LX Torana with a 202 - mods
#51 _mello92_
Posted 02 May 2009 - 08:17 PM
Yea ive noticed that about rents, too. dad is a good help when he wants to be, cause he grew up around these sort of cars, im just starting really...
Fiery ay, thats different. Hope it works out for ya westie.
next year, i'm plannin on working (anywhere automotive based), then after that go to uni. should be able to get some money from the gov' if i go that way.
cheers mate.
Mello
#52 _mello92_
Posted 05 May 2009 - 09:14 PM
1. Horn not working - fixed
2. Exhaust leak at outlet of headers - fixed
3. Park lights not working - fixed
4. Front indicators - fixed
5. Reverse lights - fixed
6. High beam - fixed
7. Exhaust hitting diff - fixed
8. Self cancellers on indicators not working
9. Gearbox rear main leak - fixed
10. Needs mod plate for gearbox and drop tank
Bloody self cancelling springs won't arrive for another week!!! NOT happy. That means I'll have to pay for another RWC too.
The speedo isn't working now and the handbrake light doesn't go off, but I've got a week to fix them. I think the speedo cable may have come out when I took the dash out to find out why the fuel gauge isn't working. Couldn't get the dash out far enough to see why, so it was a complete waste of time......just had a thought...maybe that brake failure wire has come off? Check tomorra.
Cheers
Mello
#53 _LX 76_
Posted 27 May 2009 - 09:40 PM
The speedo isn't working now and the handbrake light doesn't go off, but I've got a week to fix them. I think the speedo cable may have come out when I took the dash out to find out why the fuel gauge isn't working. Couldn't get the dash out far enough to see why, so it was a complete waste of time......just had a thought...maybe that brake failure wire has come off? Check tomorra.
Argh i know the feeling with the dash mate.. its a pain in the bum to work on.. and you usually break something.. lol. I changed ma backlights on the dash to blue neon's that look awesome.. but were a cow to get in.. my speedo, voltemeter and oil pressure guage are the only things working on mine =( got a quote not long ago to refurbish the whole lot.. 500.. that'll come in time..
Keep us posted!
Cheers,
-Westie
#54 _mello92_
Posted 27 May 2009 - 10:50 PM
The dash! Ive only had the car for a few months now and its been out atleast 7 times. Easy as now!
Those self cancelling springs (along with the rest I ordered) took 4 weeks to arrive from the day I ordered them. IMHO, that is really crap service. 4 weeks from Sydney to Ayr!!! Anyone else had problems with American Autos?
The fuel guage is now fixed, was only loose wires behind the cluster.
It turned out that when I pulled the dash out far enough, I pulled the inner speedo cable (the wire inside) out of the gear in the gerabox. Didn't work cause it wasnt connected to anything. So...got underneath the car and pulled the whole cable out of the gearbox. Pushed in inner wire back down the outer cable and put the gear back on the wire. All good so far....After atleast 30mins of trying to put the bolt back in its hole (the speedo cable on an M76 is right above the crossmember, very awkward to get to), I eventually got it in ( ) , then snapped the bolt inside the gearbox. This was at 4.30pm Sunday. Swore my effing head off for 2 mins, punched a few things, was . Rushed to Supercheap in mums wagon to get new bolts. Got home and found that the drill and ease outs were at our farm, 30mins drive away. Rushed to the farm, chatted to dad, got the drill and ease outs and rushed home again. To gain acess to the broken bolt, I had to remove the crossmember and hold the box up with a jack. Drilled and eased out to old one too easy. Put the new one in, took 3 seconds flat. If I have to do this again, the crossmember is definitely coming off! Had to take it for a spin to check if it worked of course (I now know that 2nd gear will go to 80km/h ). By the time everyting was packed up and the car was parked, it was 9:30pm, but f**k I was happy. The more you work on your car, the more you love it!
Also have bought some stuff to clean it up (went on a male shopping spree) but have only had time to wash, chamois and polish all the chrome work. Havn't polished the paint yet. I dunno about anyone else, but Meguiars NXT Generation car wash is awesome! It was a bit expensive, but definitely worth it. It looks like I've polished it when I actually havent, thats how good it came up! Seriously gave it a deep shine. The bumpers came up awesome, as did the rims! Add tyre gel and it looks 3million% better! haha Still haven't cleaned the inside, just dont have time...
