this is when experience comes into play. if the dent is almost the size of your fist and shallow it should be fine to just fill over but if its deep it will create high spots around the dent. first thing you should do is make sure there is enough filler to cover the dent that will make it so you can have the filler just past the dent when rubbed back (if that makes sence) try going further than just a wee bit past the dent, use a small block only sanding the filler asmuch as possible then when it's almost there you can go furter. polyester filler is really fine so dont rub to much out rub the filler a few times then check to see where it's at. ALWAYS make sure that your grit is cutting and not heating. what i do is use a peice of 80 just to cut the top then put a new peice on keep the paper new it's so much easier to get a panel straight. hope this helps keep at it filler takes a while to get the hang of.
Any panel/paint Expert wanna be my MSN mentor?
Started by
_Viper_
, Dec 17 2009 07:17 PM
103 replies to this topic
#77
_yldlj_
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Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:09 PM
also when rubbing the filler go diaganal down it then go the other way, diaganal up so it's a cross action that will cut the highest parts of the filler first
#78
_beergut_
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Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:41 PM
I was taught to refill the whole dent and basicly start again
by that
i mean fill the dent then "add" a little more all over the repaired area to cover what your about to sand out
and yeah forgot to say sand in a cross hatch patten first off
by that
i mean fill the dent then "add" a little more all over the repaired area to cover what your about to sand out
and yeah forgot to say sand in a cross hatch patten first off
#79
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Posted 11 January 2010 - 08:43 PM
Can you get a straight edge on it to see where you are going?
There may be highs around it or maybe the repair is deeper than you think.
There may be highs around it or maybe the repair is deeper than you think.
#80
_Viper_
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Posted 11 January 2010 - 09:54 PM
hmmk.... so if I get into this situation and its going back to metal, should I stop and apply some more filler
#81
_yldlj_
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Posted 11 January 2010 - 11:04 PM
you should stop when the meatal is high. sometime you will go through but it's still straight,also you could try guide coating the bog.
#82
Heath
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 07:40 AM
If you get to bare metal yeah you generally need to put another skim on, but try and get a metal ruler on there and see what shape is being formed by your sanding, or just to make sure you understand the shape of the dint and its surrounds in the first place, before you fill it. Guide coating filler isn't a bad idea either.
#83
_Viper_
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:42 PM
Yea I usually guide coat the filler, ok thanks guys... ill see how I go...
Also if you sand through the primer and a little bit of filler is showing do I have to spot prime that? or is fine to paint straight over it?
Also if you sand through the primer and a little bit of filler is showing do I have to spot prime that? or is fine to paint straight over it?
#84
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 12:56 PM
Yea I usually guide coat the filler, ok thanks guys... ill see how I go...
Also if you sand through the primer and a little bit of filler is showing do I have to spot prime that? or is fine to paint straight over it?
all repairs should be primed.
#85
Heath
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 01:52 PM
Yeah I try and prime anything like that unless it's hugely impractical.
#86
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 07:47 PM
you don't have to prime it if there is filler showing but thats once all prep work is finished say with 800grit. you shouldn't go through majorly anyways but if you hit metal flick a little etch primer on. you don't have to have hifill cover everywhere it's ment for repaired areas where you finish off with 80grit or so to get all the scratches out. so if you have finished all prep work and there is filler or metal showing there is no need to hifill litle spots everywhere. if you did that in the trade nothing would get done you will be there forever
#87
_yldlj_
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Posted 12 January 2010 - 08:04 PM
is that what you ment with the question? or did you mean if you put filler in to cover the dents will you have to hifill those bits? in that case you would. all repairs should be finished off with 120 max. so hifill is needed
Edited by yldlj, 12 January 2010 - 08:05 PM.
#88
_Viper_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 12:26 AM
Yea ok well here is the process i been doing...
Strip to metal
Panel beat as best I can if needed
deox
prepsol
Epoxy
Block epoxy with 180 to find the highs/lows (dont block it completely flat, just enough to see the lows)
fill with the thicker filler (K&H Kahfill)
Guide and block with 80
Prepsol
Hi-fill
dryblock with 180
Fill lows with K&H Pedigree
Block with 180
Cry cos somehow all the edges of the filler have lows next to them even tho I filled right past where the low was (we talked about this earlier)
Fill and block again
Yay all flat.
Guidecoat
Sand with the orbital with interface pad and 320
Guidecoat
Sand with the orbital with interface pad and 400
Guidecoat
Wet block with 600
Spot prime bare metal and filler showing thru (this is the bit I was talking about)
Ok so yea thats where Im at so far.... My friend whos a apprentice spray painter said at work and at tafe they just use some Etch primer in a can to spot prime the bare metal spots??? is that right? using a pressure pack would be sooo much easier...
Am I supposed to mask the rest of the panel when I spot prime?
And then when I have spot primed do I just block it with 600wet? or (just read ur last post) you reakon just leave it aint paint over the small bits of metal/filler showing?
Strip to metal
Panel beat as best I can if needed
deox
prepsol
Epoxy
Block epoxy with 180 to find the highs/lows (dont block it completely flat, just enough to see the lows)
fill with the thicker filler (K&H Kahfill)
Guide and block with 80
Prepsol
Hi-fill
dryblock with 180
Fill lows with K&H Pedigree
Block with 180
Cry cos somehow all the edges of the filler have lows next to them even tho I filled right past where the low was (we talked about this earlier)
Fill and block again
Yay all flat.
