Get onto a moderator about the thread title (REDA9X, tinkers, dattoman, Tiny etc etc).
To make your signature yellow, copy this into the signature box -
[color=yellow]Location: Wollongong[/color$]
- Except remove the '$' out of the second bracket.
Good to see some progress on this project, sad to see you've been messed around by businesses. Like they say, if you want something done you have to do it yourself...
Tim
RB25DET in UC torana coupe
Started by
_studricho_
, Aug 03 2007 12:17 AM
367 replies to this topic
#51
RIM-010
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Posted 03 March 2008 - 01:47 PM
#52
_studricho_
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Posted 03 March 2008 - 03:31 PM
Thanks for that Rim, I've updated my sig and sent a PM to a mod. The statement in my sig makes you think.
#53
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Posted 04 March 2008 - 07:52 AM
Looks like its chugging along well mate!
I just hope you dont want to pull the wiring out in a big hurry! I dead set hate electrical tape, good when you need it, but when you have to pull it off in a months/years/ten years time it is sticky as f*ck and leave crap everywhere.
Shrink wrap is really cheap, even that spaghetti with some cable ties works nicely : )
looks good!
I just hope you dont want to pull the wiring out in a big hurry! I dead set hate electrical tape, good when you need it, but when you have to pull it off in a months/years/ten years time it is sticky as f*ck and leave crap everywhere.
Shrink wrap is really cheap, even that spaghetti with some cable ties works nicely : )
looks good!
#54
_studricho_
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Posted 04 March 2008 - 06:10 PM
Yeah, we ran out of the tubing stuff so electrical tape it was. The beauty of the way it's done is that it hides behind the glove box. 4 screws and out comes the glove box to gain access.
I used the plastic saddles that are pop riveted in and then a cable tie holds it on. I'll take some better pics and post it up cause even the guy at the electrical shop didn't know they are available until i pointed them out in his book.
They are awesome to hold anything you want, cables, brake lines of even fuel hoses. I'm sure many from here will be interested in some..
I used the plastic saddles that are pop riveted in and then a cable tie holds it on. I'll take some better pics and post it up cause even the guy at the electrical shop didn't know they are available until i pointed them out in his book.
They are awesome to hold anything you want, cables, brake lines of even fuel hoses. I'm sure many from here will be interested in some..
#55
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Posted 04 March 2008 - 08:52 PM
Very nice looking UC and a nice engine to boot! Keep taking your time and don't rush things, you'll regret it, especially after waiting for so long now.
Cheers,
Brett
Cheers,
Brett
#56
_studricho_
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Posted 05 March 2008 - 07:11 AM
You speaking from experience?Very nice looking UC and a nice engine to boot! Keep taking your time and don't rush things, you'll regret it, especially after waiting for so long now.
Cheers,
Brett
I remember when i repainted my first torana. I do a guard on a weekend, that's remove, paint stripped, rust proof, primer, then paint, then refit ready to drive again for monday.
I did most of the car this way and even panel was a different shade, different paint finishes as mu painting got better. it was a real working/driving process.
I will put heaps of stuff back on this car that I'm not happy with, but i have spares and i can get re-done and swapped over down the track. Stuff like door trims/inner handles and silly stuff like that. The major pain in the butt stuff will be done once, like clutch, timing belt, rear main seal, headlining are all done.
Car goes in today, fingers crossed.
#57
Heath
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Posted 05 March 2008 - 11:54 AM
If I could re-live the last two years of my life I would have done my Torana that way. I'm sure you learnt a lot from it and managed to have a Torana on the road the whole timeI remember when i repainted my first torana. I do a guard on a weekend, that's remove, paint stripped, rust proof, primer, then paint, then refit ready to drive again for monday.
I did most of the car this way and even panel was a different shade, different paint finishes as mu painting got better. it was a real working/driving process.
#58
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Posted 05 March 2008 - 12:43 PM
Yeah must of the time it was on the road i either got done by cops for something or a tow truck was towing it home after another blown motor/diff or gearbox. I got to know the tow truck driver on a first name basis.If I could re-live the last two years of my life I would have done my Torana that way. I'm sure you learnt a lot from it and managed to have a Torana on the road the whole timeI remember when i repainted my first torana. I do a guard on a weekend, that's remove, paint stripped, rust proof, primer, then paint, then refit ready to drive again for monday.
I did most of the car this way and even panel was a different shade, different paint finishes as mu painting got better. it was a real working/driving process.
Great news!
My car is at Pro Fab as of now!
#59
_studricho_
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Posted 30 March 2008 - 06:54 AM
Smallish up date nothing to dramatic. the car is still at pro fab getting some work done, I'll get some pics next week.
