Obviously try to sort it out with the supplier first, but if you paid via credit card and they incorrectly supplied or supplied something not fit for service, you can dispute the tranaction within 3 months of the purchase with the credit card company.
UC Front subframe on LX Hatchback
Started by
_mr hatchback_
, May 13 2011 01:30 AM
51 replies to this topic
#26
Toranamat69
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Posted 15 May 2011 - 11:43 AM
#27
_uctorry_
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Posted 15 May 2011 - 02:03 PM
yep Datto is right
u wont fit that size caliper on that disc successfully
u wont fit that size caliper on that disc successfully
#28
dattoman
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Posted 15 May 2011 - 11:18 PM
And don't mention my name or this forum when you speak to him please 
#29
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 16 May 2011 - 10:56 AM
Hi again Guys,
I sent an email off to Specialised Brake & Clutch "Gavsport" this morning as I just want this matter fixed & resolved as soon as possible as it is starting too concern me
& not too mention sh#t me also as I explained it to him very clearly what I was doing & wanting from his business & I did ask if there was other options for me to use, I
have managed too get in touch with the suspension shop & they have informed that there is two numbers starting with CP 5100 - 806S4 & 4-CP3345 I think that the
first is the model number if I remember from my phone conversation with Kevin.
I had already sent off my email before I got on this site this morning & I did not say to him directly that a particular person had been trying too help me thou I did say that
I wished that I had sought the advice from the forum as there a few very helpful people on here & I did say Datto that there was a person in WA that was saying that I maybe
going to have some issues with this AP Racing type of caliper setup as it is rather big type for the disc & rim size thou not exact word for word but along those lines.
I am about too get onto Harrop Engineering so as to find out about the steering iron issue now as I just want my car out of the shop & better still to have fantastic steering
or as good as I can get it for a 30 plus year old car, once again thanks for all of your help & input with this ongoing issue that I am encountering with my steering & brake
setup & perhaps if I am able too rear mount these once I swap the stub axles around which I am not that happy about as I just had everything powder-coated.
All the best Guys....
I sent an email off to Specialised Brake & Clutch "Gavsport" this morning as I just want this matter fixed & resolved as soon as possible as it is starting too concern me
& not too mention sh#t me also as I explained it to him very clearly what I was doing & wanting from his business & I did ask if there was other options for me to use, I
have managed too get in touch with the suspension shop & they have informed that there is two numbers starting with CP 5100 - 806S4 & 4-CP3345 I think that the
first is the model number if I remember from my phone conversation with Kevin.
I had already sent off my email before I got on this site this morning & I did not say to him directly that a particular person had been trying too help me thou I did say that
I wished that I had sought the advice from the forum as there a few very helpful people on here & I did say Datto that there was a person in WA that was saying that I maybe
going to have some issues with this AP Racing type of caliper setup as it is rather big type for the disc & rim size thou not exact word for word but along those lines.
I am about too get onto Harrop Engineering so as to find out about the steering iron issue now as I just want my car out of the shop & better still to have fantastic steering
or as good as I can get it for a 30 plus year old car, once again thanks for all of your help & input with this ongoing issue that I am encountering with my steering & brake
setup & perhaps if I am able too rear mount these once I swap the stub axles around which I am not that happy about as I just had everything powder-coated.
All the best Guys....
#30
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:36 PM
The maximum disc for the CP5100-806S4 appears to be 295 mm x 25.4 mm which is a better fit than the CP5200 series, the minimum disc appears to be a 280 mm x 25.4 mm. The HQ disc could still under size and may not pass engineering.
CP5100
CP5100
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 16 May 2011 - 09:46 PM.
#31
dattoman
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Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:40 PM
I'm not so much concerned about the calipers ability to take the disc
But the caliper is clearly physically too long to sit between steering and top of stub axle on that diameter disc
Even with another 15mm or so with the Harrop arm... when you drop that cars weight onto the suspension I think its not going to improve any
But the caliper is clearly physically too long to sit between steering and top of stub axle on that diameter disc
Even with another 15mm or so with the Harrop arm... when you drop that cars weight onto the suspension I think its not going to improve any
#32
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 16 May 2011 - 10:26 PM
The CP5100 is smaller all round compared to the CP5200. It is my understanding that the CP5200 will fit with a 300 mm disc.
