I'm holding onto my vintage steel, more chance of them being worth something. 4 HQ's and an oldschool celica. One day the 4 door HQ's will be worth something and maybe one day people will go nuts for the little silly cars
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VN wagon
Started by
_BAILLIE_
, Mar 22 2011 09:40 PM
73 replies to this topic
#51
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Posted 31 March 2011 - 08:21 PM
No one ever wants anything until its gone. That could probably be a song too!
I'm holding onto my vintage steel, more chance of them being worth something. 4 HQ's and an oldschool celica. One day the 4 door HQ's will be worth something and maybe one day people will go nuts for the little silly cars.
I'm holding onto my vintage steel, more chance of them being worth something. 4 HQ's and an oldschool celica. One day the 4 door HQ's will be worth something and maybe one day people will go nuts for the little silly cars
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#52
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Posted 31 March 2011 - 08:37 PM
True. And they don't want some shitty car that they see 500 times a day being driven by muzzas and bogans and P platers, unless they are one of them.
Yeh, trust me man, if i had a block of land it would be crammed full of old cars.
I don't even have room for two cars here, i have to work in the dodgy alleyway out the back or the carpark up the road, lol.
I was sizing up the old cobble stone today to see if it wouldn't be too bad to run an engine crane up and down to rip some drivelines out. It looks pretty rough, bound to be a way around it though. Big plank of whatever, or i might have an woops and spill some concrete everywhere.
And dude, the silly cars, and other old Toys like Cressidas are already getting rare and up there -
Ones like yours, in even higher demand i believe because the man who built this one -
frOck me dead! It's such a little beast of a machine. I would love to own one with the kit on it like that
Yeh, trust me man, if i had a block of land it would be crammed full of old cars.
I don't even have room for two cars here, i have to work in the dodgy alleyway out the back or the carpark up the road, lol.
I was sizing up the old cobble stone today to see if it wouldn't be too bad to run an engine crane up and down to rip some drivelines out. It looks pretty rough, bound to be a way around it though. Big plank of whatever, or i might have an woops and spill some concrete everywhere.
And dude, the silly cars, and other old Toys like Cressidas are already getting rare and up there -
Ones like yours, in even higher demand i believe because the man who built this one -
frOck me dead! It's such a little beast of a machine. I would love to own one with the kit on it like that
Edited by BAILLIE, 31 March 2011 - 08:41 PM.
#53
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Posted 03 April 2011 - 10:51 PM
hahaha, gotta love how the oil cooler is mounted. 'where can i route these hoses... i know! /me removes headlight' I never did understand the big rims little rubber look .
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#54
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Posted 03 April 2011 - 11:05 PM
Yeh, just for looks hey. All JDM style. I don't really get the whole tyre stretching deal either. I respect their love of dished wheels though. They get massive wheels and then build the car around them, often running like 10s or 11s on the front and even bigger on the back, on tiny cars.Low profile tyres stretched over a large rim will minimise sidewall flex and lead to more responsive handling / steering etc.
Personally, i like the leeway offered from regular tyres. A little bit of 'roll under' and flex is welcomed because it lets me know when traction is almost ready to disappear. It's like a little warning system that helps to avoid understeer, the worst enemy of driving imo.
Edited by BAILLIE, 03 April 2011 - 11:06 PM.
#55
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Posted 03 April 2011 - 11:17 PM
ha ha
you should post up some of the rice you showed us in shoutbox last nite m8t
you should post up some of the rice you showed us in shoutbox last nite m8t
#56
_BAILLIE_
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Posted 04 April 2011 - 12:08 AM
Haha, i would rather not contaminate this thread too much.
Yeh, i know it's about a VN so it can't get much worse hey... or can it?
If i find something that makes my car look amazingly classy by comparison, i will chuck it up hey
Yeh, i know it's about a VN so it can't get much worse hey... or can it?
If i find something that makes my car look amazingly classy by comparison, i will chuck it up hey
#57
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Posted 21 April 2011 - 09:26 PM
Some guy -
Edited by BAILLIE, 21 April 2011 - 09:27 PM.
#58
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Posted 23 April 2011 - 01:54 PM
Spotted this on Flight of the Conchords.
Looks like a VP wagon and has VT style tail lights. I haven't found any info yet, but I guess our ones were probably based on these?
