Does anyone know if the difference in
the Radial Tuned suspension mounting
points are on the chassis or the diff housing?
Reason I ask is have a HX/Z diff in after
chucking the 9" & I've got a minor vibe at 90 odd.
HQ parts cat shows 2 numbers for lower arms- same
arm does both sides but separate numbers for auto
& manual. Have the original HQ manual arms but diff is
HX/Z RTS.
Also the vibe decreased when a lower trans mount was
used therefore pointing towards a driveshaft angle thats
too steep. I've had a good read on the "Adjustable Arms"
thread & found it very usefull. My front has been lowered but
the rear is stock height.
If I was to lower the rear, as the front, would this rotate the pinion
angle in an upward direction or not?
I'm confident the pinion angle only needs to raise a little to eliminate
the vibe.
I,d appreciate any & all feedback as I,ve rung 2 trans shops & they
cant measure the angles & a place that we send cars with vibes to also
say they dont have the gear, the 1 that does are as dodgey as. 1 suspension
shop said "if I fit lowered springs then I'd have to adjust my Panhard Rod as it-
would be pushing my diff sideways"........???????????????? AHH its a HQ mate.........
Ohh well I guess it was a Monday..
Cheers Jono
RTS Question
Started by
_SableMet7/73_
, Nov 19 2008 04:59 PM
30 replies to this topic
#2
View GaragePosted 19 November 2008 - 06:24 PM
I'm pretty sure that RTS only applies to the front end. Later models in the HQ-WB range had some slight sway bar changes in the rear end but that's it as far as I know.
Given that the rear arm configuration is similar to a Torana one would assume the applies, lowering it will decrease the downward pinion angle and at some point introduce vibration. To measure the pinion angle simply use a big protractor and compare the diff pinion angle as best possible with the driveshaft angle. One would assume that if you needed to adjust it you would want the downward pinion angle increased. The other thing that I've heard can be an issue is the angle of the front uni, if you don't have a standard trans setup maybe the height at that end has changed? (edit: oops, you already considered that end)
Given that the rear arm configuration is similar to a Torana one would assume the applies, lowering it will decrease the downward pinion angle and at some point introduce vibration. To measure the pinion angle simply use a big protractor and compare the diff pinion angle as best possible with the driveshaft angle. One would assume that if you needed to adjust it you would want the downward pinion angle increased. The other thing that I've heard can be an issue is the angle of the front uni, if you don't have a standard trans setup maybe the height at that end has changed? (edit: oops, you already considered that end)
Edited by 76lxhatch, 19 November 2008 - 06:24 PM.
#3
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 19 November 2008 - 08:48 PM
Try putting some weight in the back of the car to see if it makes a difference.
If you are in Perth I have an electronic level that can be used for measuring pinion angles. I also have a pair of Whiteline KTA121 adjustable lower trailing arms that apparently suit a HQ with 650 mm lower trailing arm for sale.
If you are in Perth I have an electronic level that can be used for measuring pinion angles. I also have a pair of Whiteline KTA121 adjustable lower trailing arms that apparently suit a HQ with 650 mm lower trailing arm for sale.
#4
Struggler
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Posted 19 November 2008 - 09:06 PM
I would be looking at the uni joint. If you changed diffs you should have changed uni joints unless you fitted a diff with a 1 Tonner pinion yoke. Holden rear unis need circlips to locate in the pinion yoke where the 9" yoke has tabs fitted and doesn't require the circlips.
76lx is right, RTS only applies to the front. The rear only got a swaybar, not any pivot/arm changes.
76lx is right, RTS only applies to the front. The rear only got a swaybar, not any pivot/arm changes.
#5
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 19 November 2008 - 09:59 PM
Thanx for the replies.
Struggler. Yeah did the rear uni & its got the circlips. actually
its another shaft I had done.Thinking of doing the uni's again
& getting balance check at another place.
Thought the same on the RTS rear set up, its just the HX/Z
Gregoreys manual reckons not to mix them up/ mark LH & RH.
Exactly what I'm doing tomorrow morning ls2lxhatch, thought I'd
load 3 slabs into the boot (concrete not the amber, thats later) &
taking a run up & down the Pipe.
Yeah I'm in Perth, if its still a problem, It'd be great if it could be
checked as I've spent a bit of time on it.
As said a new shaft & good S/H yoke, trans mounts, extension housing
bush, another crossmember & trailing arm bushes.
