225 replies to this topic

[dirtbag]

So anyway, I've done a little bit more to the kombi. I can't remember exactly where I was up to so if there's some double ups sorry about that : )


Well next thing I did was to box the little corner at the base of the cab on the drivers side.







I then welded up the recesses I made in the rear piece to clear the hinge pins. I also cleaned up and welded the new piece to the top rails.





I also finished making all the lips for the 3 compartments.







The two centre supports that run across the tray have a lip on each side. I left a gap in between them so when I weld them to the support I can weld them both at the same time.





So much welding! Each weld across the car is over 1500mm and there's 4 of them, and that's not including fully welding the lips around the outside of the tray!





Then of course comes the grinding. How fun hahaha!





I then stitch welded the side lips on.





I then welded the rear piece along the outside, and prepped all the new metal for etch primer.





I wasn't in the mood for welding the sides up along the top of the quarters but I wanted to get some etch on it so I just taped up the join so I don't have to dig primer out later to weld.











Well it's getting there but there's still a lot to do even just for this part. I still have to put the drain pipes in, but that'll be easy, and make the lids for the 3 compartments and figure out hinges and catches for them. Then I still have to weld down each side which I'm not looking forward to, mainly because I'm lazy : )

Then I still need to cut rust out of the doors and engine lid, panel beat it, make extractors, radiator hoses, engine cradle etc etc. I'm loving this build though : )

[dirtbag]

I made a start on the lids for the three sections of the tray. They'll just be zinc sheet with hardwood decking over the top.

They've just got a 15mm folded edge with a safety edge underneath.





The only welds needed are the corners.





I figured a safety edge on the lids would make lifting them a bit nicer, even though they'll have frames inside and gas struts, I still don't want sharp edges.





This is how it was supposed to look in the beginning. Just a long flat tray. But then the blower came up so it now needs a hole. What a damn shame! Not : )








So after taking one or two measurements I marked out where to cut for the blower. I used a 12mm drill to do the inner corners so they're rounded as opposed to being a right angle.





I'll have to change the shape of the hole once I have the shotgun scoop here, but for now it's good enough.







It'll sit up about an inch higher once I've made the engine cradle to go underneath.







So my next job is to build frames, hinges and latches and get these things opening. They're not small or light so a pair of struts will be fitted to each one.

I'm still loving this build : )

Edited by dirtbag, 06 June 2012 - 11:48 PM.

[lxsstorana]

Great work as always.

[YELLAcakeu308]

love this thread. Great work tim. R u goin 2 build annother engine lid without blower hole? So if u changed the inlet manifold it be a sleeper.... Ben

[dirtbag]

Hi ben. I see what you're saying, but taking the blower off!!?? WTF!?!? hahaha.


Well I've done a little bit more to this beast.

I spent a couple of hours at a jap wreckers in the rain and mud looking for some hinges that might be good. Luckily for me, one of the last cars I checked was a mazda 121 bubble. The boot hinges are perfect! Also adding to my luck was the fact they had 3 pairs!





I also bought some steel to make frames for the lids and to mount the hinges.





I'm mounting the hinges to the body with some 75x75x5mm angle. I'm mounting the hinges to the lid frames with some 50x5mm flat bar. Nice and simple. Just like me : )

Getting the first pair of hinges in the perfect position took a bit of figuring out but once the first pair was done the others were easy.





The mazda hinges work a treat!





By plug welding the lid to the new frame took all the flex out of the lid. I can now open the lid from one side without it twisting and catching on the edge.








The rear lid frame will need a little bit more work, just to clear the blower snout.





I replaced that section of RHS with some 5mm flat bar. I'll just blend it in to make it look less dodgy. I also added a couple of extra pieces to the frame just to help support the lid where the hole is cut.









With all the lids welded on and open, it has a bit of a sail boat look going on : )





There's not much room but the lip on the body fits nicely between the lid and the frame. If it just fits - it fits : )








So that's it for now : )

Edited by dirtbag, 08 July 2012 - 09:44 AM.

[dirtbag]

great work there Tim i think once the timber is on the lids it will take all the twistage out of them but, best to be safe than sorry. well done with the hinge / strut set up.

would be interesting to see it all coloured in with and without the timber.

scuse my dumbness as im not up to speed when it comes to engines but do you think there may be any overheating problems with the radiator so far away from the donk?

I'd assume getting the radiator as far away from a hot cast iron motor the better job the radiator can do. Plus the extra long hoses will hold a fair bit more water too which wont hurt.

[dirtbag]

Yep, what he said ^^^

If you have trouble blocking the little wobbles out use polyester spray filler rather than just primer filler. It's bloody marvellous stuff. You'll need at least a 2.5mm nozzle though in your gun.

[MictheAussie]

Just came over this surfing online. Looks like a dodge viper V10 and side mounted radiators. Pretty cool.

[dirtbag]

This project is now up for sale as the owner has other things going on. He's asking around $8k, and that includes a fully rebuilt and warranted 305 Vortec small block as well as the blower set up. Wish I could afford it for myself!

[MODNIZD]

Bargain.