Looks like a VP wagon and has VT style tail lights. I haven't found any info yet, but I guess our ones were probably based on these?
#59
Neils LX
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Posted 23 April 2011 - 03:20 PM
1991/1996 chevrolet caprice wagon
VN/VZs were based off the opel omega/senator http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Opel_Omega
VN/VZs were based off the opel omega/senator http://en.wikipedia....wiki/Opel_Omega
#60
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Posted 23 April 2011 - 06:52 PM
Yeh cheers mate, i found that out and have been having a gander.
The Caprices were made later and were even uglier. They look like Magna headlights : /
I will have to check out more about the Opel / Holden link.
The Caprices were made later and were even uglier. They look like Magna headlights : /
I will have to check out more about the Opel / Holden link.
#62
_Woodsy_
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Posted 24 April 2011 - 06:26 PM
^^^^^Well that wont be on here for long, poor car...
Edited by Woodsy, 24 April 2011 - 06:27 PM.
#63
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Posted 24 April 2011 - 06:30 PM
Thats how you treat a VN, muhahaha. Suck it buick pos 
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#64
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Posted 24 April 2011 - 07:05 PM
Ah, the thing loved it. 
If it didn't get hot and run out of tyres it could do that all day long.
If it didn't get hot and run out of tyres it could do that all day long.
#65
Neils LX
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Posted 24 April 2011 - 07:25 PM
Motors panels diff are stuff all for VNs and its not like your hurting your torrie. All in good fun but might be an idea to take it to the track and keep it off the street thou.
#66
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Posted 24 April 2011 - 07:34 PM
Yeh true. As soon as I can afford it I will be keeping it on the track for sure.
I would rather be drifting but it's far more dangerous. I don't like to enter a blind corner sideways, but 99% of corners on the street are blind.
I would rather be drifting but it's far more dangerous. I don't like to enter a blind corner sideways, but 99% of corners on the street are blind.
#67
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Posted 01 August 2012 - 10:05 PM
Ah, few months of homelessness again, put things on hold, but is ok again for now so can finally update this crap. Looking forward to warmer weather because I FINALLY have an off-street patch of concrete for both this and the Torry! : )
Most recently - was bored and sick of the white powdery crap all over the paint on the doors and rear quarters.
- was broke and not getting paid for a week.
- was also probably half drunk, as was the fashion of the day.
SOLUTION = Ghetto buffer! (half drill, half kitchen sponge, 100% free)
Most recently - was bored and sick of the white powdery crap all over the paint on the doors and rear quarters.
- was broke and not getting paid for a week.
- was also probably half drunk, as was the fashion of the day.
SOLUTION = Ghetto buffer! (half drill, half kitchen sponge, 100% free)
Edited by BAILLIE, 01 August 2012 - 10:08 PM.
#68
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Posted 01 August 2012 - 10:47 PM
Picked up 3 genuine 17 x 8 Clubby rims in a trade with a mate, tested em out and they suited the car plus they have a stupid offset so they fit well. Hunted ebay and after a day or two found another 4 rims also genuine HSV and as a bonus they came with half decent tyres running 90% tread all round, grabbed em for 415 coins including the tyres which were fitted : )
So yeh, at my new house I have a room that's only for wheels and tyres and it's stacked to the roof. There's more stored at 2 other friends places and some in the back of the Torry still. Ridiculous.
The rear part of the kit was test fitted and in primer still that day, I painted and re-fitted them yesterday & today.
Also took those funkin tail-lights out and banged the stockies back in for now. I thought I was more retarded than I actually am when I installed them. All the globes were in the wrong sockets and I had to pull it all apart and re-do it after testing the operation of the lights. But yeh, the turkeys that made the bloody things can take credit for that segment of retardation, they made the actual assemblies upside down from the factory, and with globe holders that were probably all still the right way up, just to make things interesting (impossible), but they were cheap and they copped a beating (oops) so meh.
(Reverse light has a 21/5 in it which is why the dull face, will fix but I'll have to smash the globe because it's stuck)
So yeh, at my new house I have a room that's only for wheels and tyres and it's stacked to the roof. There's more stored at 2 other friends places and some in the back of the Torry still. Ridiculous.
The rear part of the kit was test fitted and in primer still that day, I painted and re-fitted them yesterday & today.
