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Compounding Paint
Started by
_Yella-5000_
, Feb 26 2008 07:48 PM
39 replies to this topic
#26
MRLXSS
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Posted 11 March 2008 - 08:18 AM
Yeah, I might try the retarder stuff on a spare panel and see how it goes (Or someone elses car )...
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#27
MRLXSS
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Posted 12 March 2008 - 09:42 PM
I tried the Wet Look Wax today, and i STRONGLY recommend it! I will try and grab a pic of the car tomorrow!
I followed Pete's instructions and the paint work came out stunning! Looks like i paid 8k for a paint job!!! I am stoked!
I followed Pete's instructions and the paint work came out stunning! Looks like i paid 8k for a paint job!!! I am stoked!
#28
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 18 April 2008 - 11:39 PM
OK, sorted my problems out. Gave it another burl. This time started with 1200 grit wet & dry to cut through the texture/mild orange peel, before moving to 1500 and 2000. Came up a treat.
Thanks again for your advice Pete, looking a million bucks.
Moral of the story, let the sandpaper do the work.
Thanks again for your advice Pete, looking a million bucks.
Moral of the story, let the sandpaper do the work.
Edited by Yella SLuR, 18 April 2008 - 11:40 PM.
#29
_Big T_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 02:15 AM
Pat, is the above on the clear coat or colour coat?
#30
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 07:17 AM
Solid colour. When I've done clear previously we got the base coat flat (compounded) before applying a couple more coats of colour and a couple of clear (that was 50% clear & colour). With your clear, also take some time to allow the first coat to dry before the next coat (about 20 minutes or so). If your like me with painting, it is so tempting to just keep going coat over coat over coat, but it's not good.
#31
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 07:21 AM
Just having my first crack at metallic for little bro. Will keep you posted. I don't think he's got his filler flat enough, but anyways.
#32
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 06:23 PM
This morning's efforts. HQ door.
Little bro learns the frustration of painting highlighting all the defects in the panel.
Little bro learns the frustration of painting highlighting all the defects in the panel.
#33
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 19 April 2008 - 06:32 PM
Mr. Big T, when your clear coat went milky, it wasn't overspray was it? I noticed because I painted the door in two halves that I ended up with a line of overspray that looked milky. If your air was up too high, could produce the same effect. Try sand it with 1200 wet and dry and see if it is all the way through the clear.
#34
brocks72xu1
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 09:17 AM
it may also have been to cold aswell
#35
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 05:40 PM
Yup, but by sanding you'll work out if too cold (all the way through the clear), or overspray (surface blemish).
#36
brocks72xu1
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 07:28 PM
you will know if its because of being to cold because as it dries out
it will go milky looking causing you to paint it again,havent used arcylic since i was 1st year apprentice that was 17 years ago
it will go milky looking causing you to paint it again,havent used arcylic since i was 1st year apprentice that was 17 years ago
#37
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Posted 20 April 2008 - 10:21 PM
Yella and Brocks - The clear was stuffed all the way through. I tried just cutting back with 1200 but it didnt seem to do much. The time of day that I painted I reckon was the problem. Temp had dropped as the sun went down and humidity was around 80% (30mins after I painted anyway). I wish it was just overspray but as Brocks and others have mentioned I reckon it was just too cold and moist to paint.
I have since sanded back the clear and put another two coats of colour on. The colour has now been blocked back with 1200 and its flat (no orange peel) but not really shiney though. I can see light scratching/sanding marks in the finish but Im not sure if I should cut back with 1500-2000 before putting the clear on.
Before I put the clear on last time I had done as above but the clear that wasnt milky seemed to bring the colour up with no signs of sanding marks and nice and glossy. I figured I would just do the same this time around but now Im not too sure.
When you say "Solid Colour" Pat, does that mean no clear coat?
I have since sanded back the clear and put another two coats of colour on. The colour has now been blocked back with 1200 and its flat (no orange peel) but not really shiney though. I can see light scratching/sanding marks in the finish but Im not sure if I should cut back with 1500-2000 before putting the clear on.
Before I put the clear on last time I had done as above but the clear that wasnt milky seemed to bring the colour up with no signs of sanding marks and nice and glossy. I figured I would just do the same this time around but now Im not too sure.
When you say "Solid Colour" Pat, does that mean no clear coat?
#38
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 21 April 2008 - 03:59 PM
Yup, solid colour, no clear coat, although you can use clear over the top to give it extra depth, but there is no clear coat on the rest of the car. Prepsol and rag test.
Fair enough, I think you are right. Being near the coast I think you'll find the humidity really jumps up at dusk in addition to temperature drop, giving you plenty of dramas. As always, if I can save you some time.
1200 should be fine. If you go too fine, you won't have enough of a key for the top coats, particularly clear, although acrylic will meld into the lower layers anyway.
Happy painting. If Brock can add to this, then all well and good. Always happy to learn more and/or alternative techniques, although with painting, I find it's more a case of whatever works for you and your technique.
Fair enough, I think you are right. Being near the coast I think you'll find the humidity really jumps up at dusk in addition to temperature drop, giving you plenty of dramas. As always, if I can save you some time.
1200 should be fine. If you go too fine, you won't have enough of a key for the top coats, particularly clear, although acrylic will meld into the lower layers anyway.
Happy painting. If Brock can add to this, then all well and good. Always happy to learn more and/or alternative techniques, although with painting, I find it's more a case of whatever works for you and your technique.
#39
brocks72xu1
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Posted 21 April 2008 - 07:45 PM
thats what a painter calls blooming ,it was to cold,humidity is a big problem
awell here,if you are painting outside (not in a heated booth) u are better
to make sure that it hasnt rained in the last three days and make sure you start around lunch time as its the hotest part of the day,as for the problem u have now if you wet rub with 1000 grit w/d and paint again but make sure its a good day
and hasnt rained as you will get little bubbles showing up in your paint work 3 months later and that means strip it and start from scratch anymore question just pm
awell here,if you are painting outside (not in a heated booth) u are better
to make sure that it hasnt rained in the last three days and make sure you start around lunch time as its the hotest part of the day,as for the problem u have now if you wet rub with 1000 grit w/d and paint again but make sure its a good day
and hasnt rained as you will get little bubbles showing up in your paint work 3 months later and that means strip it and start from scratch anymore question just pm
Edited by brocks72xu1, 21 April 2008 - 07:52 PM.
#40
_Big T_
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Posted 21 April 2008 - 11:09 PM
Cool, all questions answered now, thanks fellas 
Now I just gotta wait for the sun to shine consistently before a weekend so I can get back into it. You would reckon in QLD that wouldnt be a problem, not so recently..... ah well.
Now I just gotta wait for the sun to shine consistently before a weekend so I can get back into it. You would reckon in QLD that wouldnt be a problem, not so recently..... ah well.
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