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Difference between LC and LJ

Started by _Shaune_ , Dec 14 2012 12:25 PM

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73 replies to this topic

#51 _les96_

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Posted 28 December 2012 - 03:39 PM

Great Info, the plot thickens

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#52 _toranatime_

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 10:28 AM

and the answer to the fellar that have lj guards on there cars and want them to be lc get a oxy a dolly hammer and a drill and go to work not to hard, just becareful how much heat you apply.

cheers gong

Thanks for the help Gong. Would it be possible to get a bit more information on doing this? I want to make sure i get it right haha. Do you have and special tips or tricks? How hot would you get the area, cherry red, or just warm? I believe the panel will want to bulge out in an area when i start to hammer the folded edge, is there a way i can stop this happening? Do you have any tips about hammer and dolly selection/placement for this particular job?

Sorry for all the questions i just want to make sure i get it right the first time.
Cheers Toranatime

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#53 S pack

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 12:25 PM

I believe the panel will want to bulge out in an area when i start to hammer the folded edge, is there a way i can stop this happening?

Yes, heat it til it's red hot and shrink or stretch the metal (whichever is appropriate) with the hammer and dolly before the metal cools again.
Best thing is to make a stand to hold your oxy tourch while it's lit and your not using it. Otherwise you'll go nuts lighting it a hundred times in half an hour.

Not a lot of room inside the nose of the guard (fitted to car) so you'll probably need a heel dolly and the comma shaped dolly.
And wear a leather glove if holding the dolly against hot metal.

Edited by S pack, 29 December 2012 - 12:30 PM.

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#54 enderwigginau

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 03:46 PM

Gong - DG is indeed a very rare colour.

This pic makes it No. 3 in this colour that I am aware of - mine, Qld Torry Club and now this one.

ta Dave

I've seen a few.
Cameo Gold is much rarer.

Steering columns are different, obviously the LJ has access for the ignition, bu hey also mount different under the dash.

Grant..

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#55 _toranatime_

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 04:19 PM

Yes, heat it til it's red hot and shrink or stretch the metal (whichever is appropriate) with the hammer and dolly before the metal cools again.
Best thing is to make a stand to hold your oxy tourch while it's lit and your not using it. Otherwise you'll go nuts lighting it a hundred times in half an hour.

Not a lot of room inside the nose of the guard (fitted to car) so you'll probably need a heel dolly and the comma shaped dolly.
And wear a leather glove if holding the dolly against hot metal.

Thanks mate, i've just finished shaping the guard and it worked very well. I guess i was stressing over nothing, but i just really didn't want to warp nice new straight guards that i spent hours fitting up to get neat panel gaps haha. I'm happy to report the guards are still straight as. There are people on here that really know there stuff and i can't thank you all enough.

Cheers Toranatime

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#56 Bullet

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 04:36 PM

Thanks mate, i've just finished shaping the guard and it worked very well. I guess i was stressing over nothing, but i just really didn't want to warp nice new straight guards that i spent hours fitting up to get neat panel gaps haha. I'm happy to report the guards are still straight as. There are people on here that really know there stuff and i can't thank you all enough.

Cheers Toranatime

Well done toranatime, could ya take some picks of your handy work, I need to do this to my LC!

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#57 _toranatime_

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 06:56 PM

yeah no worries i'm just uploading the pictures onto photobucket now, it may take a while to load though haha

Cheers

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#58 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 09:27 PM

well done kieran, pics would be good like always, cheers dave nice reply there bud, another man whom knows his stuff, and just think MIKE73 called you another book reader,, haheha

cheers gong

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#59 _toranatime_

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 10:18 PM

Here we go, this is my first attempt at uploading pictures. Hope they work haha

Cheers

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#60 S pack

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 10:52 PM

Not bad for a first attempt Kieran. Now all you have to do is extend the section of the guard at the crease line to close up the gap that you can see in the middle of the bezel.

You can do this by heating it up and carefully picking it out from inside the guard with the picking hammer and finish it off with some filler or just build it up with filler but I'm not a fan of using heaps of bog.
Posted Image

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#61 S pack

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Posted 29 December 2012 - 11:04 PM

well done kieran, pics would be good like always, cheers dave nice reply there bud, another man whom knows his stuff, and just think MIKE73 called you another book reader,, haheha

cheers gong

Yeah John, he's right, I am a book reader, one that has done his time repairing/maintaining/restoring a few Holdens and enjoys the pleasure of driving his LJ.
Something Mike will never get around to doing cause he spends too much time researching XU-1's instead of restoring one.

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#62 _LONA-CK_

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 08:36 AM

to right there dave. talking about mike73 he as being pretty quite, to quite really it must be xmas

now back to your guards mate, where dave just pointed out to you, the best way i worked it out was to tig build up this as its easy to control your feed and your heat.
they look great so far top job.

cheers gong

Edited by LONA-CK, 30 December 2012 - 08:38 AM.

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#63 _toranatime_

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Posted 30 December 2012 - 09:18 AM

Thanks fellas it means alot. Building that surface up with the tig is a great idea, i'll do that today and get them finished off

Cheers

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#64 Bullet

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Posted 08 January 2013 - 09:22 AM

Thanks fellas it means alot. Building that surface up with the tig is a great idea, i'll do that today and get them finished off

Cheers

Hey Kieran, did you get this done, how'd it come up??? Pics please!

Cheers Bullet

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#65 _toranatime_

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Posted 06 February 2013 - 07:12 PM

Sorry mate i forgot about this thread, and yes i have finished it. Whe i get round to it i'll put some pictures up.

Cheers

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#66 LC_Granny

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Posted 14 May 2022 - 01:38 PM

Can you put an engine from an LJ straight into an LC, eg a 1972 LJ 4cy into a 1970 LC 4cy. If not what do you need to do?

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#67 S pack

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Posted 14 May 2022 - 02:57 PM

Basically the same car so will fit no problems if you have all the correct bits n pieces to complete the installation. What are you replacing and with what?

Edited by S pack, 14 May 2022 - 02:58 PM.

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#68 Beddy

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Posted 18 May 2022 - 12:21 AM

When did they start using the trap door sump in all model's? My 73 4 door s came with it and the colour tail shaft everyone calls xu1.

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#69 claysummers

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Posted 18 May 2022 - 07:57 AM

EH had baffled trapdoor setup.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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#70 MFM

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Posted 18 May 2022 - 05:07 PM

When did they start using the trap door sump in all model's? My 73 4 door s came with it and the colour tail shaft everyone calls xu1.

I think your question regarding the baffled sump infers that all baffled (trapdoor) sumps were the same as XU1. My understanding is that the baffled sump in the XU1 was unique to the XU1 in that the baffle was braised whereas other types did not have this feature.

Edited by MFM, 18 May 2022 - 05:08 PM.

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#71 73SUNBURSTEXYOUWON

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Posted 18 May 2022 - 05:59 PM

When did they start using the trap door sump in all model's? My 73 4 door s came with it and the colour tail shaft everyone calls xu1.

I think your question regarding the baffled sump infers that all baffled (trapdoor) sumps were the same as XU1. My understanding is that the baffled sump in the XU1 was unique to the XU1 in that the baffle was braised whereas other types did not have this feature.

As Clay mentioned above Sump Baffle hinged has been around at EH, as in attached image.

I believe the XU1 sump had extra braising applied to the baffle spot welds for extra strengthening, sothey wouldnt let go.