Also took those funkin tail-lights out and banged the stockies back in for now. I thought I was more retarded than I actually am when I installed them. All the globes were in the wrong sockets and I had to pull it all apart and re-do it after testing the operation of the lights. But yeh, the turkeys that made the bloody things can take credit for that segment of retardation, they made the actual assemblies upside down from the factory, and with globe holders that were probably all still the right way up, just to make things interesting (impossible), but they were cheap and they copped a beating (oops) so meh.
(Reverse light has a 21/5 in it which is why the dull face, will fix but I'll have to smash the globe because it's stuck)
#69
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Posted 01 August 2012 - 11:07 PM
Figured; seeing how I have added some useless crap I might aswell remove some to counter the added weight. (Believe it or not I did actually notice the difference after fitting those things. While driving at speed, it feels as if the air gives the car a little hug as they pass each other by. How quaint. lol )
So yeh, choppy choppy. Coupla crafty friggen bolts in there that the ratchet spanners did the trick for, also there are a handful of rivets on each end which connects the middle to the two outer sections of the bar. The ones on the passenger side were already free (oops) so just used the thing as a giant lever and ran the other way to snap the others out, no dramas. I really don't see any benefit of putting rivets in cars, but whatever.
Can also see in this pic that I was a little ambitious, and smashed a disc after grinding/melting 2 thirds of the length in one go, with smoke pumping off it and all. Grinders are awesome. It had little splatters of molten plastic flying off in all directions, so it was almost as fun as welding : P
So yeh, choppy choppy. Coupla crafty friggen bolts in there that the ratchet spanners did the trick for, also there are a handful of rivets on each end which connects the middle to the two outer sections of the bar. The ones on the passenger side were already free (oops) so just used the thing as a giant lever and ran the other way to snap the others out, no dramas. I really don't see any benefit of putting rivets in cars, but whatever.
Can also see in this pic that I was a little ambitious, and smashed a disc after grinding/melting 2 thirds of the length in one go, with smoke pumping off it and all. Grinders are awesome. It had little splatters of molten plastic flying off in all directions, so it was almost as fun as welding : P
Edited by BAILLIE, 01 August 2012 - 11:11 PM.
#70
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Posted 14 August 2012 - 09:53 PM
Collected this one from the Post Office today : )
Chose it based on dimensions but turns out it's the recommended one for a 6 banger so good choosin I guess. Also pretty exxy, but ya get that. 2 new sets of Sutton Viper drill bits landed yesterday and more gear coming, just need to order the hoses and adapter fittings once I work out sizes/lengths/more funds. Then gauges to plug into the fittings I spose.
Anyway, fits in my grill hole sweet, just wondering if these have a 'right side up' or can be mounted any which way eg: with the inlet/outlet pipes heading up, down or to the sides etc. ??? No directions provided to indicate so I assume does not matter a huge deal. It's a 14 row PWR ally unit, dropped the scales to the tune of 900 grams, plus 50g each for the fittings, can run either - 10 or - 12, probably go with -10 s but the whole dash sizing thing is a bit new to me still.
Chose it based on dimensions but turns out it's the recommended one for a 6 banger so good choosin I guess. Also pretty exxy, but ya get that. 2 new sets of Sutton Viper drill bits landed yesterday and more gear coming, just need to order the hoses and adapter fittings once I work out sizes/lengths/more funds. Then gauges to plug into the fittings I spose.
Anyway, fits in my grill hole sweet, just wondering if these have a 'right side up' or can be mounted any which way eg: with the inlet/outlet pipes heading up, down or to the sides etc. ??? No directions provided to indicate so I assume does not matter a huge deal. It's a 14 row PWR ally unit, dropped the scales to the tune of 900 grams, plus 50g each for the fittings, can run either - 10 or - 12, probably go with -10 s but the whole dash sizing thing is a bit new to me still.
#71
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Posted 14 August 2012 - 10:22 PM
Had these ally catch tanks come in from the UK some months ago. Not much bracket making experience and it def needed something custom made, everywhere under the bonnet was out of place and it's already a mess in there so eventually decided on where they are now, because it ticked all the boxes in terms of positioning and practicality, looks etc and there was already plenty of room made there.
