desired position relative to the gaurd. You can then remove the wheel, and use a tape to measure the distance from the top of the spring seat to the recess in the lower control arm.This will be your installed height. Give this measurement to the spring maker along with the rate that you want.

[355LX]

Great info again, thanks!! Welby, they were too low, by about an inch. Have a mate who wants to try them in his racecar now, so I'll be getting another set made. Because I have the Hadfield drop spindles (regretful purchase), I am having these drama's.

Dave

[Toranamat69]

Which CRS spindles do you have? I have been waiting for over 3 months for a set from them.

[355LX]

Matt I have the Torana 9degree kpi to suit commodore brakes with 2inch drop spindles. I also have fitted those Edelbrock upper arms, thanks again for the tip on those!!

350LH roughly what price do the Adelaide springs cost to get made?

Dave

[Racehatch]

Hey Dave,

From memory $200 -$250 for a custom pair of front springs (from memory) here is the link to their website Industrial Springs

cheers,

Sam

Edited by 350LH, 16 April 2007 - 09:45 PM.