61 replies to this topic

[S pack]

Long time since I had my front springs out but as far as I can remember the LC/LJ front springs aren't indexed at the top in the suspension tower, only at the bottom on the lower control arm.

You could be right . I have not done a set of lc-lj springs for some time but this is the case on lh-uc and hq-wb 's . They have a lip that sits on the inside diameter of the top of the coil spring and if not located in there properly can cause uneven heights or the spring rubs on the x-member.

Bit of a misunderstanding on my part there Rob.
The LC/LJ spring tower has a lip that protrudes down into the centre of the spring just like the other Holden's. What I was referring to was a recess in the seat that the end of the coil must align with, just like you find on a lower control arm. Does that make sense?

Cheers
Dave

[71xu1]

I had a quick read but couldn't see if this had been mentioned yet. Have you had the springs out and sat them alongside each other to compare heights.

Cheers Dave

[S pack]

I reckon the ball joint in the drivers side LCA appears to be sitting at an unusual angle in comparison to the ball joint in the passenger side LCA.
I'm thinking the ball joint end of the drivers side LCA is bent up which is causing the drivers side of the chassis to sit lower.
Does anyone else see this or am I just seeing some sort of illusion because of camera angle or lighting or something?

http://www.gmh-toran...-1316940681.jpg

[Potta]

The lower control arm(think that's what its called) on the right hand side in the pic is upside down.

The wishbone thingy's are opposite to each other.




The one on the left has the straighter edge at the top, the one on the right has it at the bottom.

Could be the pic or I could be an idiot, but that seems to be the problem to me.

Edited by Potta, 26 September 2011 - 04:05 PM.

[S pack]

The lower control arm(think that's what its called) on the right hand side in the pic is upside down.

The wishbone thingy's are opposite to each other.




The one on the left has the straighter edge at the top, the one on the right has it at the bottom.

Could be the pic or I could be an idiot, but that seems to be the problem to me.

Hey Potta

What you are describing about the LCA's is normal on an LC/LJ. Because the LC/LJ uses one lower control arm that fits both sides what you are actually seeing is the different sides of the same part. Have a look at your own Torana and you'll see it looks the same.

Cheers
Dave.

[Potta]

I'll check but I'm not convinced.

The profile looks different, and the right hand side has the lip at the bottom, the left hand side has it at the top.

It could just be the pic, and I have to admit, it's been quite a while since I've been under the front of a torrie, so I'll believe you for now.

[S pack]

G/day Macka

That is a pretty bad bend in your LCA, worse than I originally though it might be.
I wouldn't expect you'd need a new upper arm as it isn't subjected to the same forces as the lower arm.
I would just replace the bent arm (or it may be possible to get it straightened) and see how it goes. Looking at your pic the bottom of your drivers side wheel is going to come out a fair bit with a straight LCA and this will enable you to remove some upper arm shims.

Also replacing the bent LCA will affect your toe in setting on the steering rack tie rods. Maybe the drivers side tyre seems to stick out more at the front because you have actually got toe out instead of toe in.

BTW, personally I would throw those blue urethane lower bump stops and get rubber ones. The rubber bump will be a bit softer and won't transfer as much sudden shock to the ball joint area of the control arm if the suspension bottoms out. If that makes sense.

Cheers
Dave.

Edited by S pack, 26 September 2011 - 11:14 PM.

[S pack]

Dave you are right about the toe out now l look at it. Hopefully I have got onto another LCA arm from forum member so will fit up with new standard height front springs and fingers crossed all my problems are sorted and l can continue on with finishing off build. Not far away now. Thanks Dave for your help and also to everyone else it is greatly appreciated. Will post up results when all fitted back up.Cheers Macka

Sounds good mate, hope it all goes well.
BTW, love your GTR, she's looking really schmick.

Cheers
Dave.

[orangeLJ]

Id be tempted to replace it just in case. That lower arm has copped a decent whack, so id expect the top one would have taken a hit too.

Are droptech stubs still $700 odd a pair?

[S pack]

Very annoyed. Got new lower control arm on today and whilst it helped it still wasn't right. Then did a comparison of the top control arm with the passenger side and guess what. Yep it is twisted up to the shit house. So now I have to replace it. Now from reading the manual l realize I have to drop the front crossmember out of the car to change this one over. Aarrrrgggghhhhh.

G/day Macka

You don't have to drop the crossmember out completely, just lower it enough to get the arm pivot shaft between the chassis rail and the crossmember tower.

[S pack]

Geez mate I feel for you, not having much luck ATM.

If the crossmember bolts up easily enough then it is probably OK.

Maybe a really stupid thought but in your build thread you said, quote:"Front and rear are 16x7. Fronts have 4.5 inch backspace and rears have 4 inch back space".

Wouldn't have a rear wheel on the drivers side front by mistake?

Other than that, and I'm not familiar with the Stubtec steering knuckles, are they an identical pair or can you get ones with different set outs (if that's the right term to use) ie: can you get stubs with a different distance from the centre line through the upper and lower ball joint holes to the caliper mounting pad.

If so it could be possible they sold you a mismatched pair of stubs.
I hope you can understand what I mean cause I'm not sure I do.

Cheers
Dave.

Edited by S pack, 04 October 2011 - 09:50 PM.