Hey guys while cleaning my spark plugs I accidently broke the porcelain on one. No dramas I bought a new spark plug and set the gap using another spark plug as a measurement (but did use feeler gauges).
My motor, at times runs rough now. Idles at 500rpm and just before with heavy breaking it just shut off in mid motion :S?
I'm thinking its something to do with the spark plug because before replacing it I had no troubles.
It's the right spark plug, NGK BP5Fs for a holden 202 motor.
Whats the correct gap setting for a red 202? I read it was 1mm somewhere but when i measured the others they were 0.88mm
cheers
Spark plug gap setting
Started by
_Chriskoss-79uc_
, May 13 2008 04:48 PM
63 replies to this topic
#2
_73LJWhiteSL_
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 04:58 PM
0.88 sounds right for a Holden Red 6 running points ignition,
my LC Workshop manual lists 0.036" - 0.040" for the gap which is 0.9144 - 1.016mm for the 138ci - 161ci engines.
I use 1.1mm but I am running the Commodore electronic dizzy on a 173ci red with straight gas.
Steve
my LC Workshop manual lists 0.036" - 0.040" for the gap which is 0.9144 - 1.016mm for the 138ci - 161ci engines.
I use 1.1mm but I am running the Commodore electronic dizzy on a 173ci red with straight gas.
Steve
Edited by 73LJWhiteSL, 13 May 2008 - 05:00 PM.
#3
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 05:01 PM
Thats odd. Yep I am running the stock points ignition dizzy.
Could I have stuffed the electrode somehow when regapping the plug? I just used pliers
Could I have stuffed the electrode somehow when regapping the plug? I just used pliers
#4
TerrA LX
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 05:14 PM
Does it run any different if you remove and earth the plug lead on the plug you replaced, or any other for that matter?
#5
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 13 May 2008 - 06:05 PM
yep it does. it runs for a second then dies again when i took off the lead and earthed it..Does it run any different if you remove and earth the plug lead on the plug you replaced, or any other for that matter?
I think I fixed it for now... can somebody confirm the correct gap setting is 0.88mm not 1mm? because thats a substantial different isn't it
Edited by Chriskoss-79uc, 13 May 2008 - 06:05 PM.
#6
FastEHHolden
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Posted 14 May 2008 - 01:52 PM
1.016 mm or 40 thou for plugs which is the width of a hacksaw blade....if you can measure the 16 thousanths of a mm i'll give you a mintie.
If you upgrade to blue motor HEI its 1.3 - 1.5 mm...depends on which book you read.
If you upgrade to blue motor HEI its 1.3 - 1.5 mm...depends on which book you read.
#7
Litre8
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Posted 14 May 2008 - 06:48 PM
Maybe you cracked the porcelain accidently on some other spark plugs too?
#8
davelh
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Posted 15 May 2008 - 05:07 PM
yep, hacksaw blade does the trick for me!
#9
_Herne_
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Posted 15 May 2008 - 05:31 PM
Perhaps the other plugs now need replacing?
Herne
Herne
#10
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 15 May 2008 - 08:08 PM
Personally i would replace all six. There only cheap after all!!!
#11
_torbirdie_
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Posted 16 May 2008 - 07:30 AM
As stated by some ^, if it looks like 1mm, that will be fine. The reason as to running rough?
perhaps damaged other plugs in the process
and/or
you may have damaged a lead in removing/replacing or not reinstalled properly.
A simple test is to diagnose which cylinder is not getting the spark is to pull the leads(one at a time) while the motor is running, or you can stop the motor and restart each time. Whichever gives the least rpm drop is the cylinder to be most likely your problem. Use something that is insulated to pull them with, not advised for hei systems.
perhaps damaged other plugs in the process
and/or
you may have damaged a lead in removing/replacing or not reinstalled properly.
A simple test is to diagnose which cylinder is not getting the spark is to pull the leads(one at a time) while the motor is running, or you can stop the motor and restart each time. Whichever gives the least rpm drop is the cylinder to be most likely your problem. Use something that is insulated to pull them with, not advised for hei systems.
#12
FastEHHolden
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Posted 16 May 2008 - 09:03 AM
As an aside..I wouldn't bother cleaning plugs...it stuffs them up big time.
I read a tech report on the voltage required to fire plugs after wire brushing and grit blasting and compare that to a dirty plug and a new plug.
Obviously new came in best...but if I remember right, filed and regapped was next best. grit blasted was third and wire brushed was last.
I read a tech report on the voltage required to fire plugs after wire brushing and grit blasting and compare that to a dirty plug and a new plug.
Obviously new came in best...but if I remember right, filed and regapped was next best. grit blasted was third and wire brushed was last.