Guidecoat
Sand with the orbital with interface pad and 320
Guidecoat
Sand with the orbital with interface pad and 400
Guidecoat
Wet block with 600
Spot prime bare metal and filler showing thru (this is the bit I was talking about)
Ok so yea thats where Im at so far.... My friend whos a apprentice spray painter said at work and at tafe they just use some Etch primer in a can to spot prime the bare metal spots??? is that right? using a pressure pack would be sooo much easier...
Am I supposed to mask the rest of the panel when I spot prime?
And then when I have spot primed do I just block it with 600wet? or (just read ur last post) you reakon just leave it aint paint over the small bits of metal/filler showing?
#89
_Viper_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 03:57 PM
f*ck f*ck f*ck f*ck f*ck.... Went to Ampcap to buy the paint.... I asked for 2-pac Cherry Black K010, they said they could do it but would take a few days to organise but they gave me a card of a guy who can do it on the spot... no worries so I called him and asked for Cherry Black K010.. went down picked it up, paid for it got home.... noticed in the small writing says Acrylic Laquer!!
Shit... so I think back and I never did specify 2-pac to him so rang him up to check and he says yea he only does Acrylic! and cant give a refund on mixed paint only on the clear (which is fair enough) Omg feel so stupid i didnt specify2-pac to him :/
So anyone want some cheap Cherry black 2-pac? lol
Shit... so I think back and I never did specify 2-pac to him so rang him up to check and he says yea he only does Acrylic! and cant give a refund on mixed paint only on the clear (which is fair enough) Omg feel so stupid i didnt specify2-pac to him :/
So anyone want some cheap Cherry black 2-pac? lol
#90
_2runa_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 04:35 PM
Now i'm confused...... didn't you want 2-pac and now your selling it..... Clint the paint fumes must be getting to youOmg feel so stupid i didnt specify2-pac to him :/
So anyone want some cheap Cherry black 2-pac? lol
#91
_Viper_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 05:44 PM
Haha meant to say Acrylic.... Does anyone want some Cherry Black Acrylic 
#92
_beergut_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 05:56 PM
ummm how much could do the stato black lol
aycrlic is easier for first timers/backyard jobs anyway
but i will take it off your hands if the price and funds come together
pm me dude
aycrlic is easier for first timers/backyard jobs anyway
but i will take it off your hands if the price and funds come together
pm me dude
#93
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 07:18 PM
Acrylic wont stick to an epoxy primer to well beergut....
Probably why Viper wants to be rid of it.
Cheers.
Probably why Viper wants to be rid of it.
Cheers.
#94
_yldlj_
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Posted 13 January 2010 - 11:00 PM
viper to the question above that is right by using an etch on the bare metal and filler that is showing. we dont use a spary can at work. we have a spray gun just for etch it just works out cheaper because we buy big tins of it.a can won't hurt. never paint over just bare metal always use etch.in my last post i ment you dont have to hifill over those spots.just etch. you can 600 wet or if you got some superfine pads just scuff over it with them. also you don't have to mask anything up just flick it on to cover whats needed
#95
_Viper_
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Posted 20 January 2010 - 05:24 PM
Hey guys, well finished preping all my panels and thought Id do a test run on one of the flares... Mmm I love the color! 
But got a problem with gun settings maybe...
I did it with the primer as well but I thought it was just how the primer was and cos its thicker... but when Im spraying its not landing on the panel as a fine mist... well not like superfine like id expect its more chunky... I should have taken a pic after the 1st coat as you could see it really well.. now it just looks like really bad orange peal...
So any ideas? I was putting it on fairly wet.... as wet as id dare go anyway... too much pressure? not enough? etc? i used the tip that was recommended (1.3) and the correct thinning ratios...
But got a problem with gun settings maybe...I did it with the primer as well but I thought it was just how the primer was and cos its thicker... but when Im spraying its not landing on the panel as a fine mist... well not like superfine like id expect its more chunky... I should have taken a pic after the 1st coat as you could see it really well.. now it just looks like really bad orange peal...
So any ideas? I was putting it on fairly wet.... as wet as id dare go anyway... too much pressure? not enough? etc? i used the tip that was recommended (1.3) and the correct thinning ratios...
Edited by Viper, 20 January 2010 - 05:38 PM.
#96
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 20 January 2010 - 06:38 PM
Basecoat is usually 1:1 yes?
If its hot try a slower reducer....make sure your using the correct reducers.
Are we talking the base or clear here?
If its hot try a slower reducer....make sure your using the correct reducers.
Are we talking the base or clear here?
#97
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Posted 20 January 2010 - 08:10 PM
Yeah, don't be scared to thin it out and hammer it on.
#98
_gen3torrie_
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Posted 20 January 2010 - 08:47 PM
didnt you want it ready for mv which has just gone?
#99
_yldlj_
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Posted 20 January 2010 - 09:02 PM
try thinning it down more. you can thin it down more than 50% it's been 40 degrees the past three days you need a slow reducer as said above.
#100
_Viper_
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Posted 21 January 2010 - 09:05 AM
Ahhk, yea basecoat, I had mixed it 1:1 but used normal thinner which was 20-30'c ill wait for a cooler day next time.
And yea I was hoping to have it ready for motorvation.... but obviously didnt make it...
And yea I was hoping to have it ready for motorvation.... but obviously didnt make it...
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