I've got a hurst shifter, its left hand mounted but I've modified the shift lever so it is centered and taped a thread to suit the M21 gear knob
It all fits neatly within the hatchback center console
The original hurst shift lever was to far to the left and very short, making gear changes difficult
Muncie V Saginaw
Started by
_LHSL308_
, Nov 30 2011 07:51 PM
75 replies to this topic
#51
AbsynthHatch
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Posted 12 December 2011 - 09:57 PM
#52
yel327
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 05:43 AM
I have a sag behind my worked 202 so far so good dont have any worries taking out to 7400 rpm and still no bang even the diff is still hanging in there much to my suprise i think it will do the job in your car as well
cheers gene.
Saginaw will last all day behind a 202! That is hardly a comparison to a stroked 308 in a much heavier LH. Talk to 73BATHXU1HTBATH350 about how many Saginaws and 10 bolt diffs he blew in his HK with 350ci engine. Even LSD 9" diffs. Until he fitted a Muncie and spool and never broke anything again.
#53
warrenm
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 07:57 AM
Hurst Indy shifter with the stick centered & Holden knob.
#54
warrenm
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 09:30 AM
The shifter isn't fitted in the car at the moment, but when it was it was in the same position as the std GMH stick. The bent section is hidden by the shifter boot. I think that GMH used a bent section with a similar shape in HQ when fitted with a Muncie.
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#55
_LHSL308_
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 10:33 AM
Oh mate thats awesome, all I need to do is get a friend of mine to make that bent section up for me and bolt it in. Then just undo the boot section and move it over as far as I can. Then I can look at getting a centre console fitted. Thanks Warren bud you've been a big help.
Do you know if it made the gears harder to get into, obviously a slightly longer gear shift?
Do you know if it made the gears harder to get into, obviously a slightly longer gear shift?
Edited by Gonedeaf, 13 December 2011 - 10:35 AM.
#56
warrenm
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 11:35 AM
It shift good. Depending on the bracket that the shifter is bolted, the stick was moved across 45mm to be in the centre of the box.
#57
_Ozzie Picker_
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 05:36 PM
i agree the saginaw will do the job,when it comes to street driving,
,as wayno has explained, he wants to take the car to calder,a 355 on a sticky surface,then a totally different out come,unless the engine is gutless of course.
keep it together and someone with a street car will buy.
,as wayno has explained, he wants to take the car to calder,a 355 on a sticky surface,then a totally different out come,unless the engine is gutless of course.
keep it together and someone with a street car will buy.
#58
_Liam_
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Posted 13 December 2011 - 06:25 PM
Oh mate thats awesome, all I need to do is get a friend of mine to make that bent section up for me and bolt it in. Then just undo the boot section and move it over as far as I can. Then I can look at getting a centre console fitted. Thanks Warren bud you've been a big help.
Do you know if it made the gears harder to get into, obviously a slightly longer gear shift?
Here GD.
http://www.gmh-toran...bricating-this/
#59
_LHSL308_
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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:25 AM
Thanks for that guys. I might try and get that piece made up and see how it works. When I do get around to it i'll add some photo's here.
#60
_Bomber Watson_
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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:25 PM
Do you have a drill, a grinder, and a vise??
Make it yaself ya slacko!!
Cheers.
Make it yaself ya slacko!!
Cheers.
#61
_LHSL308_
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Posted 14 December 2011 - 09:26 PM
Yep got drill and grinder but no vice and yes its vice not vise hahahahaha
#62
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 07:12 AM
Had 2 saginaw 4 speeds in my LX Torry behind 350 Chev .Seized 1 st gear on mainshaft both boxes .They don't like high rpm top gear driving .Needs more clearance /better lubrication on mainshaft and 1 st gear .Had one lock up at 100 kph+ .Wasn't a nice experience .1st time ,thought ok ,second, its gone .
my 2c
Bernie
my 2c
Bernie
#63
_LHSL308_
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Posted 10 February 2012 - 01:06 PM
Not many in the corner of the Saginaws. You seem to have to be very lucky to get a good one.
#64
_Ozzie Picker_
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Posted 11 February 2012 - 01:53 PM
They are good behind less powerful engines,not lucky.
308,s don,t seem to break them from my experiences,or lighter lj,s probably wouldn,t bust them either.
Ive broken them behind a 350,with no wheel spin,just under power,and it had been fully rebuilt using new parts,all the teeth ended up in the bottom of that box.
Like anything, more power need stronger drive train.
308,s don,t seem to break them from my experiences,or lighter lj,s probably wouldn,t bust them either.