The general measurements are CP5100 234 mm x 53 mm vs the CP5200 271 mm x 60 mm. It may be enough.
The general measurements are CP5100 234 mm x 53 mm vs the CP5200 271 mm x 60 mm. It may be enough.
#33
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 17 May 2011 - 12:17 AM
Hi again Guys,
I have been in touch with Harrop & they do have the A9X Steering Irons & they said to me that there has been quite a bit of interest in them of late thou
the young fella could not tell me much about the tech side as I think he was not around in the days of the Mighty Torana's in the 70's thou he did say that
a few guys that were buying them were using something like HQ stubs with WB brakes, & that would sound like they are trying too imitate the A9X setup
or something similar as I do recall the big Girlock brakes on my old A9X sedan.
I did receive an email late this afternoon from the brake guy here in Sydney & he said that if I could not still get the brakes sorted with the new arms that
I should swap the stubs around & if they don't fit he will sort it out for me thou this is still rather frustrating as I did make all very clear when I ordered this
custom AP Racing kit from him, I just don't want to be going back & forth between his shop & the Suspension shop as it should have been straight forward
supply & fit up easy thou I as always seem too run into the odd frustrating hurdle here & there thou that is what you get when you start customising cars.
I hope that they will clear the Tie Rod for the front mount thou if not I will hopefully get to mount them at the rear with I hope not too much hassle as that will
start to test my patience with this situation as I have been pretty cool about it apart from making it very clear via email that I am not happy about this kit, I will
keep you posted on how the Harrop arms go & the main issue of the brake kit if it manages too get sorted the easy way with him or the hard way as I have
been very understanding & trying too keep my cool at the same time. (I think getting older has made me not so hot headed which is a good thing)....
Note: The A9X arms are $335.00 compared to my $60.00 HZ wrecker ones that is a bit harsh thou I have spent a fair amount on the brakes etc what's a bit more.
Thanks again Guys......
I have been in touch with Harrop & they do have the A9X Steering Irons & they said to me that there has been quite a bit of interest in them of late thou
the young fella could not tell me much about the tech side as I think he was not around in the days of the Mighty Torana's in the 70's thou he did say that
a few guys that were buying them were using something like HQ stubs with WB brakes, & that would sound like they are trying too imitate the A9X setup
or something similar as I do recall the big Girlock brakes on my old A9X sedan.
I did receive an email late this afternoon from the brake guy here in Sydney & he said that if I could not still get the brakes sorted with the new arms that
I should swap the stubs around & if they don't fit he will sort it out for me thou this is still rather frustrating as I did make all very clear when I ordered this
custom AP Racing kit from him, I just don't want to be going back & forth between his shop & the Suspension shop as it should have been straight forward
supply & fit up easy thou I as always seem too run into the odd frustrating hurdle here & there thou that is what you get when you start customising cars.
I hope that they will clear the Tie Rod for the front mount thou if not I will hopefully get to mount them at the rear with I hope not too much hassle as that will
start to test my patience with this situation as I have been pretty cool about it apart from making it very clear via email that I am not happy about this kit, I will
keep you posted on how the Harrop arms go & the main issue of the brake kit if it manages too get sorted the easy way with him or the hard way as I have
been very understanding & trying too keep my cool at the same time. (I think getting older has made me not so hot headed which is a good thing)....
Note: The A9X arms are $335.00 compared to my $60.00 HZ wrecker ones that is a bit harsh thou I have spent a fair amount on the brakes etc what's a bit more.
Thanks again Guys......
#35
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:56 AM
Hey there LX Torry Freak,
I am not quite sure what you are trying too say in regards to the HX one-tonner stubs so if you could please explain what you mean a bit more that would be great mate,
as I am not that sure on what it is that you are exactly try too explain here to me on this issue I am needing help with from guys like yourself on the forum.
Thanks again for all of your help guys.