Got RWC last Friday, just waiting on QLD rego, should happen this week. The bloke who put the mod plate on decided to use my aircleaner as a bench, so its got heaps of scratches now... But, the amount of looks I got when taking it there and back was phenomenal! Turned heads everywhere hahahaa.
Oh BTW, I forgot that there is one other young bloke in the area that has an LX! His is fairly wild (stage 5 yella terra, big cam, 600 holley, you get the picture) as he's allowed to spend money on it........This bloke works at the same place as a good mate of mine, so he came out when I was talkng to my mate one day and he pretty much got a hard over it. All he said was that 'seeing this makes me want to get mine going again'. Hes had the body derusted and resprayed, engine rebuild etc etc...need to put it back together.
Other than the above, Yr12 is roaring ATM and will continue to do so. Therefore the torana will have to wait till the end of the year untill any major repairs take place.
Will post some new pics when its all cleaned up and has QLD plates on it. Plus some pics of the bad spots.
Cheers for everything so far guys,
Mello
#55 _mello92_
Posted 09 June 2009 - 10:29 PM
Anyways fellas, not updates on much. Got QLD rego, and gave it a quick wash. Thats about it.
Photos from the farm:
Here are the bad spots:
This is the lower rear section of the RHS front guard, has lotsa rust and a big bog cover up. Notice that only one bolt can go in. Replacement section available from Rare Spares.
RHS rear flairs dont really line up. The LHS is worse but idiot here forgot to take a piccy of that side. lol
Notice how the RHS guard has been cut for clearance:
Compare with the LHS guard:
Compare the rear doors:
RHS front door is different to other 3. It has little tab thingys which are for the chrome I think???? Plus it has this:
Rassenger side door, rust at lower front:
Driver side door, rust at lower front:
LHS front guard seems to be crap, its got lotsa bubbles appearing in the section between my fingers, cant really tell here:
Chipped lower dash:
LHS radiator support panel, shots taken from behind grille:
RHS radiator support panel, looks clean but who knows?:
Brake fluid damage, was painted over:
An unpainted underside of the bonnet:
Last one. This shot was taken from inside the boot, looking at the top of the rear light plenum. Mig mire still there, as is the unpainted weld repair, you can still see daylight through the plenum just to the left of the wire:
Theres nothing there too hard to fix I think, from some of the restos on this site, I'd say (without being arrogant) that this should be easy. But once the bog (from the rear 1/4's, around tail lights etc) comes out, I bet I'll change my mind.
Hope that doesnt freeze anyones computer lol. Sorry if it does.
Should also mention that (for the second time) I saw a old bloke driving his LX torana 4dr really slow today. Got a good look at it. Has SL badges, silver rear lights, no flairs, hubcaps, is like a poo brown colour, old black and white number plate that looked 30 years old and it probably is. Looked completely standard to me. Gonna keep him in mind if I want another one. From what I saw it was pretty clean, faded, but there wasnt any visible damage or rust. Who knows? I never knew this car was around town till I saw it during school a few weeks ago.
Cheers fellas.
#56 _mowie_
Posted 10 June 2009 - 11:00 AM
Tom
#57 _tweetytorana_
Posted 10 June 2009 - 02:38 PM
Well all I can say Mello92 is we have matching rust. Mine is gone in all the same places plus the plentium chamber likes to soak the front passenger carpet every time it rains (which is pretty often this past week!)
It's all fixable - nothing terminal
#58 _torriechick_
Posted 10 June 2009 - 05:20 PM
Nice pics,
didnt freeze my puter at all! LOL
#59 _mello92_
Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:39 PM
School is over, so my time has been dedicated to the Torry lately. Regular forum members should remember Ive been playing with SUs for a couple months now, and Ive finally put them on.
So, Ive gone from this:
Then taken this:
Added a heap of time and some $$, and made it like this:
Add more $$ and time and it ends up like this:
Im yet to add up all the invoices, but I expect it to be around $1200. But it idles smoother, revs cleaner and quicker, doesnt load up, and has found some more horsies.
