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Gut feeling after reading all this is that you're on the right track with the driveshaft/pinion angle, problem being that you can only adjust so far especially if its lowered, ideal isn't always possible. To fix the springs hitting the shocks issue you could install adjustable lower arms as well so that you can get the angle without moving the diff centreline as far.
RTS Question
Started by
_SableMet7/73_
, Nov 19 2008 04:59 PM
30 replies to this topic
#27
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:12 PM
Cheers 76lxhatch, looked at that too but this would still pull the shocks
slightly forward closer to the springs as well, plus their very visible &
the plods would pick em, hence only going for the top arms as they'd
have to grovel around underneathe to spot them, plus was barely able
to afford the top arms at $315 + post, hav'nt been able to work in months
& think the lowers were a fair bit more.
Checked the horizontal angles & OK.
Ran the digital angle gauge over both HQ & RTS diffs & all seems the same
xept for the sway bar mounts but found a difference on the RTS diff in the Q.
LH lower trailing arm bracket is 7 degrees further back than the RH, got the tape
measure out & measured from the trans xmember & is about 8-9mm difference.
Twisted or assembly inaccuracys? Axles & tubes look OK.
The HQs lower brackets are pretty much the same( 0.2 degree difference).
Been a long day & I need beer.
I'll slip the HQ diff back in & check the arms while I'm at it but have owned this since
83 & never had so much as a bump or a knock but worth checking anyway.
Bloody 2.78 diff & 2.20 1st in the Muncie means gonna have to slip the clutch on take
off & the clutch is looking like needs renewing soon anyway. You get that I spose.
Cheers Jono
slightly forward closer to the springs as well, plus their very visible &
the plods would pick em, hence only going for the top arms as they'd
have to grovel around underneathe to spot them, plus was barely able
to afford the top arms at $315 + post, hav'nt been able to work in months
& think the lowers were a fair bit more.
Checked the horizontal angles & OK.
Ran the digital angle gauge over both HQ & RTS diffs & all seems the same
xept for the sway bar mounts but found a difference on the RTS diff in the Q.
LH lower trailing arm bracket is 7 degrees further back than the RH, got the tape
measure out & measured from the trans xmember & is about 8-9mm difference.
Twisted or assembly inaccuracys? Axles & tubes look OK.
The HQs lower brackets are pretty much the same( 0.2 degree difference).
Been a long day & I need beer.
I'll slip the HQ diff back in & check the arms while I'm at it but have owned this since
83 & never had so much as a bump or a knock but worth checking anyway.
Bloody 2.78 diff & 2.20 1st in the Muncie means gonna have to slip the clutch on take
off & the clutch is looking like needs renewing soon anyway. You get that I spose.
Cheers Jono
#28
Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:17 PM
Left is further back than the right? Has to be bent.
I presume you're saying that the adjustments so far haven't fixed the problem? I guess if the bent diff is the one that is causing problems then absolutely anything could be out of whack, could be a bent housing causing the axle to run the bearing crooked.
I presume you're saying that the adjustments so far haven't fixed the problem? I guess if the bent diff is the one that is causing problems then absolutely anything could be out of whack, could be a bent housing causing the axle to run the bearing crooked.
#29
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 16 December 2008 - 07:26 PM
Yeah has improved but theres just a little something there
Hav'nt tested it today, batterys on charge, but will give it a
run tomorrow morning.
Probably why never had a vibe with both Dana 60 & 9".
Anyway I'll test it, swap the diffs & get back to ya's
Jono
Hav'nt tested it today, batterys on charge, but will give it a
run tomorrow morning.
Probably why never had a vibe with both Dana 60 & 9".
Anyway I'll test it, swap the diffs & get back to ya's
Jono
#30
_SableMet7/73_
_SableMet7/73_
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Posted 29 December 2008 - 03:46 PM
Gday all, hope we had a good xmas.
Time to update this thread or leave it alone till I can
get back to work.
Swapped to the 2.7 diff & not much different but found
a few things.
1. I cant live with the 2.7 ratio diff, too tall & speedo's out by20
km\h so I'm driving by the taco. (14x70series tyres @ 1000rpm =25.7mph)
2.The spring that was touching the shock would get more
clearance as I twisted around on its seat so that helped.