I am not quite sure what you are trying too say in regards to the HX one-tonner stubs so if you could please explain what you mean a bit more that would be great mate,
as I am not that sure on what it is that you are exactly try too explain here to me on this issue I am needing help with from guys like yourself on the forum.
Thanks again for all of your help guys.
#36
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:24 PM
Hi LS2LXHATCH,
I am curious of this spacer that you have mentioned that fits to the K frame in regards to spring compression & if you had an image or two would be great as I could show the suspension shop & also myself could get an idea of what it is & it would be of help I am sure with this suspension & steering issue that I am experiencing, I am heading over to the shop later this evening as they are there till late or should I say the workshop manager is there till late & my mate who did his similar conversion will also be coming over I hope & I will also talk to Castlemaine Rod Shop after this post & see what they say.
Thanks for all of your help Guys....
I am curious of this spacer that you have mentioned that fits to the K frame in regards to spring compression & if you had an image or two would be great as I could show the suspension shop & also myself could get an idea of what it is & it would be of help I am sure with this suspension & steering issue that I am experiencing, I am heading over to the shop later this evening as they are there till late or should I say the workshop manager is there till late & my mate who did his similar conversion will also be coming over I hope & I will also talk to Castlemaine Rod Shop after this post & see what they say.
Thanks for all of your help Guys....
#37
rexy
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 01:13 PM
Hey there LX Torry Freak,
I am not quite sure what you are trying too say in regards to the HX one-tonner stubs so if you could please explain what you mean a bit more that would be great mate,
as I am not that sure on what it is that you are exactly try too explain here to me on this issue I am needing help with from guys like yourself on the forum.
Thanks again for all of your help guys.
He is splitting hairs. The high perf toranas with "HQ" brakes used the heat treated tonner stub axles. Makes no practical difference as their geometry is the same.
#38
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 07:18 PM
This is a picture of an A9X that was for sale on the Australian Muscle Cars website.
The axle on the HQ-WB stub axle is about 20 mm higher than than the LH/LX/UC axle which effectively lowers the car around 20 mm. Therefore when the suspension is on the compression bump stop the car will be 20 mm lower than standard. The A9X had the block welded to the k-frame to restore the standard fully compressed suspension height. To restore normal ride height taller springs are used on the A9X. It could be that the taller springs would bind before hitting the bump stop or it may be just that they wanted to control the minimum suspension height.
The upper control arm mount was also lowered between 20 and 25 mm from the UC mounting position. It appears this was done to correct the changes made to the upper control arm geometry by effectively running the suspension 20 mm higher than normal. The upper control arm bump stop was not modified.
The axle on the HQ-WB stub axle is about 20 mm higher than than the LH/LX/UC axle which effectively lowers the car around 20 mm. Therefore when the suspension is on the compression bump stop the car will be 20 mm lower than standard. The A9X had the block welded to the k-frame to restore the standard fully compressed suspension height. To restore normal ride height taller springs are used on the A9X. It could be that the taller springs would bind before hitting the bump stop or it may be just that they wanted to control the minimum suspension height.
The upper control arm mount was also lowered between 20 and 25 mm from the UC mounting position. It appears this was done to correct the changes made to the upper control arm geometry by effectively running the suspension 20 mm higher than normal. The upper control arm bump stop was not modified.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 18 May 2011 - 07:25 PM.
#39
_Liam_
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 07:19 PM
The HX Stub is thicker and is heat treated and is the exact same as the A9X stub. Same part number and everything. Check out the LX vs UC RTS thread.
#40
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 07:36 PM
^ that is correct however it still has the same geometry as the other HQ-WB stub axles, it is just stronger.
The A9X uses the same part number as the HZ one tonner.
The A9X uses the same part number as the HZ one tonner.
Edited by ls2lxhatch, 18 May 2011 - 07:42 PM.
#41
_Liam_
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Posted 18 May 2011 - 07:41 PM
Exactly, my apologies, I somehow assumed he wanted almost A9X suspension with upgraded brakes... If you can get a HX tonner stub why not?