Its not the expense as its all trade, its the time jacking up & swapping
that & testing.
Just 1 of those annoying little jobs.
I wont begin to tell youse about the bloody vibe jobs I had to chase when
I last worked for the dealerships. From insinificant squeaks & rattles to the
other extent where you want to lift & move your left butt cheek as far to
the right as possible coz youd swear the noise comming thru the floor is
going to be followed by a tail shaft wanting to remove said piece of arse.
...But mines not like that.
Cheers Jono
Struggler. Yeah did the rear uni & its got the circlips. actually
its another shaft I had done.Thinking of doing the uni's again
& getting balance check at another place.
Thought the same on the RTS rear set up, its just the HX/Z
Gregoreys manual reckons not to mix them up/ mark LH & RH.
Exactly what I'm doing tomorrow morning ls2lxhatch, thought I'd
load 3 slabs into the boot (concrete not the amber, thats later) &
taking a run up & down the Pipe.
Yeah I'm in Perth, if its still a problem, It'd be great if it could be
checked as I've spent a bit of time on it.
As said a new shaft & good S/H yoke, trans mounts, extension housing
bush, another crossmember & trailing arm bushes.
Its not the expense as its all trade, its the time jacking up & swapping
that & testing.
Just 1 of those annoying little jobs.
I wont begin to tell youse about the bloody vibe jobs I had to chase when
I last worked for the dealerships. From insinificant squeaks & rattles to the
other extent where you want to lift & move your left butt cheek as far to
the right as possible coz youd swear the noise comming thru the floor is
going to be followed by a tail shaft wanting to remove said piece of arse.
...But mines not like that.
Cheers Jono
#6
yel327
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 06:46 AM
Jono
I'd be trying another tailshaft just to try and eliminate that possibility as i've had literally dozens of HQ-WB's over the years with some of them lowered stupidly at the front and never had vibration due to tailshaft angle changes. These were mostly longer wheelbase versions though (Statesman, ute, van, tonners) so sedan/coupe may be different. Is it a standard Holden combo eg trimatic and 10 bolt so you can find one easily to try? The only other thing I can think of is if the diff has been modified ie mounts moved and it's not been done right. It'd be unusual for a commercial diff to be modified into a sedan/wagon/statesman diff though, normally it's the other way around.
As others have said, the only real difference between HQ-HX and HZ/WB diffs is the diff housing has the integral sway bar mounts on the RTS cars. I'm not sure if mid HX diffs also got the sway bar mounts when they also got the RTS front upper control arm mounts.
I'd be trying another tailshaft just to try and eliminate that possibility as i've had literally dozens of HQ-WB's over the years with some of them lowered stupidly at the front and never had vibration due to tailshaft angle changes. These were mostly longer wheelbase versions though (Statesman, ute, van, tonners) so sedan/coupe may be different. Is it a standard Holden combo eg trimatic and 10 bolt so you can find one easily to try? The only other thing I can think of is if the diff has been modified ie mounts moved and it's not been done right. It'd be unusual for a commercial diff to be modified into a sedan/wagon/statesman diff though, normally it's the other way around.
As others have said, the only real difference between HQ-HX and HZ/WB diffs is the diff housing has the integral sway bar mounts on the RTS cars. I'm not sure if mid HX diffs also got the sway bar mounts when they also got the RTS front upper control arm mounts.
#7
GML-31
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 08:06 AM
is the tranny mount new, chased a vibe for months on a LX and thats what it ended up being
#8
Posted 20 November 2008 - 08:48 AM
On the trans mount train of thought, make sure it is a nice soft rubber one - anything too firm (especially those urethane ones) will cause vibration
#9
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 03:32 PM
These were mostly longer wheelbase versions though (Statesman, ute, van, tonners) so sedan/coupe may be different.
Sedan/Coupe wheelbase: 111"
Statesman/ute/van/wagon wheelbase: 114"
1 tonner wheelbase: just over 120"
#10
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 06:07 PM
Thanx you blokes.
Tried the slabs, lowered 1 3/4" to match front- same
sorta expected that really! Yeah I took to the front springs
with a oxy & air shocks on the rear when I was a lad & no vibes.
Have got/tried 3 different hieght trans mounts, all genuine & good nick.
