hey guys.i got a new exhaust fitted last week and was running a lot slower.so been retuneing and had advannced the timeing a fair bit.it wouldnt start on sat but did try turning over.i recharged the batt and tryed again today and the car wont really turn over,maybe for a 2nd.its running straight gas also and the hoses look pretty cold.wat could cause the car not to start and all wireing appears to be dine.as i said ignition on and it clicks but wont turn over now and suspect the batt to be fine..cheers
V8 wont start...
Started by
Guns n roses
, May 30 2006 01:15 PM
32 replies to this topic
#1
Guns n roses
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 01:15 PM
#2
makka
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 02:04 PM
it could be because its a ford!
#3
Guns n roses
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 02:09 PM
shhh,none of that!!!!
what else could it be?
what else could it be?
#4
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 02:13 PM
over advanced. did you do anything else or just the exhaust. you havnt bumped any wires off when you were playing round with it?
#5
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 02:31 PM
nah wires are all fine..and i put timeing back to where it was..and the car just wont turn over..
#6
Guns n roses
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 06:02 PM
teriminals are clean.all wires are fine.connections to starter are fine.when i turn the key u hear it click.but wont turn over.its in park.i noticed it doesnt make the click if u try start in drive.but in park..clicks and wont turn over!
#7
_Loki_
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 06:44 PM
It's your starter motor.
The click you hear is the solenoid throwing the gear out but it's lacking the oomph to spin the fly on the engine to get it turning.
[edit] The automatic, if wired legally and correctly should only be able to start the engine in Neutral of Park - that's why it doesn't "click" when you try in Drive (it's cut off as a safety thing)
Pull your starter motor out and connect it directly to a battery, the gear should throw out and spin rapidly since it doesn't have any resistance (Rapidly is an understatement), if it throws out and spins very slowly then fiddle with the solenoid, its most likely having emotional trouble.
Even a virtually flat battery should have the guts to spin a resistless starter rapidly.
Alternatively just test it on a battery you know isn't dead
Could just be a loose/worn connection in the solenoid.
Goodluck
The click you hear is the solenoid throwing the gear out but it's lacking the oomph to spin the fly on the engine to get it turning.
[edit] The automatic, if wired legally and correctly should only be able to start the engine in Neutral of Park - that's why it doesn't "click" when you try in Drive (it's cut off as a safety thing)
Pull your starter motor out and connect it directly to a battery, the gear should throw out and spin rapidly since it doesn't have any resistance (Rapidly is an understatement), if it throws out and spins very slowly then fiddle with the solenoid, its most likely having emotional trouble.
Even a virtually flat battery should have the guts to spin a resistless starter rapidly.
Alternatively just test it on a battery you know isn't dead
Could just be a loose/worn connection in the solenoid.
Goodluck
Edited by Loki, 30 May 2006 - 06:49 PM.
#8
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 07:12 PM
batts ok.my volts r bout 12-13 with ignition on.
on frid it was slow turing over and started..and on sat tryed for 10 secs and sounded bit off and didnt start..and yeah no go now
on frid it was slow turing over and started..and on sat tryed for 10 secs and sounded bit off and didnt start..and yeah no go now
#9
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 07:38 PM
I'm tipping battery. Can you jump start it?
#10
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 08:53 PM
get someone to check the voltage while you try and crank it.
If it drops below 8-9 Volts the battery is stuffed.
Just because it shows 12V 'idle' doesn't mean that its OK
If it drops below 8-9 Volts the battery is stuffed.
Just because it shows 12V 'idle' doesn't mean that its OK
#11
_jimjet61_
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Posted 30 May 2006 - 09:12 PM
I'd say starter motor, the new exhaust system you said you had fitted does that include extractors and how close is it to the starter motor or starter motor wires, may have cooked them especially if you were playing around with the timing as that will change exhaust exit temps. Check how much voltage you have at the starter motor terminal or try putting a jumper lead straight onto the starter terminal. Good Luck Jim
#12
_Oldn64_
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 02:01 AM
OK tap the starter with a hammer then try starting the car if it starts quicker then highly possible that solenoid is bad.
I would measure the battery cell by cell, this will tell you if you have a dead cell, dead cell replace battery. Can you turn the motor over by hand (and I mean at least 4 times...) Does it feel funny. How advanced did you go? can you statically time it so you know that it is at least got a chance of running. then retime.
Cheers
I would measure the battery cell by cell, this will tell you if you have a dead cell, dead cell replace battery. Can you turn the motor over by hand (and I mean at least 4 times...) Does it feel funny. How advanced did you go? can you statically time it so you know that it is at least got a chance of running. then retime.
Cheers
#13
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 03:17 PM
hey guys.fitted the battery out of the torana and exact same problem..
so starter it is????.found reco 1s for $110 with a warranty.if the extractor is really close to the starter,would that cause it to die?i know the wires are fine and havent melted,but its a tight fit and the extractors gos just above the starter
so starter it is????.found reco 1s for $110 with a warranty.if the extractor is really close to the starter,would that cause it to die?i know the wires are fine and havent melted,but its a tight fit and the extractors gos just above the starter
#14
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 04:38 PM
wat u mean tap the solenoid to see if it starts quicker tim??doesnt start at all.just turn the key and u hear click and nothing happens...and ive tryed few batterys all that were fine and was still the same.