#42
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:35 AM
Hi Guys,
You guys totally rock man as this a big help to me & I will be showing the guys at the suspension shop all of this informative information & reading the the A9X versus UC thread early when I get up as it is rather late
thou before I go I should tell you all that there was a guy at the same suspension shop earlier this year while my car was still in there that was a Barbados Green L34 style Torana that had the welded block on the K Frame
& I was wondering if it was for the turning circle or something & now I know, & I really am so grateful for all of your help & as stated before I will keep you posted on how this turns out for me in my quest for getting this job
done & also spot on with the end result as I am determined too get all the info & at the end of the day if it is not is only that I have excepted bad workmanship & that is not going too happen.
P.S I really wish I had gotten in touch with the guy that had the Barbados Green L34 before did all of the smoothing of my K Frame & blasting & powder-coating as I think I would have welded that block & he may have been
of a big help thou I still might try as I did ask & the car was from the same body shop that did the panel & paint on my SLR 5000 that I just got before Xmas & it had a really cool or should I say tough 5 Speed box.
All the best guys.....
You guys totally rock man as this a big help to me & I will be showing the guys at the suspension shop all of this informative information & reading the the A9X versus UC thread early when I get up as it is rather late
thou before I go I should tell you all that there was a guy at the same suspension shop earlier this year while my car was still in there that was a Barbados Green L34 style Torana that had the welded block on the K Frame
& I was wondering if it was for the turning circle or something & now I know, & I really am so grateful for all of your help & as stated before I will keep you posted on how this turns out for me in my quest for getting this job
done & also spot on with the end result as I am determined too get all the info & at the end of the day if it is not is only that I have excepted bad workmanship & that is not going too happen.
P.S I really wish I had gotten in touch with the guy that had the Barbados Green L34 before did all of the smoothing of my K Frame & blasting & powder-coating as I think I would have welded that block & he may have been
of a big help thou I still might try as I did ask & the car was from the same body shop that did the panel & paint on my SLR 5000 that I just got before Xmas & it had a really cool or should I say tough 5 Speed box.
All the best guys.....
#43
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 19 May 2011 - 02:05 AM
You should be able to bolt a block onto the k-frame from the inside instead of welding, you would need to remove the springs. If you don't want to remove the springs then you could fit nutserts to the k-frame use countersunk bolts through the block.
At one stage I was planning to machine blocks from 50 mm aluminium round bar and bolt them to the k-frame.
At one stage I was planning to machine blocks from 50 mm aluminium round bar and bolt them to the k-frame.
#44
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 21 May 2011 - 01:15 AM
Hi LS2LXHATCH,
I was only just talking to the suspension shop today & one of the guys was saying that perhaps we could do something like what you have explained as I used Riv- Nuts on my flares which is a similar system to the nutserts that you have mentioned as I wanted to attach my flares differently as I am not going for an exact A9X Hatchback look, I saw this system on a guys car here in Sydney & I thought it was pretty cool as there is just one Stainless Steel Button Head instead of the original Hex Head setup & I think it is neater too & as I said different from the big bulky original Hex Heads that they used.
You say that you were planning on using round bar is there a reason that you would use round bar? instead of the square shaped block that was like the original unit that you posted the image of & what I now know is what I saw on the L34's K Frame that was in the shop that I wished I looked into further in the way of contacting the owner thru the shop, I have the A9X Steering Irons ordered & they should arrive early next week so I should have some better news hopefully by the end of next week to tell you guys as I am itching to find out if this AP Racing front brake kit is going too fit after all of this trial & error & frustration that I am having with this setup as it has never been this hard before thou it is something different I have done on this project.
All the best Guys & thanks again LS2LXHATCH for your help & input mate.
I was only just talking to the suspension shop today & one of the guys was saying that perhaps we could do something like what you have explained as I used Riv- Nuts on my flares which is a similar system to the nutserts that you have mentioned as I wanted to attach my flares differently as I am not going for an exact A9X Hatchback look, I saw this system on a guys car here in Sydney & I thought it was pretty cool as there is just one Stainless Steel Button Head instead of the original Hex Head setup & I think it is neater too & as I said different from the big bulky original Hex Heads that they used.