Slipped the shaft out this arvo & trans uni seems to have flung its grease
out, its stuck to the floor above it, slip yoke still looks good spline wise & no
slop from the extension housing bush. I know it sounds like I'm jumping from
1 end to the other but the trans uni shows a little stress & there cheap as.
I've just dropped off the shaft for new front uni & balance. Pick it up tomorrow
& I'll give it a run.
Got another shaft here but a little shorter as was for the 9", got a spanking
new slip yoke tho, problem is wont fit this shaft as is the bigger/wider yoke joint &
the 1 in the car is the smaller. I normally use Statesman or wagon shafts
as there longer & have them made to lenght but know where I can get ahold of a
T400 to salisbury shaft for a sedan for a test.
Spose I'd better fill you in on a few more details: 71 HQ Monaro, 350 Chev
alloy Muncie (M20 by the serial #) & Salisbury diff (+sway bar mounts) fitted 1
of those McDonald Bros Xmember kits but found a HQ-Z xmember with the same
plate but where the Aussie & Trimatic mounts go, there is no holes pressed/ totally
blank & the reinforcing plates are spot welded. Makes me think this is a factory
T400/Muncie xmember? So I'm using this 1 now as could be more accurate than my
made up 1.
Another thing is the Chev has just gone back in a while ago & with those offset
engine mounts, I'm hoping they were marked correctly, otherwise the crank/trans
centerline would be off.
I'll be checking out every HQ to Zs Chev engine mounts at this Sundays GM Owners
Day.
So if you see some bloke with his face stuck down around someones extractors or taking
heaps of pics of engine mounts, that"ll be me. Come and say Gday!
ls2lxhatch, hoping this might find a solution, if not I might have to take you up on your offer
& throw the gauge on whenever its convenient for you, just to indicate which way I need to go.
Cheers Jono
Tried the slabs, lowered 1 3/4" to match front- same
sorta expected that really! Yeah I took to the front springs
with a oxy & air shocks on the rear when I was a lad & no vibes.
Have got/tried 3 different hieght trans mounts, all genuine & good nick.
Slipped the shaft out this arvo & trans uni seems to have flung its grease
out, its stuck to the floor above it, slip yoke still looks good spline wise & no
slop from the extension housing bush. I know it sounds like I'm jumping from
1 end to the other but the trans uni shows a little stress & there cheap as.
I've just dropped off the shaft for new front uni & balance. Pick it up tomorrow
& I'll give it a run.
Got another shaft here but a little shorter as was for the 9", got a spanking
new slip yoke tho, problem is wont fit this shaft as is the bigger/wider yoke joint &
the 1 in the car is the smaller. I normally use Statesman or wagon shafts
as there longer & have them made to lenght but know where I can get ahold of a
T400 to salisbury shaft for a sedan for a test.
Spose I'd better fill you in on a few more details: 71 HQ Monaro, 350 Chev
alloy Muncie (M20 by the serial #) & Salisbury diff (+sway bar mounts) fitted 1
of those McDonald Bros Xmember kits but found a HQ-Z xmember with the same
plate but where the Aussie & Trimatic mounts go, there is no holes pressed/ totally
blank & the reinforcing plates are spot welded. Makes me think this is a factory
T400/Muncie xmember? So I'm using this 1 now as could be more accurate than my
made up 1.
Another thing is the Chev has just gone back in a while ago & with those offset
engine mounts, I'm hoping they were marked correctly, otherwise the crank/trans
centerline would be off.
I'll be checking out every HQ to Zs Chev engine mounts at this Sundays GM Owners
Day.
So if you see some bloke with his face stuck down around someones extractors or taking
heaps of pics of engine mounts, that"ll be me. Come and say Gday!
ls2lxhatch, hoping this might find a solution, if not I might have to take you up on your offer
& throw the gauge on whenever its convenient for you, just to indicate which way I need to go.
Cheers Jono
#11
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 06:45 PM
I believe the mounts are on the wrong sides in this photo as the mount on the drivers side is lower than the passenger side mount.
It is my understanding that one adaptor lifts the engine higher to clear the steering gear. The adaptor that lifts the engine the highest is actually the 30 mm adaptor not the 40 mm adaptor. It is the position of the bolt holes that determines the height not the thickness of the adaptor.
This is the passenger side. It is incorrectly marked in pen as DS.
This is the drivers side. It is incorrectly marked in pen as PS.