Many thanks to Grant (brocks72xu1) for the carbys, manifolds, filters, fuel block and regulator. Thanks to those who have answered all my questions about these beauties.
Anyone know the going rate for a worn 320 Holley, 2bbl Lynx manifold, and aircleaner? If its not much, I'll just store it.
Cheers.
#60 _mello92_
Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:45 PM
#61
Posted 25 November 2009 - 09:47 AM
Gonna paint the underside of the bonnet now? hehe
#62 _mello92_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 10:16 AM
Its actually very messy and dirty in those photos. I was so stoked that it was working that I wasnt bothered cleaning anything up.
Eeek. Grand total of $1918.
Add $100 worth of polishing gear, a dash mat (yeah I found one, had to get it) and throwover seat covers and Ive spent well over $2000 in the past 2 months or so.
#63
Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:12 PM
#64 _mello92_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:34 PM
Car: $5000
QLD Rego, CTP: $930
Care care products: $400
SU's: $1918
Polishing gear: $130 - wont be buying much of this for a while.
Total: $8378.
Plus a few things for rego and ~$700 in fuel.
Cant think of anything else.
#65 _arsnic_apple_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:40 PM
#66
Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:45 PM
Going through invoices;
Car: $5000
QLD Rego, CTP: $930
Care care products: $400
SU's: $1918
Polishing gear: $130 - wont be buying much of this for a while.
Total: $8378.
Plus a few things for rego and ~$700 in fuel.
Cant think of anything else.
Great budgeting and spending mate! Who says you can't have a muscle car on a budget!
#67 _mello92_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 02:55 PM
SU breakdown;
3x HIF SU carbys, 2x Lynx manifolds, fuel block, regulator, and air filters: $490
Carby centre (various fittings, hose, choke cable, pressure guage): $277
Air filter oil: $33
Other brass fittings for vacuum block: $12.50
Fittings for the fuel block, T-piece, etc: $62.20
Stainless steel for accelerator bracket: $18.45
Choke block: $70.30
3x HIF service kits: $293.70 (they actually gave me 6)
3x OA6 needles: $36.30
Carby synchroniser: $86.90
3x Ramtubes: $132.66
Triple weber linkage kit: $231.50 (chosen for its strength and reliability)
Machining on the 6 faces of the carbs: $136.36
It all adds up.
#68 _torriechick_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 03:21 PM
#69 _mello92_
Posted 25 November 2009 - 04:33 PM
..
The only way to graduate..
Disregard the face Im pulling...
Edited by mello92, 25 November 2009 - 04:34 PM.
#70 _tweetytorana_
Posted 19 December 2009 - 09:21 PM
The SU's look good.
It's a good idea to keep track of expenses until they start to scare ya, I stopped yrs ago when I worked out I had a daily ex-budgie instead of a deposit on a house
#71
Posted 19 December 2009 - 10:39 PM
Like the hatch console and the motor looks good with the tripples and the casties.
How is the performance?
Hard to believe they pass cars with that much rust, we get pinged for alot less than that.
#72 _mello92_
Posted 20 December 2009 - 10:49 AM
Terra - Performance wise, Ive hand timed a high 16sec quarter. That was before getting the triples right. Should shave a bit more off that now since fixing the issues Ive had with them.
The starter motor is out; but I cant get the solenoid apart to see if it just needs a clean or something more drastic. The book Ive got here doesnt make any sense. Will drop off at an auto-lekky tomorrow - unless someone wants to explain how??
Those casties may not be staying much longer - they've almost blown out their second set of gaskets. Im thinking I either get a set of extractors, or, get another exhaust made up. Im leaning towards the second option. By the looks of the one on there at the moment, I dont think the angles correctly line up. But I want a full twin system anyway.
#73
Posted 20 December 2009 - 12:29 PM
#74
Posted 20 December 2009 - 12:56 PM
You will see 2 soldered points on the solenoid cap (plasticy bit).The starter motor is out; but I cant get the solenoid apart unless someone wants to explain how??
You need to unsolder them as there are wires from the solenoid coil entering from behind.
#75 _mello92_
Posted 20 December 2009 - 01:10 PM
Rodomo - Then the cap will come straight off, yeah?
1 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users