41 replies to this topic

[dattoman]

I was only working on Balljoints as I have the part #'s for those
Unsure if any yank cars used the same tierods
They might be more difficult to find a match

[Toranamat69]

Rob,
I am already a loctite Nazi - it goes everywhere

Greg,

I have been looking around for weeks trying to match up which Monoball balljoints to buy and I seem to be running in circles - so much conflicting info around.

Maybe we should start a new thread on this?

I am ready to buy as soon as I can work out which ones are the best option.

M@

[dattoman]

http://www.howeracin...-BallJoints.htm

[Struggler]

I have used the WASP Brand before and never had a drama, but then again I don't usually hold onto a car for long enough for suspension components to wear out !!

[fuzzypumper]

Ive had nylock type ball joints before and for me i dont believe they are an issue as long as they are tightened. The one thing i did hate was removing them because the bolt would always started to spin when loosening the nut under the friction of the nylock.
However the worst part is these ball joints didnt last long.
So this time what do I put in?

I have a set KOK ball joints with grease nipples +nylock nuts(ebay) and a set of Powermax sealed +nylock(autobarn) to put in new car. How long will they last?
All I know Ive had a set off castleated+greasnipple type in the old car for 18years purchased from Autobarn and there still ok.

I would like find quality ball joints with grease nipples and castleated nuts again.
Anyone?

[Toranamat69]

You can get the Moog stuff from just about any US suspension parts supplier if you do an internet search.

You can also get them locally from these guys.
https://www.american...susfbj&session=

I have just bought a pair of part number 40-3120 from these guys below.

http://www.ubmachine...balljoints.html

They fit the Torana lower control arms and stub axles nicely and allow you to shorten the balljoint height by 5mm or lenghten it by approx 12mm from standard and lots of settings in between.

I am now sort of leaning toward the ones from Howe racing that Datto listed a few pages ago where you actually replace the ball stud to adjust the length. They are a fair bit dearer but they have propper dust boots and a larger angle they can move through which I need for the upper arms. They have the same adjustment range and I can also get adjustable upper ones too.

As of yet, I havn't managed to find an adjustable monoball upper to fit directly onto the Torana setup. I have ones which will fit the stub axle, not the control arm though I am still looking.

P.S. No one has come up with any tech explanation of what makes a good and bad balljoint yet other than naming brands. Another one of those secret lost technologies.

M@

[fuzzypumper]

In my endevour to find a good ball joint i seem to have acquired a collection so I thought I would supply photos and some details.

1. KOK brand purchased on eBay.
-2 year warranty
-ISO9001, 4001, Certified factories
-Nyloc nuts
-Have grease nipples
-BJ55 Lower unit weight=597grams(without nut)
-BJ55 Lower unit rubber boot is thin and flexible
-BJ54 Upper unit weight=644grams(without nut) overengineered!
-BJ54 Upper unit rubber boot is thicker but isnt fastentened to joint. Infact it wont fit into upper arms hole. Rubber impeeds between ball joint and arm(see photo). If you removed boot and placed it underneath it would worked but grease would likely spew out. Also the nuts and bolts supplied dont seem to be high tensile( missing those 3 lines on the head).



2. PowerMax brand purchased from Autobarn.
-2 year warranty, Unlimited KMs
-Nyloc nuts
-Have grease nipples(depends where sourced)
-BJ55 Lower unit weight=593grams(without nut)
-BJ55 Lower unit rubber boot is thin like KOK but slightly more flexible.
The outer housing looks much like KOK but boots and pin look different.
However you may not get the same ball joint every time. Powermax, as many other suppliers do, source their parts from many manufacturers. I got one the that was competely different with no grease nipple last time.
Sorry didnt purchase Upper Powermax joints.



3. Premier brand purchased on eBay.
-2 year warranty
-Castleated Nuts + Split Pins
-Have grease nipples
-BJ55 Lower unit weight=600grams(without nut)
-BJ55 Lower unit rubber boot is thicker than both Powermax & KOK, durable but still flexible.
-BJ55 housing has vertical splines which i suspect may make them easier to press into lower arm.
-BJ54 Upper unit weight=485grams(without nut) and looks more like a WASP brand.
-BJ54 Upper unit rubber boot is thick & fastentened on both ends with blue clips.
-High Tensile nuts & Bolts.
I like these. I think im gonna put these ones in.



I have another set of lower ones still to arivve from ebay which also have castleated nuts and grease nipples.

Edited by fuzzypumper, 27 September 2007 - 08:08 PM.

[fuzzypumper]

ALSO,

REPCO,s TRW brand and BURSONS Roadsafe brand both looked like the 2 types available from AUTOBARN(Powermax) but had no grease nipples. Didnt purchase these.

[Toranamat69]

LH333,

The 40-3120 actually only come with the bottom nut which is a nylock, and no holes for split pins.

As mentioned above, nothing a small drill and a trip to the local fastener supplier couldn't fix.

M@