Javascript Disabled Detected

You currently have javascript disabled. Several functions may not work. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality.

My LX hatch project

Started by _mowie_ , Jun 19 2008 12:33 PM

Next

Please log in to reply

57 replies to this topic

#1 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:33 PM

Hey all,
Thought it was about time i posted some pics of my project car. I brought it about four years ago from Dunolly in Vic. Apparantly someone else was driving down from broken hill to pick it up but said first to pay was the new owner(if this was anyone on this forum im sorry.....maybe). It's just an SL hatch but the body was in very good condition when i brought it. It had everything there but was a basket case. I paid $1500 for it.
Since then i have not done much as i had been a poor school kid and now a poor uni student but its finally getting panel beated and painted. It was originally mandarin red but some idiots had painted straight over the top. It's going to be chamois white with flares and blackouts accross the bonnet and arount the windows. I've got a 400... i mean 283 for it a turbo 350 and a 9 inch.
Anyway here is a few pics from when i had it sand blasted, obviously not on any main panels. Ive shown the only parts of rust that were found.
Hope you enjoy, any pics of a chamois white hatch with the blackouts would be good as my painter wants to know where they start.

Thanks all :rockon:

Tom

Back to top

#2 RIM-010

DON'T PANIC

Members
8,076 posts

Name:Tim
Location:Cowell, SA
Car:LJ 2 Door - HQ Premier
Joined: 01-March 06

View Garage

Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:42 PM

Chamois isn't white, is it? I thought it was a kind of light creamy brown...

Tim

Back to top

#3 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:46 PM

yeah i guess its a creamy color. does anyone have the paint code??
Thanks

Back to top

#4 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 12:51 PM

sorry my bad, i meant palais white. I was tossing up between those two.
I think it is a pretty good shell to start with.
Thanks again

Back to top

#5 Toranavista

'Let There Be Rock' 1977

Members
2,862 posts

Location:CANBERRA
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 19 June 2008 - 03:50 PM

Black outs will depend on if you are fitting the alloy strips again? And if you are going the SS A9X look or SS look?

Back to top

#6 _RdS_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 04:16 PM

Chamois isn't white, is it? I thought it was a kind of light creamy brown...

Tim

my dad had a chamois tonner that he always said is 'green'. to everyone else, its 'cream'!

anyway... chamois is 568-15950, and palais white 568-30521.

theres also cotillion white, 568-15951...

Back to top

#7 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 05:07 PM

Thanks guys, what are the blackouts that are on the black and white hatch on ebay at thee moment are. Not sure if im allowed to post a pic of it.
Thanks
Tom

Back to top

#8 _panthervs_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 06:01 PM

Looks like an awsome start mate and good to see your doing it right and just take you time

Back to top

#9 Toranavista

'Let There Be Rock' 1977

Members
2,862 posts

Location:CANBERRA
Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 19 June 2008 - 07:21 PM

The one on ebay has the SS bumpers and the black outs the same as the Castrol hatch which had the black outs like most GMPA A9X shells were painted. The Castrol car has the A9X/ Sunbird bumpers

Back to top

#10 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 19 June 2008 - 07:27 PM

Thanks a lot toranavista, that was exactly wat i was after. The car came with some plastic protectors over the front lights, were they factory?
I cant see them on most pics.
Thanks

Back to top

#11 _LXChev366_

Guests

Posted 21 June 2008 - 12:31 PM

By the way this is a Chamios Hatch

Posted Image

This will give you some idea's on blackouts...

Posted Image

and of course...jump on this thread about Hatches...heaps of pics

http://www.gmh-toran...opic=27007&st=0

Back to top

#12 TerrA LX

Fulcrum Fixture

Members
14,241 posts

Location:Sid 'n' knee
Joined: 31-May 06

Posted 21 June 2008 - 06:15 PM

Whats the diff between sunturd and A9x bumpers?

Back to top

#13 REDA9X

Removed

Inactive
0 posts

Joined: 08-November 05

Posted 21 June 2008 - 08:54 PM

The link to this thread should help

http://www.gmh-toran...showtopic=28478

The car on the cover of street machione above does not have the chrome strips around the windows, this is why it is painted differently to the white hatch in the link I have provided. You can see it would look, odd with the black done like the Street machine Castrol A9X and chrome strips as Toranavista has already stated. Just for the record, GMP&A shells were just plain white from the factory (except for a few odd cars that had colour), no blackouts at all.