I do not think that the mounts being on the wrong side will have a significant affect on the vibration problem.
This article explains why uncancelled universal joint angles cause vibration.
http://www.streetrod...gles/index.html
It is my understanding that one adaptor lifts the engine higher to clear the steering gear. The adaptor that lifts the engine the highest is actually the 30 mm adaptor not the 40 mm adaptor. It is the position of the bolt holes that determines the height not the thickness of the adaptor.
This is the passenger side. It is incorrectly marked in pen as DS.
This is the drivers side. It is incorrectly marked in pen as PS.
I do not think that the mounts being on the wrong side will have a significant affect on the vibration problem.
This article explains why uncancelled universal joint angles cause vibration.
http://www.streetrod...gles/index.html
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 20 November 2008 - 06:48 PM.
#12
yel327
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Posted 20 November 2008 - 09:38 PM
Sedan/Coupe wheelbase: 111"
Statesman/ute/van/wagon wheelbase: 114"
1 tonner wheelbase: just over 120"
Chopper, I don't understand your post? Or you didn't understand mine?
#13
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 21 November 2008 - 12:40 PM
Hi
Just had a look in the daylight at my engine mount brackets.
Mine are fairly different, is that a LH/X subframe?
My brackets are 5mm sorta boxed plate steel, the RH one is
thicker than the left but the LH bracket holes are slightly
lower allowing a 5-10mm lift. I run Pacemaker 1 5/8" pipes
& had to "clearance" 1 of the pipes just before the collector
as it was touching the RH lower wishbone arm rear mounting.
Looking at it if I swapped the brackets around it would make it
a little tighter at this pipe.
I'm mainly thinking of the mounts or positioning as 1 thing tried
was at work supported engine on a crane, loosened engine & trans
mount bolts, moved it all about & lowered to find its happy place.
Basically to make sure nothing was pulled about to make the bolt
holes line up & this did marginally improve the vibe as I think it
raised the engine only a couple of mm which brings me back
to believing of a drive shaft angle that could be a little steep.
I havent any steering clearance issues as its Recirculating Ball
on the HQ.
I'll get the shaft back in but not expecting it to be the solution, but
you never know.
ls2lxhatch, once mobile again I'd be glad to come around if you wanna
have a quick look.
Cheers Jono
Just had a look in the daylight at my engine mount brackets.
Mine are fairly different, is that a LH/X subframe?
My brackets are 5mm sorta boxed plate steel, the RH one is
thicker than the left but the LH bracket holes are slightly
lower allowing a 5-10mm lift. I run Pacemaker 1 5/8" pipes
& had to "clearance" 1 of the pipes just before the collector
as it was touching the RH lower wishbone arm rear mounting.
Looking at it if I swapped the brackets around it would make it
a little tighter at this pipe.
I'm mainly thinking of the mounts or positioning as 1 thing tried
was at work supported engine on a crane, loosened engine & trans
mount bolts, moved it all about & lowered to find its happy place.
Basically to make sure nothing was pulled about to make the bolt
holes line up & this did marginally improve the vibe as I think it
raised the engine only a couple of mm which brings me back
to believing of a drive shaft angle that could be a little steep.
I havent any steering clearance issues as its Recirculating Ball
on the HQ.
I'll get the shaft back in but not expecting it to be the solution, but
you never know.
ls2lxhatch, once mobile again I'd be glad to come around if you wanna
have a quick look.
Cheers Jono
#14
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 21 November 2008 - 12:44 PM
PS
I'll go & have a read of that artical on uni's
J
I'll go & have a read of that artical on uni's
J
#15
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Posted 21 November 2008 - 01:28 PM
Chopper, I don't understand your post? Or you didn't understand mine?
Your post stated the wheelbases may vary between body style, I was simply posting the wheelbase dimensions as stated in my HJ factory owners manual. Sorry if I didn't make the post clear enough.
#16
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 21 November 2008 - 08:55 PM
OK, got the shaft back in, on the same marks,jump in
& pull in the clutch downhill- GRROOWWWWLLLL!
Bugger it!
Noticed the new front uni was slightly stiff but I've put them
into customer cars no worse. So I'll pull it tomorrow & see if its
just the caps been installed too far in & its binding the cross.
I'm now kicking my own arse as I had it done by the dodgey place
I spoke of earlier. It was a question of getting it done today & the
others being a cut lunch & water bag away. Havnt been able to work
in months, getting a bit skint. These blokes have stitched me 3 times
now & have developed a bit of a rep.
