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Heath's Hatch


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#651 _Lightyear_

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 09:15 PM

Can't see an MX5 doing over my Hatch"............. Just say'n


If you can beat me in my road MX5, your doing very well. What are your lap times? I just did a 1:32 at Winton.

#652 76lxhatch

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 09:48 PM

I prefer not to discuss other peoples package in too much detail ;)

Gotta watch what you say around here!



#653 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 05 May 2016 - 11:03 PM

I'd love to do a lap of Winton.
My thing handles feels solid and corners really well but being auto it's unfortunately not suited to circuits.

When I eventually do my hatch I'll set that up for circuits.

Damn we've hijacked piss outta this thread. Sorry Heath.

#654 Heath

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 10:13 AM

Considering that Dave's 'road car' MX-5 makes my 911 look like it's standing still and I don't even know if my hatch will be able to beat my 911, I think some of the comments here are a little off the mark haha.

 

Yeah let's get back on track. I've returned from overseas and am back into the tinkering on the hatch. Yay


Edited by Heath, 06 May 2016 - 10:14 AM.


#655 cameron

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Posted 06 May 2016 - 02:00 PM

I know the specs sheets say the variations on models are.

Sedan
Kerb weight: 1143 - 1183 kg (2520 - 2609 lb)

Hatch
Kerb weight: 1170 - 1209 kg (2580 - 2666 lb)

 

But I cant see that as being accurate because unmodified ones I have seen weighed much more. I am talking about cars with no mods inc the std 13" tyres no stereo etc and these all came in at 1300-1340kg with about 10litres of fuel and no spare or tookit etc. The hatchbacks being around 40kgs heavier.. Be interested to hear other peoples experience. Did holden weigh them with no interior, motor or some strange method to get them to down to 1100-1200kg. The v8 with 4 speed (inc flywheel clutch etc) complete is at least 310kg.

 

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#656 _8banga_

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 06:49 AM

I have been told that when they are weighed for kerb weight the manucturers weighed the cars with no fluids in the car i.e no oil, radiator fluid and no fuel someone else on here can confirm this

#657 cameron

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Posted 12 May 2016 - 06:23 PM

Yes that's what I thought.

 

As per holden the v8 manual fluid capacities are

 

Engine: 4.8 litres

Man Trans: 2 litres

Steering Rack: 0.189 litres

Diff: 1.4 litres

Cooling system: 11 litres

Brake System: ??? 1 - 1.5 litres?

 

Say 21 litres of fluid.

So conservative without being 100% accurate by weighing each fluid its 21kgs + say 10-15kgs of fuel I had in the tank. Still got an additional 95kgs from the 1340kgs that we digital car scaled a perfectly standard SS 4.2litre manual hatchback which is a long way off holdens dry 1209kg.

 

Perhaps they weighed it without battery but as per the manual the Lucas Exide 7 plate was only 15kgs. No doubt I am missing something but everything was very standard right down to the tiny exhaust pipes. If it was only 20-40kgs you could understand that variation.

 

Cameron


Edited by cameron, 12 May 2016 - 06:24 PM.


#658 Heath

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 10:18 PM

When I took my old Torana on a weigh bridge it was nowhere near that high, but I just do not know the accuracy of those weigh bridges

 

I don't have any figures I'm aiming for; just trying to be conservative with what's in the car and the result will be measured when the car is finished. It won't have a perfect Bill Of Materials.

 

Gave my Dellows crossmember a hit with glass in my friend's blasting cabinet, came up very nicely.

L3t2E0l.jpg

zHGezRP.jpg

 

Set up my LED work light to shine across the edge of part of the work bench so that I could mark up a straight line over a curved surface to continue building my diff hat.

jEhRKDH.jpg

 

That allowed me to start making all of the sheet metal bits to hold the mount together

IXrUu7V.jpg

 

Good idea to put a fill point in before I start crowding the area with all of the other bits.

a1nvfx7.jpg

WzgSM3E.jpg

 

My machinist mate turned up a taper (for the balljoint pin) in a bit of 4140 bar stock, and I just turned off the extra material where it wasn't needed and made it a 'fit' in some rollcage tubing that will act as a counter-bore for the balljoint nut.

3XRAu9O.jpg

 

Didn't get the taper position spot on, so had to turn up (and then weld on) the spacer on my taper tube.

nilfLSA.jpg

 

8DH1gE9.jpg

FLwVS6n.jpg

EkdkimU.jpg

 

QyY2l7D.jpg

 

The way the brace sits across the middle of the diff hat means that I need to have a fill point and a 'bleed' point (I'll leave this bolt out and fill through the top port until it comes out this port, stick the plug in, add additional if necessary and then cap the top one up too)

aH6L9Oe.jpg

 

Upside-down, but taking shape...

2Xxak4e.jpg



#659 rodomo

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 10:42 PM

Looks like my bench? Shit everywhere! :spoton:



#660 bullitA9X

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Posted 15 May 2016 - 10:56 PM

Loving your metal fab work heath wish i had your skills in this department mate...

