Hey guys, help me out. There seems to be some hype on the site about the Tags and what they mean and then the vehicle gets modded drpping in non original configuration. I am looking to buy a 77 or 76 LX hatch. 253 4 speed. Memories from my youth before an encounter with a ROO (ROO - 1 CAR - 0) Totalled. My question is should I be paying more for a hatch that is a genuine (determined from compliance plates) rather than buy a Hatch that was originally not ??
Value of Hatch relative to tag
Started by
_Mid Life Crisis_
, Oct 18 2009 08:00 AM
30 replies to this topic
#2
Evan
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 08:08 AM
For sure there is more value in factory v8 and SS hatches. As with any ss commodore or any performance model cars.
Buyers do prefer original, non modified Torana's , but if the mods are reversible it can be woth more.
It all really depend on the buyer and what they want.
Good luck with your search.
Evan.
Buyers do prefer original, non modified Torana's , but if the mods are reversible it can be woth more.
It all really depend on the buyer and what they want.
Good luck with your search.
Evan.
#3
_Mid Life Crisis_
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 08:30 AM
For sure there is more value in factory v8 and SS hatches. As with any ss commodore or any performance model cars.
Buyers do prefer original, non modified Torana's , but if the mods are reversible it can be woth more.
It all really depend on the buyer and what they want.
Good luck with your search.
Evan.
Hey Ev, thanks for the quick response.
Given that I am looking for a project, one that is complete that needs to be stripped back and rebuilt, If I read you right, If I was looking at two comparable units both with 253, 4 speeds and one was originally a 6 and had the 253 dropped in, and the other was original, I should be prepared to pay a little more for the original ??
Any ideas on what people are paying for 76 / 77 LX hatch 253, 4 speed projects (Complete units), I have had a look at places like e-bal and this site and it would appear that between 5 and 10 is fair, ........your thoughts ????
Edited by Mid Life Crisis, 18 October 2009 - 08:31 AM.
#4
dattoman
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 11:23 AM
You'd pay alittle more for the V8 one if its factory
If your buying a basket case to fix up you might find something in that price range... but probably rusty and abit sad
Certainly no SS's around for that sort of money
Doesn't matter what it costs really... if its something you want and plan to keep then the value is in your head not on paper
Buy it... build it... enjoy it
If your buying a basket case to fix up you might find something in that price range... but probably rusty and abit sad
Certainly no SS's around for that sort of money
Doesn't matter what it costs really... if its something you want and plan to keep then the value is in your head not on paper
Buy it... build it... enjoy it
#5
_Mid Life Crisis_
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 01:17 PM
You'd pay alittle more for the V8 one if its factory
If your buying a basket case to fix up you might find something in that price range... but probably rusty and abit sad
Certainly no SS's around for that sort of money
Doesn't matter what it costs really... if its something you want and plan to keep then the value is in your head not on paper
Buy it... build it... enjoy it
Thanks, that is my intention
But don't want to get ripped off either.
What do you reckon this is worth
http://cgi.ebay.com....e=STRK:MEWAX:IT
I am seriously considering it
#6
dattoman
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 02:02 PM
Considering the obvious rust its already over what I would pay for it
However if your handy with a welder and like a challenge... and can pick up some new rear quarters... go for it
Most of the rusty bits can be replaced... but bear in mind your probably looking at over $10k worth of panel work before you even think of paint
So wouldn't the cash be better spent once you find a better shell ?
However if your handy with a welder and like a challenge... and can pick up some new rear quarters... go for it
Most of the rusty bits can be replaced... but bear in mind your probably looking at over $10k worth of panel work before you even think of paint
So wouldn't the cash be better spent once you find a better shell ?
#7
_Mid Life Crisis_
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 03:03 PM
Considering the obvious rust its already over what I would pay for it
However if your handy with a welder and like a challenge... and can pick up some new rear quarters... go for it
Most of the rusty bits can be replaced... but bear in mind your probably looking at over $10k worth of panel work before you even think of paint
So wouldn't the cash be better spent once you find a better shell ?
Thanks for the advice.... I did not realise how much panel work and rust removal might cost. I initially thought that it would relatively easy to cut the rust out and weld (with the help of my brother in law). Obviously a lot more work and $$$ than I thought.
