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Lowering Tricks, Other Springs to use?

Started by MRLXSS , Oct 23 2007 02:36 PM

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66 replies to this topic

#26 _brett_32i_

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 12:19 PM

cool!
yeah if you can get a measure it would be great...

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#27 _brett_32i_

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Posted 16 November 2007 - 12:20 PM

oh, and are all camiras the same or do i need 'em from a specific model??

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#28 _HatchmanSS76_

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Posted 04 December 2007 - 10:55 AM

Good to see Camira's are good for something

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#29 holdenuc

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Posted 07 December 2007 - 08:32 PM

Rhys, if you ever need springs reset, Wodonga springworks did my front springs. When i lowered the rear of mine I got them to lower my fronts 1" to level it out again.
cheers

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#30 _brett_32i_

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 09:26 AM

i measured mine last night.

commodore std IRS no insulators = 285 centre to guard

camira with 2 insulators = 280 centre to guard

camira will be better for the drags, but irs will be used with one insulator other times.
will drop off irs spring tonight for testing.

need to lift the front now...

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#31 _JBM_

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Posted 11 December 2007 - 11:20 AM

When I got lowered springs for my VH the part no was the same to fit a Camira, cant remeber if it was front or back, std or low on the Camira.

James

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#32 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 13 December 2007 - 09:24 AM

On the topic of 'lowering tricks'....im having a bti of trouble with getting the fronts out...at the moment im driving round like a muzza with the ass dumped and not the front

lolol....its got king V8 lowered in the fronts which we put in but realised they were V8's, basically to get them in we just hamered the bottom A arm till the ball joint let go...but took agers n now wen we wanna put in 6 cyl lowered springs it wont budge!

Anyone got any tips to setting them free so that i can change em? Ive heard of ball joint breakers, but prefereably something where i dont have to spend any more money, we have been using a punch and a big metal mallot :<_<:

**oh yeh and not trying to hickack thread

...but i just think if someone know the best way it would be good to add in 'lowering tricks' thread

Edited by Brad1979UC, 13 December 2007 - 09:28 AM.

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#33 _brett_32i_

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 08:51 AM

hey brad,

can you measure the distance from the centere of rim to lip of guard.

i might swap some springs as i have a few low sets now and want to go higher.

[email protected]

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#34 MRLXSS

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 10:25 AM

Just whack the crap out of it with a hammer my friend!

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#35 originalglenn

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Posted 14 December 2007 - 08:40 PM

brad , if i understand your question you need to know how to break the taper on the ball joints?

dont whack it on the threaded bit

whack on the side to break the taper

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#36 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 15 December 2007 - 02:30 AM

yea im hitting it on the lower A arm just beside the ball joint...but yes, i have heard that they are tapered. So its just brute mallot-weilding force then?

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#37 rodomo

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Posted 15 December 2007 - 05:31 AM

No! Don't hit the control arm.

Jack the car up and put it on stands at the front.

Loosen the lower balljoint nut, 2 turns should be enough, but leave it on there.

Support one side of the stub with a hammer and hit the other side with another hammer. (Red arrows).

What this does in briefly distorts the tapered hole in the stub as you hit and the taper on the ball joint should let go.

Your spring is trying to push the lower control arm down at the same time, that is why you loosen the nut but leave it on.

Once the taper has let go, put you jack under the control arm under the ball joint and jack it up to compress the spring a little.

Now take the nut off and slowly let the jack down.

Good luck!

Posted Image

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#38 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 15 December 2007 - 04:16 PM

OHH! ....so knock it out of the taper, ill give that a shot, makes sense

....ohh n thanks alot for the diagram, it really whips the laamas ass! ill let ya know how it goes, mid week this week we'll give it another go.
Cheers,
brad

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#39 rodomo

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Posted 15 December 2007 - 06:30 PM

Have another read.
I don't think you get it.
You don't hit the ball joint.
You hit the sides of the stub where the ball joint's tapered pin goes through the hole in the stub.

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#40 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 08:40 PM

yea yea i understood....i realise its not a good idea to hit the ball joint. its the side of the stub that i hit?

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#41 rodomo

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Posted 16 December 2007 - 08:43 PM

Yes, support one side with a hammer head and hit the other side, kinda sandwich it.

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#42 makka

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 08:22 AM

or you could get a balljoint separator for about $10 from supercheap.... :tease:

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#43 MRLXSS

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 09:11 AM

^^ Then wheres the fun it hitting it with a hammer? ^^

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#44 makka

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 10:17 AM

you can get ball jount separators that you hit with a hammer!

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#45 Heath

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 12:48 PM

haha best of both worlds.

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#46 MRLXSS

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 12:53 PM

I like the satisfaction of doing it without the correct tool and thinking... "God I am a genious!" and "I just saved myself 10bucks!"

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#47 rodomo

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Posted 17 December 2007 - 06:19 PM

or you could get a balljoint separator for about $10 from supercheap....

Ball joint separators usually stuff the ball joint boot though.
O.K if you are replacing them I suppose.

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#48 _Brad1979UC_

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Posted 18 December 2007 - 06:18 PM

its one of those tools that i just neva thought existed...

....just like the spigot bush remover tool my old man pulled out of his ass when we were stumped for ideas on how to get the damn thing outta there!

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#49 _arsnic_apple_

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Posted 07 June 2010 - 02:37 PM

4 inches or so down on standard, I can measure the wheelarch to centre if you like
camira springs are not as soft as you would think, they are a bit soft at the start of the stroke but they stiffen up as they are progressive rate.