You say that you were planning on using round bar is there a reason that you would use round bar? instead of the square shaped block that was like the original unit that you posted the image of & what I now know is what I saw on the L34's K Frame that was in the shop that I wished I looked into further in the way of contacting the owner thru the shop, I have the A9X Steering Irons ordered & they should arrive early next week so I should have some better news hopefully by the end of next week to tell you guys as I am itching to find out if this AP Racing front brake kit is going too fit after all of this trial & error & frustration that I am having with this setup as it has never been this hard before thou it is something different I have done on this project.
All the best Guys & thanks again LS2LXHATCH for your help & input mate.
#45
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 21 May 2011 - 02:57 AM
You're welcome, hopefully the A9X arms will solve the problem.
I was planning to use round bar because I have some aluminium round bar offcuts that will do the job and I think they will look better than the square block. I also have a lathe so I can easily machine the bar to the height I want.
You can buy aluminium offcuts (the offcuts are from making Speedflow fittings) by the kilo from Motorsport Connections. The 60 mm offcuts would probably be the go.
I was planning to use round bar because I have some aluminium round bar offcuts that will do the job and I think they will look better than the square block. I also have a lathe so I can easily machine the bar to the height I want.
You can buy aluminium offcuts (the offcuts are from making Speedflow fittings) by the kilo from Motorsport Connections. The 60 mm offcuts would probably be the go.
#46
jason365
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Posted 23 May 2011 - 02:54 PM
hi would recommend getting your new steering arms crack tested or at least have a good hard look at them.
#47
ls2lxhatch
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Posted 23 May 2011 - 03:03 PM
hi would recommend getting your new steering arms crack tested or at least have a good hard look at them.
Have you had problems with the Harrop arms?
#48
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Posted 24 May 2011 - 11:26 AM
i got my hz tonner stub axels, uc steering arms & harrop arms crack tested. holden stuff passed but one of the a9x arms was pourous, you could see a void iside one of the bolt holes it was abou 9mm deep.they happily replaced it and that one is at the crack testers now.
#49
A9X
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Posted 24 May 2011 - 12:06 PM
i got my hz tonner stub axels, uc steering arms & harrop arms crack tested. holden stuff passed but one of the a9x arms was pourous, you could see a void iside one of the bolt holes it was abou 9mm deep.they happily replaced it and that one is at the crack testers now.
Harrop
Porous
Hmmm words that go together
#50
_mr hatchback_
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Posted 04 June 2011 - 01:52 AM
Hi Guys,
I was in the shop Suspension shop earlier this week & I has my mate come over who did a similar conversion that I am doing without the Harrop arms &
also the AP Racing brakes as he used the big Girlocks on his setup, we changed over one of the Steering Irons while we were there & it did hit the AP
Racing caliper & I must add it was still up on stands & once it goes back on the ground & they get back into it next week I will see how it really works.
I also will take the rockwell advice & get them tested for the tensile strength as I did not think about that as I thought being Harrop they would be fine thou
you just don't know do you as I once had 3 Artcarr Gearbox Spraggs fail on my past SS Hatchback & it was way way under the Horsepower rating that they
said it would handle, so you just never no & you sometimes put your trust in good faith in reputable companies & when they have a good name you think it
will be alright as they have been around a while.
Al the best Guys.....
I was in the shop Suspension shop earlier this week & I has my mate come over who did a similar conversion that I am doing without the Harrop arms &
also the AP Racing brakes as he used the big Girlocks on his setup, we changed over one of the Steering Irons while we were there & it did hit the AP
Racing caliper & I must add it was still up on stands & once it goes back on the ground & they get back into it next week I will see how it really works.
I also will take the rockwell advice & get them tested for the tensile strength as I did not think about that as I thought being Harrop they would be fine thou
you just don't know do you as I once had 3 Artcarr Gearbox Spraggs fail on my past SS Hatchback & it was way way under the Horsepower rating that they
said it would handle, so you just never no & you sometimes put your trust in good faith in reputable companies & when they have a good name you think it
will be alright as they have been around a while.
Al the best Guys.....
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