#8
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 06:53 PM
I agree with Datto. Already hit its feasible price....
#9
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 07:45 PM
Yeah that car is very rusty, it would have to be blasted to see the full extent especially around the roof as its a hard area to mend.
My suggestion would be patient and keep a look out on sites like carsales, trading post, car point etc.
Also you need to get a rough budget and know what your intentions will the car is its quite easy to get carried away and there is many, so called hidden costs for people with little experience, as I was before I started my project.
But in saying all this negative shit, I am so happy with the outcome of my car and it has definately been worth it despite the costs and time.
Youngy
My suggestion would be patient and keep a look out on sites like carsales, trading post, car point etc.
Also you need to get a rough budget and know what your intentions will the car is its quite easy to get carried away and there is many, so called hidden costs for people with little experience, as I was before I started my project.
But in saying all this negative shit, I am so happy with the outcome of my car and it has definately been worth it despite the costs and time.
Youngy
#10
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 08:04 PM
Thanks Youngy,
I am only just down the road in Nowra so if you see or hear of anything local give me a yell.
Yes you are right, I was going to get all carried away in the emotion of getting something.......anything even. I have a top limit of 10K..... Do you think I should be able to pick up a reasonable LX hatch 253 4 speed project for that ??? I would really like to get my hands dirty so I can really make it mine...... not looking for an investment... more to do with the passion
I am only just down the road in Nowra so if you see or hear of anything local give me a yell.
Yes you are right, I was going to get all carried away in the emotion of getting something.......anything even. I have a top limit of 10K..... Do you think I should be able to pick up a reasonable LX hatch 253 4 speed project for that ??? I would really like to get my hands dirty so I can really make it mine...... not looking for an investment... more to do with the passion
#11
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 08:09 PM
try on here man lots of cars an stuff for sale, some with the hard work done if u got the dosh
#12
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 18 October 2009 - 08:27 PM
Your a couple of weeks late, there was a project hatch down in Vincentia, but has sold now. Was $3k from a member on here.
#13
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Posted 19 October 2009 - 03:56 PM
thanks, yeah I actually went and had a look at it, it was a little beyond my capabilities, just bare rolling shell and bare 253. nothing else.
I will keep my eye open,
I see the one on e-bay is up to 7k.......
would you beleive it he had it on ebay as well and it sold but the buyer has failed to front with the $$$$$. Thats the second time
I will keep my eye open,
I see the one on e-bay is up to 7k.......
thanks, yeah I actually went and had a look at it, it was a little beyond my capabilities, just bare rolling shell and bare 253. nothing else.
I will keep my eye open,
I see the one on e-bay is up to 7k.......
would you beleive it he had it on ebay as well and it sold but the buyer has failed to front with the $$$$$. Thats the second time
#14
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Posted 19 October 2009 - 11:31 PM
If your looking for Hatch I would not worry about where its an original factory V8.
With the varying condition of bodies, I would find a good bodied one, even if its a 4 or 6cyl.
With the varying condition of bodies, I would find a good bodied one, even if its a 4 or 6cyl.
#15
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Posted 20 October 2009 - 08:19 AM
Yeah Dave I think you would be able to find a good bodied project Hatch for less than 10k.
I know thats your budget for the car but whats your overall budget?
i.e. engine rebuild, gearbox reco, will you be keeping original diff or converting to another diff, suspension mods, new bushes, interior work, what wheels, brake upgrade?
Theres plenty of things too think about and if you can get a image of what you want now, you will be able to get a rough overall budget with the help of some forum members.
Youngy
I know thats your budget for the car but whats your overall budget?
i.e. engine rebuild, gearbox reco, will you be keeping original diff or converting to another diff, suspension mods, new bushes, interior work, what wheels, brake upgrade?
Theres plenty of things too think about and if you can get a image of what you want now, you will be able to get a rough overall budget with the help of some forum members.
Youngy
#16
Heath
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Posted 20 October 2009 - 09:21 AM
To answer the original question. You should be willing to pay more for an original car if you think that it's worth more. lol you don't have to pretend it's worth more because others say it is. I personally wouldn't pay any more for a 253 SL than I would for a Starfire powered Sunbird if they were in the same condition. A factory five litre on the other hand is something I believe is a bit more special, but some people wouldn't give a toss about that either.
