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i304 into LH


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#26 _lx-304_

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 03:49 PM

yes they were biult on the engineers thumbs up.it does sound a bit scary but makes perfect sense as the vt hub would be exactltly the same thing except with commodoere pattern.after buying the rotors,calipers and hq stubbs and discs,i am only at $300.



dave

#27 _rammaLH_

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Posted 25 November 2008 - 06:24 PM

thanks heaps guys, yeah i figure i should use the VN brakes for the moment considering i have got em already.
Not going to be doing too much with the car bar sunday driver to start off with. Down the track will be going for a hopper stoppers kit though i think. Will check with the guy that will be engineering it for me that all is well with my brakes plans.

What sort of $$ amount do you think i will be looking at for exhaust? Also heard that the pacemaker extractors that are in the VN can be modified to fit saves buying new ones, is this correct?

#28 _rammaLH_

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Posted 27 November 2008 - 02:56 PM

so anything else i need 2 add to my list guys?

#29 _rammaLH_

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Posted 12 January 2009 - 02:48 PM

Well ball is well and truely rolling with my car now, engine bay empty ready for the 304 to go in.
Doing a crane 284 cam and speedpro valve springs and chipping the ecu before it goes in as well as all oil seals, sump gasket, rocker gasket etc.
Planning on getting motor in and running before gettin stuck into brakes

#30 _rammaLH_

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Posted 03 March 2009 - 05:55 PM

Bit of an update guys

Ended up pulling motor completely down, pistons cleaned up like new
-re-seated the valves and fitted some double springs
-acl mains and big end bearings
-crow timing chain set
-crane followers
-acl race series gasket set
-high energy sump and pick-up
-new moly rings


Well bottom end all in and together, cam in, heads and overhead gear on. New pickup and sump on.

Ordered some nice alloy rocker covers and a gilmer belt drive system.
CRS crossmember gettin delivered tomorrow with new rubber.

Polished fuel rail and painted manifold black. I reakon looks smicko!

Can anyone tell me if a set of pacemaker extractors that were in the VN will fit into torana?

Will get some pics up soon as i can, thanks heaps for the help again too.

brett

#31 _rammaLH_

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Posted 05 March 2009 - 06:46 PM

whats the need for a low mount altinator bracket? does it hit on the chassis when mounted in the factory 304 position?

#32 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 08:12 PM

Yeah from memory if you try to use a Commie or HQ-WB alternator bracket, the alternator will foul on the battery tray & chassis rail. Try Rare Spares I think they sell a repro V8 Torana alternator bracket. Try & source some factory HQ-HZ, or if your lucky, factory V8 Torana pulleys for the engine too. They are different from Commie ones & if you try to use the Commie ones your fan belt might not track properly & you'll end up throwing the fan belt first time you give it a big rev.

#33 _Squarepants_

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 08:50 PM

-shortened driveshaft
-shortened axles (do i need to shorten diff housings???)
-conversion kit for vn brakes to go on.


You will need to shorten the housing if you're shortening the axles, which you will definately need to do both. I have just put a VP diff into my LH and it had to be shortened. Not sure of the actual length, just supplied the original housing so he could use the mounts from it. He'd done a few of the same conversions before though so he knew what he was doing and knew the length required. I had mine shortened an extra 20mm so I could fit slightly bigger tyres on the back.
I got a custom tailshaft, just supplied the distance from the rear seal of the gearbox to the flange on the front of the diff pinion.
Your VN brakes should fit straight back onto your diff, I just (assuming they're discs) took the check valve out of the master cyl (on the rear brake port) and removed the nylon poppet out of the prop. valve.
You need to sort out your brake lines, going from imperial fittings to metric, and get some custom handbrake cables.
Piece of cake!

#34 _rammaLH_

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Posted 12 March 2009 - 08:11 PM

thanks guys, will get some pics up after this weekend.
Got everything now for motor and box to go in.
-got a pair of new castle headers to suit
-new bosch small body starter motor
-alloy rocker covers
-low mount altinator bracket
-gilmer belt drive kit
-surge tank

just tossin up weather to go a bosch 044, or a vl turbo in line pump......

what cha reakon?

#35 gtrboyy

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Posted 13 March 2009 - 05:43 AM

vl turbo/vn pump will do the job just fine

#36 _rammaLH_

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Posted 16 March 2009 - 07:46 PM

some pics guys, let us know wat ya think.

Had a bit of a shit time getting motor in, certainly wasent easy like i was told it would be!
had to take T5 off and put motor in seperatly, then slide box underneath, lift up manually and bolt up.

Castle headers are up against the floor underneath, bolted up ok but stuffed if i know how exhaust place is gunna slide anything over em to build exhaust.

Had to cut hole in floor pan twice as far back to get shifter up into car

Fuel rail up against air box so thats useless, gunna have to cut hole in it then bend some alluminium too accomodate and rivit/silicon on.