I've been on & off the tools since 79 but in the last 10 years have
heard not a lot of good about this mob. Bloke I know says he went to talk/
complain about some work done, ended up having an axle or shaft swung
at his head.
Anyway I'll have a look tomorrow at the uni &/or rephasing if it loosens
otherwise its back to these blokes on monday. Have to at least give them the
opportunity to redeem themselves but I to have not had luck previously.
I'll keep an eye out for flying axles anyway!
Jono
& pull in the clutch downhill- GRROOWWWWLLLL!
Bugger it!
Noticed the new front uni was slightly stiff but I've put them
into customer cars no worse. So I'll pull it tomorrow & see if its
just the caps been installed too far in & its binding the cross.
I'm now kicking my own arse as I had it done by the dodgey place
I spoke of earlier. It was a question of getting it done today & the
others being a cut lunch & water bag away. Havnt been able to work
in months, getting a bit skint. These blokes have stitched me 3 times
now & have developed a bit of a rep.
I've been on & off the tools since 79 but in the last 10 years have
heard not a lot of good about this mob. Bloke I know says he went to talk/
complain about some work done, ended up having an axle or shaft swung
at his head.
Anyway I'll have a look tomorrow at the uni &/or rephasing if it loosens
otherwise its back to these blokes on monday. Have to at least give them the
opportunity to redeem themselves but I to have not had luck previously.
I'll keep an eye out for flying axles anyway!
Jono
#17
yel327
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Posted 22 November 2008 - 07:44 PM
Your post stated the wheelbases may vary between body style, I was simply posting the wheelbase dimensions as stated in my HJ factory owners manual. Sorry if I didn't make the post clear enough.
Sorry, I get it now. I knew they were different, I meant that I didn't know if the sedan/coupe being shorter meant that it was more affected (tailshaft angle wise) by a lowered front end that the longer wheelbase models. All good.
#18
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 26 November 2008 - 12:09 PM
Gday, well were back where we started.
Decided to pull the new uni apart & found it
binding only on 1 cap & found a slightly bent
needle roller, obviously had a couple of go's on this cap!
Dumb arses!! I'm not going to name these losers, cant afford
a defamation suite,plus there was a couple of Torries in there
& these blokes might be happy using them. All I'll say is as far
as shafts go VEEM & West Coast havnt SHAFTED me yet.
Change of $13 & I've put a new uni in......sweet as.
Cycled thru my trans mounts again, found another so now
have 4 to choose from, but still only happyish with the lowest
mount.This gives me a very shallow angle at the trans compared
to the angle at the diff but can only judge by eye at this time.
Checked some cars out at the GM Day & the engine mounts seem OK.
ls2lxhatch, mate got your PM, Thanx for the offer & I'll give you a call
soon.
Cheers Jono
Decided to pull the new uni apart & found it
binding only on 1 cap & found a slightly bent
needle roller, obviously had a couple of go's on this cap!
Dumb arses!! I'm not going to name these losers, cant afford
a defamation suite,plus there was a couple of Torries in there
& these blokes might be happy using them. All I'll say is as far
as shafts go VEEM & West Coast havnt SHAFTED me yet.
Change of $13 & I've put a new uni in......sweet as.
Cycled thru my trans mounts again, found another so now
have 4 to choose from, but still only happyish with the lowest
mount.This gives me a very shallow angle at the trans compared
to the angle at the diff but can only judge by eye at this time.
Checked some cars out at the GM Day & the engine mounts seem OK.
ls2lxhatch, mate got your PM, Thanx for the offer & I'll give you a call
soon.
Cheers Jono
#19
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 28 November 2008 - 01:15 PM
Hi, looks like I'm going to have to chase up some adjustable
arms. Just strange that I've run this engine/ trans combo with
both Dana 60 & 9" diffs & didnt experience any problems &
get a vibe when a Salisbury is refitted.
I'm pricing up Whiteline & McDonald Bros arms today & I'll let
youse know the result. Was told about some Eccentric bushes at
$149 but I'd prefer to go for the arms.
ls2lxhatch, mate like I said couldnt believe that digital gauge
would be so cheap. Think I'll be buying 1 when I get back to work,
probably wouldnt use it very much on customer cars but if needed
then its there.
