A look through the Bosch catalogue shows XE V8 (electronic, uses the same module as Holden) rotor button as part no. GB786 and is common to other Ford/Bosch dissys (inc. 6 cyl) around that era so should be easy to find.
Electric Dizzy
Started by
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
, Oct 12 2009 06:42 PM
45 replies to this topic
#26
rodomo
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Posted 27 February 2010 - 01:25 PM
#27
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
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Posted 27 February 2010 - 02:08 PM
The rotor button is easy to get from any auto shop. Cant remember what Ford model it is from, someone on here will know! Think it might be an XD.... The new coil has a different end on it compared to the points one. Easy to test, just attach the lead from your old dizzy cap to the new coil and see if it fits.
no worries il look into it, thanks for the help Cheers Waz
#28
_Gunmetal LH_
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Posted 28 February 2010 - 08:29 PM
I was under the impression the base was a straight swap from the points system?
I have a red points dizzy (V8) in front of me. The shaft is 10mm thick and sticks up above the body around 20mm (looks the same as yours) the rotor button is pn: 9 231 064 300
Too dark and too many spiders to look at 1 on the car now. Tried searching for the rotor part no. to see what else bosch lists but google seems to have s#!t itself?
I'll have a look tomorrow if you'd like?
I have a red points dizzy (V8) in front of me. The shaft is 10mm thick and sticks up above the body around 20mm (looks the same as yours) the rotor button is pn: 9 231 064 300
Too dark and too many spiders to look at 1 on the car now. Tried searching for the rotor part no. to see what else bosch lists but google seems to have s#!t itself?
I'll have a look tomorrow if you'd like?
#29
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Posted 01 March 2010 - 07:28 PM
That would be good gunmetal, il check mine tomorow n confere Cheers
#30
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Posted 02 March 2010 - 02:51 PM
Checked my 'in car' dizzy, same number on rotor button on a 'red' base.
#31
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
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Posted 04 March 2010 - 06:53 PM
good to hear mine fitted but was a little bit loose, and the same leads match from coil to cap, so its a straight swap it seems, il wait n c what terra LX turns up with
#32
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Posted 05 March 2010 - 02:49 PM
A look through the Bosch catalogue shows XE V8 (electronic, uses the same module as Holden) rotor button as part no. GB786 and is common to other Ford/Bosch dissys (inc. 6 cyl) around that era so should be easy to find.
This is the part you need.
FWIW the champion effort I used is no where near the quallity of a genuine Bosch part.
#33
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Posted 08 March 2010 - 05:13 PM
sounds good terra, thats the only change to made then? any tips on the conversion? or is it change over n start up?
#34
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Posted 08 March 2010 - 06:35 PM
1. If you are using the standard coil position and the cylinder type coil (be it points or HEI coil) you may find the wires a tad short to position the dizzy on a red motor as the inlet manifold is shaped slightly different.
2. As above you may also find it impossible to position the cylinder one scribe mark in the factory position, this is not a problem if the motor is timed correctly (ie, replace dizzy rotor pointing to cylinder one with the motor on TDC no.1) then replace the cap and re route the spark leads accordingly.
3. You may find that the cap clips are rather tight on the smaller cap, if you don't like this it looks the fix is to swap the points dizzy clips over to the HEI dizzy.
2. As above you may also find it impossible to position the cylinder one scribe mark in the factory position, this is not a problem if the motor is timed correctly (ie, replace dizzy rotor pointing to cylinder one with the motor on TDC no.1) then replace the cap and re route the spark leads accordingly.
3. You may find that the cap clips are rather tight on the smaller cap, if you don't like this it looks the fix is to swap the points dizzy clips over to the HEI dizzy.
#35
_JadeGreenLHSLR_
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Posted 08 March 2010 - 07:23 PM
good stuff, hows this sound?
1 Got both coils, and the wires r nackered so il repleace them ne ways, if the HEI is better il use it?
2 plan is, old dizzy out, new one in, so that shouldn't be a problem with timing?
1 Got both coils, and the wires r nackered so il repleace them ne ways, if the HEI is better il use it?
2 plan is, old dizzy out, new one in, so that shouldn't be a problem with timing?
#36
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Posted 13 March 2010 - 02:19 PM
Another thing, the coil has four wires coming of it, two that go to the dizzy, orange and green that i have replaced, the green one (-) has a black one thats crimped in the same lug, looks like it maight have a ballast resister or somethine in it, and on the orange one (+) there is a black one, is this the condensor?
whats the story?
Dizzy 002.jpg 1.98MB
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whats the story?
Dizzy 002.jpg 1.98MB
10 downloads
#37
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 01:31 AM
Another thing, the coil has four wires coming of it, two that go to the dizzy, orange and green that i have replaced, the green one (-) has a black one thats crimped in the same lug, looks like it maight have a ballast resister or somethine in it, and on the orange one (+) there is a black one, is this the condensor?
whats the story?