Dipstick useless cause extractors and in way, wont push down and if far enough

CRS crossmember fitted perfectly! happy with that

car now at my engineer mates place getting loom and fuel system sorted out as well as all little problems.
Then gunna get stuck into diff and brakes. hopefully a few weeks away from being driveable

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#37 _rammaLH_

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 07:03 PM

rightio.... so many comments :(
dont pple like what im doin or sumthin? lol

#38 _UNVSM8_

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 07:15 PM

engine looks mint mate! i'd be interest to hear how u go with the glimer drive and what it sounds like!

at least the extractors will be up nice and high lol all the best!

Ben

#39 _LH SLR 3300_

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 07:20 PM

I've done this conversion & it looks like you're doing fine to me. I had the same issues you did with heaterbox & having to fit gearbox first. I also had to trim the cotter pins on the steering knuckle as it hit the extractors when turning & I also had to bend the metal brace for the driver's side engine mount on the crossmember as the extractors were resting on it. I've also found problems with fuel line clearance, wiring harness clearance, melted wires & so forth. To make it neater & easier to maintain I've also fitted all the relays, ignition module, MAP sensor etc under the dash behind the glovebox. You can check out some of my mods in member's projects under LH SLR 3300 now EFI 5.7. Good luck with your project but seems you know what you're doing.

#40 _lx-304_

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 07:31 PM

we like it, but not alot of people comment .maybe move it to the projects thread.also before you fit the motor the barbs on the back of the manifold will need to be at 90 degrees so the hoses dont foul on the heater box/rail at the back.


dave

#41 Neils LX

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Posted 19 March 2009 - 10:41 PM

Hi mate
Many of us here have fitted a VN-VS 304 into LH-UC toranas.
Dipstick- You will have to modify it but use the one with your torana sump not commy one
Fuel rail prob- Use VN fuel rail as late vp- vs ones are different and hit heater box, vns dont
I have pictures if you get stuck for help however UNVSM8 fitted a T5 where i went supra.
Sounds like your 9/10s there, good luck with it
Chears Neil

#42 yel327

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 03:36 PM

I haven't done this in a Torana before, only HZ, but did you use Torana engine mount adapters? Just wondering why the headers sit up so high that they hit the floor?

#43 holdenuc

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Posted 20 March 2009 - 03:46 PM

g'day mate,
I'm in the process of doing this conversion to my uc. I'm interested to know how you get on with the extractors, as I was looking at using the castle extractors. you mentioned they are touching to floor? can you take a photo?
thanks
holdenuc

#44 Neils LX

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Posted 21 March 2009 - 07:07 PM

Hi
Your castle extractors should not hit the floor unless HQ-WB mounts are being used as far as i know. Otherwise try using factory VN-VS extractors (they fit) and change the oxygen sencer, collector and you will save $500 on castle extractors.
Chears Neil

#45 _rammaLH_

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 03:40 PM

Thanks guys, sorry havent been on for a few days.
Vel327, i used HQ v8 engine mounts and a pair of engine brackets off a 308 that came outta a HZ.
As far as i could find the castle headers are the only ones that are made to suit the application with a 5 speed.
Was thinking i could make up some plates to sit under crossmember at sides to drop angle on engine down at the back so they not so snug with the floor.
HOLDENUC car is now at my engineer mates getting wiring sorted, i can take a pic this weekend...

Already spend 700 buckaroos on the headers, considered the factory extractors but they so restrictive, just figured do it once and do it right...

#46 76lxhatch

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Posted 24 March 2009 - 06:28 PM

Neils LX I'm pretty sure HQ mounts sit the engine lower, so I doubt that would cause a problem. If the extractors hit using HQ mounts I'd hate to see what they are like with the proper Torana ones

#47 LhMusL

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Posted 25 March 2009 - 09:23 AM

I was told by Castle Auto's that i would have to use HQ engine mount brackets for the pipes to fit, i too thought that they sit the engine lower.
Yeah they were the only ones i could find that would clear the manual box setup and have decent pipe sizes for a 355 with VN heads.

#48 _rammaLH_

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 09:16 PM

Yeah when i was buyin mounts i was told the HQ mounts sit the engine lower. The torana v8 engine brackets were up higher.

-Well started my car over the easter weekend, few pumps to get fuel up and she went straight away. sounded fantastic. Starting to see light at the end of the tunnel now!
Just cleaning up all wiring at the moment. ECU mounted right up behind glove box out of sight.

Front brakes are next to get into and hopefully wont give us too much hasstle.

The borg warner LSD is gunna be a bit of work to get in and driving, has anyone done one and what info can you tell me that will be usefull?

#49 76lxhatch

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Posted 22 April 2009 - 10:12 PM

Borg Warner LSD, I can tell you that it lasted 6 months from tight to near destroyed... :o Lokka time!

What info are you looking for? The overall conversion is no more difficult than any other diff, simpler if you use the Skyline diff. Gearsets can come from almost any live axle VK 1/2 to VS Commodore, centres from those plus 90s live axle Falcons so plenty of parts around.

#50 _slr253_

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 07:14 PM

Congrats on the conversion so far. I'm thinking of doing the same to my LX but I already have the VN diff installed.

PM me if you are near Carrum Downs... :spoton:

Cheers,
Brett




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