I new plates came in and are now on hold.
UC25RB in vivid blue. Looks awesome and not to wanky.
I new plates came in and are now on hold.
UC25RB in vivid blue. Looks awesome and not to wanky.
#60
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 09:27 PM
It's sad to admit i just went through this whole thread to relive the build so far. i can't do much while car is in shop. My car got bumped out of line for some easy work to be done to a LX 4door. Turns out that they had to wait 4 weeks for parts. 
I've been very busy playing with bikes and working flat out doing casual work. I have bought too many bikes and I need to sell a few. problem is that all need some work to make them sale worthy.
I did pick up a UC rack and centre console for next to nothing. I found an old school mate that has heaps of parts for torana's. I also found some torana's sitting un-noticed in people's front yards during working around a certain area. I've made some offers, but i just have to wait.
I'll take some pictures of the car on the hoist for all you to see.
I've been very busy playing with bikes and working flat out doing casual work. I have bought too many bikes and I need to sell a few. problem is that all need some work to make them sale worthy.
I did pick up a UC rack and centre console for next to nothing. I found an old school mate that has heaps of parts for torana's. I also found some torana's sitting un-noticed in people's front yards during working around a certain area. I've made some offers, but i just have to wait.
I'll take some pictures of the car on the hoist for all you to see.
#61
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Posted 21 April 2008 - 07:37 AM
was the lx 4 door the 3/4 chassis one with the twin turbo lsx engine? if so,it was my mates car...
#62
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Posted 21 April 2008 - 06:25 PM
Was that the gold/brown one that was built from scratch? If so i got to see that car transform over the months it was there. It's a great thing to have him so close. I get to see some great cars being built, mostly torana's.
This wasn't the car that pushed mine out of the way, it was another LX 4 door.
This wasn't the car that pushed mine out of the way, it was another LX 4 door.
#63
_studricho_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 07:35 PM
Some progress is happening very quick on my car. They have cut out the tunnel and stripped out the whole running gear.
Basically all the weak points of the chassis will be strengthen.
The pictures.....
All running gear stripped out and ready for work to begin.
Engine bay shot.
The tunnel work being done to accept the larger R33 5 speed.
The brackets that hold the diff arms to the body getting prepared ready for welding.
This diff really needs some attention. Can anyone guess what it is?
By the way, I'm after some 9 inch diff parts if you have any, PM me.
Motor/gearbox and cross member all pulled out in one unit. Much easier than from top.
That's about it for now. I can really start to see the car on the road sooner than later.
Basically all the weak points of the chassis will be strengthen.
The pictures.....
All running gear stripped out and ready for work to begin.
Engine bay shot.
The tunnel work being done to accept the larger R33 5 speed.
The brackets that hold the diff arms to the body getting prepared ready for welding.
This diff really needs some attention. Can anyone guess what it is?
By the way, I'm after some 9 inch diff parts if you have any, PM me.
Motor/gearbox and cross member all pulled out in one unit. Much easier than from top.
That's about it for now. I can really start to see the car on the road sooner than later.
#64
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 08:27 PM
coming along nicely! i wanna see this bad boy on the road!
Ben
Ben
#65
_studricho_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:30 PM
You and me both. I want to take my son to his first day of school next year in it, that's the motivator for me at the moment. That and it's so bloody cold on the bike.coming along nicely! i wanna see this bad boy on the road!
Ben
Heaps of people have been asking me what i plan to do with the car...umm drive it as a daily if needed. Some people are strange.
If i get it done by December, then I'm off to Melbourne in the Torana..can't wait
#66
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 09:35 PM
mate your son will be talk of the school! everyone will want a ride with ya haha i know i would!
if you dont mine me asking how much have you spent on the body? as one day i wouldnt mine rebuilding mine to the same standard!
Ben
if you dont mine me asking how much have you spent on the body? as one day i wouldnt mine rebuilding mine to the same standard!
Totally agree! whats the point in building a car that stays in the shed?Heaps of people have been asking me what i plan to do with the car...umm drive it as a daily if needed.
Ben
#67
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:34 PM
No, not at all. I save heaps by stripping the car myself with help from a few friends.
I borrow a monza sandblaster and bought some good sand grit and paint stripping.
About $150 worth of sand (give or take)
$80 for stripper (paint, get your hand of your penis)
$40 for etch primer
$2,400 for all the repairs
$3,100 for all the painting.
So about $5,770 on the body work/paint work. I think the motor conversion will end up being around the $4k mark all don. Not sure about all the fab work...
So much to do, so little money and time.
I borrow a monza sandblaster and bought some good sand grit and paint stripping.