Hi Warren
Holden Improved Performance 6&V8 manual shows two wires go to (+) on coil, one is 12v from ignition switch the other wire goes to terminal 15 on dizzy electronic control module (book doesn't say which colour is which). (-) wire from coil goes to terminal 16 on electronic control module. I do remember there was also a short lead with a tube type female connector that is for connection of the tachometer, just cant remember if it was on the + or - at the coil. Note that the HEI ignition needs 12V power to operate properly and spark plugs should be set to 1.5mm gap. This means bypassing/replacing the existing resistance wire from the ignition switch to the coil with a new wire.
Hope this is of some help
Dave
#38
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Posted 14 March 2010 - 11:31 AM
The green wire goes to the Negative of coil and is connected to lug 16 on the module. This is where tacho connects too.
The Pink wire is +12V wire and connected to Positive of coil and is lug 15 on the module. Condensor connects here too.
The Pink wire is +12V wire and connected to Positive of coil and is lug 15 on the module. Condensor connects here too.
#39
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Posted 15 March 2010 - 05:10 PM
Right, the green is ok n pink is ok, can i use the points condenser? or is it different? and the tacho wire? is that in the original LH loom or do i have to run it, its got a Vac advance if that makes ne difference? Cheers Waz
#40
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 02:04 AM
Right, the green is ok n pink is ok, can i use the points condenser? or is it different? and the tacho wire? is that in the original LH loom or do i have to run it, its got a Vac advance if that makes ne difference? Cheers Waz
Hey Warrem
HEI systems don't use a condensor, I think he means an ignition noise suppressor so you can listen to your radio without the whirr sound.
The female bullet connector (which should be on the lead connected to the negative coil connection) is for the tachometer, I always used to connect the Fluke Multimeter (RPM function) to that connector when tuning.
Don't know about the tacho wire being in harness or not. If your car has a tachometer installed then you would have disconnected the wire from the old coil. If you don't have a tacho you don't have to worry about it. If you want to install a tacho you may have to run a wire.
Connect the vac advance just the same as your old points dizzy.
Cheers
Dave.
Edited by S pack, 17 March 2010 - 02:05 AM.
#41
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 04:59 PM
Ok, so the tacho wire is there, already connected to the old coil,thats good! Sounds like its just a wire for wire swap, except for the condenser then?
Cheers Waz
P.S got a fluke too
Cheers Waz
P.S got a fluke too
#42
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 09:35 PM
Yep, sounds too easy. Forget about the condensor, HEI ignition don't have one.
Also spark plug gap = 1.5mm
The Fluke multimeter is great, cost an arm and a leg but couldn't live without it.
PS: As oldjohhno said on another thread, be careful when working around the high tension leads (while engine is running) on engines with HEI ignition as they will give you quite a good boot.
I learned the hard way, once only though, don't wear any rings, a watch or other jewellery.
Cheers
Dave
Also spark plug gap = 1.5mm
The Fluke multimeter is great, cost an arm and a leg but couldn't live without it.
PS: As oldjohhno said on another thread, be careful when working around the high tension leads (while engine is running) on engines with HEI ignition as they will give you quite a good boot.
I learned the hard way, once only though, don't wear any rings, a watch or other jewellery.
Cheers
Dave
#43
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 10:42 PM
IMO if you are running the small cap try standard plugs first, there are alot of advantages in running a smaller gap but there is no real advantage in going to a 1.5mm gap unless you run lean.
If you are getting shocks from the system then there is a leak.
If you are getting shocks from the system then there is a leak.
#44
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Posted 17 March 2010 - 11:47 PM
If you are getting shocks from the system then there is a leak.
Well yes, there is no such thing as the perfect insulator, a shock is possible even through the best set of brand new leads on the market if conditions are right.
mechanics 101, dont touch leads while the motor is running.
#45
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 01:40 AM
My Kingswood was bearable to hold the leads (points dizzy) while it was running. JUST DON'T LEAN ON ANYTHING ELSE METAL!
Later systems have a much bigger kick though- hence the name, High Energy Ignition...
I always ran 0.9mm plug gap. Would run like crap or be hard to start if anything different?
HEI system would handle a bigger gap no worries.
I found a good visual test for leads is to run the engine when it's pitch black and give it a rev. If your leads look like a 'plasma ball' along them, then they're shot.
Later systems have a much bigger kick though- hence the name, High Energy Ignition...
I always ran 0.9mm plug gap. Would run like crap or be hard to start if anything different?
HEI system would handle a bigger gap no worries.
I found a good visual test for leads is to run the engine when it's pitch black and give it a rev. If your leads look like a 'plasma ball' along them, then they're shot.
#46
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Posted 18 March 2010 - 07:39 PM
If you are getting shocks from the system then there is a leak.
Well yes, there is no such thing as the perfect insulator, a shock is possible even through the best set of brand new leads on the market if conditions are right.
This condition is also made worse by running too larger gap, high compression and a small cap.
Also cleanliness is imperative, especially in the thread and lead ends.
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