Hi guys,new to the site,but so happy i found it,ive owned my lj gtr for about 6yrs (was my first car) and now have finnaly decided to get rid of all my other crap and start my tory.
Okay, well the torana is complete,i want to get it sandblasted and resprayed! Would like to know where in sydney i can get it sandblasted,wether i should do it myself and how much roughly is a good respray,it needs alot of rewelding due to the rust so a while at the panel beaters for a good job is definatley needed an if anyone knows please recommend them to me, i will try and get pics up asap. My main question is,How hard is it to completley strip the car,so its bare shell,no chasis for the respray as thats my goal for my car FULL REBUILD! So please any thoughts ideas recommendations threads on stripping the car ect...
Thanx alot for reading if uve got here!!! Go the tory's
LJ in huge amount of work.
Started by
_celoslj_
, Mar 23 2009 06:45 PM
75 replies to this topic
#2
wot179
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Green Eggs and Spam
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Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:34 PM
Hi guys,new to the site,but so happy i found it,ive owned my lj gtr for about 6yrs (was my first car) and now have finnaly decided to get rid of all my other crap and start my tory.
Okay, well the torana is complete,i want to get it sandblasted and resprayed! Would like to know where in sydney i can get it sandblasted,wether i should do it myself and how much roughly is a good respray,it needs alot of rewelding due to the rust so a while at the panel beaters for a good job is definatley needed an if anyone knows please recommend them to me, i will try and get pics up asap. My main question is,How hard is it to completley strip the car,so its bare shell,no chasis for the respray as thats my goal for my car FULL REBUILD! So please any thoughts ideas recommendations threads on stripping the car ect...
Thanx alot for reading if uve got here!!! Go the tory's
Pulling it apart is the easy part,Celosi.Spending heaps of cash is the other easy part.Find a good beater(can't recommend anyone,sorry)and let them recommend a bead blaster.An industrial sandblaster will ruin your car,dont use one.Soda blasting may be the go.
#3
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:45 PM
Pulling it apart is the easy part,Celosi.Spending heaps of cash is the other easy part.Find a good beater(can't recommend anyone,sorry)and let them recommend a bead blaster.An industrial sandblaster will ruin your car,dont use one.Soda blasting may be the go.
So the hard part is...getting it back together,finding parts..?? Thanx for the comment..
#4
_memorylane-spare-parts_
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Posted 23 March 2009 - 07:47 PM
Soda blasting is the way to go.
ring a few painter get them to look at it see what they thing.
ring a few painter get them to look at it see what they thing.
#5
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 25 March 2009 - 06:44 PM
Okay here are a few pics of the torana,over the years ive done very little work to it as you can see the roof and bonnet got paint stripped, the bonnet and front primered but all done quite bodgy so yea that is why have now decided to completly rebuild, a few pics of the rust,not to clear once i get it out of the garage and progress with dismantling will post more pics and you can decide on how bad the rust is but for now,major is iin under the boot, and both guards under the flutes. Ive gotten quotes for soda blasting and to me i thought was a little pricey but not sure,rough estimates was 3k, i honestly thought would cost about half,but anyway,gota do wat ya gota do...(spend money) haha
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#6
_OtG_
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Posted 25 March 2009 - 07:38 PM
$3k does sound a bit dear but then it might depend on how good he is and what other work is involved (ie will you strip the car or does he have to do it etc)
I know there was a price list floating around here from a sandblasters in Sydney or somewhere and from memory it was about $1500 to do a car.
My car is in at the blasters at the moment (was supposed to be done last week but wasn't done, as of the weekend at least.. grr..) - the bodyworks organised it but his (rough.. verbal...) quote for the respray included "about $2k or so" for blasting. And that was with me delivering the car as a rolling shell - no glass, interior, engine bay completely stripped, etc etc...
I know there was a price list floating around here from a sandblasters in Sydney or somewhere and from memory it was about $1500 to do a car.
My car is in at the blasters at the moment (was supposed to be done last week but wasn't done, as of the weekend at least.. grr..) - the bodyworks organised it but his (rough.. verbal...) quote for the respray included "about $2k or so" for blasting. And that was with me delivering the car as a rolling shell - no glass, interior, engine bay completely stripped, etc etc...