About $150 worth of sand (give or take)
$80 for stripper (paint, get your hand of your penis)
$40 for etch primer
$2,400 for all the repairs
$3,100 for all the painting.
So about $5,770 on the body work/paint work. I think the motor conversion will end up being around the $4k mark all don. Not sure about all the fab work...
So much to do, so little money and time.
#68
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:39 PM
wow thats impressive!
will be good once its all done and you can take it for a burn!
will be good once its all done and you can take it for a burn!
#69
_studricho_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:55 PM
The guy from the fab shop wanted to know how far i wanted to go with doing stuff like the diff, boxing in the controls and new bushes.
I asked what difference would it make. he asked me if i wanted to go in a straight line, i said that would be nice.
I asked what difference would it make. he asked me if i wanted to go in a straight line, i said that would be nice.
#70
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 30 April 2008 - 10:59 PM
haha you'd hope so!
what wheels you going to run on it?
also where are you mounting all the fuel system? e.g. surge tank etc
Ben
you'd hope so!what wheels you going to run on it?
also where are you mounting all the fuel system? e.g. surge tank etc
Ben
#71
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Posted 01 May 2008 - 09:28 AM
Very nice mate! This thing is gonna be fantastic! UC Hatches can look SHIT HOT! when they are done right...
Hopefully its done by December so you can drive it to melbourne! I wanna see it!
Hopefully its done by December so you can drive it to melbourne! I wanna see it!
#72
_studricho_
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Posted 01 May 2008 - 07:27 PM
The second last picture shows the diff from the back. Can you see the fuel pump? I made a bracket mounted using that same holes for the diff bump stop. that bracket holds the stock VL pump.haha
what wheels you going to run on it?
also where are you mounting all the fuel system? e.g. surge tank etc
Ben
I'm not running a surge tank for the time being, but i still have the VL internal pump to attach to the UC pick up unit. I have both units so, just have to fab something.
I'm starting to run out of money real quick, so only if it's reallly needed, it gets donw.
It's so hard not to replace everything. At least the underside of the car will have a nice coat of paint too. Even the panel beater loves my car. He can't believe how good the body is.
That's the advantage of picking a good car and looking after it for 17 years...
MRLXSS..Yes I'd love to catch up with other Torana nuts in melbourne. Maybe we could organize a meet up for a cruise/kebab?
Mind you it all depends on how this car comes together. It's coming together very quick at the moment. The diff is getting strip/degreased and painted in 2 pac gloss black.
I need to find a new or good centre soon. I leave it out or the time being.
#73
_studricho_
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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:13 PM
Some more progress on the torana project
The tunnel is in. Just needs hole for the gear stick now.
The hole for the clutch master cylinder has been cut and for the bolts . The interesting part is that the old clutch pedal was a pull cable type and the skyline is a push hydraulic type with a much shorter throw.
Here's the bad part. The 9 inch conversion was done so badly years ago that it needs some attention now.
The pinion centre is of by 7mm. Basically the diff was not sitting centre in the car.
The bearing housing is stuffed. The old ones will be cut off in place for brand new billet bearing housing. Better now, so I the future i can get some nice billet axle mode for it.
The diff, control arms, disc protector plates and the reaction flanges have all been sand blasted ready to paint.
Does anyone know how to fit a sway bar to the 9 inch in the UC? Do i need to weld brackets, If so I need to do it now.
The tunnel is in. Just needs hole for the gear stick now.
The hole for the clutch master cylinder has been cut and for the bolts . The interesting part is that the old clutch pedal was a pull cable type and the skyline is a push hydraulic type with a much shorter throw.
Here's the bad part. The 9 inch conversion was done so badly years ago that it needs some attention now.
The pinion centre is of by 7mm. Basically the diff was not sitting centre in the car.
The bearing housing is stuffed. The old ones will be cut off in place for brand new billet bearing housing. Better now, so I the future i can get some nice billet axle mode for it.
The diff, control arms, disc protector plates and the reaction flanges have all been sand blasted ready to paint.
Does anyone know how to fit a sway bar to the 9 inch in the UC? Do i need to weld brackets, If so I need to do it now.
#74
_UNVSM8_
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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:36 PM
theres always hurdles mate but its getting there 
#75
_studricho_
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Posted 05 May 2008 - 09:44 PM
The car has nothing do to it in the past 3 months and the last 4 days have left my head spinning. They are getting it do so quick, I'm lucky to get a word in.
I did print off a check list though. I'm starting to see this cat actually getting closer to being on the road.
I did print off a check list though. I'm starting to see this cat actually getting closer to being on the road.
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