3.When adjusting the top arms equally started counting threads
but noticed these werent even so used a Vernier gauge to
measure between the treaded tube ends & just to check ran
a tape measure from mounting bolt to bolt center & found a
5-7mm diference between the 2 arms so now only use this
dimension to adjust.
Probably just a difference in where the holes are drilled or
the lenght in the threaded tube ends. So if your using adjustable
arms I reckomend MEASURING FROM MOUNTING BOLT TO OTHER
MOUNTING BOLT CENTERS.
4.Have 4 trans mounts (47.5,50,52.5&56mm high) & found the 56mm better
but feel that the mount is a little flexable due hieght of the mount. Not that
its in bad nick just the amount of rubber in it.
This has helped get to 0.2 degree & a big improvment from where I started but
still have a slight "shimmy" at 100+. So I'm going back to the 52.5mm mount
with a 3.5mm steel spacer to match the 56mm mount hieght when I get around to it.
Might have to go for the lowered rear springs as this will give me a little more on the
pinion angle but cant see this as an issue as theres only 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" difference from
front to back & I've had cars that were lowered severly at the front & air shocks pumped
up on the rear.
76lxhatch, mate sorry shouldnt have disregarded your suggestion about the lower arms
so quickly as I can see what you mean as in pulling the whole assembly forward & then adjusting.
Just cant afford the lower arms or another shaft right now.
ls2lxhatch, mate thanx again for the lend of your equipment & if I can help when your
sorting yours out just give us a call, got a few mounts you can try if needed.
& thanx to everyone else for your input.
Anyway I've sorta had enough of vibe problems now so I'm going to help el jay 72 tomorrow
with his glass & door equipment instead.
Cheers Jono
PS; Andy found the missfire, bloody carby floats were way out after messing with trans mount hieghts
& after I gave it its once a year wash checked the dizzy, & found the signal rotor had slight corrosion
on it giving a crap signal to the pickup. I run a MSD billet electronic dizzy, bit of emery on the rotor, dizzy
back in & retimed- all good/too easy.
J
Time to update this thread or leave it alone till I can
get back to work.
Swapped to the 2.7 diff & not much different but found
a few things.
1. I cant live with the 2.7 ratio diff, too tall & speedo's out by20
km\h so I'm driving by the taco. (14x70series tyres @ 1000rpm =25.7mph)
2.The spring that was touching the shock would get more
clearance as I twisted around on its seat so that helped.
3.When adjusting the top arms equally started counting threads
but noticed these werent even so used a Vernier gauge to
measure between the treaded tube ends & just to check ran
a tape measure from mounting bolt to bolt center & found a
5-7mm diference between the 2 arms so now only use this
dimension to adjust.
Probably just a difference in where the holes are drilled or
the lenght in the threaded tube ends. So if your using adjustable
arms I reckomend MEASURING FROM MOUNTING BOLT TO OTHER
MOUNTING BOLT CENTERS.
4.Have 4 trans mounts (47.5,50,52.5&56mm high) & found the 56mm better
but feel that the mount is a little flexable due hieght of the mount. Not that
its in bad nick just the amount of rubber in it.
This has helped get to 0.2 degree & a big improvment from where I started but
still have a slight "shimmy" at 100+. So I'm going back to the 52.5mm mount
with a 3.5mm steel spacer to match the 56mm mount hieght when I get around to it.
Might have to go for the lowered rear springs as this will give me a little more on the
pinion angle but cant see this as an issue as theres only 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" difference from
front to back & I've had cars that were lowered severly at the front & air shocks pumped
up on the rear.
76lxhatch, mate sorry shouldnt have disregarded your suggestion about the lower arms
so quickly as I can see what you mean as in pulling the whole assembly forward & then adjusting.
Just cant afford the lower arms or another shaft right now.
ls2lxhatch, mate thanx again for the lend of your equipment & if I can help when your
sorting yours out just give us a call, got a few mounts you can try if needed.
& thanx to everyone else for your input.
Anyway I've sorta had enough of vibe problems now so I'm going to help el jay 72 tomorrow
with his glass & door equipment instead.
Cheers Jono
PS; Andy found the missfire, bloody carby floats were way out after messing with trans mount hieghts
& after I gave it its once a year wash checked the dizzy, & found the signal rotor had slight corrosion
on it giving a crap signal to the pickup. I run a MSD billet electronic dizzy, bit of emery on the rotor, dizzy
back in & retimed- all good/too easy.
J
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