#7
_waz355_
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Posted 25 March 2009 - 08:08 PM
A mate just had a XB coupe blasted and etch primed for $2000. Was given to the blaster as a rolling shell. A lot bigger car than a torrie so compared to that sounds a bit dear.
Good luck with the project!
Good luck with the project!
#8
_celoslj_
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Posted 26 March 2009 - 04:30 PM
Yea i thought the price was just a little tad dear,but yea,he is very well known and sounds good,might have to spend that to get a good job, i will be handing it in as a bare shell,of the chasis,nothing at all in the car! Hope it is cheaper like that
#9
_@milco@_
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Posted 26 March 2009 - 10:23 PM
jesus you guys have pricey blasters up your way down here i got my GTR inside and out sand blasted and etch primed for $500 i supplied the paint ( he sprayed)
#10
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 27 March 2009 - 06:24 AM
jesus you guys have pricey blasters up your way down here i got my GTR inside and out sand blasted and etch primed for $500 i supplied the paint ( he sprayed)
Far out,thats crazy cheap,wish that guys heads do nsw..there has to be another bloke out there that will do a good job and be cheap, but WHERE???
#11
_celoslj_
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Posted 27 March 2009 - 03:36 PM
Far out,thats crazy cheap,wish that guys heads do nsw..there has to be another bloke out there that will do a good job and be cheap, but WHERE???
By the way,how did that job turn out??? Got pics of your project
#12
_lx-304_
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Posted 27 March 2009 - 05:56 PM
its funny this subject came up,im thinking about buying a closed in truck and having a mobile blaster,where i come to your place and do the job.council are giving me the run around at the moment,but have no real reason why i cant do it.do you think this would be a sought after service.i could easly do it for under 1000,no matter what i use to blast.at this stage i would use plastic beads and a vibrator to shake out anything stuck in the cracks.
dave
dave
#13
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 27 March 2009 - 09:09 PM
its funny this subject came up,im thinking about buying a closed in truck and having a mobile blaster,where i come to your place and do the job.council are giving me the run around at the moment,but have no real reason why i cant do it.do you think this would be a sought after service.i could easly do it for under 1000,no matter what i use to blast.at this stage i would use plastic beads and a vibrator to shake out anything stuck in the cracks.
dave
Thats a pretty good idea mate,im sure ud get customers for two main reasons,you come to them,and the price..let me know how you go and yea might be your first customer..by the way,have you blasted before?
#14
_ImperialBlast_
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Posted 02 April 2009 - 01:43 PM
Hi guys, New to the forum and would like to start straight with saying I'm not here to flog my services but I'm more than happy to answer any questions in regards to blasting. So if you guys would like to know anything feel free to shoot me a PM.
I own Imperial Blasting at Newcastle (we do cars from Sydney to Port Macquarie etc).
I'm not saying it's not possible, but I think anyone offering a balst job on a complete car for under $1k might not be delivering you what you really need. There is a couple of things to be wary of when it comes to having your car blasted. 1)What blast media is being used on the car, e.g sand, plastic, soda, garnet, illmenite, steel shot, etc. Each blast media varies in price and can greatly vary in finish. As a general rule, the cheaper the blast media, the more coarse the finish and the more work you need to do to repair the car, along with increasing the risk of panel damage and warping. There is NO way you can soda blast or plastic blast a car for $1000, also the guy who mentioned doing onsite blasting, be really careful as the EPA will eat you for breakfast if you don't go by the book, plus don't try to blast plastic media on site, the stuff is dear as poison and you HAVE to recycle it, so doing it on site will require a mobile blast chamber with full floor and recycling system, those costs thousands and thousands of dollars, so you will need to look at those costs before pricing, not just your immediate overheads on each job. e.g you might only use $500 in materials to do a job, but you have to cover your time, plus your equipement and cover yourself for maintance. I personally have spent close to $100k on setting up my workshop to blast cars only, NO industrial work.
