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#1 _Dan355_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 01:37 PM

I have done a list below of a new front suspension setup that i have got from various threads and with talking with a few members over the past 5 months.
If people can advise me if i am going down the right path or the wrong path and if there is anything else i would need to do.
All comments appreciated.

FRONT END
CALLIPERS � CP5200-808S4/CP5200-809S4
BRAKE PADS �?
BRACKETS � Home made
HOSES � Custom made?
DISCS � DBA 5046B (328mm)
HUBS � Commodore (eBay) http://www.ebay.com....=item20bc620344

WHEEL BEARINGS - #2771
K-FRAME � UC, Lower top control arms 25mm as per A9X?
BUSHES � Superpro/Rubber upper.
BALL JOINTS � Moog K5103 lower/Moog K5108 upper
ARMS � Harrop
SWAY BAR � Kmac
SPRINGS � Lovell�s HD 760lb
SHOCKS � Adjustable Koni�s/Pajero part number 82-5074/Bilsteins part number?
STEERING RACK � UC 9942632-20.1/solid mount

Regards
Dan

#2 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 01:48 PM

Talk to Neil ( dattoman ) about the pads, he would be the best to advise there.
Get custom braided stainless brake lines, they don't cost all that much.
By the Commodore hubs, I will assume you are going to use commodore stud pattern.
Wheel bearing part number is not familiar to me, so I won't comment.
Suspension bushes are mainly preference. Toranamat69 ( I think ) found some trick ones for Chevs that fitted straight in. They are the ones i will be using.
The Harrop arms indicate you will be using HQ - WB stub axles.

Please correct me if you think I have mis-interpreted something.

The only other changes I would make is purely preference.

#3 _Dan355_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 02:20 PM

Talk to Neil ( dattoman ) about the pads, he would be the best to advise there.
Get custom braided stainless brake lines, they don't cost all that much.
By the Commodore hubs, I will assume you are going to use commodore stud pattern.
Wheel bearing part number is not familiar to me, so I won't comment.
Suspension bushes are mainly preference. Toranamat69 ( I think ) found some trick ones for Chevs that fitted straight in. They are the ones i will be using.
The Harrop arms indicate you will be using HQ - WB stub axles.

Please correct me if you think I have mis-interpreted something.

The only other changes I would make is purely preference.


Thanks Chopper, i will be getting all my brake stuff through Datto, i just wanted to get other peoples preferences on what they like to use.
Yes was looking at using commodore stud pattern
Yes i have the HZ 1tonne axles and i also have the harrop arms already.
Be good to find out what bushes Toranamat69 has used anymore info on this.

regards
Dan

#4 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 02:51 PM

I have the info on one of my hard drives somewhere, including part numbers.

#5 A9X

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 03:44 PM

Dan i'm concerned with your 328 mm discs.

I don't think you will get them inside a 15 inch rim.

Additionally, i presumed the commodore hubs were selected in order for you to use 2 piece rotors

Edited by A9X, 07 September 2011 - 03:45 PM.


#6 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 04:45 PM

The Del-a-lum bushes Toranamatt69 has are not rubber. In your specs you specified rubber instead of SuperPro so you probably do not want Del-a-lum bushes bushes.

More Pictures Here.

Posted Image

I have a new set of adjustable Konis for sale.

#7 A9X

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 05:32 PM

big bore koni's Andy ??

#8 A9X

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 05:39 PM

Where are those bushed arms ^^ meant to fit??

#9 _cruiza_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:25 PM

Toranamatt69 used what in effect was a bearing rather then a bush. this would eliminate all play in the lower bush, however this is not as easy as first sounds. If you look at where the lower bushes fit the rear one does not line up with the front, this was done deliberately as the arm moves away from its normal position the bush binds up providing anti dive characteristics to the front end. To fit the bush / bearings Toranamatt69 had to realign the rear bush mounting so it lined up with the front and then; to put anti-dive back into the front end geometry he relocated the top control arm mounts so it was angled slightly

#10 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:42 PM

cruiza is correct about the lower arms, but there are no problems for the top arms.

#11 _Dan355_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 06:55 PM

A9X - i did go and see Datto about this stuff a while ago, and i probably have written the wrong number down. But i was led to believe that you could run 16x8 for targa but im not 100% sure.
- Yes i was going for the 2 peice rotors
I do have to talk to Datto about this as im confused and i know he has done a few setups here with the similar gear and his knowledge on the subject is amazing.

Ls2lxhatch - wow thats a lotta work out of my league for sure
- What Konis do you have forsale are they the Pajeros? as i have the standard torana ones already in the car.



Cheers for the replys

#12 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 07:58 PM

Mine are Konis are standard. I wasn't aware that the Pajero were also used.

Front 80-2156SP1
Rear 80-2299

The Del-a-lum bushes Toranamatt69 has are for the upper control arm.

#13 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 09:47 PM

Dan, if you want to run a 16" rim with 328mm discs, you need to use the setup they have for Commodore Cup cars. Get the details from here.

#14 dattoman

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 09:50 PM

Dave runs 328mm discs , AP calipers , HQ stubs and 16" wheels
So have a look at his Dan

Its all about wheel clearance and offsets mate

#15 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 09:55 PM

So which member is Dave?