Jono
arms. Just strange that I've run this engine/ trans combo with
both Dana 60 & 9" diffs & didnt experience any problems &
get a vibe when a Salisbury is refitted.
I'm pricing up Whiteline & McDonald Bros arms today & I'll let
youse know the result. Was told about some Eccentric bushes at
$149 but I'd prefer to go for the arms.
ls2lxhatch, mate like I said couldnt believe that digital gauge
would be so cheap. Think I'll be buying 1 when I get back to work,
probably wouldnt use it very much on customer cars but if needed
then its there.
Jono
#20
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 07:40 PM
Hi all, Thought I'd update this thread in case theres any interested.
McDonald Bros arms in & remembering both diff pinion & trans
shafts angles point towards the ground moreso the diff.
With my lowest mount & adjusting the pinion angle to equal the
trans shaft the pinion ends up pointing towards the underbody.
Using the tallest trans mount I have this lowered the pinion angle
a little but no longer points to ground more like horizontal.
Problem is that to achieve 0 degree on the pinion compared to the
trans, the coil springs are now bowed & are touching the shock absorbers
& also taking the slack out of the rubber brake hose to the rear. So I've adjusted
it to 0.7 degree down from the trans to clear the shocks.
Havnt been for a test yet, maybe tomorrow, healths been up & down for a while
& today were on a low. Probly why I cant hold a job for more than a few months but
you get that.
I still think there could be a difference between the RTS & HQ setup but as havnt seen
both arms together cant confirm. But I still have the original 2.78 open Salisbury that
came out of my HQ & seriously thinking about slipping it in to see if the pinion angle
ends up the same as the RTS diff. I will post my findings as these little problems can
really p!ss you about or cost you heaps if you get someone to do it for you & if my
problems give others info to consider then I'm happy to help.
Big Thanx to ls2lxhatch (andy), Mate probly would have gone mental without the use of
your gauge. I know I've had it a few days now but if you need it before I sort this, give us
a call & I'll run it down to you.
Thanx to all who have given their thoughts, its like I say at work,"another persons opinion
or viewed from their eyes could be all you needed".
Cheers Jono
PS: Have a great Xmas & a safe New Years.
McDonald Bros arms in & remembering both diff pinion & trans
shafts angles point towards the ground moreso the diff.
With my lowest mount & adjusting the pinion angle to equal the
trans shaft the pinion ends up pointing towards the underbody.
Using the tallest trans mount I have this lowered the pinion angle
a little but no longer points to ground more like horizontal.
Problem is that to achieve 0 degree on the pinion compared to the
trans, the coil springs are now bowed & are touching the shock absorbers
& also taking the slack out of the rubber brake hose to the rear. So I've adjusted
it to 0.7 degree down from the trans to clear the shocks.
Havnt been for a test yet, maybe tomorrow, healths been up & down for a while
& today were on a low. Probly why I cant hold a job for more than a few months but
you get that.
I still think there could be a difference between the RTS & HQ setup but as havnt seen
both arms together cant confirm. But I still have the original 2.78 open Salisbury that
came out of my HQ & seriously thinking about slipping it in to see if the pinion angle
ends up the same as the RTS diff. I will post my findings as these little problems can
really p!ss you about or cost you heaps if you get someone to do it for you & if my
problems give others info to consider then I'm happy to help.
Big Thanx to ls2lxhatch (andy), Mate probly would have gone mental without the use of
your gauge. I know I've had it a few days now but if you need it before I sort this, give us
a call & I'll run it down to you.
Thanx to all who have given their thoughts, its like I say at work,"another persons opinion
or viewed from their eyes could be all you needed".
Cheers Jono
PS: Have a great Xmas & a safe New Years.
#21
_The Baron_
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Posted 14 December 2008 - 09:35 PM
Hi Jono,
A late start here but I was led to believe there is a difference in the RTS and non RTS rear end setup in the large Holdens.
HQ to HX is NON-RTS and HZ to WB is RTS I believe.(maybe from HX forward)
What the difference is I do not know.
I had a HQ that I swapped from banjo to salisbury and I only changed the diff and tail shaft, so the arms from both HQ diff styles will suit your setup.
Just depends on if the NON-RTS and RTS diff mounts are different and I suspect they are as to if you need to get the HQ diff housing.
