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HRT ski boat

Started by _Ozzie Picker_ , Jan 24 2011 07:17 PM

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#1 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 07:17 PM

hi,

i was hoping someone may know how to fit up a rear mount ski boat,several years ago i worked building centre mount ski boats,from start to finish on my own,in my spare time i made this HRT ski boat,did the logo in the gel coat,i still have to join deck to hull,this is a shit of a job as you have to climb up to nose of boat and fibre glass together,this will be a winter job.

anyway i have been welding again for a period as money is much better.so i made a trailor,and now comes the hard part,as i havn,t built a rear mount,does anyone have pictures of how to mount engine,i,m thinking argo drive,or do you know of a good forum to join,as i,ve been looking around and havn,t found what i,m after.i live in the country and there,s not anywhere to go for help.

thanks for any help in advance.
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#2 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 07:26 PM

Thats cool.

Just get a V drive from Kincad marine Rolco???

Pick the type of clutch you want give them your specks and hand them money.

Jack shaft from the motor to v drive then prop shaft from v drive out the bottom of the hull, mount the v drive as far foward as possible for the slightest prop shaft angle possible.

You will need to know the boat weight, how much power your oging to make, etc etc to work out the step up ratio, prop type, shaft sizes, etc...

Not a boat builder, but have been looking at modding mine.

Theres another boat company on Windsor Road in Sydney that stocks everything you need but i wouldn't recommend dealing with them.

Cheers.

Edited by Bomber Watson, 24 January 2011 - 07:27 PM.

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#3 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 07:36 PM

thanks bomber,

i know the place at windsor,thats where we got our stuff,and my old employer was doggey and that was part of the reason for leaving aswell,so i don,t want to use him to finish it off,i,ll buy parts else where.

the step up sounds interesting,can this be changed as i,m going to get it on the water for the kids with a small engine with 320hp,then i have a chev 370 alloy headed combo in pics, that i want to tear around like a rat bag later on.

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#4 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:02 PM

Mate not entirely sure to be honest, i think you can buy the individual gearsets.

Basically everything from direct drive to 2:1 step up from what i have seen.

Unsure of price for individual gearsets if you can get them?

Somethign else i've seen a few guys doing in the states is fitting a powerglide behind the motor, and running the jackshaft off that to the v drive.

No need to buy a clutched v drive (way more expensive than direct ones) as the torque converter does that job, and you got two speeds, fast and wtf!!

Might be something to look at :stirpot:

Cheers.

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#5 MRLXSS

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:07 PM

Hey Craig,

That is an awesome job mate! What are your plans for the boat when its done? If you were to enter events and stuff, I reckon you could approach Holden for sponsorship down the track!

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#6 _Kush_

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:40 PM

I...............
Love........
Your........
Boat.........

Can I have it?

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#7 yel327

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 08:43 PM

I've seen them with Powerglides too, but they don't run a working torque converter, just the box, you can use neutral, reverse and drive. Normally setup so they don't kickdown unless you select it from memory.

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#8 Stedz_lc

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 09:17 PM

Most auto boats dont run a V drive setup they run a leg, Most use turbo350's and get rid of first gear, mainly ski race boats that are turbo etc to get them spooled up n pulling skiers up out of water,
Sorry quiet into it currently building a boat that i wil skiing behind!

You Can Contact Kincaid rolco or Tawco We use bruce from tawco top bloke and cheapest around for us in melbourne, What angle is your skeg at or been bored at? This will effect your V drive location, talk to bruce he will help you out

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#9 Stedz_lc

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 09:20 PM

Also the Gear Sets in the V drive you buy as a percentage so 11% 20% etc and yes you can buy different gear's, Ull play with your gears to get your engine at its perfect top rpm, then use your prop to fine tune and get your mph up

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#10 Stinga

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Posted 24 January 2011 - 09:23 PM

thats a slick looking boat. :rockon:

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#11 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 05:23 PM

thanks for all your help guy,s and comments,

i,ve had a look at the powerglide option,they manualize them and 1st gear is rearly used only a very slow speed,i like the leg idea,but that sounds very expensive.

the argo,sounds the cheapest,but people complain about the noise,my pipes should overcome that ,basicly its going to be a boat to drag my kids about for fun,and i was hopeing to put the bigger engine to blast about, won,t be racing as i don,t have heaps of coin,

i worked part time for BRIAN MCCOSKER with liberty,but unfortunatly he was killed last year in a high speed boat crash,he was going to help me.
. R.I.P

i havn,t fitted a skeg yet,as i,m going to buy everything as a kit to suit my boat,i really need to see how the engines are fitted so i can make some of the gear myself to keep cost down,i,ll probably need to ring around but don,t want to get ripped off.

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#12 _Woodsy_

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 06:31 PM

That looks fantastic craig!

