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building ozzie v8's

Started by _micksgtr_ , May 08 2006 08:44 PM

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71 replies to this topic

#26 _micksgtr_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:00 PM

is it possible to get alloy heads for a 308?? also where would be teh best place to start looking for a vt/vs 308 block?? just bare block that is
cheers

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#27 _dannylxss_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:06 PM

mick what torrie is it going in do you realise if you run a vs/vt block you will have that eng no so you have to run the polition gear for that no ie efi i dont know how much better they are but think of rego and epa

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#28 _micksgtr_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:21 PM

g'day, i was under the impression it depended on the cars age not the engines age reference that gear. however it wont be the first time i'm wrong. its going in a pre pollution LH.
cheers

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#29 _dannylxss_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:31 PM

so did i mate intill last year when i had the engineer look over my car now i can go two ways find a hq no and have no poll or keep my vk no and have to run poll for a vk commo and did you get a chance to call mick collet

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#30 _LJ355_

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Posted 19 May 2006 - 10:47 PM

My engine number starts with VR whats that out of neither engineer or rta say anything ?

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#31 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 01:50 AM

i take it the motors going in a lh torana, i have one question have you ever been in a 500hp car and i mean a real 500hp, i have and if this is a street car we are talking about you are fu#kin mad you wont have a hope of getting the power down on street tyres even if the car is tubbed in that size car, it will spin up to 140kph+ top gear easy in the dry with a spool or lsd and 265-275 tyres, so i dont see the point. if going in a race car then its a different story, im not trying to have a go its just that alot of people quote horsepower but really wouldnt have a clue how much power 500hp really is.

Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 20 May 2006 - 01:55 AM.

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#32 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 02:17 AM

for 7k this is what i would suggest:
308 stroked to 336
forged pistons
10.5.1 comp
std chev rods arp bolts
rollmaster timing set
CRANE CCH304 hyd cam (236@050)
ported b cast heads
roller rockers
edelbrock performer manifold with 2in open spacer

extras:
750 carb
1 5/8 headers
msd or crane ignition
and most of all a good dyno tune
this is a really strong combo on the street and will smoke the tyres every gear in a torrie its good for around 300-320hp @ wheels (380-400hp@flywheel)
this is super driveable on the street and works well with a 3000 stall and 3.5-3.7 gears.
you would be suprised how this would go in a LH good value for 7k.

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#33 _micksgtr_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 12:53 PM

g'day,
"1quicklj" yeah i guess 500hp is a figure that popped in my head, yeah i have been in a few cars around that mark, but until you learn what can go wrong and what power can do what i wont understand what to buy.
your list is exactly what i was after, one question however is would it matter much going for a solid cam??
also now that i no i have to go for a block around the same age a the car what the best to start with??
cheers

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#34 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 05:31 PM

a solid cam would be good no probs as long as you dont mind setting lash the solid is a better choice for even more performance something around 240@050 duration is a good street cam (3000stall), a solid crane 288 will need a 3500+ stall and 3.7+ gears, but it will make even more power, its really up to you what you want to use the car for,ie street or race or both thats going to dictate cam choice.

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#35 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 05:32 PM

any 1970-1977 blocks will be fine,also remember to go an extra 5-6degrees of 050 duration on a solid cam if comparing to a hydraulic cam that way it counteracts the lash of the solid grind and makes the two cams more comparable

Edited by 1QUICK LJ, 20 May 2006 - 05:36 PM.

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#36 _micksgtr_

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Posted 20 May 2006 - 08:49 PM

how would having a manual 5 speed gearbox change things??
cheers

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#37 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 21 May 2006 - 01:50 AM

no probs with a manual cam choice isnt as critical providing the rear end gearing is right, obviously you can run whatever cam you want and take off with the right revs to suit.

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#38 _Lostit_

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 04:35 PM

Im pretty sure engine blocks and putting them in is based on the year the block/car it was in ...eg if you use a 5litre from a VN then the pollution controls need to match that year regardless if you put it in a 70 model torry.