Do your self a favour, buy a nice tape measure and go to the wreckers and take all the measurements for free before you spend another dollar. Don't ask the guys here to do it as they may take the measurements form all sorts of points and really confuse you.
Good luck!
A late start here but I was led to believe there is a difference in the RTS and non RTS rear end setup in the large Holdens.
HQ to HX is NON-RTS and HZ to WB is RTS I believe.(maybe from HX forward)
What the difference is I do not know.
I had a HQ that I swapped from banjo to salisbury and I only changed the diff and tail shaft, so the arms from both HQ diff styles will suit your setup.
Just depends on if the NON-RTS and RTS diff mounts are different and I suspect they are as to if you need to get the HQ diff housing.
Do your self a favour, buy a nice tape measure and go to the wreckers and take all the measurements for free before you spend another dollar. Don't ask the guys here to do it as they may take the measurements form all sorts of points and really confuse you.
Good luck!
#22
yel327
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Posted 15 December 2008 - 12:00 AM
Hi Jono,
A late start here but I was led to believe there is a difference in the RTS and non RTS rear end setup in the large Holdens.
HQ to HX is NON-RTS and HZ to WB is RTS I believe.(maybe from HX forward)
What the difference is I do not know.
I had a HQ that I swapped from banjo to salisbury and I only changed the diff and tail shaft, so the arms from both HQ diff styles will suit your setup.
Just depends on if the NON-RTS and RTS diff mounts are different and I suspect they are as to if you need to get the HQ diff housing.
Do your self a favour, buy a nice tape measure and go to the wreckers and take all the measurements for free before you spend another dollar. Don't ask the guys here to do it as they may take the measurements form all sorts of points and really confuse you.
Good luck!
I'm 99% sure the only difference in the rear between RTS and non RTS is the sway bar mounts on the diff and shocks (RTS was introduced in HZ but the front upper control arm mounts started mid HX). The person to ask to get a 100% correct answer is Dr Terry.
I'm also now wondering if you might have a bent diff or axle?
#23
Posted 15 December 2008 - 05:36 AM
I agree with yel327 there is no difference in the rear end geometry, just a sway bar added and some better shocks.
#24
TerrA LX
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Fulcrum Fixture
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Posted 15 December 2008 - 07:50 AM
Ive never had any problems swaping diffs from HX sedan to HQ sedan and then from that HQ was swapped with a HZ wagon.
EDIT; also swapped HJ to HZ sedan, all no problems.
EDIT; also swapped HJ to HZ sedan, all no problems.
Edited by ALX76, 15 December 2008 - 07:53 AM.
#25
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 15 December 2008 - 02:36 PM
Hi all,
also have done diff swaps as you blokes & no problem
so sorta scratching my head on this one.
I've got both diffs here so to give myself peace of mind
& while I've got ls2lxhatch's digital gauge I'll run it over both
to check bracket angles in relation to the pinion.
Would'nt a bent axle or housing produce a constant problem,
mine only vibes at 85/90 k & has improved with the pinion angle
adjustment.
I've still got to test drive it after the last adjustment & have also to
check the horizontal alignment before slipping the shaft back in. Its
just pretty tight getting the gauge in for that angle. Wont be today
though as I feel like crap after the last lot of jacking up,swapping parts
& measuring. Its not that the work is any different than what I do for a
crust but lately it just knocks me for six & leaves me feeling worn out
& sore as. Up to 3 months now & the specialists done have a clue.
I will post whatever I find if anything, even tho other set ups might
require a different solution, the info might help.
Cheers Jono
also have done diff swaps as you blokes & no problem
so sorta scratching my head on this one.
I've got both diffs here so to give myself peace of mind
& while I've got ls2lxhatch's digital gauge I'll run it over both
to check bracket angles in relation to the pinion.
Would'nt a bent axle or housing produce a constant problem,
mine only vibes at 85/90 k & has improved with the pinion angle
adjustment.
I've still got to test drive it after the last adjustment & have also to
check the horizontal alignment before slipping the shaft back in. Its
just pretty tight getting the gauge in for that angle. Wont be today
though as I feel like crap after the last lot of jacking up,swapping parts
& measuring. Its not that the work is any different than what I do for a
crust but lately it just knocks me for six & leaves me feeling worn out
& sore as. Up to 3 months now & the specialists done have a clue.
I will post whatever I find if anything, even tho other set ups might
require a different solution, the info might help.
Cheers Jono
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