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replaceing rear 1/4

Started by racean69 , Sep 04 2008 08:42 PM

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34 replies to this topic

#26 _2runa_

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 11:31 AM

Hi Rod you may of seen these tools before but if you havent ive found it a tool that makes the job so much easyer and less warping when welding ,it also has a punch on the back side great for plug welding
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#27 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 04:53 PM

I noticed in the pic of the old bogged panel that what alerted you to the fact it had a poor repair was a rusty crack in the bog. Bog is ok as long as it's no thicker than 2-3mm, any thicker it will tend to crack from panel flex like your's did. When I do repairs where I will have to fill, before I apply the bog I scrub the bare metal with deoxidine then wipe with thinners. This removes any trace of surface rust that may be present. If there is any oxidisation on the panel, even minute amounts you can't see, over time rust will form & lift the filler off the panel like what happened to your car,ie the bog was too thick, cracked from panel flex letting moisture in causing it to lift off. Also after you've finished your repair & primed the panel, if you aren't planning to paint straight away, instead of applying a light guide coat, spray a full coat to seal off the primer. Primer is porous like bog & will soak moisture from the air causing rust. I've seen cars that have sat in primer for months end up with corrosion blisters appearing under the paint within weeks of being finally painted Hope this helps & good luck with your project

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#28 Ruts

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 06:15 PM

Yep I agree with LH SLR 3300. Another tip when replacing 1/4 panels is to join the old with the new through the C pillar. Take the rear window out and join it half way down the pillar that way you would not have to weld and finish as much. Other than that top job Rod keep up the good work and do me proud with a 'Ruts' type rear guard cut.

Ruts

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#29 racean69

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Name:Rod
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Posted 16 September 2008 - 08:11 PM

Aint going to be much progress for abit, work is crazy at the moment but I got a bit of drive back so it's full steam ahead.

2runa...yes mate have seen those flangeing tools before

LH SLR 3300...thanks some good tips there :spoton:

Ruts... I will certianly do my best.

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#30 _gtr161s_

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 08:34 PM

Hi Rod you may of seen these tools before but if you havent ive found it a tool that makes the job so much easyer and less warping when welding ,it also has a punch on the back side great for plug welding

2runa - where did you buy that crimping tool or even a brand name...I've hunting for ages and can't turn any up.

Kev

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#31 _2runa_

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Posted 16 September 2008 - 09:30 PM

Try ebay for the crimping / stepping / punch tool if you have no luck let me know and i will source you one, most are under $ 200 dollars . This one is a WTD brand. if you over crimp to many times in the same area it will strech the panel slightly. Reg Trev.

Edited by 2runa, 16 September 2008 - 09:31 PM.

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#32 _LHGPAK_

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 01:01 PM

Hi,

I was just wondering, what sort of welder have you used to tack that panle on????

Thanks Nathan

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#33 racean69

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Posted 21 October 2008 - 07:09 PM

I used my CIG Transmig 275 to tack in panel..I use .6mm solid wire... my welder has a tweco #4 torch which is a bit large and cumbersome for the light stuff but gets the job done...I don't even bother changeing the liner which is a 1.2mm (don't tell any of the pro's), thats the wire I mostly use for my work.

I have been thinking about welding out the panel with my TIG, just a bit easier to control heat, amout of filler etc.

And no updates as yet.

cheers Rod

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#34 _UC MIKE_

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Posted 21 April 2010 - 10:08 PM

im not keen on doing my right rear quarter after seeing whats involved in the job but hey will be worth it just due to the lack of ruse else where in the car

torana dent.JPG 1.01MB 29 downloads
keep in mind that this pushed in about 8 inches when i got it good old slide hammer pulled it out enough for the tyre to clear