Back to top

#14 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 23 June 2008 - 04:53 PM

Thanks guys,
Panthervs - thanks for the comments, my panel beater has quoted me $1500 to take the shell to bare metal and fix all the rust and paint it. Then more for the panels, obviously being lined up properly. I think that is very cheep.
Lxchev366 - Thanks for the photos the orange hatch is what im after.
Reda9x - thank you for clearing that up with me. What is the paint code for the blackouts?? Is there any measurements when marking the car out to have the blackouts painter. I'm going for the same setup as the castrol and ebay hatch. So this means no chrome around the windows?
Thanks all.
Have a good one :spoton:

Tom

Back to top

#15 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 23 June 2008 - 08:01 PM

Just got word that the panel beater and painter has started work and has gotten rid of the rust around the hatch and rear lights. Next is fixing the rust behind the bonnet hinges and then cutting the guards for the flares. Glad im 400 k's away for that one.
So im going to have standard chrome bumpers, blackouts around the windows with no chrome which follows the crease and follows down the bonnet and guards. just like the castrol car above. Is there any dimensions i can give my painter or do i just say to follow the crease down?
If they had the blackouts did they have the black sills? Has anyone got some pictures of a white hatch with the black sills?
Thanks all for your help,
Tom

Back to top

#16 lxsstorana

Forum Fixture

Members
2,499 posts

Name:Mick
Location:Eastwood, Sydney
Car:SS Hatchback
Joined: 23-March 06

Posted 23 June 2008 - 08:42 PM

Hi Tom,

I would definitely keep the sills the same colour as your car. They look much nicer (in my opinion) as can be seen in the photo's of the orange, yellow and white hatch. I painted my blackouts the same as the orange hatch.

Regards Mick.

Back to top

#17 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 23 June 2008 - 08:50 PM

Thanks Mick.
Thats what i was thinking. Have you got any pics of your hatch. It looks similar to what im trying to achieve.
Thanks a lot.
Tom

Back to top

#18 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 25 June 2008 - 01:59 PM

Hey all,
Just another question, with my mirrors i want the slr ones. as i am having the blackouts, do the mirrors need to be painted black or white.
On another note, i have some pictures being emailed to me of the progress so should be able to post some more up soon.
Reda9x i wish i could have seen and have known half the things you do.
Tom

Back to top

#19 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 25 June 2008 - 05:10 PM

Some pics i recieved today, looking ok.

Posted Image

Thanks all.

Back to top

#20 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 27 June 2008 - 08:00 PM

Hi all, have some more pictures coming on monday. I am getting a uc front k frame to go into the hatch. I do however want to upgrade the brakes and as i have read there is many different ways to achieve this.
Should i get the upgrade kit that is on ebay now??
Thanks for your help and comments.
Tom

Back to top

#21 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 30 October 2008 - 02:18 PM

Hi all, have some more pictures coming on monday. I am getting a uc front k frame to go into the hatch. I do however want to upgrade the brakes and as i have read there is many different ways to achieve this.
Should i get the upgrade kit that is on ebay now??
Thanks for your help and comments.
Tom

Ok so its been quite a while since i have done an update as i have not been home to see the progress. It is a side job for my panel beater so it is only being done slowly. At current almost all rust has been fixed and the rear guards have been cut, he has done a very good job of it to. Roof, rear quarters and door jams are all in primer apparently. Im waiting on some photos which should be arriving today so ill post them up ASAP. Uni exams finish in a couple of weeks then ill hopefully get home for a bit to work on the old girl. Plans are to have the 9 inch cut over the holidays, rebuild the gear box and start building the engine. Have decided to do something a bit different which i hope will work with the engine, plan to use my 400 block with the 327 crank, then chuck my fuely heads on it. That way ill save a lot of money, it will rev its head off and im sure it will still have enough power. I think it brings the engine size down to a little bit above 350.
Hopefully ill have some photos to share in the next couple of days.
Tom

Back to top

#22 76lxhatch

That was easy!

Members
7,153 posts

Location:Unzud
Car:SS
Joined: 04-August 08

View Garage

Posted 30 October 2008 - 02:30 PM

Looking forward to seeing it, you have good taste

Back to top

#23 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 30 October 2008 - 03:30 PM

Thanks 76lxhatch, :spoton:

I have been told the photos will be emailed to me tonight but that hasn't stopped me refreshing my inbox every 30 seconds.

Tom

Back to top

#24 _nno308_

Guests

Posted 30 October 2008 - 04:29 PM

Hi,

If you're going to put the 327 crank into the 400 block, you are either going to need bearing spacers or speciality bearings. The main journal sizes are different. Either are available from Summit Racing in the US. VPW or similiar would also be able to source them for you.

Why not keep it to 400 ci and enjoy the extra cubes?

Back to top

#25 _mowie_

Guests

Posted 30 October 2008 - 04:36 PM

I brought the block without the crank and originally i was just going to buy a new crank but thought i would just use the 327. I have already looked at getting the spacers but at the moment im still unsure. The main idea behind using the 327 crank was to save money.

Tom