#15
_Yella SLuR_
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 04:59 PM
Could be solenoid. Gets heat affected by the extractors. I'm advised, but yet to try a VS reduction starter, apparently the solenoid is in different location, further away from the exractors.
#16
_J&S Racing_
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 06:33 PM
I fitted a VS starter motor and the solonoid sits well away from the extractors as it's on a different angle, the starter motor is physicaly smaller than the std one which helps again.
If you are just getting the click noise from the starter motor and have tried out some good battery's i think it's fair to say that the contacts in the solonoid cap are not connecting properly anymore and therefore can not supply enough grunt for the starter motor to turn, they are easy enough to take off and check/replace. The other thing it could be is the connection of the battery cable that goes to the solonoid cap.
If you are just getting the click noise from the starter motor and have tried out some good battery's i think it's fair to say that the contacts in the solonoid cap are not connecting properly anymore and therefore can not supply enough grunt for the starter motor to turn, they are easy enough to take off and check/replace. The other thing it could be is the connection of the battery cable that goes to the solonoid cap.
#17
_Oldn64_
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 11:24 PM
Ok, couple of this... Pat and J&S, he is runnign a 351 FRAUD motor, so if he actually got the VS starter in there then the only good bit would be the starter.
Hitting the starter with a hammer may jolt the solenoid pins out a littel more and thus enable contact on next fire. Try giving the starter a gental tap. Then try starting it.
Cheers
PS: If it does start then you are safe with teh fact that it is a starter related thing. How long has teh torana battery been sitting and please tell me that it has nto sat on teh garage floor....
Hitting the starter with a hammer may jolt the solenoid pins out a littel more and thus enable contact on next fire. Try giving the starter a gental tap. Then try starting it.
Cheers
PS: If it does start then you are safe with teh fact that it is a starter related thing. How long has teh torana battery been sitting and please tell me that it has nto sat on teh garage floor....
#18
_TORANASS_
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Posted 31 May 2006 - 11:52 PM
Simple way to tell is put a volt meter on the battery then crank it, if you get substantual voltage drop its definetly not your leeds.
A few things to try without checkin too hard is the earth lead..And make sure your purple wire that connects to the solonoid for crank has a steady 12V suply..
John
A few things to try without checkin too hard is the earth lead..And make sure your purple wire that connects to the solonoid for crank has a steady 12V suply..
John
#19
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 12:57 AM
took torana battery out and straight into my car
#20
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 01:17 AM
This coming from someone who raves about Hillman's and Galants...Ok, couple of this... Pat and J&S, he is runnign a 351 FRAUD motor, so if he actually got the VS starter in there then the only good bit would be the starter...
#21
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 01:47 PM
hey guys.fitted another starter that i got off a mate.he said deff works.i fitted it and tryed to start it and the car turns over but very slowly then kinda stops.and my autometer gauges goes from 12 to 8(lowest reading on gauge) as it is turning..
whats wrong??
whats wrong??
#22
_Loki_
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 01:49 PM
Battery is fubar?
Try jump starting or a battery that is definately in good working order.
If jump starting/good battery doesn't work, gotta be a connection/lead.
Try jump starting or a battery that is definately in good working order.
If jump starting/good battery doesn't work, gotta be a connection/lead.
Edited by Loki, 01 June 2006 - 01:50 PM.
#23
Guns n roses
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 04:13 PM
ok i put in another battery which is fairly new....and ..........the car started.
so,my current battery is under warranty so going to see the guy tomorrow.but my question is,did the starter motor and battery both shit themselfs at the same time?because with my old starter motor yesterday,the car woudnt turn over with my battery or the battery out of my old torana.changed starter and wouldnt turn over with my batt.but new batt and this other starter all is ok..whats going on?
so,my current battery is under warranty so going to see the guy tomorrow.but my question is,did the starter motor and battery both shit themselfs at the same time?because with my old starter motor yesterday,the car woudnt turn over with my battery or the battery out of my old torana.changed starter and wouldnt turn over with my batt.but new batt and this other starter all is ok..whats going on?
#24
rodomo
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 06:06 PM
Possible that if your old starter was "polling" (internal short) the high rate of discharge may have flattened both batteries.
#25
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Posted 01 June 2006 - 07:08 PM
Clevo's are notorious for melting starter motors... I know that I've done three myself. Trying to crank an engine with a battery that's nearly flat can cause the starter to overheat and damage the windings as well.
Does your car have a solenoid on the starter itself or is it the earlier 'rat trap' style starter with an external solenoid mounted near the battery? The latter are prone to causing excessive voltage drop and starting problems.
Does your car have a solenoid on the starter itself or is it the earlier 'rat trap' style starter with an external solenoid mounted near the battery? The latter are prone to causing excessive voltage drop and starting problems.
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