#13
originalglenn
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Posted 16 May 2008 - 11:37 AM
..........................[I]A simple test is to diagnose which cylinder is not getting the spark is to pull the leads(one at a time) while the motor is running, or you can stop the motor and restart each time. Whichever gives the least rpm drop is the cylinder to be most likely your problem. Use something that is insulated to pull them with, not advised for hei systems.[I]
What i do is, With the engine stopped pull back all the spark plug boots so you can see the connectors( now is a good time to make sure they are a snug fit on the plugs and do the same on the dizzy cap) connect a digital tacho, start engine
using a long thick screwdriver short out each connecter to the engine
observe drop in rpm if there is no(or lower than the rest) drop in revs that cylinder is not working properly
What i do is, With the engine stopped pull back all the spark plug boots so you can see the connectors( now is a good time to make sure they are a snug fit on the plugs and do the same on the dizzy cap) connect a digital tacho, start engine
using a long thick screwdriver short out each connecter to the engine
observe drop in rpm if there is no(or lower than the rest) drop in revs that cylinder is not working properly
Edited by originalglenn, 16 May 2008 - 11:38 AM.
#14
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 17 May 2008 - 12:55 AM
Thanks for all the help guys.
I took out all of the spark plugs and none of them are damaged. Could the gap on each spark plug be changed while I was sanding the tops of them to clean them up?
It's running fine now, but sometimes, rarely, while idling it will start clanking noises and run at low rpm again. Really odd. I can't notice a big drop in power but maybe just a tad.
I took out all of the spark plugs and none of them are damaged. Could the gap on each spark plug be changed while I was sanding the tops of them to clean them up?
It's running fine now, but sometimes, rarely, while idling it will start clanking noises and run at low rpm again. Really odd. I can't notice a big drop in power but maybe just a tad.
#15
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 17 May 2008 - 12:57 AM
With this trick you showed me, do you pull the plug leads 1 after the other. Or say pull cylinder 1, observe rpm, then put back on, and try cylinder 2?As stated by some ^, if it looks like 1mm, that will be fine. The reason as to running rough?
perhaps damaged other plugs in the process
and/or
you may have damaged a lead in removing/replacing or not reinstalled properly.
A simple test is to diagnose which cylinder is not getting the spark is to pull the leads(one at a time) while the motor is running, or you can stop the motor and restart each time. Whichever gives the least rpm drop is the cylinder to be most likely your problem. Use something that is insulated to pull them with, not advised for hei systems.
Cheers
#16
TerrA LX
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Posted 17 May 2008 - 09:02 AM
One at at time, which is what I first asked u to do.
What else was worked on besides the plugs.
ATM sounds like a bad lead or plug.
What else was worked on besides the plugs.
ATM sounds like a bad lead or plug.
#17
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 17 May 2008 - 10:44 AM
Thats it I just tidied up the plugs with fine course wet and dry.
I'll try what you said Terry and see how it goes,
cheers
I'll try what you said Terry and see how it goes,
cheers
#18
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 08:28 PM
Hmm. Sorry to dig up an old thread.
I checked all the spark plugs and none are cracked or damaged. I checked all the lead connections and they are snug tight. How does it stuff the plugs when cleaning them? I re-gapped them all to the correct width, and still it runs at rough rpm's at times and also makes a ticking sound.
I checked all the spark plugs and none are cracked or damaged. I checked all the lead connections and they are snug tight. How does it stuff the plugs when cleaning them? I re-gapped them all to the correct width, and still it runs at rough rpm's at times and also makes a ticking sound.
#19
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 08:30 PM
How did the check go?
#20
FastEHHolden
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 09:14 PM
I assume wire brushing scatches the electrode and grit blasting pits it.
Another trick for you....start the engine at night and pop the bonnet and look at your engine in the dark....what do you see?
Another trick for you....start the engine at night and pop the bonnet and look at your engine in the dark....what do you see?
#21
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 09:26 PM
Um... an engine? ahhaI assume wire brushing scatches the electrode and grit blasting pits it.
Another trick for you....start the engine at night and pop the bonnet and look at your engine in the dark....what do you see?
What am I supposed to see mate?
#22
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 09:27 PM
Nothing lol, but if the spark is leaking to earth u will see a lil lightning display.
That l be ur ticking.
That l be ur ticking.
#23
_Chriskoss-79uc_
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 09:28 PM
O.k. I checked all of the spark plugs, no damage or gaps. Checked all the leads. All fine. Should I just go and buy another whole set of sparkplugs and go from there. Because 1 is new from the 1 I broke, and the other 5 are the old ones. I can't think what else it could beHow did the check go?
#24
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 09:32 PM
U may have damaged a lead pulling them off, do u have an ohm meter?
#25
_rorym_
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Posted 29 May 2008 - 11:09 PM
Pay $40 and put it on the Ultra Tune scope machine...will pick it in a second...no guessing required..
My 2cs.
R
My 2cs.
R
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