A reasonable price on blasting an LJ would be to me, what we charge. We use a fine crushed glass which will remove all rust, but is still fairly soft so won't harden the panels and leaves the finest profile you can while still removing rust. $800 - $900 for the shell rolling or $1500 if it's done on our rotisserie inc the under carriage. Bolt on panels e.g doors $80ea (gaurds same price for LH, LX, etc). Bonnet & boot would be done with soda blasting $250 boot lid $180. Those prices include a clear coating that will protect the car from rust and still allow you to see and feel the steel so you know what your working on. Those prices should be a good guide for everyone in any area.
Remember soda and plastic blasting will be more expensive due to the higher material cost, however you need to weigh up the advantages vs the cost. If you car has good paint and almost no rust, then either of those options if great, however neither remove rust, so you will then need to have some areas abrasive blasted, many places only do one or the other (many like us do both). You can read a bit more about the differences at our website www.bicarb.com.au
Many cheaper blasters will use a coloured etch primer after blasting, this can be fine, but keep in mind 2 important factors, 1)MOST places will use a cheap industrial etch that has to be washed off with thinners before being painted over, and 2)You have no idea if they missed any paint or rust as by the time you see the car it's all covered in black, grey or red primer. They might be cheaper because they didn't do the job fully and covered it with primer (not saying anyone in particular does that, just keep in in mind).
Anyway as I said I don't want to push our services on a forum, but if you have any blasting questions weather your in Newcastle, Sydney, Melbourne or Perth etc, feel free to drop me a line.
Cheers
Cam
Imperial Blasting
www.bicarb.com.au
I own Imperial Blasting at Newcastle (we do cars from Sydney to Port Macquarie etc).
I'm not saying it's not possible, but I think anyone offering a balst job on a complete car for under $1k might not be delivering you what you really need. There is a couple of things to be wary of when it comes to having your car blasted. 1)What blast media is being used on the car, e.g sand, plastic, soda, garnet, illmenite, steel shot, etc. Each blast media varies in price and can greatly vary in finish. As a general rule, the cheaper the blast media, the more coarse the finish and the more work you need to do to repair the car, along with increasing the risk of panel damage and warping. There is NO way you can soda blast or plastic blast a car for $1000, also the guy who mentioned doing onsite blasting, be really careful as the EPA will eat you for breakfast if you don't go by the book, plus don't try to blast plastic media on site, the stuff is dear as poison and you HAVE to recycle it, so doing it on site will require a mobile blast chamber with full floor and recycling system, those costs thousands and thousands of dollars, so you will need to look at those costs before pricing, not just your immediate overheads on each job. e.g you might only use $500 in materials to do a job, but you have to cover your time, plus your equipement and cover yourself for maintance. I personally have spent close to $100k on setting up my workshop to blast cars only, NO industrial work.
A reasonable price on blasting an LJ would be to me, what we charge. We use a fine crushed glass which will remove all rust, but is still fairly soft so won't harden the panels and leaves the finest profile you can while still removing rust. $800 - $900 for the shell rolling or $1500 if it's done on our rotisserie inc the under carriage. Bolt on panels e.g doors $80ea (gaurds same price for LH, LX, etc). Bonnet & boot would be done with soda blasting $250 boot lid $180. Those prices include a clear coating that will protect the car from rust and still allow you to see and feel the steel so you know what your working on. Those prices should be a good guide for everyone in any area.
Remember soda and plastic blasting will be more expensive due to the higher material cost, however you need to weigh up the advantages vs the cost. If you car has good paint and almost no rust, then either of those options if great, however neither remove rust, so you will then need to have some areas abrasive blasted, many places only do one or the other (many like us do both). You can read a bit more about the differences at our website www.bicarb.com.au
Many cheaper blasters will use a coloured etch primer after blasting, this can be fine, but keep in mind 2 important factors, 1)MOST places will use a cheap industrial etch that has to be washed off with thinners before being painted over, and 2)You have no idea if they missed any paint or rust as by the time you see the car it's all covered in black, grey or red primer. They might be cheaper because they didn't do the job fully and covered it with primer (not saying anyone in particular does that, just keep in in mind).
Anyway as I said I don't want to push our services on a forum, but if you have any blasting questions weather your in Newcastle, Sydney, Melbourne or Perth etc, feel free to drop me a line.