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#13 _TorYoda_

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 07:07 PM

I have seen plenty of engines mounted in boats Craig. Many years ago I built (and repaired/modified) sheet aluminium custom hulls for racers. Most inboard's use a basic engine plate setup that positions the engine with the crank centerline parallel to the prop drive shaft.
I am currently setting up a 1UZFE in a race hull now for the 4 litre class using basically the same setup as in my Turd but with single 4 barrel holley rather than a pair. The engine is mounted with the flywheel end facing forward and utilises a flange assembly I fabricated bolted to the crank that drives a splined universal link. This connects it to the step up box that turns the prop shaft. IMO it is best to have your drive setup in the hull first and mount your engine to mate up to it. As a previous poster stated, as far forward as possible is ideal for the step up to keep the prop shaft angle as shallow as possible. This will assist greater top speed.
Be sure to use a VERY well set up sump/windage/baffle arrangement as keeping the oil around the pickup is difficult in a boat bouncing around in rough water.
Most serious racers use a dry sump system but the lexus is well sorted for oil control as stock and this is one of the reasons we chose it for this class. The owner also chose to go with my recommendation of a heat exchanger for cooling to avoid the potential damage from seawater and eliminating the need to flush the alloy block each time it is used.

Prop science is a whole different subject.... a bit like juggling diff ratio's, tyre widths and wheel diameters....

Edited by TorYoda, 25 January 2011 - 07:20 PM.

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#14 limo

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Posted 25 January 2011 - 07:17 PM

great looking boat,
pity you are so far away I proberly have most of the bits and other interesting additions lying around in my shed
I used to build boats and work on cct race boats, still got molds sitting out under the gum trees and I know about gluing the top on, bugga of job
what motor are you using? I will check for mounts etc a post pics

here's one I prepared earlier, centre mount
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#15 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 10:08 AM

thanks craig and limo.

this is the sump i will be using,and a picture of the first boat i put on water,not my choice of colour but thats what was wanted.
the engine will be a chev limo,cheers.
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#16 _1973bathxu1_

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 05:24 PM

craig hi is the pink boat for sale as i am now looking to buy a ski boat, as my kids are pushing me into a ski boat, or if any one knows of one for sale
the hrt boat looks the goods,it will look awesome on the water, it will definatly turn heads

regards aldo

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#17 _gtr-xu1_

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 05:59 PM

here ya go

http://www.cassellma...e-products.html

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#18 limo

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 07:06 PM

I see you want to make bits up which will reduce costs, so my suggestions
argo or cassale V drive, angle units are better but cost more (10% step up)
prop shaft angle 6 to 9 degrees depending on length of boat, don't want box too far forward or it pushes nose down at speed
now with ski boat really best to have a soft clutch, you would have used them in your centre mounts
I usually make them up myself using a manual bellhousing, fork and sealed bearing.
get a front shaft out of aussie box (broken ones are cheap) and weld a flange on for the jack shaft
the over centre clutch lever for cable operation, buy or make,
then the engine can be mounted on the bellhousing with flat plate bolted to gearbox holes with angles either side to bolt to engine bearers,
other mounts can be bought or made the fit from the side of the block or from the front of the motor
I will find some parts to take pics to demonstrate if you wish
don't forget you need a nice solid cover for the jack shaft, 316 stainless tube looks great when polished

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#19 eyepeeler

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Posted 26 January 2011 - 11:53 PM

Maybe build somthing in line with these boats.................

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#20 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 04:38 PM

here ya go

http://www.cassellmarine.com.au/c/125437/1/rex-marine-products.html

That may well be the marine company on Windsor Road that ripped me off.

Cheers.

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#21 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 05:07 PM

hi aldo,
that boat was sold,
thanks for your comments on my boat.

limo.
any pics would be good mate,gives me some ideas.

eyepeeler,
sheez they are way out of my reach mate,love those bridge to bridge machines,but i don,t think my knackers are big enough to even drive one of those weapons,but i,ll take a few ideas for finishing off my trailor.

bomber,i,d reckon your right.

here are a few pics of brians engines that we worked on together,this is a small block chev,psi, with his own designed McCOY twin plug head,each head was 11k.we stuck this engine into everinghams boat for the weekend,you can just see brian in his office,these were real good days,working here,i was buisy being a spanner man,and never took much notice of skeg angles etc,because i knew he would help me finish mine.
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#22 _Bomber Watson_

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 05:50 PM

Um Holy frOck??

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#23 _gtr-xu1_

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Posted 27 January 2011 - 10:14 PM

didnt mckosker pass away recently in a racing accident?
heres my rear mound ill get you some pics off engine mounts tomorrow.

And Bomber how did they rip you off?

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#24 _Ozzie Picker_

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Posted 28 January 2011 - 06:57 AM

thanks heaps gtr-xu1,

yeah brian had a big crash last year,was very upsetting for me as he was a friend.

your boat is very nice mate,are you still setting it up?where is your tank,and what type of engine cooler are you doing?

i also need to see what type of cave plate arrangement you have,adjustable?

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#25 _gtr-xu1_

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Posted 28 January 2011 - 02:18 PM

due to my boat being a X race boat. fuel tank are fiberglass and run up sides of my boat. V drive is a ARGO with prop-release as per race specs. cav plate is adjustable. i bought my boat less engine on a broken rusty trailer, it came with all engine mounts/bellhousing and exhaust. I made the new trailer and had i hot gal dipped. then bought a 290hp crate motor and changed cam and fitted 6-71 and 650s and ignition. i didnt like the idea of dirty water circulating through the engine so i bought a heat exchanger of ebay. also filled a oilcooler.

heres some pics if you want more info or better pics ill use my camera and email as these i just used phone.
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