First effort was made from a random plumbing bracket and modified L bracket, with the sight level tube running through the hole left in the bumper where the grill used to mount. Was good for a laugh but looked more ghetto than the rest of the car and I was not happy with it, so just left one side done for a few days and slept on it.
Playing around with the actual car gave me a better feel for what was needed, and eventually I arrived at the simple solution which would achieve what I had first imagined. Enter random half inch copper tube, measure, cut, squish ends in vice and drill holes;
I found a couple of lonely inner headlight bolts that could use some company -
Measured by eye and bent by hand. Only needed to take the drilled holes out a couple mil each way -
I'll get a work bench one day. Results of bracket number 2, very pleased : ) -
Mostly smooth run, with just a little ghetto wobble in the bar, and enough strength to act as a helper to the strut braces that I don't have : P
First effort was made from a random plumbing bracket and modified L bracket, with the sight level tube running through the hole left in the bumper where the grill used to mount. Was good for a laugh but looked more ghetto than the rest of the car and I was not happy with it, so just left one side done for a few days and slept on it.
Playing around with the actual car gave me a better feel for what was needed, and eventually I arrived at the simple solution which would achieve what I had first imagined. Enter random half inch copper tube, measure, cut, squish ends in vice and drill holes;
I found a couple of lonely inner headlight bolts that could use some company -
Measured by eye and bent by hand. Only needed to take the drilled holes out a couple mil each way -
I'll get a work bench one day. Results of bracket number 2, very pleased : ) -
Mostly smooth run, with just a little ghetto wobble in the bar, and enough strength to act as a helper to the strut braces that I don't have : P
#72
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Posted 14 August 2012 - 10:42 PM
Went and grabbed a handful of insulated half inch fuel line clamps the next day. Cost 9 coins for a 4 pack, plus about 3 bux worth of the tube, so 12 dollars total. Everything is sturdy and fixed into place using factory bolt positions, airflow into radiator area is still good and the tanks are angled inwards, with space on the outer sides still, and plenty in the centre where the oil cooler will obviously sit. The sight tubes are visible but out of harms way and the drain plugs are easy to access. Breather/cooler lines (as an after thought) will run nicely up each side of the radiator into the bay, using factory holes previously occupied by the air-con lines for the condenser.
#73
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Posted 14 August 2012 - 11:04 PM
Front passenger side indicator damage - from me, touch parking with the house in my driveway.
Front centre/drivers damage - (pushed in bar and metal behind it) from my old man deciding to reverse his loaded Hiace into the front of the wagon parked in his driveway.
Front damage on drivers side - (outer lens smashed, guard caved and bumper section snapped out) was a friend reversing into the wagon parked across the road from the end of a driveway. She was driving another friends Stato, only a few scratches on that. Had no reverse lights and was about 2am. I asked only for another front bar but never came.
So I finally fixed it myself!
I have a roll of black race tape floating around for the bumper. New full set of front and rear lights coming after the cooler setup is sorted.
In the meantime, found some clear LEDs floating about in the Torry so replaced the rear plate lights in the wagon because the previous globes turned out to be blue, and was not a good combination with the red tail/stops : (
The mounts on the back were different to supplied screws and with no room against the circuit boards inside anyway, so decided to mount using a blue torch flame and some ghetto magic -
A/B -
And oh dear that's added some weight, so made a start on fixing that with a heat gun -
Front centre/drivers damage - (pushed in bar and metal behind it) from my old man deciding to reverse his loaded Hiace into the front of the wagon parked in his driveway.
Front damage on drivers side - (outer lens smashed, guard caved and bumper section snapped out) was a friend reversing into the wagon parked across the road from the end of a driveway. She was driving another friends Stato, only a few scratches on that. Had no reverse lights and was about 2am. I asked only for another front bar but never came.
So I finally fixed it myself!
I have a roll of black race tape floating around for the bumper. New full set of front and rear lights coming after the cooler setup is sorted.
In the meantime, found some clear LEDs floating about in the Torry so replaced the rear plate lights in the wagon because the previous globes turned out to be blue, and was not a good combination with the red tail/stops : (
The mounts on the back were different to supplied screws and with no room against the circuit boards inside anyway, so decided to mount using a blue torch flame and some ghetto magic -
A/B -
And oh dear that's added some weight, so made a start on fixing that with a heat gun -
Edited by BAILLIE, 14 August 2012 - 11:07 PM.