Cheers
Cam
Imperial Blasting
www.bicarb.com.au
#15
_celoslj_
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Posted 02 April 2009 - 10:04 PM
Hey,thanx for that,helps me and alot of those that are curious on blasting there cars. On ebay theres a cheap sand blasting pot,i was thinking of buying it and then buying the blast media and have a go on some parts that i have double (incase is alot harder than what it looks) Is this worth a try,where could i buy the blast media
#16
_ImperialBlast_
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Posted 04 April 2009 - 07:52 AM
Hey, one of those small blast units are deffinately handy around the garage, though don't plan to take on anything too big. Most peoples sanity would limit the job to small brackets, door hinges, minor rust patches, etc. To do a full gaurd would take you an hour or two (each side). Some are a little quickier, just depends on the size of the blast pot.
If you get one big enough to do panels keep in mind a golden rule, "no mater how tempting, NEVER concentrate on one spot for more than 1 or 2 secs (literally), the steel will heat up very quickly and can be enough to distort your panel, do multiple light passes to acheive the desired finish, you can't rush or you will end up with more repair time than you started with".
If your wanting to just do small spot repairs I've found the best blaster to buy is one of those small hand held gun units (sort of look like a mini paintball gun). They are a LOT more effective than the syphon type where you stick a hose in a bucket of sand as thsoe clog up and are generally pretty crappy. You can find the hand held guns on ebay for around $70, well worthwhile. We actually have one in our workshop for doing small items that are too dangerous to hold by hand or can't be wired to a rack.
You can buy blast media in small buckets from Supercheap auto, though it's generally Illmenite, which really isn't that good for removing rust as it's superfine.
If you look in your local phone book there should be either a Burwell, or Blastmaster agent hopefully not too far away. They sell media in bags from 20kg, upto 2Ton. The 20kg bags vary in price depending what you get. But if your just doing small bits at home, got for a 80 grit Garnet (approx $30 or maybe less) as that will cut best in a small cabinet or small blast pot. If you use a full size blast pot like we do, the 80 grit is a bit coarse for exterior panels due to the higher pressure and volume.
Don't bother buying soda as it won't work in a regular cheap blast pot (you will go through it WAY too quick) and it's upto $90 per bag.
Cheers
Cam
Imperial blasting
www.bicarb.com
If you get one big enough to do panels keep in mind a golden rule, "no mater how tempting, NEVER concentrate on one spot for more than 1 or 2 secs (literally), the steel will heat up very quickly and can be enough to distort your panel, do multiple light passes to acheive the desired finish, you can't rush or you will end up with more repair time than you started with".
If your wanting to just do small spot repairs I've found the best blaster to buy is one of those small hand held gun units (sort of look like a mini paintball gun). They are a LOT more effective than the syphon type where you stick a hose in a bucket of sand as thsoe clog up and are generally pretty crappy. You can find the hand held guns on ebay for around $70, well worthwhile. We actually have one in our workshop for doing small items that are too dangerous to hold by hand or can't be wired to a rack.
You can buy blast media in small buckets from Supercheap auto, though it's generally Illmenite, which really isn't that good for removing rust as it's superfine.
If you look in your local phone book there should be either a Burwell, or Blastmaster agent hopefully not too far away. They sell media in bags from 20kg, upto 2Ton. The 20kg bags vary in price depending what you get. But if your just doing small bits at home, got for a 80 grit Garnet (approx $30 or maybe less) as that will cut best in a small cabinet or small blast pot. If you use a full size blast pot like we do, the 80 grit is a bit coarse for exterior panels due to the higher pressure and volume.
Don't bother buying soda as it won't work in a regular cheap blast pot (you will go through it WAY too quick) and it's upto $90 per bag.
Cheers
Cam
Imperial blasting
www.bicarb.com
#17
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 07 April 2009 - 11:40 PM
Hey guys, some more pics of my slow progress on stripping my troy for its make over. Doors are out,took alot longer than i thought,pins were rusted but when heated up,they gave in. Engine was removed BY HAND,me and a mate lifted it by hand as my engine crane was at a mates house and i just couldnt wait,I SHOULD HAVE WAITED it was heavy!! By next weekend,gearbox,diff,tailshaft,ect will be gone and then its just removing the cradle or whatever the car sits on,springs and all that shit shouldnt be too hard but yea,will be posting more pics. If anyone has ideas,recomendations or ANYTHING let me know,im going to get it sand blasted soon and then beated so shes brand spanking! CANT WAIT
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Edited by celoslj, 07 April 2009 - 11:42 PM.
