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Lucky the lime green metalic GTR 1972

Started by _Agent 34_ , Oct 16 2010 02:52 PM

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#726 S pack

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:07 PM

Could this happen if the nuts were done up without weight applied to the suspension? I torqued mine up whilst on car stands.

Brad, mine were torqued up with the wheels firmly planted on the ground which is the correct method.

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#727 hanra

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:10 PM

Geez. Well yeah definitely seems like genuine product failure then. What a shame.

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#728 S pack

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:25 PM

Brad, if I were you I'd loosen off all your bush bolts and torque them up with the full weight of the car on the ground.

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#729 hanra

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:31 PM

I had the rear of the car on jack stands and the front on ramps. The rear was actually higher then the front. I thought this would be much the same as the front being on the ground?

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#730 S pack

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:39 PM

I had the rear of the car on jack stands and the front on ramps. The rear was actually higher then the front. I thought this would be much the same as the front being on the ground?

Ahhh ok, I thought you meant the car was jacked up and the suspension was hanging in mid air. All good then.

Cheers

Dave.

Edited by S pack, 04 March 2014 - 08:39 PM.

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#731 hanra

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Posted 04 March 2014 - 08:47 PM

I torqued mine up whilst on car stands.

Yep sorry got me words wrong Hahahaha. Doh!! Ramps at front stands at back. Then swapped around to do the rear end.

Edited by hanra, 04 March 2014 - 08:48 PM.

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#732 _Agent 34_

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 06:28 PM

update # who knows what !

Big Gene has fessed up on the blown engine.

I've blown a rear main seal and also the " 200kw box " has a second gear issue , just a syncro.

I've always had a BIG cam issue with the engine combo and whilst the engine's out now it's;

1) getting a new rear main super seal - rocket industries apparently sell these and they are the dux guts - so no more leaks - but they cost a bomb

2) checked all the bearings on the crank , all good on the bearing wear and back in

3) a smaller cam on the engine whilst it all out and stripped down over a xu1 spec . The cam has always been a problem with the engine and whilst it's F@#$kin huge and sound awesome you need a full package to make it work. It's an Old johono thing which needs careful consideration which this motor sort of lacked.

I've decided to build a full on screamer from scratch in the next 6 months because I will be bored with nothing to do !

it will be a stroker

off set head

3 degrees off 90 to open up the valve angle

external baffled sump

webers

not sure on the head type but it looks like a 12 port at this stage.

I'm starting another engine build thread then

this engine will probable still make good hp with the current set up and may sell as a unit once re done or in the future.

the G

failures only build a better product.

I can say that the small items in motor building are the most important , plan , plan plan .

MUST KEEP GOING ! LOL

Edited by Agent 34, 21 March 2014 - 06:35 PM.

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#733 _judgelj_

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Posted 21 March 2014 - 07:22 PM

eventful. what cam were you running previously? what symptoms did you have or was it just a pig?

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#734 _Agent 34_

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 08:06 AM

It really wasn't discussed when i built the motor as i came with the parts. a bit of communication from the engine builder would have been nice. I probably would have got a smaller cam.

I just was not up to speed with the engine build then as well.

cam spec's rezised.jpg 77.1K 12 downloads

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#735 Ice

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Posted 22 March 2014 - 10:54 AM

Thats a decent valve lift in that cam grant it didnt sound to lumpy when i heard it at toranafest
remember bigger is not always better well in cams anyway lol

Whats this 200 killer wasps gearbox your bangin on about is it still an all aussie shit box

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#736 _Agent 34_

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 06:18 AM

ERR yes Gene apparently it's sum zuper duper ( remember thoes ice block sticks) box.

if you have a look at this post

http://www.gmh-toran...-200kw-m21-box/

and also on that page these comments

Ok so the gig is the following mods;

spiral main shaft for oiling

larger main lay shaft to prevent flexing under power - close to 21mm - this is the top loader thing

board out cluster to take in the new layshaft

large circlip - i think from memory

the rest should be new;

bearings - the Mitsubishi thing

new gears as requested

mines in and running however i would check all boxes out prior to buying and get a list of what's new and what's not. check the raitos and you may have to " count teeth " in order to check this.

there are plenty of old boxes around whereby they strip the parts out of and re use " no surprise there EH " so check out what you are getting.

you will find the make up of this box, I ( the builder) pulled the box down yesterday as there was a issue with second gear, checked it all out it's questionable whether it's a linkage issue or the little 15mm long sliders that moves the engaging ring in second gear. repaced these and put it back together.

yes there was also some wasp eggs in there and i got stung so it's the correct box LOL

Whats this 200 killer wasps gearbox your bangin on about is it still an all aussie shit box

Again after looking at this set up for the second time and then REALLY looking at the sum of the parts, it's a SHIT box and by this I mean that the syncro's , but the theory is that the layshaft is larger and reduces flex and the main shaft has a spiral cut into it for oil circulation.

AS i have said before these boxes may have a new cluster gear to your specification BUT the rebuilding of the main shaft may be the sum of the best of the old parts from other boxes which have been stripped down.

From all accounts the rebuild kits are not worth the metal that make them up SO this is why old GOOD parts are used. we will see from here on in.

So if you get a box done it's probably going to have old parts of varying degrees.

PS i'm no gear box expert , but i could now pull one down and put back together after watching if for 4 hours yesterday.

