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Commodore booster and Master on LH/X.

Started by _rorym_ , Jan 27 2009 07:23 PM

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144 replies to this topic

#1 _rorym_

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:23 PM

OK..Can someone give me the run down on what to fit and the process?
R

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#2 dattoman

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 07:33 PM

First
Question time

Is it an LH or an LX ?
Does it originally have a straight rod or bent rod to pedal ?

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#3 _rorym_

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Posted 27 January 2009 - 10:07 PM

LX....Hang on.... I will look......no booster...no rod...no idea...read...there is nothing there...I have a hole looking at the brake pedal..
R

Edited by rorym, 27 January 2009 - 10:09 PM.

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#4 _rocket_

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 07:31 AM

I used a VK commodore booster 1 inch M/C. Cut 50mm off the rod welded it back together and it fits perfect.

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#5 Statler

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 08:01 AM

VN V8.
rod is 6mm too long........so i have been told.

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#6 dattoman

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 08:47 AM

All Commodore boosters VB-VR are essentially the same if they are the fat double diaphragm ones
The have almost identical bolt pattern to a Torana one but smaller studs going thru the firewall so they will boilt in

Now the rod on a straight car... all LH and LX till about Dec 76
If its a straight rod one you can cut and reweld the rod straight and it will go onto the Torana
If its a bent rod one its abit harder but not impossible... cut the rods on both boosters and fit the bent one to the Commy booster is an easy way if your not stripping the booster for overhaul
If the booster is apart you can swap the rods

I use P10050 XC/E Falcon master cylinders cause they are 1" and cheaper than 1" Commodore ones

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#7 _rorym_

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Posted 28 January 2009 - 09:04 AM

Its a 77 LX so guessing it is the last one.
R

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#8 _slydog71_

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 06:32 PM

This was my upgrade in 98 maybe might help !

1 RVH346 MR Special upgrade brake booster to suit ford master cylinder
1 P10050 Ford B/M/ Cylinder
1 K8815 Caliper kit
1 BF17 Bleeder repair kit
1 DB2470 caliper piston
3 P4285 tube nuts
3 M202-3 pipe adaptors
3 P555 tube nuts

rorym half of this is not required as I had some other work done at the same time , unsure if part no.s still exist maybe datto (who seems to be the brake guru can verify)

Why did I do this upgrade because I hated seeing the proporting valve in the engine bay now have a similar look to the a9x , pretty anal I know .

My car is a 1977 LX

Edited by slydog71, 29 January 2009 - 06:33 PM.

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#9 _brett_32i_

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Posted 29 January 2009 - 07:03 PM

late uc booster and vr m/cyl bolts straight on.

bent push rod will give you improved pedal ratio. i would advise to lower the push rod on the pedal as much as you can (maybe only 5 or 10mm) to further improve it.

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#10 hatchssv8

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 09:19 PM

Can someone please confirm the input rod length. By my reckoning I get 138mm from booster shell (rear) to the centre of the hole. I am referring to the straight rod not the bent type.

Ytahnks, Max

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#11 dattoman

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 09:25 PM

Yup
Thats right
Or 5.41" in my old PBR books
Same same

The bent rod is also 5.41" but the eye is lower down the pedal by about.... um... approx 8mm.... but someone will have to measure that I don't have a pushrod handy

Edited by dattoman, 02 February 2009 - 09:27 PM.

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#12 hatchssv8

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 09:34 PM

Thanks for the superfast reply

I have shortened the VL booster rod and have threaded it for mm adjustment. Overdone I know but ..............

Thanks Datto

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#13 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 02 February 2009 - 11:06 PM

Yup
Thats right
Or 5.41" in my old PBR books
Same same

The bent rod is also 5.41" but the eye is lower down the pedal by about.... um... approx 8mm.... but someone will have to measure that I don't have a pushrod handy

Which style is better for a 4 wheel disc setup?

I understand that for a given amount of pedal movement the bent pushrod will move further but with less force than the straight pushrod. Is the difference significant?

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#14 _1ARC_

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 10:53 AM

Hi dattoman, I am currently having my LX (bent rod) booster converted to accept a XD master cylinder. I have rear HQ drums and HQ disk rotors machined to fit std configuration. My question is, is there any modification that needs to be done to the master cylinder or any other brake components to ensure that braking is not compromised when the brakes are asked to stop, that is rear lock up. Will the XD proportioning valve crake point be similar to that of the LX configuration. Thanks John

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#15 Statler

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 11:12 AM

Will the XD proportioning valve crake point be similar to that of the LX configuration

We fitted up a XD M/C to the std torana booster years back. There were no mods required to the booster or m/s i can recall.

Ok.....so the memory is a little fuzzy.....but i think the threads for the brake lines are metric, but the tory is imperial?
I remember changing the brake lines, but cant remember why. LOL

We also used an adjustable actuating rod, though i dont think it needed to be adjusted.

The car was subjected to a brake test for rwc......it passed ok.

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#16 dattoman

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 01:19 PM

Both imperial threads
But the old ones won't go into the new master

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#17 _1ARC_

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 02:13 PM

Thanks Neil, I will be picking up the booster and MC this week. I'm relieved that this mod will not cause brakes to fail or lock up rears as I will need to pass this car over pits once project completed. What wont go into the new master?

I intend on having new brake lines made up to suit. How difficult is it to make new brake lines or can you suggest who I can contact. I am in Perth. Thanks

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#18 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:05 PM

Both imperial threads
But the old ones won't go into the new master

For a Torana with HQ discs on the front and HQ drums on the back would you recomend an XD Disc/Drum master or an XD Disc/Disc master?

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#19 dattoman

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 06:56 PM

Same part # for both
P10050 ... so doesn't matter

I used to know a guy who did pipes in Perth... liked Toranas too ... but he closed down

Kim Skim is a mobile disc machinist that has done pipes for people before... he's in Midland but I guess will travel but not too far.

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#20 _rorym_

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:09 PM

I need to re-read all this a bit more.
R

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#21 76lxhatch

That was easy!

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 07:39 PM

Just to throw something else into the equation I thought this bit about using a VX master and booster was interesting:

http://www.aussiev8....ace-brakes.html

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#22 dattoman

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 08:42 PM

That guy talks around it alot... but he's got some things wrong

Like for starters... it doesn't bolt in like he says
Look at Jim's mod page for the changes he had to make to that bracket to fit his VN http://users.bigpond...au/jimbo123/VN/
The flares he got around the wrong way first up then talked back around to the right way second time round

Forget VT stuff its an extra hardship waiting to happen and not going to save you any money
You don't need the bigger master cylinder anyway
The wheels been invented once already

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#23 76lxhatch

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 09:23 PM

Some good pics in that link. What is the 'fast fill' thing they all talk about? I guess I'm mainly curious as to whether a later 1" master would be better than an original HQ/Torana one (or even a VN)

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#24 _rorym_

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Posted 04 February 2009 - 10:43 PM

OK..confused..
Question..if you fit the VB-VR big booster...is the std Holden master cylinder the go for Disc front and rear or do you need the Foord one?
R