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#326 stevemc32

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Posted 23 April 2024 - 07:25 PM

Made up a piece to replace the rear end of the sill and I guess I didn't quite get it spot on or it distorted with a bit too much heat.  It all went together fine with the clamps but after I'd completed welding it in I had to split it down the centre so I could get it to fit up properly again.  Tacked on the sill ready for a super slow day of welding it up tomorrow trying to avoid shrinking it...

 

It's slow going, took all of six and a half hours to get that piece made up and have the sill tacked on.

 

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#327 claysummers

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Posted 23 April 2024 - 07:45 PM

I can relate. You just keep working it until you are satisfied with it. I love rust work. Though the progress is slow it is somehow worth it, knowing you have made it good again.


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#328 yel327

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 08:15 AM

You both are gluttons for punishment! I'm glad I have collected most rust repairs sections I need for my remaining Monaros as either NOS panels or good used stuff. So I don't have to reply on fabrication or bad fitting aftermarket stuff! I just have to get good at spot weld removal and cut alignment again so I can tack-tig any joints and get a professional to finish them.

 

I bought one of these after seeing an amateur using it. Awesome tool for things like removal of an entire Monaro quarter panel:

 

Spot Annihilator Deluxe Kit (dentfix.com)



#329 claysummers

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 10:47 AM

Not cheap.

Rust repair I enjoy. Bodywork not so much, but both satisfying when realised, of course.

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#330 yel327

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 05:42 PM

Not cheap, but neither are Monaro quarters and bodies. So I figure best do it right.

#331 claysummers

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Posted 24 April 2024 - 06:47 PM

It sounds a lot cheaper when you say Monaro in the same sentence.

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#332 stevemc32

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Posted 25 April 2024 - 05:40 PM

I don't mind doing the rust repairs it's just disheartening that it takes so long and is still so far away from driving.  Pretty certain it'll be very minimal bodywork for me just to get it on the road.  That spot weld drill looks real nice and I reckon buying new tools is another hobby of mine but I'll hold off just for now and see how I go with the normal drill.  Most of the spot welds I've removed so far have been pretty easy or on panels that didn't need re-using.

 

On a brighter note, I'm calling this passenger side sill and A-pillar roadworthy and I'm not going to listen to anyone telling me otherwise!!

 

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Started on the passenger floor and managed to get all of the old repair cut out.  It seemed a little dodgy with three cuts straight through the top of the chassis rail that weren't even welded back up before the replacement floor was put in.  The rail looks pretty good but I'm not real confident on the firewall support at the front of the footwell.  I need to replace the section on top of it but I don't want to look inside...

 

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#333 claysummers

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Posted 25 April 2024 - 06:34 PM

That's it. Keep going. The only alternative is buy someone else's hard work, if you trust them. Most survivor cars will have dodgy repairs from the early days. Repairs have always been masters of subterfuge.

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#334 4dabush

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Posted 25 April 2024 - 07:54 PM

Hi Steve, you might find if you can unpick the welds on the transmission tunnel to the floor, and then spot weld the new floor into the trans tunnel then you can fully weld the new floor to the trans tunnel on the inside. Then once it’s done, from  underneath you’ll be hard pressed to even see the repair, it should look like the factory double skin, with the trans tunnel edge still cleanly exposed. 
good luck, 
adam 



#335 Bruiser

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Posted 26 April 2024 - 01:22 AM

Good on you
If you’re happy how it turns out, that’s all that matters
Slightly less than perfect welds, a bit of bog,
It’s plenty better than it was when you found it
You’ve given it a new lease on life anyway
Well done to you
You’ll be well pleased soon when it’s back on the road

#336 Bruiser

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Posted 26 April 2024 - 09:36 AM

Didn’t mean that to look patronising, poorly chosen words too late at night after too many frothies
I meant to say I admire you having a go at something as tricky as those repairs yourself.
Looks like you are pretty good at it, actually

#337 Rockoz

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Posted 26 April 2024 - 10:57 AM

Ive used a couple of different spot weld drills on my project.

Basically just slip in the drill and go.

I tried the mini holesaw types. They were okay and you get an alignment hole with it for fitting up the replacement part.

But, they tend to catch on irregular surfaces and break.

The ones that have a flat end with a little point last longest, and are what I have decided to use for now.

Centre punching the welds helps a bit for most spots.

Lots less drama overall than trying to use normal bits.

After a couple welds you get to work out when you are through the spot.

 

Cheers

 

Rob



#338 stevemc32

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Posted 26 April 2024 - 07:17 PM

Cheers fellas! 

 

No offence taken Bruce, I can handle a bit of truth on how it's looking!!

 

Not sure I'll go that high on the trans tunnel with the repair Adam.  It's a good idea to hide the repair but I think I'd rather keep any intact original metal.  The welds will just get covered in stone guard anyway since I'm certainly not building a show car.

 

Rob, the flat end spot drill with the little point is the one I'm using.  I've already destroyed one but I think I was running it a bit fast.  Haven't tried centre punching yet so will give that a go next time, I had noticed the drill likes to wander around a bit.



#339 Cook

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Posted 27 April 2024 - 08:56 AM

Hi Steve. Doing well with the resto, just don't get too disheartened.  I know it might seem like going backwards when removing rusty metal but it is progress every minute you work on it.  Your doing well only going through one spotweld bit.  I'm currently restoring a Camaro and chewed through a number of them. I have found that a pilot drill hole in the centre (not necessarily all the way through) can help to locate the bit and stop it running around too much.  Keep up the good work.  Cheers Ron



#340 4dabush

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Posted 27 April 2024 - 07:47 PM

For the spot welds, as others said, a pilot or center punch helps stop them wandering, and I used a bit of WD40 on the surface and drill bit, seemed to help break less and reduced the wander.  I reckon I used about 6-8 bits all up. Used the mini holesaw type with the spring loaded locating pin. I got along with them better that the flat drill.

 

Just have a look at your trans tunnel before you say no, you might find what I suggest means you have way less welds to grind and clean up. Might save you a bit of time overall. 


Edited by 4dabush, 27 April 2024 - 07:47 PM.





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