#661 _Lightyear_

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 06:51 AM

Did you ever consider going irs? I did think that since my floor is missing on my other hatch, I could weld in a late model commodore floor, and bolt the IRS in. What your doing is looking good btw.



#662 Heath

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 08:11 AM

Yeah I certainly did consider going IRS although I would have used S14 rather than Commodore, in fact I was in Shepparton on Saturday checking out Glen's LX 'GTR' hatchback with all the Nissan (R33 rear) suspension in it too. I have reasons for and against both and for straight performance, what I'm doing probably is inferior (also the IRS swap would have been easier & cheaper). But I decided this way and can list some reasons to justify it to keep myself happy lol.



#663 Bullet

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 10:59 AM

Nice work Heath, looking top notch!

#664 _Lightyear_

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Posted 16 May 2016 - 11:10 AM

After looking at the commodore IRS, I think your right. More of a trailing arm design. I like the double A arm like the MX5.
RX8 would be a good option for an LX. Nissan is a good start, there are plenty of aftermarket bits easily bought. The S13 chassis under a hatch would be good with the standard LS2 and T56 option.
But carry on with yours, I look forward to seeing how it all works. I am seriously considering moulding my roof and quarters when the car is painted. Then I can start with a different chassis. And build a real quick hatchback.

#665 Heath

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Posted 20 May 2016 - 10:48 PM

Well I had a rude awakening when I realised (I had noticed previously but wasn't thinking much of it) that the boot floor in a UC is a long way from flat, it actually tapers up around the fuel filler neck 40-50mm which is no good for matching up to a straight beam across the boot floor lol

 

The only real way to fix it was to make a new one in that area. Cut it out and got started on the underside. 

J8ohSYv.jpg

Hammered out the folded edge, slit it and bent it all onto the one plane:

zdlbwXT.jpg

Folded a new edge on and welded it together in the new position:

5PypV1R.jpg

 

Other side was basically the same but had a bit less material (and a few more ugly shapes) to work with:

RcjXSPx.jpg

Beaten flat:

r3V4oFL.jpg

Welded in the new position:

0fSVNSG.jpg

 

My mate works at a hot rod shop and gave me a hand putting some shape into a big bit of ~1mm sheet I bought:

2zVXA6R.jpg

RZ8p3B1.jpg

sTtFkhC.jpg

23lmd6B.jpg

vorly1i.jpg



#666 _Lightyear_

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Posted 21 May 2016 - 07:07 AM

Now you can make a flat under floor panel and rear diffuser. It's actually hard to work out what your doing from the pics. I need to drop off the flares one day and have a look. My build has stopped, I am waiting on the guy doing the panel work pulls his finger out.
That's the problem when you outsource work I guess.

#667 Heath

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 11:45 AM

I think turbo76lx's idea for tying the upper arm mounts to the lower arm mounts was a good one, so I decided to copy it. Sourced some 75x25x2.5mm RHS (nothing available thinner than that).

FmeMLfc.jpg

 

Used a CAD process (Cardboard Aided Design) to get the profile roughly right, and then just spent ages grinding away little bits until it fit really well, and cut a pie-shape out to roll the top around and tack it in the new position.

oegFUy8.jpg

q4Ymoyc.jpg

AlxEsTx.jpg

JH8xHqb.jpg

 

Started to mirror it.

zK0vyMr.jpg

 

Cut the end a bit short on the first one so extended that with an offcut.

ICDwJoh.jpg

 

3r4zaQS.jpg

 

1kg between them.

H7KJAw1.jpg

 

In position:

aQhpaKR.jpg

 

Zap Zap:

K4DQl8j.jpg

 

u5G3Eqt.jpg

 

All done:

zxBUXue.jpg



#668 _LS1 Hatch_

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 12:19 PM

That looks great ! 

 

I could have saved you a lot of fabrication time...and could have got a nice chrome one... :D

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#669 turbo76lx

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 01:30 PM

You should have asked Heath, I had the cutting templates for them in the shed.



#670 SHEEL

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 02:02 PM

lol.... DOH'



#671 Heath

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 02:46 PM

Ah well, I didn't need those extra hours of my life anyway :P



#672 IMORAL

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 10:03 PM

Far out Heath. You're a fr0cking machine!

#673 Heath

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Posted 31 May 2016 - 10:53 PM

Thanks Paul. My secret is just working for fuc king ages on every little part

 

Had to extend the curved shape for the filler down to the new floor height.

wli0Hgt.jpg

0UIKxAY.jpg

 

4fhTpBH.jpg

oCX86KU.jpg

Seems to have come up pretty well. The part just behind the diff is a fair bit more complicated... and gotta make a battery fit in there too.



#674 _LS1 Taxi_

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 08:26 AM

What Paul said!

 

Damn you must torch some MIG wire, gas and grinding discs!



#675 Heath

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Posted 01 June 2016 - 12:27 PM

The TIG gas is the killer. Only on 5L/min but still going through those little Total Tools bottles like they are going out of fashion.






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