#18
_celoslj_
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Posted 12 April 2009 - 11:36 PM
Okay guys,i have the tory now fully stripped, wasnt as hard as i thought, but after stripping it,i can now see tha headaches i will have puting it all together,let alone finding everything i need. I have it now bare shell just sitting in front of my garage,i will be sending it to get blasted very soon,and then to a panel beater,anyone know a real good one,i want them to fix the rust properly,not just fill with bog! Any recomendations,ive heard hg smash repairs,anything else? Here are some pics..cant wait till its all in primer and waiting for paint!!!! Im getting my old man to make me a rotisserie,is the simplest way two engine stands? Is it worth making, its so that once its painted,easy to work with and remantling..but i dont plan on painting it or doing panel work
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#19
_gtr161s_
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Posted 13 April 2009 - 05:05 PM
Thats a pretty good body to start with.
Once its stripped then you can see the real rust.
Once its stripped then you can see the real rust.
#20
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 16 April 2009 - 07:54 PM
Thats a pretty good body to start with.
Once its stripped then you can see the real rust.
Haha thanx, but i found out your right,i have now paint stripped some areas and gees...what have i found,rust and BOG! Will be posting pics up soon,trying to strip most of what i can and blast some areas..
#21
_johnharte_
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Posted 28 April 2009 - 01:28 PM
Any updates - Did you find your blaster and panel beater?
John
John
#22
Ruts
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Posted 28 April 2009 - 03:06 PM
If you need a good, VERY GOOD panel beater let me know as I have a friend who works from home and is the best I know (next to me of course).
Ruts.
Ruts.
#23
_gtr161s_
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Posted 28 April 2009 - 07:55 PM
A mate just had a XB coupe blasted and etch primed for $2000. Was given to the blaster as a rolling shell. A lot bigger car than a torrie so compared to that sounds a bit dear.
Good luck with the project!
Just curious as to whether any of the cars blasted in this thread were on rotissories or are they outer body paint, engine bay and boot done ??
Prices sound high if you don't include doing underneath...and why wouldnt you get under done ?
#24
_Squarepants_
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Posted 29 April 2009 - 03:56 PM
Celo, looks like you've got yourself a good starting point there with that GTR. You're pretty brave going for the complete resto when it seems you don't have too much experience in doing this sort of thing (forgive me if I'm wrong). However, it's good to see you're going all out and not just doing the bodgy on it! Nice work!
There's not too many Tory's out there that don't come with rust and bog (they could have been factory options, I reckon) so don't be discouraged with what you find under the shiny duco. Keep your eye on the prize mate, and you'll have an awesome machine worth (nearly) as many dollars as what you spent. (We all know it's not about the dollars, you wouldn't do it if you didn't love it!)
There are some threads/posts here about rotisseries, have a bit of a search. 2 engine stands would prolly do, maybe... I reckon I'd do some re-enforcing on them though. Would they be high enough???
There's not too many Tory's out there that don't come with rust and bog (they could have been factory options, I reckon) so don't be discouraged with what you find under the shiny duco. Keep your eye on the prize mate, and you'll have an awesome machine worth (nearly) as many dollars as what you spent. (We all know it's not about the dollars, you wouldn't do it if you didn't love it!)
There are some threads/posts here about rotisseries, have a bit of a search. 2 engine stands would prolly do, maybe... I reckon I'd do some re-enforcing on them though. Would they be high enough???
#25
_celoslj_
_celoslj_
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Posted 29 April 2009 - 05:07 PM
If you need a good, VERY GOOD panel beater let me know as I have a friend who works from home and is the best I know (next to me of course).
Ruts.
Hey,sounds good,pretty interested,how far is bargo from sydney,ive got a car trailer so i dont mind going for a drive and seeing what he thinks. Give me a name and number and ill give him a call.
Thanx
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