43 replies to this topic

[rexy]

The box was a sweet tight thing with no significant abnormal play. It just wasnt strong enough.

[orangeLJ]

Ive got a supra box in the hx ute, shifter is very sloppy and has bugger all feel, im thinking its the actual.shifter though, so first chance I get it mighy need pulling out.

What is everyones opinion on clutch adjustment? Ive alwaya found with my celica box in the lj and with the ute that the clutch needed to be slightly over adjusted, so causes a bit of premmy clutch wear. Anyone else have issues?

[greens nice]

i have a supra box in mine, VERY strong box behind a n/a holden 6, but like orange lj and 76lxhatch say the shifter feel's pretty bad, hard to tell whether its in gear or not some times,whenever i miss a gear its always changing out of 2nd and i hit between 1st & 3rd because of the super wide H pattern
the dellow short shift feels alot better, you know its in gear but i found the shifter pattern too close which makes for an extremely heavy geartick, a mate made up a longer stick out of a big chunk of ally bar which made it heaps better feel & closer pattern than standard shifter. biggest drawback with standard shifter is the 2 piece shifter with rubber connecting the two, i could still push the shifter forward 3/4 of an inch while in gear with the standard shifter

try stay away from dellow bellhousing, they are made of melted down sigma timing covers etc and warp/twist/crack and end up wearing out the input shaft bearing.
look at a dellow bellhousing then look at crs. dellow is greyish in colour and crs looks like aluminium! the colour says it all.

all in all, fr0cking tough box behind a 6 cyl, no matter how many 7000rpm launches on slicks you do, but shitty feeling shift

Ive got a supra box in the hx ute, shifter is very sloppy and has bugger all feel, im thinking its the actual.shifter though, so first chance I get it mighy need pulling out.

What is everyones opinion on clutch adjustment? Ive alwaya found with my celica box in the lj and with the ute that the clutch needed to be slightly over adjusted, so causes a bit of premmy clutch wear. Anyone else have issues?

you dont mean making the thrust bearing ride and wearing out the thrust ring on the crank prematurely do you?

[76lxhatch]

The shifter I have is a little on the expensive side but very well made and works great - it has a relocated pivot and a weighted knob along with a decent length stick:
http://www.torrie.co.nz/forsale.htm

The best thing you can do with the standard shifter is replace the two bushes, ditch the rubber damper and set up a solid stick to whatever length/position suits best.

orangeLJ sounds like you need a bit longer pedal lever to give you more overall travel on the clutch. I had the exact opposite to begin with, whoever set mine up had around 1 1/2 inches of pedal travel to disengage the clutch! I don't think people spend too much time on getting these things right, even with bolt-in conversion packages.

[rexy]

More broken supra bits from the vault. W58 input shaft - victim of a near stock 185kw 304. Standard style clutch.

Attached Files

•  brokenw58input 001.jpg   210.53K   0 downloads
•  brokenw58input 002.jpg   198.03K   0 downloads
•  brokenw58input 003.jpg   152.35K   0 downloads

[Evan]

As Nevelle says go the Tremec.

Check my thread on keeping the costs down on the conversion.

http://www.gmh-toran...for-the-torana/

If you still want a Supra, PM me as i have one for sale.

Ev

[rodomo]

Mad Mick broke one too.
http://www.gmh-toran...8/page__st__100

[76lxhatch]

I did the same thing recently, didn't quite take enough teeth off that I couldn't nurse it home which was good though.

Going to a Muncie now

[Balfizar]

I did the same thing recently, didn't quite take enough teeth off that I couldn't nurse it home which was good though.

Going to a Muncie now

Ditto on the teeth (lay shaft 2nd gear) and limp home. Going to a Tremec TKO 600 (expensive) another W58 went in in the mean time.
$500 + delivered out of melbourne. Took 3 months to find one, there are 3 gearshift positions and parts are impossible to find, so have all but a layshaft for sale.
Dellow got nothing, a dozen gearbox shops got nothing and can't find any spares.

Cheers
Balfizar

[orangeLJ]

The shifter I have is a little on the expensive side but very well made and works great - it has a relocated pivot and a weighted knob along with a decent length stick: http://www.torrie.co.nz/forsale.htm The best thing you can do with the standard shifter is replace the two bushes, ditch the rubber damper and set up a solid stick to whatever length/position suits best. orangeLJ sounds like you need a bit longer pedal lever to give you more overall travel on the clutch. I had the exact opposite to begin with, whoever set mine up had around 1 1/2 inches of pedal travel to disengage the clutch! I don't think people spend too much time on getting these things right, even with bolt-in conversion packages.

Have you got another link to that shifter assembly?

it goes to a photo site now?

thanks,
Chris

[76lxhatch]

Weird... this one will disappear soon too because its only an auction but:
http://www.trademe.c...n-422789757.htm

edit: I think he sells them on eBay Aus too

Edited by 76lxhatch, 17 November 2011 - 07:26 AM.

[orangeLJ]

while looking for some alternatives....

I found this-

[url="https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/casanas/S5301568-1.jpg"]https://cache.gmh-torana.com.au/i123.photobucket.com/albums/o299/casanas/S5301568-1.jpg[/url]

from here-

http://www.classic-c...er=asc&start=15

defnitely different!

[76lxhatch]

Wow... they must have o-ringed the shifter shafts? Wow...

No wonder he was complaining about breaking shift forks, the Toyota box won't like being rammed through the gears like that!

[orangeLJ]

His description-

first get the tail housing out cut the side and weld a 3/4" aluminum small plate were the 3 shifter rods go tru and a machine shop will make the seal lands for all 3 of 'em after you get the seals i dont remember what seals i use but it should not be hard to find out in the macmaster catalog, then weld a 1/4" side plate of aluminum were the shifter will bolt in, cover with a 3/16 metal plate the factory shifter hole, cut the 3 shifter rods and discard the factory shifter assambly and mecanism, then drill em for the rod end bolts and put it together and adjust the new shifter.


Im so indecisive about buying one of those shifters, lots of $$ for something thats a luxury.

Are there any cheaper after market shifters floating around? just curious as to other options for my street car. I'm definitely looking at one of the NZ ones for the racecar though (where I can see good use/value)

[76lxhatch]

I couldn't find anything cheaper, it is good but I do agree that its a lot of money for not much (cheaper than many other short shifters for other boxes but still). They do a slightly cheaper version that requires your shifter for exchange but still at least $150 from memory.

As I mentioned above, if you remove the rubber mounted part of the stick and muck around a bit with the angles and length, and solid mount the knob, you'll get a lot better feel and a little shorter throw. That and replacing the worn bushes are about the only options for a cheap solution (not that the bushes are particularly cheap).