Ive broken them behind a 350,with no wheel spin,just under power,and it had been fully rebuilt using new parts,all the teeth ended up in the bottom of that box.
Like anything, more power need stronger drive train.
#65
_2door350_
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Posted 13 March 2012 - 09:16 AM
My new autogear M22W arrived last week from Medatronics Corp, costs were $US 1900 for the box $US470 shipping plus another $370 for gst and import/customs duties so you should expect about $2850 all up
#67
_LHSL308_
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Posted 04 June 2012 - 05:56 AM
My engine has just been pulled out and pulled apart from a rebuild. Got a Saginaw 4spd behind a 308 (not 355 as was previously supposed to be) with L34 HQ heads, Crane 314 hydraulic cam. Will this gearbox stand up to not only street driving but the occassional run down Calder Park say twice a year?
#68
unclefestal34s
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Posted 04 June 2012 - 08:18 AM
My engine has just been pulled out and pulled apart from a rebuild. Got a Saginaw 4spd behind a 308 (not 355 as was previously supposed to be) with L34 HQ heads, Crane 314 hydraulic cam. Will this gearbox stand up to not only street driving but the occassional run down Calder Park say twice a year?
if you pussyfoot it might hang there,..also depends if its been reco with new parts as with the age
fatigue and and wear from a abuse,...
one of the common problems back then was breaking the
ears of the housing..
better to go a muncie or super t10 fine spline boxes..
the saginaw is a ok box but don't handle torque to well or extra weight..
my gearbox guy told me back in 1980 that were slightly stronger than the
aust m21 box which then told than weren't that strong..
only my thoughts and experience..
#69
_LHSL308_
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Posted 18 January 2013 - 08:21 PM
Well finally got an M20 Muncie for a decent price 2.52 first gear. Took the box to a gearbox specialist and he gave me the good news that I might want to replace the cluster as he thinks it might have been running low on oil for a time. He is going to pull it down on Monday and let me know if he finds anything else, I hope not as it looked ok when looking in the side cover and all gears looked fine as well, even shifted ok.
Probably have to replace 2nd and 3rd gears as well to match the cluster. An M22 gearset might even be in the offering.
Anyone bought from this mob before?
http://www.tbtrans.c...cie_4_speed.htm
Probably have to replace 2nd and 3rd gears as well to match the cluster. An M22 gearset might even be in the offering.
Anyone bought from this mob before?
http://www.tbtrans.c...cie_4_speed.htm
#70
Posted 18 January 2013 - 08:53 PM
What damage has it caused? Should be able to replace pretty well all the bearings and its unlikely to have damaged the shaft...
#71
warrenm
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Posted 19 January 2013 - 07:02 AM
I purchased all the stuff from http://www.autogear....ghPerHome1.html they make most of the gear plus some other ratio gear sets that others don't list & good to deal with. 
#72
_LHSL308_
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Posted 19 January 2013 - 08:18 AM
What damage has it caused? Should be able to replace pretty well all the bearings and its unlikely to have damaged the shaft...
He said that the cluster has some sort of marks on it that indicate it has been running low on oil. He also said that if you were to run this gearbox it might run but will be noisy and might not last that long. I'll get more details on Monday.
I am sure this guy knows his stuff as he's been recommended to me from my engine builder, the guys around 75 years old and works from home doing gearboxes and diffs only. He has all the right gear too, lathes etc etc.
Edited by Gonedeaf, 19 January 2013 - 08:19 AM.
#73
_LHSL308_
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Posted 19 January 2013 - 08:46 AM
If you guys with a Muncie were going to replace some parts in an old Muncie gearbox what would you replace? The iron midplate for example?
Edited by Gonedeaf, 19 January 2013 - 08:47 AM.
#74
warrenm
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Posted 20 January 2013 - 07:20 AM
I'd fit an iron midplate for sure, at around $70(+freight) it's cheap insurance. Unless you are going to race it, just stick to the basics & fit a "Master rebuild kit" which has all the small parts & bearings required + a new cluster by the sounds of it.
#75
_LHSL308_
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Posted 21 January 2013 - 11:19 PM
What damage has it caused? Should be able to replace pretty well all the bearings and its unlikely to have damaged the shaft...
There are some sort of lines in the actual teeth of the gears which apparently is an indication of running on low oil. We have just decided to get a complete gear kit from the cluster, input shaft and 1st..2nd and 3rd gear. I am also getting a rebuild kit which includes gaskets, seals, new brass sychro's, front and rear bearings, rear bushing etc etc.
There is going to be nothing left to chance when this car is finished especially the drivetrain. Already has the 9inch with 3.55 so that will only need a checking over by a diff specialist hopefully
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