Go with what you feel, but yes some buyers will expect more money for a factory tagged 253 etc.
Go with what you feel, but yes some buyers will expect more money for a factory tagged 253 etc.
#17
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Posted 20 October 2009 - 10:03 AM
Yeah, a factory tagged 253 SL ain't that much more special than a 202 powered one... At the end of the day, your going to put in another motor anyway!
I would just be looking for the hatchback available with the best body! If you do lots of work yourself, you can certainly do things on a tight budget. But you will be spending all your weekends on it, and need to very patient, waiting for things to come up
I would just be looking for the hatchback available with the best body! If you do lots of work yourself, you can certainly do things on a tight budget. But you will be spending all your weekends on it, and need to very patient, waiting for things to come up
#18
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Posted 20 October 2009 - 12:57 PM
Mate IN MY OPPINION the tags are worth nothing.
I personally buy cars because i like them and with the intention of modding the f*ck out of them. If you spend $20k on engine driveline etc then its not going to matter what the tags say, unless you intend to keep it completely original then theres no point going by the tags.
Converting from an auto six to a manual eight is a LOT easyer than rebuilding a rusted out shell.
Everything is bolt in with these things, bar a couple of very small considerations, so motor box etc wont matter.
Cheers.
I personally buy cars because i like them and with the intention of modding the f*ck out of them. If you spend $20k on engine driveline etc then its not going to matter what the tags say, unless you intend to keep it completely original then theres no point going by the tags.
Converting from an auto six to a manual eight is a LOT easyer than rebuilding a rusted out shell.
Everything is bolt in with these things, bar a couple of very small considerations, so motor box etc wont matter.
Cheers.
#19
_Mid Life Crisis_
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Posted 21 October 2009 - 06:45 PM
So much Help
My budget for the completion is not specified, it will be what it will be, well as much as the other half allows it to be. LOL
I would like to get a nice straight unit and put a stock 253 4 speed in it no flares or (sticky out bits) so I will wait. and not worry to much about the tags.
I assume that there is no issues with registration if you convert from auto 6 to manual 8 ???
My budget for the completion is not specified, it will be what it will be, well as much as the other half allows it to be. LOL
I would like to get a nice straight unit and put a stock 253 4 speed in it no flares or (sticky out bits) so I will wait. and not worry to much about the tags.
I assume that there is no issues with registration if you convert from auto 6 to manual 8 ???
#20
Heath
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Posted 21 October 2009 - 08:55 PM
Yep no issues with that. Keep your eyes peeled for a good body and don't hesitate to ask a forum member to have a geeze at it before you commit. It's amazing how quickly you can spot problems on a Torana after building one hehe
#21
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Posted 22 October 2009 - 05:08 PM
Yeah sounds good dave.
As Heath said let me know if your looking at one locally and ill come and have a look with you.
Well as you said I reckon you should be able to get away with having the project on the road for around the 20k mark if you do alot yourself and the help of the panel beater contact.
Car 10k max with decent engine, 4-5k panel work and paint, 2-3k redone interior. Very rough figures for a decent rebuild.
No I don't think there is any issues with rego as the model of car came out with the 253, i.e no need for engineering just usual blue slip inspection.
Youngy
As Heath said let me know if your looking at one locally and ill come and have a look with you.
Well as you said I reckon you should be able to get away with having the project on the road for around the 20k mark if you do alot yourself and the help of the panel beater contact.
Car 10k max with decent engine, 4-5k panel work and paint, 2-3k redone interior. Very rough figures for a decent rebuild.
No I don't think there is any issues with rego as the model of car came out with the 253, i.e no need for engineering just usual blue slip inspection.
Youngy
#22
_Mid Life Crisis_
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Posted 22 October 2009 - 07:32 PM
Thanks guys,
Ryan, If I find something local I will give you a yell, I sure would appreciate a second opinion.
Ryan, If I find something local I will give you a yell, I sure would appreciate a second opinion.
#24
dattoman
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Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:35 PM
7k tops
#25
Posted 22 October 2009 - 08:38 PM
Bog around the rusty areas in the C pillars and hatch hinges, rust holes in the front end point to it being a can of worms. Also something dodgy going on with the diff as the 10 bolt Salisbury doesn't mount properly to an LX floor pan.
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