Edited by Agent 34, 23 March 2014 - 06:19 AM.

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#737 N/A-PWR

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 06:46 AM

Nice Cam Grant,

Yes, those Cam Spec's show lot's of Power, I tried to find the REV Range, but I guess it would be about ( 2500-5500 ). Dave I

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#738 _Agent 34_

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 07:01 AM

It's exciting to drive , but i really do most driving and not track work, it's this old question of the " when , where and how "

when do you need it

where do you need it and

how much you want

the cam will go till into the 7000 rpm range , but whilst the motor is built well i really don't want to test this theory and the carbies are a limiting factor on this set up.

it was like a KX 450 hitting the power band, but you needed to get the revs into it and this was where the issues were. Ive just decided to step it back a bit to get more progressive power in the curve.

the motor was out and two separate organisations ( mechanic shop's) both flagged the cam separately so i just decided to fix the issue. it's still running a solid lifter set up.

I did go onto crow cams and printed of their cam specs but am yet to sit down and compare.

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#739 gad05

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 09:59 AM

Hi Grant,
Do you have a part no. for that super seal from rocket.
Sounds like a good thing , i hate oil leaks.
Cheers Graham .

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#740 _Agent 34_

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 04:02 PM

Graham,

I'll get it for you on monday and post up. Apparently it's only available from rocket. If you pay over the counter it's expensive but if you buy through an engine builder it's heaps cheaper.as per their discount.

Anything is cheaper than pulling a motor to fix a shitty oil leak though, I'll try and get a photo of the seal , i had an old rope seal and it was put in well but it just F@#$king leaked and was all up the back of the motor and also was starting to go onto the clutch plates.

beat's me how holden put these together in a sort of mass production sealed unit with minimal call backs on oil leaks

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#741 N/A-PWR

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 04:22 PM

A Rope seal is a packing box, you got to make sure the seal is touching ( mating ) the shaft

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#742 rodomo

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 07:54 PM

Rope seals are dinosaur technology

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#743 N/A-PWR

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:01 PM

You got that right Dammit Rob.

Rope seals are dinosaur technology

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#744 gad05

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Posted 23 March 2014 - 09:32 PM

Thanks Grant love to see some pics.
Cheers Graham.

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#745 _Agent 34_

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Posted 27 March 2014 - 06:32 PM

huston we have contact !!

F@%#k me not sure what update this is but it's ongoing !

What really pisses me off is " paying for shit and people not delivering " .

now this dosen't relate to the current issue, but in fact it relates to some previous stuff and it's all about communication.

i understand why there there was an old joke at school and it went like this

" here's your cotton wool NOW go roll your own"

AT least they go/t reaped what they sewed and it fhe workmanship was faulty then they paid the consequence.

Motor back in

gear box re checked

smaller cam

new lifters

super duper duper red hot rear main seal - don't have photos

I have been looking at cams on different websites and it's one of the most complex areas.

G

back to happy daze

Edited by Agent 34, 27 March 2014 - 06:42 PM.

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#746 jd lj

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Posted 28 March 2014 - 04:34 AM

Good to hear Grant. So how's it to drive with the new cam etc compared to the old one?
It'll be interesting to see how the super duper rear main seal holds up. It sounds like the new mechanic your using is probably quite experienced with these old cars which should help too.

What's the new rear main seal made out of?

James

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#747 warrenm

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Posted 28 March 2014 - 07:18 AM

huston we have contact !!

F@%#k me not sure what update this is but it's ongoing !

What really pisses me off is " paying for shit and people not delivering " .

now this dosen't relate to the current issue, but in fact it relates to some previous stuff and it's all about communication.

i understand why there there was an old joke at school and it went like this

" here's your cotton wool NOW go roll your own"

AT least they go/t reaped what they sewed and it fhe workmanship was faulty then they paid the consequence.

Motor back in

gear box re checked

smaller cam

new lifters

super duper duper red hot rear main seal - don't have photos

I have been looking at cams on different websites and it's one of the most complex areas.

G

back to happy daze

Your right about cams, they are a complex area, that's why it's a good idea to talk to the cam grinder & not make the choice from a catalogue.

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#748 _Agent 34_

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Posted 28 March 2014 - 05:38 PM

Yes Waz, i really was sick of the old cam it was murder some times.

Ive gone for a Cam tecch solid again and the specs are

@ 50 - 238'

center line inlet 105 deg

center line exh 111 deg

lobe sep 108

lift at lifter .320 and 1.5 rocker total .480

the old one was

@ 50 .261

both intake and exh center line @ 106

lobe sep 108

lift at the lifter .371 and 1.5 rocker total .556

so you can see that there is a difference in the lift and opening times BUT there is also a difference in the center line of the exhaust and the inlet.

IF anyone can contribute to explaining this then please feel free to, my small mind says that it's it's advancing or retarding the exhaust or inlet but i'm not sure which one

It drives really nice now sounds great still. the power is a lot more progressive and not all or nothing , I just have to look at the spring rate with the strombergs now and see where it wants to sit.

so pretty happy with the outcome as it still runs CD strombergs.

Driving the car now I realize that i made the right decision to change the cam

The mechanic really guided me with the cam and I didn't really have much say as he has far more experience in race cars, motors and all that stuff, I'm learning but still a newby LOL .

where back big bopper