#16 _Dan355_

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 11:11 PM

Chopper -Dave just run Targa West 2011 (355 LX)
- Thanks for the info Chopper

Datto - Just read through all of daves build thread not much in there but i think im finally getting it.
- Are you still working at the same place i last saw you?

Dan

#17 dattoman

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Posted 07 September 2011 - 11:26 PM

For now mate yes I'm still there

Tiny is in town....I am not confirmed on details but we might be going for wogwheels (pizza) somewhere Friday
I think Dave , Mark and Darren are going too
Might check with Tiny and see if its cool with him and if your free... come shoot shit with us
Dave and Darren both run the same front brakes you want too

#18 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:03 AM

Chopper -Dave just run Targa West 2011 (355 LX)
- Thanks for the info Chopper

Datto - Just read through all of daves build thread not much in there but i think im finally getting it.
- Are you still working at the same place i last saw you?

Dan


Can you post a link to the thread with his brake details, I couldn't find it using the search function.

#19 A9X

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 12:20 PM

Dan you can run 16 x 8 , if you quote the A9X as your base . Targa rules in C3 allow a 2 inch raise in diameter and width.

#20 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 03:23 PM

Can you post a link to the thread with his brake details, I couldn't find it using the search function.


Dave (335LX)

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 08 September 2011 - 03:23 PM.


#21 ozyozyozy

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 04:55 PM

datto hooked me up a number of years ago with brakes, he`s the go to guy. ap`s 4 spot 328mm rotors, the ONLY way to go.
as per a9x`s screwing around id recomend using a custom 900 pound front spring, made a big difference to my car.
i think the 1100 might be a bit to strong for targa or hillclimb work, some of the road surfaces are no were near the quality of a purpose built circuit.
i`d recommend using a custom 27mm front sway bar.
im using of the shelf koni`s, and the valving is not good enough, if you havent bought shocks yet go with bilsteins, you can still get them iv checked.
I have just pulled my shocks out to get sent off to revalve them, until i decide a permenant solution. wheels world in ozzy park are the local agent for KW, he can get the front and rear coil over setup that UWE our german branch had made, i`ve been disussing this as an option for my car.

#22 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 08:10 PM

The hardest part with coil overs in the standard Torana front suspension is finding suitable springs for a track car. Last time I spoke to The German the initial springs he had for the front were 140 kg / 308 lb. I let him know that the street cars run around 650 lb. and the track cars run 860 - 1000 lb. springs. It is going to bedifficult if not impossible to make a 900 lb. spring that fits inside the shock tower of the factory k-frame like the springs he has now.


The only advantage I can see in fitting coil over shocks in the factory suspension (QA1 Pro-Coil Style) is that it is easier to adjust the ride height. This is worthwhile for a street car, I don't know if it has any value on a track car.
To get the full benefit from coil over suspension on a track car you need to move the lower shock mount closer to the ball joint and alter the k-frame so a normal coil over shock can be used. This will allow you to quickly change shocks and springs and the reduced spring ratio will mean you can use lighter springs and the shocks will have less work to do.



#23 _CHOPPER_

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Posted 08 September 2011 - 11:31 PM


Can you post a link to the thread with his brake details, I couldn't find it using the search function.


Dave (335LX)


Thanks for the link.

#24 ozyozyozy

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 09:04 PM

thanks ls2lxhatch didnt no about the spring rates the kw coilovers were, i think that just squashed one of my ideas, i agree with the 800 to 1000 pds spring, 308 is no were near enough.
my other idea is mcdonalds bros arms (rang them today, they DO have a uc upper arm, its just listed as a HG arm as they are the same) DMS shocks remounted on front to have as you said shock position near lower ball joint and possibly cut the upper mount of k frame, replate the side of frame and add a double shear mount for top of shock.
want to discuss this with a local guru before i go spending money, so be a while away.

the up side to using a better shock is a larger main body which resists heat fade and there is more shims on either side of the piston to better adjust valving(response of the shock), if you can adapt a race style coilover, there opens a huge range of spring rates.

any other idea`s for front end please speak up, i really want to no whats going on out there.

#25 ls2lxhatch

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Posted 09 September 2011 - 09:30 PM

I sent a Factory UC arm late last year to Mc Donald Bros and they found it matched their tubular HG arms. I have the McDonald Bros UC tubular upper arms and tubular lower arms.


I spent a considerable amount of time considering different suspension options including the Mc Donald Bros tubular k-frame, making my own or modifying the Torana k-frame something like this below (Cobra I think). In the end I went with the stock k-fame and tubular arms.


Posted Image


I think at the end of the day running the factory setup is the best value for money option. You would probably get more performance improvement for you dollar spending the money somewhere else on the car. The tubular suspension may also limit the races you can attend.

I you are going to spend the sort of money required to design and build a new front suspension then you would have to consider something like the RRS coil over strut.



I should also add that I am just a backyard tinkerer, I have no experience with track cars or qualifications in suspension design.

Edited by ls2lxhatch, 09 September 2011 - 09:44 PM.





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