#74
_BAILLIE_
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Posted 24 August 2012 - 04:19 PM
Cooler is mounted. Very pleased with how it's all turned out so far.
Have a thermostatic oil filter plate adapter which has the correct oddball thread size and it checks out well for clearance by eye, will hopefully order some lines and fittings next week but I have a huge amount of bills to pay so might not cover it. There's a special on RDA slotted rotors atm so they take priority. Want a spare diff soon as well, gonna cop a full spool, 31 spline axles, fresh brakes and a rear coilover conversion which will hopefully sort out axle tramp issues. Thinking of a one piece carbon fibre tailshaft with a loop and HD unis after that, which will mean driveline and brakes (and hopefully tramp) all sorted in prep for more torque.
Power steer and mech water pump will be thrown in the bin as soon as I can figure out a bracket to mount the alternator where the air con pump used to live. Front coilover conversion will be done at same time as manual rack. After all that prob pick up another series 1 banger and bore it out to 4.2, or a series 2 ---> VR motor comped, bored and stroked, which would end up roughly 4.6 litre, but need to speak to a builder regarding details there. Keen to start playing with the tune but ALDL cables I had been watching on Ebay are no longer there so that'll have to wait.
Anyway.
Tested out this new thingo instead of just winding a bolt in and out to make a thread. Works beautifully : ) and was good to get a little practice in before I start tapping the rocker covers.
And this it, all done bar the lines. Can see custom airbox and bored out TB from MACE here as well, don't think they have been mentioned in this thread before. They woke the motor up nicely across the board and gave far better economy. Fitted them with new plugs and an oil change just before taking off to QLD for a month, late last year.
Fairly self explanatory. Used 1/4" by 3" bolts for the lower-middle mounts, modified L brackets for the uppers. Used flats and spring washers everywhere and all nuts and bolts are high tensile except the 3"s.
Sits just forward enough to clear the bonnet catch mech behind the cooler and avoids being forward too much to clear the release lever in front of it.
Seems to achieve an element of depth and character on an otherwise rounded off, boring as frOck Commo front end. And without resorting to random neons or retarded body kits. So job well done and once connected up will be two steps closer to being prepped for some decent track work : )
Have a thermostatic oil filter plate adapter which has the correct oddball thread size and it checks out well for clearance by eye, will hopefully order some lines and fittings next week but I have a huge amount of bills to pay so might not cover it. There's a special on RDA slotted rotors atm so they take priority. Want a spare diff soon as well, gonna cop a full spool, 31 spline axles, fresh brakes and a rear coilover conversion which will hopefully sort out axle tramp issues. Thinking of a one piece carbon fibre tailshaft with a loop and HD unis after that, which will mean driveline and brakes (and hopefully tramp) all sorted in prep for more torque.
Power steer and mech water pump will be thrown in the bin as soon as I can figure out a bracket to mount the alternator where the air con pump used to live. Front coilover conversion will be done at same time as manual rack. After all that prob pick up another series 1 banger and bore it out to 4.2, or a series 2 ---> VR motor comped, bored and stroked, which would end up roughly 4.6 litre, but need to speak to a builder regarding details there. Keen to start playing with the tune but ALDL cables I had been watching on Ebay are no longer there so that'll have to wait.
Anyway.
Tested out this new thingo instead of just winding a bolt in and out to make a thread. Works beautifully : ) and was good to get a little practice in before I start tapping the rocker covers.
And this it, all done bar the lines. Can see custom airbox and bored out TB from MACE here as well, don't think they have been mentioned in this thread before. They woke the motor up nicely across the board and gave far better economy. Fitted them with new plugs and an oil change just before taking off to QLD for a month, late last year.
Fairly self explanatory. Used 1/4" by 3" bolts for the lower-middle mounts, modified L brackets for the uppers. Used flats and spring washers everywhere and all nuts and bolts are high tensile except the 3"s.
Sits just forward enough to clear the bonnet catch mech behind the cooler and avoids being forward too much to clear the release lever in front of it.
Seems to achieve an element of depth and character on an otherwise rounded off, boring as frOck Commo front end. And without resorting to random neons or retarded body kits. So job well done and once connected up will be two steps closer to being prepped for some decent track work : )
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