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#39 _LJ308injected_

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 06:02 PM

True as someone posted there is to many people saying different things on here.
I just had my motor come off the dyno and it made 527hp with standard stroke roller cam harrop inlet and 10.8.1 comp and made that on pump fuel with vn heads although even builing a stroker unless you are i wouldnt even bother with vn heads as it costs alot more and you can make 440hp with early heads and that is plenty.I have a mate who also has a 500+hp 326 stroke and he uses dave bennet alloy heads and the early types but 500hp for 7k please.My motor cost me in excess of 15k plus.As stated then $2500 plus on auto and converter and another $1000 on diff it all adds up.But to be realistic 450hp is streetable and you can do it with 10.5.1 comp no worry's so all i can say is dont beleive all you hear on to many opinions in my eye's.

Regards.... Steve

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#40 _micksgtr_

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 04:05 PM

g'day,
just after some advice on heads, i've been offered some HQ heads flowed to 450hp, how would these go with the setup i'm planning?? also being in a LH would i have any promblems with decent headers??
any advice would be great thanks

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#41 _LHoon_

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 04:48 PM

Mick - the Pacemaker headers current in the LH are as good as you would need! One of the best available on the market. You might just want to get them HPC coated to make them look pretty.

Those HQ heads flowed to 450hp would be perfect for a nice street/strip engine making around 350-400hp.

The advantage also for going for HQ / early heads is that you don't need to change headers or exhaust system. The exhaust system you currently have is also very high quality and suitably sized for that sort of power.

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#42 Evan

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 04:55 PM

how can you tell the differance between the standard cast heads and these flowed HQ heads??

Ev

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#43 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 10:19 PM

ported heads have a much smoother finish in the ports and all sharp edges are removed or blended in, if they havent been used you will see the grinding marks in the ports. where std heads will have a as cast finish,but just because they are ported doesnt mean they are well ported heads, theres a big difference between port jobs you cant just grind anywhere you must know what your doing or you can easily end up with heads that flow no more or even worse than standard heads, when buying a set of heads it best to make sure that actual set of heads have been flow tested.

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#44 _1QUICK LJ_

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 10:21 PM

micksgtr those heads will go real nice on a std stroke 308 or a 336 stroker no probs mate.

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#45 _MAWLER_

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 10:22 PM

What stroke did you decide on in the end? Those HQ head would work well on 308, beautifully on a 331 and still good on a 355, however VN heads would really open up the potenial of the 355 and are certainly worth the little extra in IMO.

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#46 Evan

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Posted 04 June 2006 - 10:58 PM

if you are building a 308 to make about 300 Hp , if you can get the 308 heads to flow to that, whats the point of upgrading to VN heads?

Evan

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#47 _[BOTTLEDUP]_

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Posted 05 June 2006 - 12:28 AM

If you already have an existing 308 with early style heads, and the aim is for no more than about 350-400hp I'd say to stick with that design. If the aim is for a higher output than that, or if you are starting from scratch I'd lean towards the VN heads, for a couple of reasons.

Apart from having a much better port layout and design, the castings are a lot newer, and hence are generally in much better condition. Also they aren't prone to cracking around the exhaust seats, and the valve material itself is a lot better.

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#48 _micksgtr_

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Posted 07 June 2006 - 08:50 PM

g'day

thanks for the great advice there guys, very helpful indeed. will be starting to do a bit more serious research very soon.
one other question, what order to people start to decide on things, like do i buy heads, then a block then a crank and cam?? might sound silly but i would be thinking you buy them all in an order to better match
cheers

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#49 TerrA LX

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Posted 07 June 2006 - 09:20 PM

unless you have parts you want to budget around, start from the bottom and work your way up.
dont outlay money on heads till you work out what cam you want to run as performance and reliability rely heavily on the correct combination.